Out of curiosity, when you get a chance can you pull the gray plug on your Intertia Switch and check to see if it's in good shape?Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
Out of curiosity, when you get a chance can you pull the gray plug on your Intertia Switch and check to see if it's in good shape?Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
I really need to apply maximum force as fast as I can to get the RPM to drop. Sometimes it actually takes 7-8 times to accomplish this. :shameful: I'm afraid I'm going to put my foot through the floor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron
Ok so the car sat since 4pm yesterday. I did NOT get a chance to adjust the carb yesterday. I figured I just give the update on today's behavior. It was a bit chilly this morning in the tri-state area. Pumped pedal twice, turned on, the car stayed on at regular "choke-less" idle without stalling. Let it run until I was ready to leave for work (10MIN). The car ran very well, but again, rpm shot up to 2000RPM once I got 1 mile down the road to the first traffic light. It's stayed like that through out most of the 15MIN ride to work.
You should not have to "pump the pedal." Just touch the pedal until you hear the choke plates reset, then take your foot off the pedal and turn the key. If the car has only been sitting a day or so, there will still be plenty of fuel in the bowl.Quote:
Originally Posted by congerz83
Farrar
It sounds a LOT like you're having the same issues that I am. I've largely traced the problem down to a potential combination of two things: the electric choke not behaving properly and opening the choke plates as it's supposed to, and the fast idle cam 'resetting' and interfering with the normal operation of the throttle plates via the throttle.Quote:
Originally Posted by congerz83
I don't know exactly WHY it's doing this (or whether it's related to the potential issue with the choke), but as I understand it the fast idle is supposed to kick down after you 'bump' the throttle to get the throttle off the fast idle cam. On mine, every time I let the throttle go back to idle, it resets the fast idle cam and bumps the idle back up to around 2,000- and also wants to climb higher continually. If I'm standing there working the linkages by hand, I can pull on the throttle and the push down on the fast idle assembly/choke and it will pop to where it's supposed to be for normal running. If I don't let the throttle all the way back to idle, it will run the way it's supposed to- but if I let go of the throttle, it will pop the choke closed and reset the fast idle cam. I'm planning on pulling off the carb to test the choke and go through the procedure for setting the fast idle cam- though I don't know how it could have gotten messed up since I've not touched any of the adjustments on it.
As for your issue with the low idle, is that with nothing (A/C, fans, stereo, lights) running or with a lot of other engine loads running? At the beginning of the summer I had a similar problem when I started driving at night when I needed the A/C on- in the 'stock' setup, our carbs don't have any kind of mechanism to bump the idle up to account for loads like the A/C and headlights so if the idle is set without the engine being loaded when everything is turned on it can drag the idle down a lot. It may just be that you need to raise the idle a bit so with everything off it idles a bit high but then idles normally with what you're usually using turned on.
Hmmm...Why do you think that the settings are often down to the 1/64" then? There is more going on than keeping it from over flowing and not running out of gas on long full throttle runs...Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
It's easy to miss the fork when installing the choke spring and it is possible on some 2100s to flip the choke spring making it work backwards (when you look at it installed in the cap, IIRC it should be wound clockwise (looks like a 6). Could explain a lot of your problems.??? ... check this when you do the things mentioned earlier. (Also, hold the throttle 1/2 open and turn the key on and see if the choke starts off ~closed and slowly opens fully, be patient...)Quote:
Originally Posted by congerz83
If at ANY time the choke plate is floppy, the spring has missed the fork.
+1/2 ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Once fully on a cold engine is what every owners manual I have ever seen said (for "dumb" carburetors...primes the engine...and purges the pump)...more on cold days. Perhaps yours is running rich and/or it's been a lot warmer there???
I live in southeast Louisiana; it's always a lot warmer here.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron
Farrar
This happens no matter what else I'm running. To tell the truth, it's the least common issue I have. The most common times it happens is at start-up. Usually after I've been driving for a while, and I stop to pick something up, and start the car again. But then again after 8 hours of sitting it started and ran in that 500rpm range for about a minute.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashyukun
I have had the new fuel pump in for about 500 miles with no problem. I can't believe I'm actually impressed by that statement. My question is, where to I get the metal "cup" that the pump screws into with the filter on the other side? Is that a custom made "Bill Part?"
Bill makes those "fuel pump carriers" from aluminum 2" NPT pipe and pipe cap. He drills and taps threads for a coupler in the middle of the cap, so that you can screw the pickup filter onto one end of the coupler and the pump onto the other.
Farrar
Merry Christmas Bill.