BTTF Time Machine Build Questions - Ask Me Anything

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Revol2

Hi guys!
I wrote a message in private to many authorities builders car BTTF
I wanted to buy bttf speedo already built or Replica Stanley Display and I also wrote to Gary Weaver
Gary Weaver is totaly me ignored :)
so...* that money is so much that is not necessary any more? )
I Do not know who to knock for to find Stanley ReadOut Replica(!)
all they ignore and hide :(
Only Mark D, me very much helped and I'll start to build speedo himself
thank you very much Mark, for your very detailed answer!

I received a Hammond
and my box is very ribbed outside
Attachment 49297
Attachment 49298
Attachment 49299

I'm a other kind of ordered?
Attachment 49296

everybody have are ribbed sides on your boxes?
Please tell me, where to get the correct box ? Thx!

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The hammond enclosure you have is correct and the waviness on the outside of the enclosure are pretty common. It's not really a "defect" but it's related to the molding process of the box itself. The inside of the box has actual ribs where you can subdivide the box up or glue in partitions, and the slightly ribbed outside it just waviness from the injection molding process. You can use a sanding block to flatten out the plastic, or when you paint the box use a filler primer and block the primer and the waviness will be less noticeable.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark D

Check your email, I forwarded you some info.

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I also need the drawing or or layout of the overhead panel.

Raul

In regards to the perforated mesh for the meter panel, it's the same aluminum mesh used on the flux bands on the exterior of the car. It's sold in 4x10 sheets and one sheet is more than enough for one car.

McNICHOLS® Quality Perforated Metal, Round Hole, Aluminum Type 3003-H14, .050 Gauge, Mill Finish, 3/32" Holes on 5/32" Centers, Staggered Pattern, 33% Open Area, Sheet, 48.0000" Width x 120.0000" Length

http://www.mcnichols.com/product/173...=avc:AV-127478

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark D

The red/silver hose is Aeroquip brand PN 601021L0150....

To mount the straight end of the hose to the aluminum bulkhead production fabricated a pipe coupler welded to a strip of bar stock (steel) and then threaded the straight hose fitting on to it.

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Do you know the dimensions of this bar stock? I imagine they cut both pieces from a longer bar.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by drewguillory

Do you know the dimensions of this bar stock? I imagine they cut both pieces from a longer bar.

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I do know the dimensions but don't have the info handy. I'll pull up the CAD model later and take some measurements. The pipe fitting is a Male-Male NPT fitting if I'm remembering correctly. It doesn't actually have the correct threads to match the end of the Aeroquip hose, but they just jammed it on there as tight as they could to make it work.

The meter panel that fits in the glove box is cut from 1/8" thick aluminum 6061 sheet and is flat with no bend at the bottom (as someone else posted earlier)

The overall dimensions are 15 29/32 x 4 25/32. Most of the fabricated parts on the car have 'make sense' dimensions to the whole or half inch, but the meter panel is more oddly shaped for whatever reason. Either the guy who made the part was trying to hit an exact measurement to match the glove box, or he was just a little care free with his cut lines.

The top edge of the aluminum plate is also notched out for clearance to the glove box latch mechanism. Without the notch the plate will not fit correctly in the glove box.

This photo I posted a few posts back shows the upper profile of the plate.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...6&d=1488393200

This is about as detailed as I can get with dimensions.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark D

... or when you paint the box use a filler primer and block the primer and the waviness will be less noticeable.

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Super Mark, I will do so
You have a big head! :) Thx

Hi Mark,

Thank you for continuing to help us all with our questions. I think we all learn and benefit from your knowledge and experience.

I'm sorry to keep throwing questions your way, but was wondering if there is any useful information for the unintended holes that exist on the bottom of the reactor core (behind the heatsinks) and on the rear vents themselves (the miscellaneous holes that don't have screws in them). I could attempt to measure them out from pictures, but if you have actual dimensions that would be really useful.

Thanks

Quote:

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Originally Posted by "What The Flux?"

Hi Mark,

Thank you for continuing to help us all with our questions. I think we all learn and benefit from your knowledge and experience.

I'm sorry to keep throwing questions your way, but was wondering if there is any useful information for the unintended holes that exist on the bottom of the reactor core (behind the heatsinks) and on the rear vents themselves (the miscellaneous holes that don't have screws in them). I could attempt to measure them out from pictures, but if you have actual dimensions that would be really useful.

Thanks

---

The best information that we have is that the extra "oops" holes around the nuclear reactor ring were from a design change in the heat sink spacing sometime during the build. The reactor as we know it now has one heat sink centered on the rear of the reactor with the remaining heat sinks evenly spaced around it. Early on in the build this wasn't the case and the heat sinks were spaced differently.

Something like this:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...2&d=1488834322

The extra holes that still exist line up with the hole spacing on the heat sinks.

I can confirm with some reference photos, but as far as I know this is an A car trait only. The B car only had one set of holes that matched to the A car after the final spacing was decided.

There are a few other "oops" holes in the vents that are there for interesting reasons. There are two sets of triangularly spaced holes on the top of each vent that hold the plastic CO2 dispensing nozzle inside the vent. The nozzle could be mounted in one of two positions to blast CO2 either straight back, or up at an angle.

In the mall parking lot scene when the car returns back cold from the first time travel event with Einstein in the car, you first see the CO2 blast backwards horizontally towards the camera. Then it cuts to a wide shot immediately afterwards and you see the plume of CO2 shooting out at an upward angle.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cpistocco

Wow- That switch layout is exactly what I have been looking for.... One switch every inch! Can you tell me how you create the sound effects? Also, what is the proper size of the red and green jewel lights?
Thanks a million :)
Charlie
ps- It took me 3 attempts before I could bend the plexi properly! :)

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The jewel lights are 1", the sound affects are a little complicated and I don't want to highjack this topic anymore than I have already, tho here's a handy tip on how to make the plexi work using a heat gun, original cover and some masking tape....

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...341c6ad20d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8372f132ed.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2e3ffd3af9.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b7f626ec5a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...16ad845ee1.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b368cab223.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by minispeedstar

The jewel lights are 1", the sound affects are a little complicated and I don't want to highjack this topic anymore than I have already, tho here's a handy tip on how to make the plexi work using a heat gun, original cover and some masking tape....

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...341c6ad20d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...8372f132ed.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...2e3ffd3af9.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b7f626ec5a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...16ad845ee1.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...b368cab223.jpg

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Thank You.
That is pretty much how I bent the plexi....finally! :)
Just to be clear, are the lights 1 inch, or are the holes 1 inch?
If I message you, can you clue me in on the sound effects? I assume you use sound chips....
Thanks
Charlie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark D

Thanks for the kind words, I just try to help out wherever I can :-)

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YES!
Thank You to Mark, Steven, and all of the other folks who are so self-less with their time and knowledge.
Bravo to all !
Sincerely,
-Charlie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cpistocco

Thank You.
That is pretty much how I bent the plexi....finally! :)
Just to be clear, are the lights 1 inch, or are the holes 1 inch?
If I message you, can you clue me in on the sound effects? I assume you use sound chips....
Thanks
Charlie

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1" hole about 1-1/8" lens. The hex is simply the securing nut above rather than below securing.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c538426d7f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4fa700abf8.jpg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by minispeedstar

1" hole about 1-1/8" lens. The hex is simply the securing nut above rather than below securing.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...c538426d7f.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...4fa700abf8.jpg

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Thank You again!
I have been searching on ebay and amazon....and I cant seem to find a pilot light with a 1-1/8 lens. I have been looking at dialco lights as well. Can I ask you where you are purchasing yours. I appreciate all of the spoon-feeding. :)
Sincerely
Charlie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cpistocco

Thank You again!
I have been searching on ebay and amazon....and I cant seem to find a pilot light with a 1-1/8 lens. I have been looking at dialco lights as well. Can I ask you where you are purchasing yours. I appreciate all of the spoon-feeding. :)
Sincerely
Charlie

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a 1" fixture is what you want... It's called out by the size of the hole it fits - In this case a 1" fixture which has a lens that's slightly larger.

Cheers
Steve

[emoji1312]what Steve said :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by minispeedstar

[emoji1312]what Steve said :)

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Thanks again guys.
I am having a hard time finding those lights.....any suggestions where to get them?
Also, what size hole does the stop switch take?
It looks like 1-1/2 inch.
-Charlie :0)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cpistocco

Thanks again guys.
I am having a hard time finding those lights.....any suggestions where to get them?
Also, what size hole does the stop switch take?
It looks like 1-1/2 inch.
-Charlie :0)

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Red w/ faceted jewel:
031-0431-300
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...khUkHr7Q%3d%3d
or
http://www.newark.com/dialight/031-0...rfnonsku=false


Green w/ faceted jewel:
031-0432-300
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...khUkHr7Q%3d%3d


Bulb holder base:
031-3101-01-101
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...hH8QDfBw%3d%3d
or
http://www.newark.com/dialight/031-3...rew/dp/05B3024


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...4&d=1488998054

You should also be able to search those same PN's and look for other cheaper sources, those were just the quick ones I found that had them in stock.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6390ff7223.jpg
I'm down to my last 3 pairs but have more on the way, if you've not found any after a while let me know could prob hook u up.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark D

The best information that we have is that the extra "oops" holes around the nuclear reactor ring were from a design change in the heat sink spacing sometime during the build. The reactor as we know it now has one heat sink centered on the rear of the reactor with the remaining heat sinks evenly spaced around it. Early on in the build this wasn't the case and the heat sinks were spaced differently.

Something like this:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...2&d=1488834322

The extra holes that still exist line up with the hole spacing on the heat sinks.

I can confirm with some reference photos, but as far as I know this is an A car trait only. The B car only had one set of holes that matched to the A car after the final spacing was decided.

There are a few other "oops" holes in the vents that are there for interesting reasons. There are two sets of triangularly spaced holes on the top of each vent that hold the plastic CO2 dispensing nozzle inside the vent. The nozzle could be mounted in one of two positions to blast CO2 either straight back, or up at an angle.

In the mall parking lot scene when the car returns back cold from the first time travel event with Einstein in the car, you first see the CO2 blast backwards horizontally towards the camera. Then it cuts to a wide shot immediately afterwards and you see the plume of CO2 shooting out at an upward angle.

---

Hi Mark,

Great detailed info as always! I am grateful for your explanation. That kinda makes sense with what I had observed from various reference images and footage from OUTATIME. I could see that the three holes per heat sinks were shifted between the final holes that we see today. I think there are a few miscellaneous holes also, but don't think it would be fair to trouble you for those. ;)

I am curious to know if you are able to kindly clarify the spacing of the two sets of triangularly spaced holes however. I have noticed that they are quite distinctive to the A car and that they are slightly different to each other. Again, I wouldn't ask you to release anything that is sensitive or of shared intellectual property, but if you are able to calrify those hole positions, that would be really awesome!

Just one last, tiny question if I may?... How many locator pins are there on the lower (side) of the yellow reactor hatch lid? I have calculated from your image that there might be three evenly spaced?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark D

Red w/ faceted jewel:
031-0431-300
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...khUkHr7Q%3d%3d
or
http://www.newark.com/dialight/031-0...rfnonsku=false


Green w/ faceted jewel:
031-0432-300
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...khUkHr7Q%3d%3d


Bulb holder base:
031-3101-01-101
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/...hH8QDfBw%3d%3d
or
http://www.newark.com/dialight/031-3...rew/dp/05B3024


http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...4&d=1488998054

You should also be able to search those same PN's and look for other cheaper sources, those were just the quick ones I found that had them in stock.

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Thank You-
I did not realize that the assemblies had to be purchased in two pieces (4 pieces in total), That is where I was going wrong,
Much appreciated.
-Charlie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by "What The Flux?"

Hi Mark,

Great detailed info as always! I am grateful for your explanation. That kinda makes sense with what I had observed from various reference images and footage from OUTATIME. I could see that the three holes per heat sinks were shifted between the final holes that we see today. I think there are a few miscellaneous holes also, but don't think it would be fair to trouble you for those. ;)

I am curious to know if you are able to kindly clarify the spacing of the two sets of triangularly spaced holes however. I have noticed that they are quite distinctive to the A car and that they are slightly different to each other. Again, I wouldn't ask you to release anything that is sensitive or of shared intellectual property, but if you are able to calrify those hole positions, that would be really awesome!

Just one last, tiny question if I may?... How many locator pins are there on the lower (side) of the yellow reactor hatch lid? I have calculated from your image that there might be three evenly spaced?

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I can check the model for more info on the triangular spaced holes for the CO2 nozzle mounting. I shared these images a while ago with another member via email that includes the hole spacing on the RH side.

The locations on the hole positions are pretty much the highest level of detail you can get though on the vents. For it to really even matter you'd first have to have the shape of each plate correct, and then the individual plates located correctly in space relative to one another. Having an accurate engine cover is also important so you can accurately locate the whole vent assembles relative to the rest of the car.

Otherwise you'll just have a really accurate hole pattern on inaccurate parts.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...2&d=1489077236
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...1&d=1489076862

In regards to the nuclear reactor hatch, yes there are three locking pins on the cap that line up with three corresponding notches in the core. Spacing is an even 120 degrees

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark D

I can check the model for more info on the triangular spaced holes for the CO2 nozzle mounting. I shared these images a while ago with another member via email that includes the hole spacing on the RH side.

The locations on the hole positions are pretty much the highest level of detail you can get though on the vents. For it to really even matter you'd first have to have the shape of each plate correct, and then the individual plates located correctly in space relative to one another. Having an accurate engine cover is also important so you can accurately locate the whole vent assembles relative to the rest of the car.

Otherwise you'll just have a really accurate hole pattern on inaccurate parts.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...2&d=1489077236
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...1&d=1489076862

In regards to the nuclear reactor hatch, yes there are three locking pins on the cap that line up with three corresponding notches in the core. Spacing is an even 120 degrees

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Wow! You never cease to impress Mark! Thank you very much, I appreciate that.

That's pretty much exactly what I was looking for. If you do have the time or the inclination to provide the same for the LH side, that would be epic. Again, no worries if it's not possible though, I am grateful for what you have provided already.

I completely understand about the accuate vent panels and engine cover, I'm hoping to gradually improve the accuracy as I go along and learn new info.

Thanks also for the confirmation of the locking pins.

Have a great day!

It shouldn't be a problem to measure the holes on the other vent. It might take a day or two since all those files are on a different computer.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by minispeedstar

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/201...6390ff7223.jpg
I'm down to my last 3 pairs but have more on the way, if you've not found any after a while let me know could prob hook u up.

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Very Kind of you Minispeedstar.... But I am going to try my best to find them on my own. I found some cheap on a site called "REXEL" ($7.00 apiece)
Thanks
Charlie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark D

It shouldn't be a problem to measure the holes on the other vent. It might take a day or two since all those files are on a different computer.

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Incredibly helpful! Thank you Mark.

Would it happen to be on the computer (laptop) that we saw in the OUTATIME documentary? :D

Just another quick question (sorry to be so inquisitive!), is the rear edge of the engine cover curved to match the body work of the car, or is it straight and sits underneath the rear body panel?

Thanks!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by "What The Flux?"

Incredibly helpful! Thank you Mark.

Would it happen to be on the computer (laptop) that we saw in the OUTATIME documentary? :D

Just another quick question (sorry to be so inquisitive!), is the rear edge of the engine cover curved to match the body work of the car, or is it straight and sits underneath the rear body panel?

Thanks!

---

I've finally been able to upgrade to a more decent desktop machine at home to run Catia V5 which is the program all of the parts are designed in. I had a laptop during the restoration so I could work on the go during my trips out to California. Most 3D modeling programs are pretty demanding so it's nice to finally have a graphics card that is designed with modeling programs in mind.

The rear of the engine cover is slightly curved to match the curvature of the fascia. The bottom plates for the bolt on lower vent sections are also angled for the same reason. This also requires three vertical plates of the lower vent section to be slightly different.

I was describing in another post how that lower section was modified by the tram garage after production so the engine cover could be raised and lowered without removing the lower half of the vents. For the restoration undoing that modification meant having to measure what we left of the original vent bottoms and redesigning new parts back to the original state. All things considered it was one of the more challenging designs to perfect since the vents are such an important part of the time machine. It took a few weeks of collaborating back and forth with Joe and some extended measuring sessions with the real parts in hand.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...1&d=1489163336

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark D

I've finally been able to upgrade to a more decent desktop machine at home to run Catia V5 which is the program all of the parts are designed in. I had a laptop during the restoration so I could work on the go during my trips out to California. Most 3D modeling programs are pretty demanding so it's nice to finally have a graphics card that is designed with modeling programs in mind.

The rear of the engine cover is slightly curved to match the curvature of the fascia. The bottom plates for the bolt on lower vent sections are also angled for the same reason. This also requires three vertical plates of the lower vent section to be slightly different.

I was describing in another post how that lower section was modified by the tram garage after production so the engine cover could be raised and lowered without removing the lower half of the vents. For the restoration undoing that modification meant having to measure what we left of the original vent bottoms and redesigning new parts back to the original state. All things considered it was one of the more challenging designs to perfect since the vents are such an important part of the time machine. It took a few weeks of collaborating back and forth with Joe and some extended measuring sessions with the real parts in hand.

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I know only too well of the hardware demands of 3D software! Especially as the newer generation renderers are only GPU and sometimes only an NVIDIA GPU?! I noticed you taking real measurements of the parts on a portable laptop which looked like a pretty cool and convenient setup.

Every time I read your posts on here, I learn something new and fascinating! I had no idea that the bottom most plates of the rear vents were angled like that to follow the profile of the rear lights?! It makes sense of course when you think about it. Also makes sense that the vertical plates would each have to be slightly different to allow for the bottom plate(s).

Great that you restoration guys went to so much trouble to make them authentic to 1985. Legendary work!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by mluder

Lots of similar available.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-PHAO...item3f767a2256

Cheers
Steven

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I actually won it and for cheap too. However, it came in yesterday and it's kinda small- like a couple centimeters too small. The hole in the faceplate is 7cm, the gauge is 6.5 across the bezel. It looks accurate but obviously is not. :(

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark D

The meter panel that fits in the glove box is cut from 1/8" thick aluminum 6061 sheet and is flat with no bend at the bottom (as someone else posted earlier)

The overall dimensions are 15 29/32 x 4 25/32. Most of the fabricated parts on the car have 'make sense' dimensions to the whole or half inch, but the meter panel is more oddly shaped for whatever reason. Either the guy who made the part was trying to hit an exact measurement to match the glove box, or he was just a little care free with his cut lines.

The top edge of the aluminum plate is also notched out for clearance to the glove box latch mechanism. Without the notch the plate will not fit correctly in the glove box.

This photo I posted a few posts back shows the upper profile of the plate.
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...6&d=1488393200

This is about as detailed as I can get with dimensions.

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Do you know what size the round gauges are? I got one off eBay - a Phaostron that's 2.5 inches across the bezel, but obviously too small as the holes in the faceplate are 7cm that I got from Bruce, and that's the size in the sketch on here as well.

There's one more on eBay, but it's only 2 inches in diameter.


Greg

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Timebender

Do you know what size the round gauges are? I got one off eBay - a Phaostron that's 2.5 inches across the bezel, but obviously too small as the holes in the faceplate are 7cm that I got from Bruce, and that's the size in the sketch on here as well.

There's one more on eBay, but it's only 2 inches in diameter.


Greg

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The diameter of the outer black ring of the gauge face is roughly 3.5" diameter, and the hole size in the panel should be 2.875". You should be looking for a gauges with a 631-XXXX part number. The ones from Apex are 631-19110

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark D

The diameter of the outer black ring of the gauge face is roughly 3.5" diameter, and the hole size in the panel should be 2.875". You should be looking for a gauges with a 631-XXXX part number. The ones from Apex are 631-19110

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Good to know. So far I've only been able to find either 2.5 inch or 2 inch on eBay. Are those phaostron that have the 631-xxxx number?


Edit: Actually found a couple on eBay cheap so they're on their way!

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Timebender

Good to know. So far I've only been able to find either 2.5 inch or 2 inch on eBay. Are those phaostron that have the 631-xxxx number?


Edit: Actually found a couple on eBay cheap so they're on their way!

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Cool, glad you found some. The originals are Phaostron 631 series as well, but the funky 0-1.0 scale version is pretty much impossible to find since it was a US government only part and not something available to the general public. A long time ago we tried to have Phaostron do a run of parts for us but they were not able to due to it being a US Gov only part.

And I found one more today at a local electronics and industrial supply place for super cheap.

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Timebender

And I found one more today at a local electronics and industrial supply place for super cheap.

---

You are lucky! :)
I'm like a donkey. Got 2 inches :) size from ebay

Hello again
Would anyone on this page be willing to do a BTTF parts exchange?
It seems like we are all individually re-inventing the wheel. It might make more sense for each of us to specialize in a few different parts, and then trade (or pay for) with other builders.
I think that it would be a wonderful idea if we could make it work.
( I can build tfc switches with my eyes closed now. :) ( I realize that it is probably the easiest think to build)
Just a thought....
-Charlie

Quote:

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Originally Posted by cpistocco

Hello again
Would anyone on this page be willing to do a BTTF parts exchange?
It seems like we are all individually re-inventing the wheel. It might make more sense for each of us to specialize in a few different parts, and then trade (or pay for) with other builders.
I think that it would be a wonderful idea if we could make it work.
( I can build tfc switches with my eyes closed now. :) ( I realize that it is probably the easiest think to build)
Just a thought....
-Charlie

---

I should add that the only reason that I can build the switches with my eyes closed is because of the kind folks on this forum. :)

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Timebender

Good to know. So far I've only been able to find either 2.5 inch or 2 inch on eBay. Are those phaostron that have the 631-xxxx number?


Edit: Actually found a couple on eBay cheap so they're on their way!

---

Sorry, I sent you down the wrong road originally. I didn't notice the size was wrong.

Steve

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Mark D

The best information that we have is that the extra "oops" holes around the nuclear reactor ring were from a design change in the heat sink spacing sometime during the build. The reactor as we know it now has one heat sink centered on the rear of the reactor with the remaining heat sinks evenly spaced around it. Early on in the build this wasn't the case and the heat sinks were spaced differently.

Something like this:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...2&d=1488834322

The extra holes that still exist line up with the hole spacing on the heat sinks.

I can confirm with some reference photos, but as far as I know this is an A car trait only. The B car only had one set of holes that matched to the A car after the final spacing was decided.

There are a few other "oops" holes in the vents that are there for interesting reasons. There are two sets of triangularly spaced holes on the top of each vent that hold the plastic CO2 dispensing nozzle inside the vent. The nozzle could be mounted in one of two positions to blast CO2 either straight back, or up at an angle.

In the mall parking lot scene when the car returns back cold from the first time travel event with Einstein in the car, you first see the CO2 blast backwards horizontally towards the camera. Then it cuts to a wide shot immediately afterwards and you see the plume of CO2 shooting out at an upward angle.

---

Hi Mark,

I was recently watching the OUTATIME documentary and refering to what you had said about the positions of the oops holes. In my looking at these details I have noticed a few things that are of interest:

• The rear most (center) heatsink seems to have only two vertically aligned screws instead of three as seen on the Jameco heat sinks.
• The heat sinks seem to be very slightly different from each other and slightly offset from each other (not perfectly aligned around the 15" core base equator).
• What size are the screws that hold the heat sinks to the core base?

Many thanks

Quote:

---

Originally Posted by "What The Flux?"

Hi Mark,

I was recently watching the OUTATIME documentary and refering to what you had said about the positions of the oops holes. In my looking at these details I have noticed a few things that are of interest:

• The rear most (center) heatsink seems to have only two vertically aligned screws instead of three as seen on the Jameco heat sinks.
• The heat sinks seem to be very slightly different from each other and slightly offset from each other (not perfectly aligned around the 15" core base equator).
• What size are the screws that hold the heat sinks to the core base?

Many thanks

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The center heat sink is somewhat odd, the 4 center holes are that sideways T shaped pattern vs the more common parallelogram shape that would typically fit a transistor. I'm not sure if that has anything to do with the mounting holes also being different.

The spacing is not perfectly even since the heat sinks were all spaced by hand and I'm sure there was some drill bit wandering in addition to measurements not being plotted out exactly perfect.

The heat sink mounting screws are button head cap screws, either size #10 or #12. I haven't gotten a chance yet to load up the CAD model to check those other holes you asked about, but I can check the screws too.