Farrar's car blog

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Originally Posted by Farrar

Your carb and manifold would be steaming hot after that 90-minute drive! I am not sure I could operate on anything that hot... usually, I let the engine sit overnight if I am to work on it..

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I think that was Steve's way of hinting to spend the night ;-)

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Originally Posted by Farrar

Bill doesn't like me anymore... I might have to room with someone else anyway.

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Dang, we just added the fourth member to the pack or you colud have joined us.

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Originally Posted by sean

I think that was Steve's way of hinting to spend the night ;-)

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Maybe he's heard tell of my famous cooking skills!

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Originally Posted by sean

Dang, we just added the fourth member to the pack or you colud have joined us.

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Doesn't matter.

I put the cover back on the car. I was going to check and see if the new blower motor switch works... but why bother? I'm not going anywhere, and even if I were I have no a/c. If I want hot air blowing in my face, I can just roll down the windows -- assuming they haven't already broken when I wasn't using them.

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Originally Posted by sean

I think that was Steve's way of hinting to spend the night ;-)




Dang, we just added the fourth member to the pack or you colud have joined us.

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Nah. I don't mind getting my hands burned. I've taken my hot manifold off in parking lots before and it's no big deal to me.

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Originally Posted by stevedmc

Nah. I don't mind getting my hands burned. I've taken my hot manifold off in parking lots before and it's no big deal to me.

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That's good, because the guest bedroom is currently taken up with other stuff. No one could sleep in there!

Monday and Wednesday nights are out.

I can only put one video in each message, so here's the first one of five made this morning/afternoon.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=QAQZXrXi3W8

Here's the second video of five made this morning/afternoon.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wop7n6j84ec

Here's the third video of five made this morning/afternoon.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DXKQhggqGeE

Here's the fourth video of five made this morning/afternoon.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dDa8FG7nN2Y

Here's the fifth and final video made this morning/afternoon.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2EzoiQVibwc

Getting back to your no start from switch issue. Do a continuity check of the W/R wire between the ignition switch connector and the relay socket. You said, when you connected your meter to ground and either W/R wire you got nothing. One of the W/R wires in the socket goes to the starter so you shouldn't see anything on one wire. But the other W/R wire is from the Ignition switch. You should have seen 12V with the key in the start position. Also, the brown wire in the socket should be connected to the Blower fan breaker. I believe this was part of a service bulletin. http://www.dmcnews.com/bulletins/ST-05-2.82.html If your breaker has been replaced it may have ring terminals now. disconnect one side of the Breaker then check to see which wires are hot with the key ON. Make sure the jumper is connected the hot side.

+1 Dennis

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FYI, the yellow/white (actually W/Y) wire you mentioned going to a coil terminal should go to the Neutral Switch -- The yellow/white (W/Y) on the coil terminal goes to the Ballast Resistors....

The Blue wire is probably a replacement from the ignition switch (or to the solenoid...not enough info...)
If Dennis' checks don't clear it up, see if the Blue wire has 12V with the key at "Start".
If not,pull the main coil wire and make certain it is in neutral for Safety. Then jump 12V to the each of the remaining wires you mentioned earlier to find which energizes the solenoid...try the W/R ones first.
It should be easy from there on....

Fan Speed Breaker to 30 (Brown).
Neutral Safety to 85 (W/Y).
Ignition Switch to 86 (W/R, ?Blue? )
Starter Solenoid to 87 (W/R, ?Blue?)

For what it's worth. I have found a relay ground wire to be bad. It read about 200 ohms from the pin to a real ground. I inspected the crimps and never found why it was bad. So I just made up a new relay ground buss for that bank of relays.

I only found it by measuring the ground pin with an ohm meter to the common ground point.

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Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster

For what it's worth. I have found a relay ground wire to be bad. It read about 200 ohms from the pin to a real ground. I inspected the crimps and never found why it was bad. So I just made up a new relay ground buss for that bank of relays.

I only found it by measuring the ground pin with an ohm meter to the common ground point.

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Interesting. In this case the Inhibit Relay, is an isolated ground circuit thru the neutral safety switch to ground. But I can see your point in checking resistance.

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Originally Posted by DMC5180

Interesting. In this case the Inhibit Relay, is an isolated ground circuit thru the neutral safety switch to ground. But I can see your point in checking resistance.

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This bad ground was on the cooling fan relay. My solid state relay still worked but that would have not worked with a mechanical relay. I never liked those double wires crimped into the terminals so my new harness has one wire crimps into a large junction. Should do the top bank that way someday.

Daisy chaining grounds like that certainly creates lots of potential week links. I was surprised to see they had done it like that instead of a Cluster bundle found in several other locations of the harness. The (A/C panel , lambda, and Heated RW Timer) are chained together.