If you don't want to take my word for it, simply push the plate closed with your fingers and see what happens.
Bill Robertson
#5939
If you don't want to take my word for it, simply push the plate closed with your fingers and see what happens.
Bill Robertson
#5939
I remember what happened the last time I did that...
That's pretty funny, but it wouldn't be "partially closed" nor prove anything, now would it?
But, since I don't have a hacked fuel system on my D, how about the next time we are at a meet we try it on your car? Now since you said never, I'd choose to do it after you shut your engine off, but while you hit the pedal once (per manufacturer starting instructions mind you), then step back and you start it back up.
Seriously, I just wanted to point out that it is not always the case, even with a perfectly tuned carb, and that it can be used as a diagnostic tool.
I have to admit messing with you is always fun, but you are making it too easy now.
Till next meet....
Oh grow up -- K-Jetters have had to tighten their throttle return springs too.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Curious isn't it: I was kicked out of Mike Lund's EFI thread (posts deleted), yet Martin is allowed to come into a thread clearly labeled "CARB" / "Carbed Car" and start slinging disparaging comments around....
I've done a few more carb conversions than Martin has -- chances are I know better than he does what works in these applications (especially Motorcraft specific conversions).
Bill Robertson
#5939
Just FYI, the fittings on the new fuel pump I bought are 3/8" NPT. Bill's carrier has 1/8" NPT fittings. I will seek adapters at the hardware store. This will make the pump sit a bit higher, so it will be necessary to lower the carrier inside the boot a little bit.
Farrar
I had a similar problem with the pump that I got- I needed a 1/8" NPT barrel adapter to put it in place of the one I took out. It's possible that Bill had installed one in the old one too, but it looked like the old pump had a male 1/8" NPT fitting on it vs. the new pump's female one.
Airtex E8012 has female 1/8 NPT threads on both ends.
This is the order of components that made your original fuel pump and carrier:
Attachment 3535
Bill Robertson
#5939
The reducing bushing works fine on the bottom. For the top, I simply used a straight barb and an elbow fitting:
Attachment 3543
Farrar
The Airtex unit had been making some strange noises the past few weeks. My guess is it was on its way out. Yesterday, 150 miles from home, it started going out intermittently. The car would stall and then start back up (sometimes). I managed to limp around for 15 minutes while I drove around Jackson, MS looking for a place with shade to do some work. I ended up in the ghetto and decided to limp to the entrance ramp to the interstate. Luckily it got that far and then the fuel pump stopped for good.
I honestly spent more time driving around looking for shade then it actually took me to do the work. Since I carry a spare fuel pump I just swapped it out and was back on the road again. After taking a lunch break, and stopping at Autozone to get a new spare (made in china part), I was on my way again.
I think I purchased my spare Airtex unit at Advance Auto. Unfortunately I don't have my receipt (this is why I prefer Autozone) so it might be difficult to get it replaced. I bought the Adance Auto pump less than a year ago, installed it in the car, and kept the original as spare. I'm going to go to the store I bought it from and see if they will honor the warranty without a receipt.
Even if I didn't have a spare fuel pump with me the day still wouldn't have been too bad. I could have stopped at any auto parts store and gotten a fuel pump capable of filling my carburetor bowl. If I had been depending on a K-Jet fuel system I would be stranded in Jackson until a vendor could overnight me a part.