Location: Woodstock, GA
Posts: 279
My VIN: 16893
I'm soon going to be swapping out my binnacle with one of Stephen's replacements and I wondered if there was anything else I should consider doin vehicle I've got it apart? Should I replace the lights in the dash, perhaps go to LEDs? If I swap to LEDs, which bulbs should I swap and what replacement bulbs should I use? I've also considered putting in the 140MPH speedo.
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,326
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Personally not a huge fan of the LEDs. If nothing else pull all the bulbs from the sockets and clean the terminals and/or replace the bulbs.Originally Posted by RammJaeger
Carefully clean the inside of the lens and remove the dead bugs.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: Orlando, FL
Posts: 438
My VIN: 2109
Club(s): (DCF)
Definitely replace the all bulbs while you have it out, especially if you don't know the last time they were replaced.
If you want to go LEDs (exception: battery bulb must remain incandescent), you can check my blog (link in my signature) for the type of bulbs to use. Shop around, there are more inexpensive alternatives today.
Personal Blog: DeLorean Ownership & Upkeep (Yeah, it hasn't been updated in a while, but some good stuff there if you look.)
->Last posting:"Smooth shifting on a 30+ year old car."
->Most read posting:"Going 100% LEDs on your car is a good idea, and more feasible than ever."
Posts: 4,781
My VIN: Banged your VIN'S mom
I'm not a big fan of the socket LED's either. You lose the dimmer/rheostat function for the dash. You might want to check out what I did, keeps the stock appearance if you want, and the controller is hidden out of sight.
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?89...t=illumination
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,581
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
At the very least you change all of the bulbs. Ordinary incandescent are the way to go. Polish the lense. Repair any broken plastic posts. Be VERY careful with the flexible PCB's. Before closing everything up test all functions, it is very easy to have a bad connection on the PCB's and then things don't work. The 140 speedo is nice but really, how often will you be exceeding 85 MPH and if you do you can use a GPS.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Winston-Salem or Cullowhee, NC
Posts: 127
My VIN: 2506
Good time to do a lambda counter delete with a solid speedo cable. Look at the electronic cluster that includes the door chime and make sure its all snug (hangs on a bracket that can come off). Mine is dangling and I plan to fix it. Look for the 3" (or so) hole in the body upper left of the footwell, may need some insulation.
Check the back of your tachometer for anomalies. Mine has some popped-off resistors and I have a subtle false reading.
If you convert to LEDs I highly recommend finding "warm white" for the backlighting. Looks stock, but modern.
Location: Woodstock, GA
Posts: 279
My VIN: 16893
What is the downside to the Lamda counter delete? What do you lose?
Location: Sunfield, Michigan, USA
Posts: 2,444
My VIN: 1798
Just the lambda counter, and thus the lambda warning/reminder light function on the dash. The lambda counter merely triggers the dash reminder/warning light to turn on ever 30,000 miles, reminding you to change your oxygen (O2) sensor.
Other than that, nothing - other than concours-level originality of course.
Location: Winston-Salem or Cullowhee, NC
Posts: 127
My VIN: 2506
The upside is fewer moving parts and smoother speedo action. Can solve a bouncy speedo issue. It can also get rid of noise that worn cables/counter may generate.
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