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Top, compr to condenser. The steering column rubbed through it (common problem I'm told). The protective pad in between the hose and steering column was attached on the wrong side, and as I took a turn I heard a pop and pshhhhhh.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
Okay, the High pressure side. Not necessarily common, but your the 3rd person I've heard of it happening too.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCflux
Finally, some closure. Went out to check on it in the garage this morning. No oil at all on the floor overnight after running the motor for 20 or so minutes last night. Feeling cautiously optimistic, I reinstalled the heat shields, impact absorber, rear fascia, taillights and lower engine cover. Basically put the whole car back together. Fought yet again with the DMCH reproduction radiator duct. I swear that thing hates me. It doesn't fit for crap!
Drove about 20 miles around town to really warm things up. Aside from a high idle (throttle arm not returning fully to rest, if I blip the pedal I can usually get it back to an even 750) it felt and ran great. Could probably use some air in the tires.
Cleaned up the whole garage and put down brand new cardboard under the drivetrain. I'll check back in a few hours and over the next couple of days to make sure it stays clean. I think it will this time!!
Tomorrow I'll try and figure out that throttle arm issue. It never happened before and nothing really changed.
Good for you, bud. You've been putting some serious time into that. Happy for you, man :thumbup:!Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Throttle - move the throttle spool by hand with the engine off - listen for the idle speed microswitch to "click." If NOTHING was messed with at all before you did all your engine work, you may be able to get away with just turning the idle speed microswitch inward in a bit more to make the screw longer and have a better chance of tripping the microswitch.
Possible worst case scenario - the throttle cable itself is starting to stick.
Thanks! Been a long job but I owe most of the kudos to the local guys, especially Clint...Quote:
Originally Posted by DeLorean03
And yeah, we tried all that fiddling with the spool and cable. There is a factory paint mark on my idle screw and I know it's not been disturbed. When the idle sticks high, you can turn the throttle spool backwards a tiny bit by hand and the microswitch will engage, lowering the idle. I think it might actually have been the arm itself, as I normally remove it from one end only - typically from the throttle body itself. This time I took it off at both ends and was cleaning it up. It's possible I knocked one of the ends so it's too short now, or perhaps turned the whole rod around when reinstalling it. Though I don't think that would make any difference.
On a related topic, does anyone else notice their air cleaner box doesn't quite line up? Mine has trouble lining up the three bolt holes when it's pressed down onto the mixture unit. I have to kinda feather things into place. It does go eventually, but...
There's a reason it has two adjustable ends - very tiny changes in it make a decent difference. I have been surprised the recent fiddling I've done with mine how a little change can make a substantial difference.Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature...&v=ZtpTVR_K5-I
I know this is not a big deal for most of you guys but I was pretty proud of my self since it was my first time doing this. lol
Might wanna loosely thread the fuel bolts back into the distributor to keep crud from getting inside. Good job!Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC81
Thanks for the tip, I did put a piece of tape over each hole thinking that would be ok.Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
The hose is supposed to be zip-tied to the brake line (?!?) at the factory. It is often rotted away by now. An unfortunate design flaw. We see many cars come in with a metal splice in that exact spot that was likely installed in the mid-1980s rather than replacing the whole line.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMCflux
That's great, Mike! You're doing a good job there! As for taking the intake off - why not? Four more bolts and you're there. GREAT opportunity to do some 20+ year old stuff. Get all new bolts for everything - no not re-use your Y-coolant pipe bolts or your 4 intake manifold anchoring bolts if you do decide to take the intake manifold off.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC81
Nice job :thumbup:!
I installed Ed Uding's beautiful aluminum radiator!
Quote:
Originally Posted by DeLorean03
Thanks! I do plan to replace most of the bolts why it apart and like you said I'm sure I'll go ahead and take it all the way down since I made it this far.
Hey Mike, do you have the original plastic radiator duct or the fiberglass reproduction?Quote:
Originally Posted by ramblinmike
That radiator really is pretty... a real shame to hide it behind the chipped up condenser.
Finally finshed my c4 Corvette 3rd brake light install, i think i will write a how to when i get the pics uploaded. Even installed a quick disconnect from a old BMW to help when the louvers are removed.
I took my car in for 4 wheel alignment and brought this service bulletin with me for the alignment specs.
http://dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-34-1.82.html
I also brought along a few extra shims for adjusting the rear toe. Everything is now set up as it should be and I'm all set to drive down to the DMCMW open house on Saturday!
With the new shocks, lowered stance, poly bushings up front, and the lower control arm supports I noticed a marked improvement in the steering response and handling. The last step is to install the DMCMW front strut bar brace and the suspension will finally be done. I'm really impressed with how well the car drives now and it makes me feel like all the work I've been doing on the car was worth the time and money.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...2&d=1370870641
Looks like you have treated her right from the photo, nice work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark D
Thanks! You can catch a peek of the yellow zinc plated exhaust brackets in that pic. It's kind of a bummer though how quickly the center section of the stock muffler discolors from heat. I thought about ceramic coating it silver but I think a high performance exhaust is in my future in the next couple of years anyway.
Went to remove the intake today, 3 of the 4 bolts came out great. The last one is very very tight so it is soaking in a pool of PB Blaster. :wrenchin:
I've got the original duct. You are absolutely correct - it is a shame to hide it!Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Hmm. No trouble fitting it around the wider radiator, I take it. That fiberglass reproduction is a very expensive frustration.Quote:
Originally Posted by ramblinmike
On another note - today I fixed my return-to-idle issue by removing the linkage rod, cleaning and relubricating it and lengthening it a quarter-turn. Now I return to idle every time with no blipping the pedal. Also convinced my Dave M dome light timer to exit parade mode. With all the work lately it had gotten stuck there and the blinking dome lights were driving me mad :)
Next up is to check the mixture now that the new fuel pump is installed, to verify no adjustments are needed.
Took another drive. Tomorrow it's a thorough wash to get all the sawdust and greasy handprints off. For now I'm celebrating a job well done with some wine...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LqavNEmW9yE&feature=player_detailpage
The bolt on the intake came out! Thank you Delorean gods! lol
Congrats! Now you gotta clean out that valley.... yikes :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC81
Thanks! Whats good to use, brake cleaner?Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Start with a vacuum cleaner.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC81
I had to leave right after I got it off but it looks like a lot of dirt..lolQuote:
Originally Posted by DMCMW Dave
+1 on the vacuum. The good thing is it's DRY DIRT. You will need patients and a long screw driver to Pick loose the crusty stuff and to dig out the 4 deep pockets.
I have a shop-vac with a mini-vac attatchment kit (For doing confinded space cleaning) it worked great at getting down in the pockets.
Looks like what ever was in there was making a beach..lolQuote:
Originally Posted by DMC5180
Not that I can add any weight to Dave and Dennis, but yes - a vacuum to start with. Don't accidentally get crap down in your cylinders! You did the right thing stuffing those paper towels in. You might consider something with a little more sealing power for the short term - maybe some duct tape right over the holes (remove the paper towels first though) just so anything you kick up vacuuming doesn't go down there.
Keep at it, the valley is nowhere near as scary as everyone says :) Unless you find something actually scary... like block rot or a colony of snails...
I have to admit, it was not as bad as I thought it would be. All the hype I have herd really had me scared, not to mention that last intake bolt. I was so sure it was about to snap but I got it.Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Got my Evolution cover in from Big Sky and put it on. Not a really tight fit but it should work for most weather (hurricane season not really included). I think the cut is quite good though.
Great job, Mike! You're doing a really good job here. Everyone here has really said it all - nothing for me to add. All new everything as you rebuild - seals and O-rings. You'll be so happy you did this - the peace of mind knowing your valley is sound really is like nothing else.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC81
I would paint the inside of the valley with a paint that is resistant to antifreeze to keep block rot from ever occurring. If that is the original waterpump, I would highly consider changing it while you're there.
I know, easy for me to spend someone else's moeny, but hey, a waterpump change now that you're there = much easier to do.
The original duct is very 'bendy' and doesn't seem to have a problem with the Uding radiator. Sorry the fiberglass one is giving you fits!Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Thanks for the kind words buddy, I am going to replace everything in the vod (vacuum switch & lambda sensor, o-rings ect.) just not sure about the water pump yet. Also still debating on coating the vod, I hear alot of pros and cons. Not sure what to do just yet....lolQuote:
Originally Posted by DeLorean03
Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
Snails!!! HA what kinda idiot could have snails in his VOD....... oh wait.:wink:
I'm thinking about coating my VOD now that my waterpump developed a leak (more like a stream) and I have to replace it. I'd say if you're in there anyway replace the pump. I just finished a lot of work on my engine and fired her up only to find the pump is now leaking. It absolutely sucks to tear everything back down to fix something like that. I just got off the phone with Julie at DMCW to order a new pump.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC81
I'm leaning towards the same route I think also. Hows is your car coming by the way? It was looking pretty good the last time I saw with the paint removal.Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny_Z
If I could get about a week of reasonable humidity I could get the fascias painted. Then it'd just be a matter of reassembly. It's been storms and miserable heat for the passed three weeks. On the upside I think all the straightening I did on my front fascia is going to work. It hasn't eyebrowed yet.
http://uploads.m-cgi.com/kennyz/Delo...s/fascia26.jpg
I was thinking of cutting an aluminum plate to cover the valley and sealing it with high temp silicon. So if the waterpump leaks it is an easy cleanup and doesnt get caught in the block. However if not properly sealed it could trap the coolant underneigth as well. Coolant is nasty stuff when it sits on aluminum for a while, RIP original PRV hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Kenny_Z
Time, money and weather will stop a project fast....lol Glad to see your still working on her tho, keep it up!:thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenny_Z