Finally finished recovering my forward headliner, Need to rivet in new sunvisor mounts in the roof before installing though. Its been nearly a year since ive had headliners, should be nice to have them back.
Location: sacramento
Posts: 1,418
My VIN: 1768
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Finally finished recovering my forward headliner, Need to rivet in new sunvisor mounts in the roof before installing though. Its been nearly a year since ive had headliners, should be nice to have them back.
Location: Atlanta OTP GA
Posts: 7,085
My VIN: 2743
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCH) (DCUK) (DOC-UK)
Glad that week is over! I am convinced my car came with a 39900 mile warranty, because everything went to sh*t after that rolled around.
Started with a failed diode in the cooling fan circuit that left me stranded.
Got that fixed and went to the movies, where I got my rear passenger quarter panel badly scratched or maybe keyed.
Finally got my tires changed out. Only 4000 miles on the fronts and this is what they looked like, bottoms flat on the floor. Not sure of the alignment was off or not.
Badly, badly toed in, but tracked true down the road. Ordered a pair of Toyo Extensa A/S for the fronts putting off the rears for a little while. But when I got to the tire shop, they had a 1-day Atlanta Braves special of $144 off a set of 4. The only brand they had in-stock were the Mastercraft Avengers (a.k.a. Coppers), but as it was essentially BOGO on the rears I went for it. I have no issues with non-matching patterns front and back. (The tire store also called me to tell me I need new front pads, but apologetically then told me they couldn’t find them anywhere. I had forgotten I had a set in my toolbag, which I had just taken out of the car that morning to reduce “temptation”. Damn. Would have been the perfect time to fit them obviously)
So, in reference to one of the other threads, I now have Made in Japan Toyos on the front with a 0413 date code, and Made in Mexico Mastercrafts (aka Coopers) with a 2012 date code, on the rear (the old rears had 2000 and 2003 date code, so they were well due to be changed). These tires will age out before they wear out, I suspect (and yes, I got an alignment also). The one good point of the week was how quiet and soft new rubber is.
Week was looking up at last.
Until my auto-box GC failed on the way home from the tire store. Spent the weekend chasing shadows, mostly self inflicted. Damn and Blast.
As I pulled into my driveway, coming back from the tire store, it stopped like this:
![]()
Dermot
VIN 2743, B/A, Frame 2227, engine 2320
I don't always drive cars, but when I do, I prefer DeLoreans
http://www.will-to-live.org
No-one is to stone anyone, even, and I want to make this absolutely clear, even if they do say "carburetor"
Location: Sunfield, Michigan, USA
Posts: 2,444
My VIN: 1798
WOW - That totally sucks! I had a car vandalized once and know how it feels. The police said that they didn't have the resources/time to investigate it and that I should just file a claim with my insurance. That wasn't acceptable to me though, so I did my own investigation, lifted prints from the car, had a friend in the DA's office run the prints through the database, found the person that did it, turned my evidence over to the police, had the person that did it arrested, and ended up being paid double the repair costs by that person to avoid them having to serve a stint in jail.
Holy crap - I can't believe that only 4,000 miles wore out the tread like it did! What brand/model tires were those?
BTW - Thanks for your nod to my tire thread, I appreciate it
Hope that your luck starts changing for the better soon!
Maybe that new stereo system that you're planning will help to put a smile back on your face![]()
Location: sacramento
Posts: 1,418
My VIN: 1768
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Drove to work in the D today as my rebuilt engine still isnt back in my daily toyota, Survived the 106' heat again but half way home the temp was just about at 220' so I had to go without A/C to get the needled back between the second mark and 220'.
Time for a better Radiator.
Location: Atlanta OTP GA
Posts: 7,085
My VIN: 2743
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCH) (DCUK) (DOC-UK)
They were Uniroyal somethingorothers. But I don't think the brand had anything to do with it.
The front axle set-up was like /-------\ with the inside of the tires being scrubbed along the ground, rather than rolling on it
A high end Michelin would have met the same fate.
Dermot
VIN 2743, B/A, Frame 2227, engine 2320
I don't always drive cars, but when I do, I prefer DeLoreans
http://www.will-to-live.org
No-one is to stone anyone, even, and I want to make this absolutely clear, even if they do say "carburetor"
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Took some photos of the work I did last night.
Got as far as this:
SANY0848.jpg
Sheet metal screws. Stubby flathead screwdriver works fine on these as long as I remove the relay opposite. For the first time since I owned the car, all four mounting holes are being used. (Previously just had one on each bank.)
SANY0850.jpg
As Capt. Picard would say: There! Are! Four! Lights!
SANY0852.jpg
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Sunfield, Michigan, USA
Posts: 2,444
My VIN: 1798
Location: Purmerend, Netherlands
Posts: 747
My VIN: 06513
Club(s): (DCN)
+1 on your remark concerning wear-out on tires if wheels are not aligned properly.
My tires now have some 26k Miles on them and are about 50%.
It pays off if you have them re-aligned every couple of years.
Not only because of wear of parts like ball joints, shocks etc, but also because you may accidently hit something (kerb?) causing mis-alignment over time.
Man, did you do some saving of bad occasions and had them paid in one?
Welmoed
Black D 1981-11 sold
Toyota Prius III 2009-07 (sold)
Mazda MX-30 (BEV) 2020-09