Already mentioned in this thread is lower output due to a
slipping alternator drive belt. Not mentioned as a cause of belt slippage is an incorrect drive belt. Use a known-good belt that meets specs. A Gates 7495 is one such belt.
Citations below, slightly edited, are taken from
the Knowlegebase article about alternators from DMC Classic - including how to prove belt tension is adequate (use a wrench):
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"4 - Set the correct belt tension. Nominally the belt should be tight enough that the belt will deflect 1/2 inch when pressing with your finger. A better indication is to try to turn the alternator main shaft clockwise with a wrench. You should see the belt turn the engine slightly rather than slip at the alternator pulley. Too tight is better than too loose. A loose belt will slip under load and greatly diminish the output of the alternator just when you need it the most.
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The # 1 Reason for Premature Alternator Failure Including "No Output" Is a Slipping V-Belt!
In the good old days when all cars needed was a 40-60 amp alternator, slipping belts were not a common problem. Now that we need 100 amps and up, it has become a real issue. The higher the amperage, the more resistance an alternator has, and it takes more power to turn the pulley. Therefore the belt has to be tighter to prevent slippage. Most of the time the alternator belt doesn?t make a squealing noise when slipping.
Signs of belt slipping:
Little or no output, discharged battery
Alternator pulley extremely hot and starting to discolor
Belt sticking to pulley or belt glazed or cracked
Rust on alternator shaft
Belt dust collecting on fan and front alternator housing
Belt riding too deep in pulley groove
Bearing noise