Replacing clutch slave

[SBL]

After replacing the clutch line to a new SS one, it looks like the slave leaks. It is a slow leak, but enough that I have to top off the reservoir each time I drive. In looking at this from the top of the engine, it seems like there is a lot of stuff to remove first. Can the slave be replaced from under the car?

As a second question, could a really compulsive re-bleeding stop a leak?

[Cory W]

I've replaced a couple of slave cylinders in various cars using a combination of above-and undercar work. Nothing needs to be removed, but you need to be cautious you don't pull anything apart while working in the area. (My first time I pulled a wire off the resistor, then wondered why it wouldn't start)

Some notes based on experience:
Back the car up on ramps before you start. Stable, plenty of work room. Place some heavy cardboard over the engine and use a stepstool or ladder to climb up and lean over/lay on the engine to work from above. This also helps make bleeding easier. Be mindful of what's under you.

I have found an 18-24" pry bar helps pull back the fork so you can place the pin the slave cylinder pushes on in its proper position.

Unless it's recent, I'd consider getting the master cylinder at the same time, since it will likely follow within the next three months.

It's highly unlikely a bleed will stop a leak. Replacement is your best option, and will make that system practically bulletproof. Remember to flush the system every two years.

[micmak]

I've replaced a couple of slave cylinders in various cars using a combination of above-and undercar work. Nothing needs to be removed, but you need to be cautious you don't pull anything apart while working in the area. (My first time I pulled a wire off the resistor, then wondered why it wouldn't start)

Some notes based on experience:
Back the car up on ramps before you start. Stable, plenty of work room. Place some heavy cardboard over the engine and use a stepstool or ladder to climb up and lean over/lay on the engine to work from above. This also helps make bleeding easier. Be mindful of what's under you.

I have found an 18-24" pry bar helps pull back the fork so you can place the pin the slave cylinder pushes on in its proper position.

Unless it's recent, I'd consider getting the master cylinder at the same time, since it will likely follow within the next three months.

It's highly unlikely a bleed will stop a leak. Replacement is your best option, and will make that system practically bulletproof. Remember to flush the system every two years.

+1! Cory and I did mine last year. One thing to also help is to remove the engine cover. You can get further in over the engine with it removed. It is easy enough to get the old slave out, but it can be a bitch to get the new one into position. The pry bar was a must for us doing my car. Disconnecting and reconnecting the last piece of the line, part #:106773, from the bulkhead connector to the slave can be frustrating too. Take your time and be sure you are not cross threading the nut onto the slave or the bulkhead connector. We ended up removing part #:106773 and getting a new piece fabricated locally. Patience, patience, patience will determine if you will need to replace that part too or reuse the existing one!
And while I am on the subject, Vendors, why don’t you make a SS lline that goes from the master cylinder right back to the slave? Why have the bulkhead connector about a foot or so before the slave? Why not ONE piece from the master to the slave?

......Mike......

[Chris Burns]

My mechanic replaced a slave cylinder on a D back in 2010. He said it was a pain to do. This is a good thread for me, just in case if my D ends up being a 5 speed. So it can be replaced in your driveway or garage?

[micmak]

My mechanic replaced a slave cylinder on a D back in 2010. He said it was a pain to do. This is a good thread for me, just in case if my D ends up being a 5 speed. So it can be replaced in your driveway or garage?

Yep, exactly as Cory described above. A garage is probably easier in case you run out of time and have to return the next day. At least you can literally walk away and leave everything as it is in a garage – in a driveway it’s a bit different. It’s a two person job, ideally. Back it up onto ramps. Have one guy underneath the bell housing, and one guy climbs up a step ladder, onto the engine and lays on top of the engine on cardboard or a piece of old carpeting or whatever. Must surely look ridiculous if you have peering neighbors, but who cares!!!!!

......Mike......

[outatym2001]

You can read my helpful advice on replacing the clutch slave cylinder in this thread below.
My post is number 11.
Other people have different ideas about the removal. If you don’t have a lift then you are stuck laying on top of the engine with the engine cover removed.

Time for a new clutch or something else
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?26...something-else

[micmak]

I never realized until now that there are two threads on the go at the same time which are discussing basically the same thing. Mods, can this thread be merged or otherwise added to the "Clutch Master/Slave Recommendations?" thread? Seems kinda silly to have two conversations about the same thing happening at the same time.....

Just askin'!

......Mike......

[SBL]

I am not suer that I see a consensus here. Let me be sure. First, it IS possible to rplace the slave without removing the intake. You will need to crawl on top of the engine, and, its best to remove the engine cover. Is that correct?

There was some discussion involving working from beneath the car, but noting that the rear had to be up on ramps. Was the implication here that it could be done virtually exclusively from underneath?

Sorry to ask again, but I need to know what the tried and true options are. I usually do things by myself, but it sounds like this could be a 2 person job. I don't want to enlist help and then not know what to do, or get stranded at their house.

[Bitsyncmaster]

As long as a bolt does not break, I don't see a reason not to remove the intake. It's no problem doing the slave with the intake off and only adds 30 to 60 min. of time.

So you can see if the four bolts will come off that hold the intake before you attempt your slave. I go by feel to know if the bolt is going to break or not so I don't know how to tell you to check those four bolts.

[outatym2001]

A mechanical lift is really ideal but as I don’t have one I used a compact floor jack, and two jack stands. It’s required to also have several different lengths of lumber to put in between the jack stands and steel frame or fiberglass body. I also own two ramps in case I don’t feel like using the floor jack and stands.
My thread.
Proper use of the floor jack and jack stands on the front and rear of the DeLorean.
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?14...f-the-DeLorean.

I did the removal and install of the slave cylinder and the bleeding process while laying on the engine with the engine cover removed simply because I don’t have a mechanical lift.
I only removed the engine cover and there is no need to remove anything else in the engine compartment.

I installed the new stainless steel braided clutch fluid line by raising the driver side only and placing the body on two jack stands at the forward and rear jack lifting points.

With the drivers side only on the jack stands I started the install of the clutch master cylinder.
I connected the fluid line to the master cylinder through the access panel in the trunk where the clutch fluid reservoir is. The access panel has to be removed (Fuel Filler Closing Panel 106002).

With an assistant everything goes quicker but it can done alone it just takes a lot longer.