Open bar....Im there! better save for that Farrar!Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
I hope all forum members get and invite
Location: Dahlonega GA
Posts: 2,462
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Open bar....Im there! better save for that Farrar!I hope all forum members get and invite
eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
K-Jet: Causing electrical issues since November 5th 1955
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Dude. This is New Orleans. We drink at funerals. We don't even need music to dance. Ponder that, and think of what kind of gentle, gorgeous chaos a wedding reception can be.
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Dahlonega GA
Posts: 2,462
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Dude. This is New Orleans. We drink at funerals. We don't even need music to dance. Ponder that, and think of what kind of gentle, gorgeous chaos a wedding reception can be.
Farrar
Note to self: seriously befriend Farrar by wedding date.
eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
K-Jet: Causing electrical issues since November 5th 1955
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Back to "Farrar's Car Blog" now... I am seriously thinking of 30-year-old wiring meant for 35-watt headlight bulbs, the headlight switch, and new 55-watt H4 bulbs, and it makes me nervous.
I think there is enough space behind the fake grille to mount two relays for the headlights; I will run a new 12v wire from the battery with a waterproof fuse holder, and a relay for the low beams and high beams. This way the headlight switch will only be switching the relay, instead of 110 watts of low beams and 120 watts of high beams. I do a lot of nighttime driving, and I don't want a melted headlight switch. So adding relays behind the fake grille sounds like a good idea to me. What do y'all think?
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Posts: 1,068
Look at the wiring diagram -- headlights are on relays already. Only side and tail light amperage passes through the switch.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
So what melts the switch? Do the tail lights and side lights draw that much current?
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Posts: 443
I am fairly certain that the headlight's full current passes through the switch - hence the extremely common modification of a relay behind the switch, as sold by several trusted and reputable vendors.
I recall many conversations about this on the old site. The consensus, if I recall correctly, was that the switch is actually "downstream" of the relays, and that this was a colossally stupid way to wire it.
Posts: 1,068
Nonsense:
Bill Robertson
#5939
Posts: 443
You're right, my mistake. It is just the side lamps and markers. I am not sure where this notion of mine came from, as I just checked my sources and all of them agree with the diagram.
Pay no attention to the man behind the keyboard!
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
All right; I will try to come up with an LED solution to the current draw problem.
In the meantime, I have a new problem: the new pump is too tall with that reducing coupling at the bottom of it -- I can't get the access panel (under the spare tire) back on.
It's too buggy to work outside even with my work light, and rain is forecast for tomorrow through the end of the week; this will have to wait until the weekend.
Meh.
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
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