I'm sure your needle valve is fine. If you have any doubt, energize the pump and see if fuel flow is shut off. If it is, your tip is fine.
That is one advantage of electric fuel pumps over mechanical pumps.
Bill Robertson
#5939
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I'm sure your needle valve is fine. If you have any doubt, energize the pump and see if fuel flow is shut off. If it is, your tip is fine.
That is one advantage of electric fuel pumps over mechanical pumps.
Bill Robertson
#5939
The needle valve is fine.
So are all of my O-rings and vacuum lines.
I have spark on all six cylinders.
Still runs like crap.
Suggestions?
Edit: On second thought, you can make suggestions but I will simply add them to a to-do list. I am not going to do anything to the car until I have a nice long chunk of time to work on it. I am going to take a DeLorean vacation and concentrate on school and work, for now.
Farrar
If you are 100% sure your intake is vacuum tight (that includes HVAC/brake booster and modulator valve. Also make sure whatever you are using in the injector bungs is vacuum tight), this is an instance where you need to use the curb idle screw.
Reseat the idle screws all the way. Use the curb idle screw to crack the throttle plates open enough for the engine to run. While it's warming up, use a timing light to ensure all 6 plugs are firing consistently.
When the engine is warm, alternate between opening the idle screws and closing the throttle plates. Open each idle screw about 1/2 turn, then try backing off the curb idle screw. It shouldn't take long for you to find idle screw settings that allow the engine to idle smoothly with the throttle plates fully closed (curb idle screw not touching at all) -- about 1.5 to 2 turns. 3.5 turns is way too far -- something is definitely wrong there. I just double checked mine -- just shy of 2 turns each.
If you haven't touched the fast idle screw or rotated the choke housing, you should be all set for a cold start tomorrow.
Bill Robertson
#5939
I have always used the curb idle screw...Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
We could just meet up and swap carbs/manifolds for testing purposes. If your car still runs like crap your issue lies somewhere else.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Edit: I'm going to be in Laplace tomorrow after work. If you have time then we could meet up and swap stuff in a parking lot somewhere.
No time for that tomorrow, but I appreciate the offer.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
Farrar
I just had an interesting thought: every time I spend money on an area of the car, I have trouble in another area. Perhaps I should simply avoid spending money on any upgrades or improvements of any kind, instead simply waiting until things break and replacing them as needed.
Ah, well. The vacation continues. (Although I will have to move it to a different parking spot soon.) Easy enough not to spend money on it when I'm not driving it.
Farrar
Have you ensured your HVAC/brake booster line is vaccum tight? Last year Matt Spittle's HVAC supply line cracked underneath the console, just as mine did in 2003. Use your hand held vacuum pump to ensure both lines hold vacuum (pull it off the manifold and test it there).
Also test your modulator valve while you're at it.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Is the "modulator valve" the thing behind the HVAC selector switch with all the different vacuum lines for the air flaps connected to it?
Farrar
It's the vacuum operated valve on the transmission that keeps it from shifting like a 1952 Mack truck -- the other 3/16" line off the back of your manifold.
Bill Robertson
#5939