FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
Results 1 to 3 of 3

Thread: Door Seal Choices?

  1. #1
    Senior Member whocruiser's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  South Florida

    Posts:    243

    My VIN:    1150

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Door Seal Choices?

    Thinking of replacing the door seals on VIN 1150 soon and was wondering what the current consensus was here on the forum on which vendors' offerings are the best, and/or cheapest, and/or easiest to install, or various combinations of the above? I did try a search, but couldn't find anything recent on "The State Of The Seals"...

  2. #2
    EFI'd dn010's Avatar
    Join Date:  Jul 2011

    Location:  Florida: Pinellas County

    Posts:    2,110

    My VIN:    5003 Never placed Concourse

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    I can't tell you who has the best or cheapest or easiest to install but I can tell you about my experience and it might help you determine what to get.

    I have DPI seals, I got them because they came with (or were supposed to come with) the rear buffer seals for the louvers/rear quarters, it also came with the marker light seals, trunk seal as well as the rubber strip that is screwed to the bottom of the door. My seal set unfortunately was shipped without the buffer seals but I already let Josh know and hopefully it is eventually rectified.

    DPI Seals-

    Pros:
    -The inner door seal "bulbs" are slightly larger/taller so it is a bit harder to close the doors now but I think they seal better.
    -The "U" shape channel that goes over the fiberglass lip around the door opening has one of the "U" leg longer than the other so it covers up where my bolster is cracked from the old seal.

    Cons:
    -The outer door seals did not seem long enough to reach from the top of the door to the bottom so I had to stretch them while gluing them to get them to reach.
    -The inner door seal has a white paste inside the "U" channel that is a bit messy and will be all over the place when it comes time to remove the seal.
    -The longer "U" leg as described above will buckle or bow out around sharp curves and this will catch the interior of the door as it is closing.

    General info - the inner door seals need to be trimmed once installed as they ship a bit longer than needed but this is probably the same case with anyone's seals.
    -The outer door seals are not pre-cut to fit over the door strut mount or door pin areas etc. Also they do not have adhesive so you'll need to deal with that too.

    EDIT - I guess I should add my thoughts/opinion:
    I like the seals, I haven't had experience with them while driving in a torrential Florida downpour yet but the door seal has not leaked while sitting out in the rain or while washing the car. The only turnoff I have is the paste inside the inner door seals. It isn't so much of a problem now but should I ever need to remove them I'm expecting a mess.
    Last edited by dn010; 02-10-2016 at 09:27 AM.
    -----Dan B.

  3. #3
    President, DeLorean Industries
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  CLE/PHX

    Posts:    2,592

    My VIN:    5646,5080, 5880, 10234, 3639, 2518, 10586, 1538

    You are first on the list once the next extrusion of the louvre supports is completed.

    Few notes on our seal kits:

    Outer seals should be two inches longer than required. If not always let us know. We do not cut these to match around the striker boxes etc due to every car being a little different. This gives the ability to contour and fit the seal appropriately to your body lines.

    Inner seals do have the adhesive for a number of reasons including head liner wick issues. As noted the seals ship with an extended inner edge for those who have damaged B pillar sections etc to provide a better cosmetic look. This is easily removed prior to install along the seam with a razor blade.

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •