Its always relieving knowing your car is safe and sound in the garage. :meditation:
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Finally finished up all my jobs from this week. Car is 100% back together and 100% functional again. There are now 0 rattles from the doors over bumps and rough pavement! Difference in overall A/C performance was negligible, but having the door vents working properly and blowing air on my face instead of inside the door is a big plus.
Took a spin down to Benicia and met some friends for breakfast. Days like today remind me why we moved to CA!
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...1&d=1336859948
Came home and let my wife drive her for the first time. Both she and the car made noises I've never heard before.
Gently and lovingly suggested she let me take over. Went to the hardware store and picked up some 1/2" PVC and compression fittings to make a door barricade (fits right over the striker pins) for an upcoming car show.
What kind of noises were being made Jon?
Went to Auto Parts Store twice. Got a 1/2 in ID copper washer the first time as a fix to the Reverse Light Switch problem. Got home and found out that it didn't fit over the switch. Went back and got a 5/8in ID copper washer instead. It fits over the switch okay. I also got a coil boot to replace the hard plastic elbow that is blocked up and keeping water in the evaporator box - and soaking the passenger side floor. Still got to fit everything on the car, but at least I ready.
Learning for today, measure the dang things before going to the parts store!
Installed my Luggage Rack
Attachment 10369
Attachment 10370
It only takes 30 seconds to detach it. Hardly an issue for engine access.
As for what I did to my D today, Returned home (375 mi) form A great Gathering at INDY. Also participated in the longest Caravan of Deloreans In US history (45) at the event. That was a sight to see.
Installed a backup hood release cable this afternoon. Much simpler than I expected the job to be. No more fear of being unable to fill my empty gas tank when 100 miles from home!
In trunk:
Attachment 10374
In footwell:
Attachment 10375
I also finished installing a new trunk release cable. It nice and secure now and should last a good long time.
I totally botched mine. I'll admit it. I bought the cable by the foot at Lowe's and I got what looked like a really nice diameter vinyl-sheathed cable, thinking the sheath would protect against rubbing and corrosion and all that good stuff. Got it home and the stuff is massive. Way thicker than I thought it was in the store. It's like twice as thick as the original cable including sheath. Whoops. Will have to try that one again. :)
Pezzo,
The lambda counter's sole purpose is to count to 30,000 miles. When it gets there, it means you should replace the O2 sensor. That's it. So if you remember via logbook, spreadsheet, calendar, etc when you've gone 30,000 miles, then you don't need it. Hence why people unplug the electrical connector or remove it and go with the one piece long speedo cable.
You mentioned adding something to the fuel. That alone would not cause the light to come on. Now on the other hand, if you were under the drivers footwell and bumped some loose wires, it's possible that set it off. If your speedo and odo don't work then the only way the lambda unit could still be counting is if your problem is between the top of the counter and the instrument cluster. Considering most people's problems are centered around the dust cap, angle drive and lower cable, I wouldn't count on this being the case.
My guess is you bumped a wire somewhere in the connection or maybe even the bulb itself.
Built a prop to hold the lower engine cover up at car shows ('tis the season...) instead of using the built in stand all the time. Just used some leftover 1/2" PVC that I wrapped in black duct tape and cut perpendicular notches in the end of. The cross braces on the underside of the cover slots perfectly into it, and the pipe rests on the air horn. Looks pretty good!
Tapped my W pip bolts out to 8mm. they werent stripped. its for a future mod. ( and because I cant find M7 bolts with Allen heads)
Tonight I installed the new windshield. This is one of the new UV and IR windshields.
Installing your own windshield isn't too difficult, you just need to be very careful and do all the proper steps.
- First, remove your old windshield, this is more difficult than installing the new one.
- Next, clean up the entire mounting area. Down to the bare fiberglass.
- Optionally, replace A-Pillar trim pieces or re-glue to A-pillar if damaged during windshield removal.
- Clean up body again.
- Set windshield on car for visual lineup and inspection.
- Jack roof to close gap in the top center between the doors.
- Remove windshield and clean both surfaces again.
- Apply 3M glass primer to both glass and car body.
- Apply 3M Windshield Urethane to car with triangular bead (or V-bead), this is important to reduce the chances of a trapped air bubble.
- Set windshield down perfectly the first time. Gently push down around all edges to push into the adhesive.
- Shut doors with windows open. Let sit for a day.
A few images...
Practice V-Bead...
Attachment 10403
Image showing gap in center of roof. The corners of the windshield were sitting on the car. Enlarge image to see circled area.
Attachment 10402
Final install done!
Attachment 10404
Adjusted the fuel/air mixture to stop rev-hunting. Seems like I've got it about right, as its idling fairly smoothly and consistently. I'll have to tweak a little more here and there and see if it drives properly.
Installed leds on door lights and side markers. They look great and run cooler.
Drove it to work without incident. On the way home I was trying to turn my radio down with the remote, and accidentally held down the 'up' button instead. The whole system just shut off. Checked all the fuses and nothing was wrong. Checked all the wiring, nothing wrong. Checked the fuse in the back of the head unit, it's fine. Start checking voltages and there isn't any?
Turns out there's an inline glass fuse behind the dashboard that was only rated at 5A from the factory. Might be OK for the Craig but not so much for a modern amplifier that accidentally gets cranked. Spent the evening fishing that stupid fuse out through the head unit hole and replaced it with a 10A fuse instead, since that's what's in the back of the head unit. No point creating a link that's intentionally too weak, right?
got it to idle, see here-
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?39...hlight=thermal
Ever since I got it, the idle was never right. As soon as it warned up, it would idle up a bit and have a light misfire at idle. I fixed some vacuum leaks - mainly at the back of the climate control, and at the charcoal canister, and that made the idle even worse... After fixing the connection to the vacuum solenoid (see thread) it idles perfectly now!
I am very happy I (so far) have not had to go into the "VOD" - I was thinking this was about to be the time it was going to happen.
Took my steering rack down the the auto shop and scrubbed all the grease and dirt off it. Then installed new boots and tie rod ends. Also cleaned the two air shields the cover the trail arms.
I just drive it, for the past week. Everything runs perfect, I think she would be a great daily driver.
Still checking out that mirror switch/defrost switch blowing when I put the key in.
And also I will check out why the idle doesnt pick-up until it has run for a minute or 2.
But she runs great !!!! Already 2 full tank of gas since the first time I took it out from winter !
New plates arrive in the mail today. The MN plate came off, CA one went on. In MN I was able to get vanity historic/collector plates, here you get what you get.
Attachment 10455
Installed a properly sized alternator belt
It was super easy, just filled out the form. The requirement is that the car needs to be 25 years old or more and "be of historical significance." My application was sent to the office in Sacramento for review so someone could make a judgement call about a DeLorean being historically significant. I've read on other forums for other old cars that these can be hard to get if you end up talking to the wrong guy on the wrong day.
The restriction is that I am only allowed to drive it to car shows and for club events. Since I only drive on weekends, and most of what I use the car for are club events I didn't see it as a problem. Also, it depends on how you define "car show" or "club event", could be pretty broad. Of course at the end of the day it is the cop that pulls you over that decides that.
Minnesota collector plates are still better. :cool:
I'm currently working on cleaning up and painting the 3 windshield trim pieces.
Ahem... UV AND IR. Anyone can now get a UV tinted windshield, as all of DMC's new repro's have a UV tint. For double the cost, add IR to that. I hope to also get the highest quality UV/IR window tint applied to the side windows before leaving for Orlando, and along with the cooled seats (which I will finally continue working on this weekend) I gonna be a damn cold cat driving to DCS.
Asked for tips on destroying a broken tap on a tinker's/machinist's board, and got insane, futile, despairing laughter in response.
Began to despair of ever getting Christine on the road again.
got my $300 of parts today, my car really needs a bath too.
http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c3...c/IMG_0348.jpg
-New trailing arm bolts installed (old ones were in fine condition, oh well)
-Front-end recall kit installed
-New fuel filter installed
-Fuel mixture re-adjusted (again)
-Cleaned and waxed accessible areas on the underbody while it was on the hoist
Took it for a drive. Had some yahoo on the highway yelling BTTF references through his window while taking a video with his phone (the passenger, not driver). He was giving thumbs up and I think he was just very excited to see a DeLorean. I pretended I couldn't hear him and just gave him a thumbs up. They then followed me for a little while.
Made a 550 mile emergency parts run to DMC California. Damn 30 year old plastic radiators.....