"While you're in there" list for pulling the engine/transmission?

[jawn101]

I've been growing increasingly paranoid about the state of my transmission. It runs fine, but shifts a little strangely in and out of 2nd gear. I know there is a known issue with the roll pin in 2nd and it's all I can think about when I go into that gear. Call me crazy but my peace of mind may be worth pulling the lump.

I am pretty sure the whole engine will have to come out to get at the transmission (if I'm wrong here, let me know) and I've compiled this list of "while you're in there" tasks so I can start getting an idea of what the plan will cost me.

- Split transmission halves (this will require all new seals)
- Replace coupler with Toby's
- New (improved?) 2nd gear roll pin
- Torque bolts holding 5th gear on (no issues yet but again, peace of mind)
- Replace output shaft seals and O-ring
- Replace flanges/install stainless sleeves
- Replace flywheel main seal
- New clutch (believe mine to be in great shape and possibly new, but better safe)
- Adjust linkage (already have all new pivot bolts and bushings in stock)
- Replace cat heat shield
- Replace heater hoses with silicone
- Replace hot water valve
- Rebuild drive shafts
- Clean/degrease engine and transmission
- New mounts (Transmission and engine)

I already have a stainless clutch line installed, stainless fuel hoses... What else am I missing?

I've also never pulled an engine before. I know I'll have to find someone to lend me (or buy) a cherry picker and a stand, but when I enlist the local guys to help - how huge a job is it?

[opethmike]

You do NOT have to pull the whole lump to drop the transmission. You will need to have the car approximately two feet in the air to get the transmission out from under it.

[Nicholas R]

The bulletproof coupler seems a little excessive unless you plan on increasing the horsepower exponentially. Not to try to talk you out of it but it may be a little overkill.

[opethmike]

Also, I believe that the transmission mounts are no longer available.

[Nicholas R]

Also, I believe that the transmission mounts are no longer available.

I believe the rubber bushings are still available, its just NOS mounting brackets that you cant get anymore. Josh at DPI does sell stainless ones though.

[jawn101]

You do NOT have to pull the whole lump to drop the transmission. You will need to have the car approximately two feet in the air to get the transmission out from under it.

Great news! I just have to find a way to get it that high now

The bulletproof coupler seems a little excessive unless you plan on increasing the horsepower exponentially. Not to try to talk you out of it but it may be a little overkill.

Also great info. I just figured since I was in there it would be worth doing, but you're right - it is 200 bucks. I don't plan on changing the HP at all; stock PRV all the way for me.

Also, I believe that the transmission mounts are no longer available.

Yeah, but the rubber is - which is all I really wanted to get You know, while I'm in there

[vwdmc16]

With all my experience pulling transmissions, just about every time i wish i had pulled the engine and trans together rather than squirming around under the car with a 140lb transmission above my head as i swear the shit out of it because the input shaft wont go in the clutch disc splines, but yes sometimes the clutch cooperates and the parts just fall together.

ive never pulled just the trans in a delorean, just the engine and trans together and it was pretty easy overall. besides we'll wish we had it all out when it came time to do the cat heat shield or the hoses unless you want to remove the intake again. this would definitely be atleast a 2 or 3 weekend project, but that is what winter projects are for!

i can lend you my engine stand but i dont own a lift, see if you can borrow a nice one or you may have to buy one.

[jawn101]

With all my experience pulling transmissions, just about every time i wish i had pulled the engine and trans together rather than squirming around under the car with a 140lb transmission above my head as i swear the shit out of it because the input shaft wont go in the clutch disc splines, but yes sometimes the clutch cooperates and the parts just fall together.

ive never pulled just the trans in a delorean, just the engine and trans together and it was pretty easy overall. besides we'll wish we had it all out when it came time to do the cat heat shield or the hoses unless you want to remove the intake again. this would definitely be atleast a 2 or 3 weekend project, but that is what winter projects are for!

i can lend you my engine stand but i dont own a lift, see if you can borrow a nice one or you may have to buy one.

I will check around for a cherry picker and see what I can find is it something we can do at my place or is it better done at EGR?

[David T]

Unless the mounts are bad they do not need to be replaced. If one is cracked it can be welded, the rubber generally doesn't go bad.
The coupler is overkill on a stock PRV
Definitely replace the roll pins
Locktite and torque the nuts on the ends of the shafts
If the output seals are not leaking they do not have to be replaced and if they do in future it is easy enough to do with the transmission in the car.
If the flywheel seal is not leaking don't mess with it.
Evaluation of the condition of the clutch and flywheel will determine what needs to be done. Minimum would be replacing the bearings.
Definitely go over the shift linkage replacing any worn parts and finely adjust the linkage after lubricating everything.
The half-shafts don't get "rebuilt". You just disassemble, clean, relubricate, assemble, and replace the C/V boots.
The heat shield is replaced if damaged.
If you are not replacing every coolant hose you do not have to replace any unless they are damaged or cracking.
If the heater valve is working and not leaking it does not have to be replaced
Many of these external parts can be replaced if and when necessary.
One part that is easier to replace when the transmission is out is the clutch slave but even that can be replaced with the transmission in place.
Remember to drain all of the oil out BEFORE you pull the transmission.
David Teitelbaum

[jawn101]

Unless the mounts are bad they do not need to be replaced. If one is cracked it can be welded, the rubber generally doesn't go bad.
The coupler is overkill on a stock PRV
Definitely replace the roll pins
Locktite and torque the nuts on the ends of the shafts
If the output seals are not leaking they do not have to be replaced and if they do in future it is easy enough to do with the transmission in the car.
If the flywheel seal is not leaking don't mess with it.
Evaluation of the condition of the clutch and flywheel will determine what needs to be done. Minimum would be replacing the bearings.
Definitely go over the shift linkage replacing any worn parts and finely adjust the linkage after lubricating everything.
The half-shafts don't get "rebuilt". You just disassemble, clean, relubricate, assemble, and replace the C/V boots.
The heat shield is replaced if damaged.
If you are not replacing every coolant hose you do not have to replace any unless they are damaged or cracking.
If the heater valve is working and not leaking it does not have to be replaced
Many of these external parts can be replaced if and when necessary.
One part that is easier to replace when the transmission is out is the clutch slave but even that can be replaced with the transmission in place.
Remember to drain all of the oil out BEFORE you pull the transmission.
David Teitelbaum

David -

Thanks so much for taking the time to hit each point. My responses:
- Mounts aren't bad. I just figured it might be a good idea.
- Coupler is off the table, I've had too many people (including DPNW) say it probably wasn't needed for my application
- Roll pins and shaft end nuts - no question, 100% agreement
- Output seals are leaking for sure
- Flywheel seal also appears to be leaking
- The pilot bearing is in the clutch kit I was going to get, I figure the clutch isn't expensive enough to justify skipping at this point
- Shift linkage: 100% agreed. I've had the parts forever but that part of the car is very hard for me to reach as it's in the dead center and my jack doesn't get the car quite high enough for me to get under that far.
- Half shafts - that's what I meant, de-greasing, re-packing and re-booting
- Heater control valve and hoses do leak periodically, so that's a quick and easy replacement if the engine's out
- Cat heat shield is completely obliterated on my car. It's just plain gone. I don't know where to find a new one, do you have a source?

Thanks again,
Jon