Test the cold start valve?

[dn010]

I appreciate it guys! I am about to go test it right now to see what happens. My car is sitting in a nice cool garage (its probably 90+ out right now) so it should be all set to test. I'll let you know the outcome. Thanks again!

[dn010]

I finally had a chance to look at my cold start situation (been very sick since Saturday!). It appears that when I bench test my cold start valve, it works fine. But when I plug it in and jump the TTS, nothing! I'm in the process of going through some archives to figure out what is the deal... I'd also like to add that while tracing the wiring through the wiring diagram, I'm looking at #143-CSV and 147 which says is the thermal time contact. It shows there is a white/red wire and blue/black coming from the TTS but my car has blue/yellow and blue/black from the thermo-time switch... Am I looking at the wrong thing?? Any suggestions in the mean time? Thanks for any & all help!

[Farrar]

Might be time to test the thermo-time switch:

Remove the plug from the cold start valve and bridge the contacts with a test light or voltmeter. The test must be done with a cold engine (coolant below 95°F). Remove the coil wire from the center of the distributor cap and connect it to a good ground. Operate the starter for ten seconds. Depending on the coolant temperature, the bulb should light or the voltmeter register for a period of between 3 and 10 seconds and then cease to light or register. If the circuit is not broken in ten seconds, your thermo-time switch is bad.

If the bulb doesn't light or the voltmeter register at all, check that there is voltage supplied to the switch. If there is no voltage, check your fuel pump ("RPM") relay.

Farrar

[dn010]

I changed start inhibit relay, and fuel relays. Took the RPM relay out and contacts are good, insides look fine. The frequancy valve works, and the car will start - fuel pump will run. Not sure what else to test - the starter is on the same wire as the thermo-time switch according to the diagram... I'm having a difficult time because the diagram shows a blue/black wire and white/red coming from the tts while I have blue/yellow and blue/black... I'd imagine that the w/r is the same as the b/y....

[Farrar]

Not sure what else to test

Have you tested the Thermo-Time Switch? I assumed not, which is why I posted the above how-to.

Glad you're feeling better.

Farrar

[Bitsyncmaster]

I changed start inhibit relay, and fuel relays. Took the RPM relay out and contacts are good, insides look fine. The frequancy valve works, and the car will start - fuel pump will run. Not sure what else to test - the starter is on the same wire as the thermo-time switch according to the diagram... I'm having a difficult time because the diagram shows a blue/black wire and white/red coming from the tts while I have blue/yellow and blue/black... I'd imagine that the w/r is the same as the b/y....

I found the same problems with my car's wiring. It was not done as shown on the schematic but it works logically the same. I ended up just jumpering the white/red and blue/yellow wires anyway because I have the starter without the "bypass" connector.

[dn010]

I did test the switch but there was no voltage coming from the wires, that's why I moved onto the relays. I meant, I'm not sure what else to test on the RPM relay. I do have an aftermarket starter but I have the white / red attached to the same post as the blue / yellow on it. I cleaned up the bulkhead connectors, I think now I'm going to start cutting some electrical tape off wires!

[Farrar]

Does the green wire running to the fuel pump relay socket have voltage when the key is on?

Farrar

[dn010]

Yes, +12.

[Farrar]

OK, this means the pump runs when you bypass the relay, correct?

Farrar