Oh man, now that's a good idea.
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Oh man, now that's a good idea.
Thanks, Cliffwood for the comment!
In other news, my fuel pumps have arrived at O'Reilly's. Like every auto parts store I have always dealt with, they took my phone number and said they would call me when they arrived, and then didn't. I guess I just won't bother asking any more -- I think Advance may have done that once, years ago, but no one does it these days. (And I doubt the girl behind the counter was just trying to get my phone number.)
Unfortunately, I am working until 7pm until next Tuesday and O'Reilly closes at eight, which is not enough time for me to get there. So it looks like I will pick up the new fuel pumps tomorrow morning, and install it tomorrow night or Friday. Still hoping I can get my a/c work done on Saturday.
Farrar
Picked up $140 worth of fuel pumps and 30-amp fuses today. Really hoping the new unit does the trick. I have only one more day until, ostensibly, an a/c repair day in Schriever...
Farrar
New fuel pump has 3/8" NPT fittings. Fuel pump carrier has 1/8" fittings. Will have to go to hardware store to find adapters.
In other news, found out why courtesy lights failed: ground came out of the relay socket. Pushed it back in and held it with a small screwdriver while putting the dimmer module back in; all good now.
Boy, is it hot outside.
Farrar
Are you sure your fittings are 3/8 NPT? That's a pretty big fitting -- 5/8" actual OD (larger than the square head on top of your old pump). I have never seen a fuel pump with fittings that large.
I have seen pumps with 1/4 NPT fittings, which is about 1/2" actual OD.
The bottom of your carrier is already tapped 1/4 NPT. I use a modified 1/8 to 1/4 NPT bushing to connect the pump to the screen through the bottom of the carrier (two 1/8 NPT close couplings are joined end to end inside that bushing).
Bill Robertson
#5939
I was only guessing. Maybe 1/4" is it, though: it is meant for 3/8" fuel hose.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
After re-connecting the passenger kneepad (with a whopping two screws!) and its associated electronics (12v sockets and footwell lights), I am once again inside taking an air conditioning break. It's so hot outside that when I took out the glove box I burned myself on the lid, and no matter how much I clean the vinyl it gets coated in sweat before long. I am not sure I will work on the car any more today as it is now the hottest portion of the afternoon. (Heat index 110°F.)
Farrar
A trip to the Home Depot yielded a proper reducing coupling for the bottom of the new fuel pump (1/4" MIP to 1/8" MIP), but no 90° fitting for the top of the pump. Just to see if I could make it work, I bought a straight 1/4" hose barb, and now I know why Bill uses 90° fittings: you can't get the closing plate on if you use a straight barb.
After looking at the amount of crud collected in the top of the fuel pump boot, I have decided to make a rubber splash skirt to hang off the back of that spare tire closing plate like Bill did, to stop water from coming up over the top of the tank. I have some black vinyl around which I bought for another purpose; if I can't get a piece of inner tube or something at e.g. Harbor Freight, I will just use some of that black vinyl. (Meant for the interior, but who cares?)
Good news: the pump is made in U.S.A.
Bad news: so was the old one.
Good news: I found the weatherstrip I was planning to use for my new trunk seal.
Bad news: it's raining again.
Well, I have my lights fixed ... so if it stops raining before it's very late indeed, I can give the fuel pump a 90° hose barb. I am off to Lowe's to see if they prove more useful than Home Depot in that vein.
Farrar
Try some local hardware stores for brass pipe fittings. Often I find a better selection at those than the large chain stores.
Survey says: Ding ding ding ding ding!Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Yup, I found a male-to-female elbow at my friendly neighborhood Ace Hardware. (Not as nice as Blackhawk, but still better than Lowe's and Home Depot.) A little Teflon tape and voila --
Attachment 3542
Problem solved!
I can now feel like I accomplished something today.
Farrar
Nice! Pretty clean install.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Thanks, Sean! I like to keep my mods unobtrusive and reversible.Quote:
Originally Posted by sean
Farrar
I know you are utilizing the groves in the boot but since you are not running a boot cover, which you should, you should run a piece of padding or some other barrier to keep the boot clamp off the wires. You are asking for a split or cut wire(s).
Farrar,
Did you drain your tank first? Do you use the stock DMC baffle?
I've got a tank dissection next week.
I was thinking of literally pumping the fuel via the fuel pump itself (jump RPM relay) into my Jeep tank, with a filter somewhere along the way.
This will work, just make sure you are moving good gas or you'll clog up your jeep.Quote:
Originally Posted by sdg3205
That looks like an Airtex pump end -- did you go with another Airtex unit?
Bill Robertson
#5939
Totally.Quote:
Originally Posted by sean
This is to investigate the bucking and stalling I've had after about an hour of traffic idling. Pretty sure I'l going to find some debris and a rotten pick up hose.
Could also be a collapsing pickup hose, especially if it is an original hose.Quote:
Originally Posted by sdg3205
Yep, Airtex E8090. $63.99 at O'Reilly's. But not normally in stock, so I bought a spare.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
Thanks for that -- I will move those wires! Stock cap will not work -- has two holes and I would only need one; I am installing a splash shield behind the pump. Will illustrate with video tomorrow.Quote:
Originally Posted by sean
Farrar
My Airtex pump failed 150 miles from home today. Fortunately I had a spare Airtex pump and was able to get back on the road after a quick road side replacement.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
This was my first fuel pump failure but given our luck with Airtex pumps I do not trust them. I picked up the made in china pump at Autozone today for my new spare. I will not be buying anymore Airtex fuel pumps for 16510.
I'd still say throw a stock cover on their and plug the other hose opening. Water has a funny way of finding itself there.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
I tried the Mr. Gasket (made by Prestolite) pump on one of my church's school buses, but was disappointed with its output. It only registered 4 PSI on a dash pressure gauge, dropping to zero as the needle valve opened, rendering the dash gauge useless.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
These Airtex pumps seem to be all over the map. John Marconi installed his pump Spring 2009 and is still running on it. I believe Bob Babcock is still running his first pump, including trips to Michigan and Pennsylvania. My first pump lasted Spring 2004 to Spring 2008, at which time its death was caused by a piece of sucked up epoxy (you know who's pickup screen).
Poor Farrar, meanwhile, goes through a pump every week.
What kind of failures are you experiencing? My epoxy killed pump just sat there like a bump on a log (didn't do anything). I lost one pump to what appeared to be bearing failure (jumped around so much it was difficult to hold in my hand). It is possible my third pump did not die (the car bogged down just as Louie and I were passing an off ramp, so we zipped off the interstate, into the gas station at the top, and threw the spare into the tank -- it could have been a gust of headwind).
The pump currently in my tank got me Alabama to New Orleans, then went to/from Lexington, Pennsylvania, and DC twice, but I won't hesitate for a second to throw my spare in there if necessary.
Bill Robertson
#5939
I'm going to respond to this in the carb thread for sake of constancy.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
This is what happened to me; frustratingly, the pump would work again after the car had sat for a little bit, leading me to think that it was not the fuel pump. So I manufactured a shop assistant out of a tripod and a videocamera: I set up the camera to record the gauge readings while I went back to the engine compartment and started 'er up. When the engine died, I looked at the recording. Although after a few minutes I could turn the key and hear the pump run, it was definitely not running when I listened to the recording (doors were closed to eliminate extraneous noise on the recording), so I deduced that I had fuel pump failure.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
Mind you, I haven't had a chance to run the engine for more than five minutes since I installed the pump, but I should get the chance later today; I will let you know how it works out. Fingers crossed.
Steve, let me know what you use for your next fuel pump -- I'd love to tell AirTex goodbye.
Farrar
Right now Airtex is in my fuel tank but I picked up a made in china unit from Autozone for my new spare. I plan on removing the Airtex unit eventually and installing the made in china part. I will keep the Airtex unit as my spare.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Didn't get anything done on the car yesterday, and won't tonight either. However, my relay sockets, terminals, and crimp tool arrived so I am ready to tackle the relay compartment -- later in the week if I'm lucky. Also, I will post my solution for protecting the top of the fuel pump from rain water when I have it. It will be very similar to Bill Robertson's...
Edit: While looking for a sno-ball stand, I passed an honest-to-goodness Machine Shop yesterday -- right in my neighborhood! :D
Farrar
Glory or insanity awaits!
Attachment 3767
Farrar
Either way their will be a lot of work and a sore back involved.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
That's a given whenever I work on the car!Quote:
Originally Posted by sean
You forgot about dripping a pint of sweat down into the relay/fuse area.
I also usually end up with cuts and scrapes, and extremely dirty and/or broken fingernails. Fortunately, my girlfriend is used to this. "Good morning! Are you working on the car today? OK, I'll see you tonight." :lol:
Farrar
and those nice finger calluses conveniently located in the oddest of places.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
So, you are going to make her do it!?! Marry her NOW!Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Not so fast -- I've gotta save up the cash for the 18-piece big band I plan to have at the reception. ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron
Farrar
I hope all forum members get and invite:tongue2:Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Open bar....Im there! better save for that Farrar!Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Dude. This is New Orleans. We drink at funerals. We don't even need music to dance. Ponder that, and think of what kind of gentle, gorgeous chaos a wedding reception can be. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by sean
Farrar
Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Note to self: seriously befriend Farrar by wedding date.
Back to "Farrar's Car Blog" now... I am seriously thinking of 30-year-old wiring meant for 35-watt headlight bulbs, the headlight switch, and new 55-watt H4 bulbs, and it makes me nervous.
I think there is enough space behind the fake grille to mount two relays for the headlights; I will run a new 12v wire from the battery with a waterproof fuse holder, and a relay for the low beams and high beams. This way the headlight switch will only be switching the relay, instead of 110 watts of low beams and 120 watts of high beams. I do a lot of nighttime driving, and I don't want a melted headlight switch. So adding relays behind the fake grille sounds like a good idea to me. What do y'all think?
Farrar
Look at the wiring diagram -- headlights are on relays already. Only side and tail light amperage passes through the switch.
Bill Robertson
#5939
So what melts the switch? Do the tail lights and side lights draw that much current?Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
Farrar
I am fairly certain that the headlight's full current passes through the switch - hence the extremely common modification of a relay behind the switch, as sold by several trusted and reputable vendors.
I recall many conversations about this on the old site. The consensus, if I recall correctly, was that the switch is actually "downstream" of the relays, and that this was a colossally stupid way to wire it.
Nonsense:Quote:
Originally Posted by AdmiralSenn
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...4&d=1306264501
Bill Robertson
#5939
You're right, my mistake. It is just the side lamps and markers. I am not sure where this notion of mine came from, as I just checked my sources and all of them agree with the diagram.
Pay no attention to the man behind the keyboard!
All right; I will try to come up with an LED solution to the current draw problem.
In the meantime, I have a new problem: the new pump is too tall with that reducing coupling at the bottom of it -- I can't get the access panel (under the spare tire) back on.
It's too buggy to work outside even with my work light, and rain is forecast for tomorrow through the end of the week; this will have to wait until the weekend.
Meh.
Farrar