Ask Bill about carbing a DeLorean and other K-Jet/Carb tangets

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Originally Posted by stevedmc

This is normal. The fast idle circuit is designed to idle the car high until your choke is completely open. This is to keep a cold engine from stalling.

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This is a "typo" on my behalf. The car does not idle high on start-up. It's as if the choke waits till it's already warmed up before it engages.

I have not spoken to Bill.

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Originally Posted by congerz83

This is a "typo" on my behalf. The car does not idle high on start-up. It's as if the choke waits till it's already warmed up before it engages.

I have not spoken to Bill.

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I would close the choke plate by hand and see how the fast idle circuit acts. I'm shooting you a pm with Bill's email address. I'm sure he can answer your questions better than I can.

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Originally Posted by congerz83

I also have an idle problem... as well as an acceleration problem and a cold start problem... but I digress. My car will idle high when first started then go back to normal. Then, even after warm, it'll idle at about 2,000RPM until I punch the gas quickly. I'm guessing this has something to do with the choke. Also, at times, after awhile of driving, the car will idle very low 450-500RPM it will also stall at times in during this "mode" of operation. I'm also going to start keeping better track of my mileage because I think mine has dropped drasticly.

Also the car bogs down upon acceleration VERY heavily when you first start the car. Even during normal operation I cannot floor the accelerator without heavy "bucking" This carb conversion only has about 300miles since installation. I also changed the plugs shortly after the conversion.

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Although a bit high (depending on ambient temperature) it is normal for most carb engines to gain RPMs as it warms and require you to pat the peddle to get the linkage to drop off of the high idle cam/step...

All of your symptoms could be the carb.
Easiest first:
Cold start and/or bogg before acceleration and/or 'bucking' - classic symptoms of the spray pump failure/adjustment.

Bogg and/or buck low- starve then surge of fuel (float adjustment, carb filter, fuel filter, pump strainer, pump...), timing

Cold start and/or high idle (especially if accompanied with smoke and/or rich smell) - choke setting (opens late) may set high idle cam, sticky linkage.

High/low idle- sticky linkage.

Air/fuel adjustments (depending on carb type) can screw everything up.
Most adjustments/settings are required to be done in a specific order.

I would let it sit all night (KEY), then make certain all linkage is free. Be sure to check with throttle AND choke in all positions and combinations! Next check spray pump sprays throughout its full stroke. Check choke settings (again, it MUST sit all night..but recheck with throttle ~1/2 open after warm up also).
Then go from there...If nothing found, go back to basics (timing, vacuum leaks, fuel quality, internal carb problem (save yourself some trouble and borrow one to test with if possible.))


EDIT: RE your correction WRT choke in morning... Befor you start you should hit the pedal once to let the choke reset after cooling. It will set the fast idle then, if required. If you don't, it stays where you left it when you last touched the pedal...

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Originally Posted by Ron

Cold start and/or bogg before acceleration and/or 'bucking' - classic symptoms of the spray pump failure/adjustment.

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Is this also called the accelerator-pump?

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Originally Posted by congerz83

Is this also called the accelerator-pump?

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Yes.
(And my best guess so far ;-)

I really wish someone would've made a video on how to set these thing up.

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Originally Posted by congerz83

I really wish someone would've made a video on how to set these thing up.

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Google the carb number and you should be able to find a doc on the rebuilding proceedure..try to get a TRW or quality kit Rather than JiffyKit or such (more detail and illustrations).

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Originally Posted by congerz83

I really wish someone would've made a video on how to set these thing up.

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Somebody did and they posted it on YouTube. Just search for Motorcraft 2100 rebuild.

The following procedure, adapted from another website, assumes that you have set the carb to "basic" settings of: idle air mixture screws out 2 turns, curb idle screw in 1.5 turns. This basic setting should allow the engine to start and idle, so that you can make the adjustments (on a fully warmed engine).



The first thing to do is not set the idle speed, but instead to set the idle mixture screws to lean best idle setting. First, turn in the mixture screws until the engine dies or runs worse. Then back out the screws ¼ to ½ turn at a time -- the engine should pick up speed and begin to smooth out. Back out ½ turn more, or until the screws do nothing or the engine runs worse, then turn back to the point where it ran its best.

Now that the mixture screws are at their best running location, you can adjust the idle speed screw. The screw will be sensitive and it should only take ¼ to ½ turns to achieve the idle speed you like.

Check and set idle to your driving preference. Put the car in gear and apply slight load, (AC on) and set the Idle as you like it. Don’t set it too high, as this will cause causes excessive clutch and brake wear.

Recheck timing and vacuum hook ups. Recheck mixture screw to lean best idle again. If all is still best and smoothest idle then confirm and note the final settings.

If you need a video, perhaps I can make one.

Farrar

Farrar, these notes are very helpful. A video of you applying the steps would be awesome! All of the carb-guys could use it as a reference. Not to mention the gift of my eternal grattitude.