Covered it.
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Covered it.
I'm at firestone right now and got the lifetime alignment
Replaced one of the upper ball joint. Did not bother to pull the UCA to clean it. Probably should have pulled and cleaned it. Not a hard job to change them. Grind off the 4 heads of the rivet nuts, top side. Use Allen cap 6 mm screws with locking nuts on top.
lol thats exactly what i'm afraid of hahaQuote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
Well, not today but in the last few.
I decided that I'd rather let my car tech fix my A/C. (I provided the R-12).
40$ and 26 oz. of freon later, I've got COLD air again. :nana1:
I have a few more 12oz. cans on the way but, I've got an option on getting a 30 lb. one. I plan on staying, (if possible), with R-12. (If you could get a 30 lb. can, would you)?
Based upon reading other threads I bought some leather conditioner from Leatherique.com. I applied it today.
George
My Optima Red-Top finally died in a fit of hissing and not holding charge. So I've replaced it with a UK Spec battery and cut the battery cables to remove the side terminals and add clamps instead.
Now I just need to level out the padding in the battery compartment so the new battery fits a bit better...
The quality of Optima batteries declined significantly when Johnson Controls purchased the company and relocated the manufacturing facilities to Mexico.Quote:
Originally Posted by jwrayth
-Drove the car 2 miles from storage to home.
-Removed all the foam from the parcel shelf & bulkhead area (still not sure what to replace it with.)
-Completed fitting, drilling & tapping the reinforcement flat stock for my louvre repair (ready for resin!)
-Had a friend/DeLorean/BTTF fan visit so he could see a DeLorean for the first time in person.
-Washed the car, Scotchbrite the hood, used the stainless cleaner Josh recommended (water-based, I like it.)
-Drove around the block.
-Sat in the car & reveled in the awesomeness.
Pulled my inner seals to remove about a 1/4 inch of headliner fabric on both left and right sides that was wicking up water and giving me a shower inside. Learned about the power of wicking the hard way during the NorCal club drive a couple weekends ago where we got caught in the rain for half the day.
Here is the offending material sticking out from the seal before removing it (same amount was on passenger's side):
Attachment 26641
And after:
Attachment 26642
Which cleaner did he recommend? And which Scotchbrite pad did you use? :)Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich_NYS
Diversey Inc.'s Deep Gloss Stainless Steel MaintainerQuote:
Originally Posted by Hokie
I used both Scotch Brite grits from Lowe's that everyone recommends (can't find the number ATM.)
I wasn't aware that there are two that everyone recommends, this is good info. What color are they? Maybe I can figure it out from that. Thanks. BTW, I bought this pad, but I'm thinking it's probably not the right one?Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich_NYS
http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/04/20/2usedyba.jpg
Post #2 in this thread shows the two I've been using: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?53...=blending+padsQuote:
Originally Posted by Hokie
I'm a new owner, so I followed the advice of the experienced guys. :thumbup2:
Finished complete brake job, had seats covered with DMCTEX rich coorrrinthian leather, drove to non-ethenol station and drove home......sweet. Ready for Dayton trip.
Paul Cerny #2691
Kalispell, MT
Got 3937 out on the road for the first time since October when Old Man Winter arrived. All in all it went pretty well. The car started right up and idled fine. I got about 10 miles on it I think, but my speedometer didn't want to join in on the fun so I can't really say for sure.
This was also a shakedown drive for a couple projects I had finished. I rebuilt my front calipers over the winter with new seals, pistons, pads and hardware but had not yet tested it out. Thankfully no neighbor's mailboxes were harmed during the test and the brakes felt great. Nice and grabby compared to the not-so-grabby way they were before.
I also finished replacing the orange fuel hoses I had in my car with replacements from DMCMW. Mine weren't in terrible condition as I didn't see any of the Teflon inside disintegrating, but a good proactive thing to remove. There was also a small inline plastic filter on the return side right at the hardline connection which came out. Not sure it was affecting a great deal but needed to come out regardless. No idea why a PO would have put that in there. The new hoses went on pretty well and no leaks were seen.
Towards the end of my 10 mile drive, I stopped in the gas station right near my house to get some fresh gas. I figured from where my gauge was I would need about 25 litres. Everything seemed great until the pump clicked off at about 27 litres and then comes the mass exodus of fuel from under my car all over everywhere. Crap. Thankfully not full out panic for whatever reason and the attendant helped with some of the absorbent dirt stuff for where the fuel spilled.
The pouring stopped and the wet areas were covered in absorbent and we put the car in neutral and pushed it ahead to an open parking spot not covered in fuel/dirt. I got looking in the fuel pump area and see no hose leak evidence, but the top of the pump area under the boot is full of fuel. I soaked it up with paper towels and kept the hood open for a while letting the breeze help evaporate anything else remaining.
What seems to have happened was the fuel pump assembly was not quite down all the way into it's hole and making a good seal. It's surprising how you can think it is pushed down all the way yet it still went down another half inch or so. I figure the gas pump didn't click itself off and that last two litres came back up through the fuel pump boot area and up and over the tank and down around the frame and accumulator hole. Lesson learned on that project with thankfully no tragic ending.
I had seen/smelled a sign that I should have known better to pick up on. Just a few miles before the gas station there is a nice straight away and I gave it some gas and tested the kickdown feature on the auto trans. I also gave my brakes a good test and pressed them fairly firmly. After the stop sign I could smell a faint bit of gas and normally I have never smelled gas in the cabin while driving. What this likely was was sloshed fuel that came forward when I was braking hard and came up and out a bit at the fuel pump seal. So the warning was there and I didn't act on it. Much like other stuff you see or hear that isn't normal. Best advice sounds like you figure out what caused what you noticed before you find out the hard way.
Oh, and in terms of the stupid DeLorean comments thought... as you can guess, at least 10 different people come rolling by to stare at the car or take photos but it wasn't until about the 5th person that someone finally asked if I needed help. None of the others did. Well, other than the grubby old man inside when I was talking to the attendant that asked if I was in looking for a match. Nice one. Yea, don't help the guy, instead get a cool photo for Instagram instead.
You can guess who did help though. Thanks a lot to Dave S. who replied back right away to my somewhat panicked email asking for advice. Happy Easter to you and your family. :)
With the show season here and like must I like to show the D with the doors open. And we all know how people just jump in. I made this cross beam out of 3/4" pvc pipe primed it gray and cut it to about 40". To affix it I just place one side over a door pin and slightly bow it a bit and slip over the other door pin.
Attachment 26663
That's a very good idea :thumbup2:
Good-looking solution!Quote:
Originally Posted by skipwater
I click the seatbelts in place as if you were seated in the car. Most people don't sit ON the seatbelt when they see it is clicked in place.
Most.....
AH, thank's for the reminder. Have to do the same on mine soon. Not that i got wet yet, but Toby (DMC NW) already said that these fibers are excellent water conductors.Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
They sure are! I haven't tested my fix yet to determine if I'm 100% dry, but it has to have helped.Quote:
Originally Posted by vps3922
Now that's a nice solution! PVC pipe...why didn't I think of that?Quote:
Originally Posted by skipwater
For me, my car is in the shop getting a valve adjustment and the AC compressor replaced (slipping clutch). I happened by the dealership today to knock out a few cars I left behind and the tech left early for a doctors appointment which worked out perfectly for me. He had the valve covers off just begging to be re finished and that's exactly what I did. I had to snap a few pics of the beautifully clean valve train too!
Attachment 26677Attachment 26678Attachment 26679
Put one of the new LCAs on the car today. Not finished bolting it all up yet, what a workout. Finally had to use some wire ties to help hold the LCA and spring up while I pushed the bushing mounting onto the frame. Lots of four letter words were flying. Had to compress the spring as much as I could. I think I will modify my spring compressor to mount onto the shock bolt holes. The bottom of the LCA is tapered so the compressor wants to slide down the LCA.
Not today, but over the weekend I had a chance to get the DeLorean out for a good couple of drives!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n_fpBif1OJc
...though that came off the back of needing a new battery, fitting a new drivers side door lock and removing more left-over wiring from the previous owner.
Thanks for posting! Great video! Always fun to see these cars out being enjoyed. Looks like you had a great day for driving.Quote:
Originally Posted by jwrayth
Couple things:
Scotch Brite *GREY* - grit # is 7446Quote:
Originally Posted by Rich_NYS
David P (below) came up with the nicest solution to this I've seen yet. I like mine because it allows the tube to collapse down into half the length, great for storage - but a HUGE PITA to set up. David's is simple and elegant and while a little more annoying to store, is WAY easier to use and better looking when installed. If we ask him nice I bet he'll share a picture.Quote:
Originally Posted by skipwater
Awesome! :)Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
As for myself, yesterday I was stopped by the driver of a brand-new (still had temporary tags) Lamborghini Aventador while I was out getting lunch. He just wanted to shake hands and take a pic of my car. I should have done the same....
Just to be clear - I didn't invent this technique, I've seen others do it and copied :)Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
What I did is very similar, perhaps identical, to what Skip did:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=LByEwp8p5Rk
Also, very cool story about the Lambo owner. I've been given thumbs up from them, but never stopped!
That is nice I like the key notch so you do not need to bow the pipe:thumbup2:Quote:
Originally Posted by DavidProehl
David, L did the same thing with some chrome pipe I found at AX MAN in the twin cities.
Paul Cerny #2691
Kalispell, MT
Excellent! That would be even better. Harder to cut the notch in, but would look a lot nicer. I spray painted the PVC and am hoping it doesn't crack or scratch too badly. I was recently thinking about that tech day where you helped me with my distributor cap. Hope MT is treating you well.Quote:
Originally Posted by SS Spoiler
I made this so that I could pressure bleed the brakes and clutch on my car :smile:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...8&d=1398221649
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...9&d=1398221674
Nice! I made one of those too when I did my brakes last year. Much cheaper to build one yourself than to buy one of the premade pressure bleeders online. Plus it's fun to build stuff :cool1:
And it makes bleeding brakes super easy. I did it by myself in about an hour.
Thanks!Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark D
I love building stuff too :thumbup:
The toughest part was figuring out what cap to get for the clutch reservoir.
I already used it for the brakes, and it worked beautifully. Not sure if I want to mess with the clutch at all until after DCS - I'm still running Dunmurry hydraulic fluid in the clutch, and I'm afraid that if I flush it and replace with new, I'll end up with a leaky master and slave, and I just don't have the time to deal with that plus everything else that I want to get done on the car before DCS. The clutch currently works great, except when it gets hot out (requiring a double pump to avoid grinding) - I still have the nylon line and it swells when hot.
Besides, Dunmurry fluid and nylon line = more concours points :biggrin:
Made one also, I found a vitamin bottle cap fit the master cylinder.
WOW!!! You need to put one of these stickers on it ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by NightFlyer
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?at...0&d=1398224978
Hell yeah! :headbang:Quote:
Originally Posted by Tillsy
That's sweet - never even occurred to me to try a vitamin bottle cap.Quote:
Originally Posted by SS Spoiler
As far as an automotive cross-reference is concerned, the clutch reservoir cap is from an air-cooled VW brake master cylinder - 27mm.
I removed the passenger side seat today to get ready to install the new fuse box that's on order but I have a non related question on the seat. What are some of the options to deal with all the rust and bad seat adjustment bars?
Attachment 26724Attachment 26725Attachment 26726
Not a lot you can do other than disassemble it (but I'd be very cautious, I've heard warnings that it can be difficult to get the tracks back together), blast or scrub the rust down and paint it. Remove the carpets and shampoo them.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC81
Thanks for the info Jon , I was thinking the tracks were no longer available but they are and at a good price. It looks like the bars will need to be fabricated and I'll be set. Has any one made new & improved seat bars to get some ideas? ThanksQuote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
We have been told before (I think by Dave at DMCMW) that fabricating those bars is much easier said than done. I think the last time this came up he just advised cleaning and painting. Maybe even powder coat, that's what I would do personally.Quote:
Originally Posted by DMC81