You own a PT Cruiser and DeLorean? Me too! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
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You own a PT Cruiser and DeLorean? Me too! :DQuote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
And me!Quote:
Originally Posted by Renee_1632
One could argue that you have a soft-spot for unreliable vehicles :tongue2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Renee_1632
Diesel version with Mercedes engine, 100% reliable so far.
I am after a 300C within months, again diesel Mercedes.
Yup, and my PT is turbocharged -- wrong vehicle, I know. :PQuote:
Originally Posted by Renee_1632
Farrar
Because the last page has been....:offtopic2:
Sorry guys, it's just what I love to do now when threads start digressing. Nothing personal =P.
On another note, I refilled my A/C system with my ES-12 refrigerant and got the car down to nearly 39 degrees in the cockpit.
One of the pins on my black bulkhead connector kept pushing in when trying to put the bulkhead connector female end back on the male pins. Took the backwall off, moved that rats nest of wiring all around, found the wire that was connected to the pin that kept moving back, pushed on it with a flat head screwdriver, and Jessica installed the black bulkhead connector into place. With the flathead screwdriver in place, the pin could not move back, and now all the pins make proper contact.
Symptoms of the above anomaly: no brake lights, but pushing my brake pedal turned on BOTH my green turn signal indicator lights as well as made my green turn signal indicator lights behave as hazard lights when trying to signal a right or a left turn. Also, the 6.1A it takes to power all the brake lights was possibly being rerouted through fuse #4, which conveniently happens to be the fuse for - you guessed it - hazard lights and turn signal indicator circuit. So 6.1A was traveling through fuse #4, which nearly melted the fuse box connection for that fuse.
Installed John Hervey's aftermarket stainless steel brake lines. Man, he doesn't just send new lines; he sends new lines with new nuts and connecting hardware. For $118, what an upgrade from 30 year old rubber brake lines. GREAT product - I'll try to review this later in the "Product Reviews" section.
Fixed the driver's seat back trimming and passenger side as well. Re-aligned the wiper positions. Siliconed the front bushes. Fixed the passenger door hinge (was about to pop out!). And slammed my finger with the hood against the wiper arm..... OUCH!
What have I done to my DeLorean today? I caught my brakes on fire.:flamed:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Freaky Beetle
Rsiking going :offtopic2:, I'm curious - how did THAT happen?
A sticking piston on the rear wore the pad down to the metal. No damage, I just need a brake overhaul. Of course I apparently needed one before they caught fire....:banghead:Quote:
Originally Posted by DeLorean03
I was up till 1am last night trying to figure out why my fuel pump is not getting power... going to spend more time on Wed and Friday. The goal is to have mine running again by the end of Aug
Replaced my evaporator core. Reinstalled the entire passenger side interior. Repaired the fiberglass on the engine cover stay. Painted the engine cover grills.
Installed SMD LED's in the tail lights. WELL worth the money.
i over the weekend siphoned 8 gallons of 22 year old fuel out of mine and scrubbed the tank out clean. waiting for m fuel pump kit to come so i can install it. excited
Finally fied the cargo netting. Earlier in the year the main ribbon around the edges had frayed and broken but the netting itself looked new, so I really didn't want to just throw it out and buy a new one. Especially not for $50.
So I journeyed over to the local Army Surplus Store and sure enough they had the same nylon? rope only slightly larger than stock for $0.07 a foot. I bought extra and paid $0.53. Then I ventured over to the local hardware store for some hog rings spending less than $1.50 for this.
It took me about 1/2 an hour to lace the rope around the outside of the netting and reinstall it on the S-hooks in the caro area. Looks brand new, works great and cost less than $2.00...
Then I went for a nice long drive!
Dan
Pictures of the results please :biggrin: and the Bulb's for reference.Quote:
Originally Posted by DeLorean03
Here is the trunk with a HOT incand bulb:Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...8&d=1311048842
And here is a 18 SMD LED bulb:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...6&d=1311048842
And here is the engine bay bulb with an old LED with 6 bulbs:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...5&d=1311048842
And here is the engine bay with the new 18 SMD LED:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...7&d=1311048842
Obviously, it's not a "awe-inspiring change", but to keep the load light on the electrical system of the car, I think it suites its purpose well. And remember, the heat generated from these LEDs are sometimes almost 10x LESS than regular incad bulbs, as visible in Ozzie's blog here:
http://delorean2109.blogspot.com/200...-are-cool.html
I have them in the brake lights as well, and THAT is where the difference will be very impressive. I'll get those pictures up soon.
As for reference, here is where I got my SMD LEDs from:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...K%3AMEWNX%3AIT
Painted lower engine cover, re-installed newly painted grills with new foam and new retainer strips. Also replaced the latch hook on the engine cover.
Wired in a replacement turn signal flasher plug/receptacle to replace the cracked original that was no longer being supported up to the left of the steering column under the dash.
One of the female blade fittings in the original receptacle was bare because of cracking-deterioration. After installing the flasher relay into the new receptacle I secured it to the vertical knee bolster bracket to the left of the steering wheel. Made sure there could be no electrical contact to the bracket.
It is now as safely wired as it was 30 years ago and it is easier to hear it when it's flashing because it's not floating in mid-air back up in there. Well worth the hour and the negligible cost of parts.
Fixed both window regulators last month.
Tinted all the windows this month.
Got my new throttle sheild :)
Today: Painted and re-installed my lower engine cover. Re-glued my door headliners. Installed new A/C Accumulator, Replaced A/C low pressure line, condenser/evaporator cross over line, and low pressure switch.
If we're mentioning things that were recently done as well, on the 4th of July weekend I replaced my crumple zone. Talk about a big job. Glad that one's over.
DIY door lock actuators and launchers. Sanded down and painted relay compartment metal bracket that holds everything.
Replaced my 30yr old stock radiator fans with DMC-Midwest's high performance fans. Re-riveted the condenser/radiator brackets. Fiberglass repaired a crack in the louvres (still need to sand/blend and paint). Replaced windshield washer pump.
Put a desiccant pack inside to suck out some moisture.
Hope.
Farrar
Fixed a tiny problem I just could NOT figure out for the longest time.
On mountain twisties and only when going uphill and taking a left-hand sweeper I occasionally would get windshield washer fluid bleeding slowly out of the w.washer nozzle onto the windshield. I seldom if ever use the wipers, much less the washer pump. The flow rate was maybe a spoonful in a few minutes. It always stopped later. I knew it could not be the pump activating.
I took the cap off the washer reservoir, looked on the inside, found that the vent hole in the center of the cap gasket was solidly mudded over after 30 years with maybe a little bit of rust bloom from the interior of the cap. Cleared the gasket vent with a small tool, put everything back together and now - no more dribbles.
Apparently the reservoir would heat enough with hot radiator air to "pump" a little juice up the line in certain circumstances since the vent was blocked. The blockage was not evident from outside since the cap's vent hole was clear. Photo of the gasket, now with clean center vent, below.
Attachment 2893
2 minutes to fix something that's been only very occasionally been bugging me for >5 years.
Had her Road Worthy test yesterday. Few compliance issues to resolve.
Replaced a headlight and replaced the associated screws with stainless equivalents.
Unwrapped a wiring harness in the engine compartment.
Got rained on.
Farrar
Drove to Johnson city,Tenn. and picked up some scrap doors from Michael Maupin.Going to try to make a tag along trailer with working gull-wing doors!Doors were gutted,but not just shells,and had been through a fire,so,they will have to be painted after i get out the worst of the dents.By the way,I may have never seen a "D" as nice as his. I`m sure it is well known in those parts.6864.
Finished removing unused wiring in the engine compartment and wrapped most of what was left with wire loom and zip-ties:
Attachment 2908
Also ran a new wire for the choke heater. Uses same source as auto trans computer: Fuse #13.
Went for a drive. :)
Farrar
I fixed my AC leak - one of the Schrader valve cores was leaking. While it was empty, I also replaced the two o-rings on the compressor.
I also installed sway bar poly bushings. Not sure if it is simply because they aren't thirty years old or they really are a lot stiffer, but the front end feels tighter, and the 'shudder' I was getting under heavy braking is gone. I did a before and after test drive on a windy, hilly road near my house.
I'm sure many of you have had or currently have deteriorating rubber under the carpet on your parcel shelves. I really think it looks like an eye sore whenever you pull the carpet back to get into the rely compartment. I wasn't sure what to use to replace the original rubber and foam padding. I thought about getting a thick piece of rubber to eliminate the foam all together. I was looking at OSH (Orchard Supply Hardware), but the only rubber they had wasn't big enough to cover the whole area, and it was over $30. So, I decided the foam padding wasn't all that bad, it was just the rubber that was no good. While I was at OSH I found rubber that was the same thickness as the original, and that would work with the existing foam. The old rubber in my car was actually still attached to the foam pad so I had to do a bit of extra work the get all of it off (Note the knife in one of the pictures). Once the old rubber was off, it was just a matter of sizing up the new stuff. I used a sharp razor blade and cut it in place using a metal straight edge. I think it turned out pretty well. It's much better than it was that's for sure. I know a lot of people like to use DynaMat, but I only paid $9 for the rubber. Maybe in the future, I may replace the of foam pad. I think a carpet pad would work nicely.
Ordered housings and bulbs for H4 headlight conversion. Eager to get the project started. Wondering if the weather will cooperate. Fingers crossed!
Farrar
Interesting. Mine only has carpet with velcro to stick it to the rear boards. Unless yours is a later build?Quote:
Originally Posted by Chris 16409
Ordered 4 new tyres, couldn't get them to match, front and rears. :(
Attempted to replace the alternator. Got the old one out, then realized connectors were different...new thread pending lol
You don't have anything between the two wood covers? Is it just bare fiberglass? You should have some kind of carpet-pad like foam with rubber on top. Maybe someone else tore it out because it was all deteriorating.Quote:
Originally Posted by SIMid
Where did you get your alternator? What kind did you have before? If you bought the new one from the vendors, then they should have included the proper plug. Do you have any pictures?Quote:
Originally Posted by Renee_1632
Just started a thread on the issue: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?94...allation-issueQuote:
Originally Posted by Chris 16409
I dropped my classic insurance today and put the D on my regular policy as it is now my everyday car.
......and may god have mercy on my soul.....
:jawdrop:
Installed new headlights (actually a few days ago, forgot to post here) ...
Attachment 3172
Attachment 3171
... and new door LEDs. (In the photos, the driver's side has new units, the passenger's side old units.)
Attachment 3173
Attachment 3174
Farrar