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Thread: What have you done to your DeLorean today?

  1. #2811
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2013

    Location:  Illinois

    Posts:    2,514

    My VIN:    11408

    Club(s):   (ADOA)

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack View Post
    Great work! While you are at it I would recommend replacing the caliper half bolts. For the rears they are (8 ) 3/8-24 X 2-1/4 (both calipers). For the fronts the bolts are (4) 3/8-24 X 2-1/4 and (4) 7/16-20 X 2-1/4 (both calipers)

    Supercharged 5.3L LS4 / Porsche 6spd 522 whp

  2. #2812
    Banned
    Join Date:  Sep 2011

    Location:  Sunfield, Michigan, USA

    Posts:    2,444

    My VIN:    1798

    Quote Originally Posted by DavidProehl View Post
    Been there. That is a load of fun. If your calipers have never been rebuilt you'll notice a huge improvement.
    I too have done the deed. Rebuilt all of them, replaced all the soft lines, replaced the master cylinder, cleaned the reservoir, and installed with new pads. Did it all in about 20 hours of non-stop work. Totally worth it - brakes better than a new car

  3. #2813
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Jun 2011

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    My VIN:    3937

    Quote Originally Posted by Jack View Post
    Nice Jack. Are you following any sort of how-to on this? Reason I ask is all the rebuild parts are waiting on me to get it done. Would be mighty nice to have a cheat sheet to glance at while I'm at it. I'm doing fronts though and these might be rears, correct?


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

  4. #2814
    LS Swapper Josh's Avatar
    Join Date:  Mar 2013

    Location:  Illinois

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Nice Jack. Are you following any sort of how-to on this? Reason I ask is all the rebuild parts are waiting on me to get it done. Would be mighty nice to have a cheat sheet to glance at while I'm at it. I'm doing fronts though and these might be rears, correct?
    There is a how to PDF in the forum. However I did not find it very good. FOr example it lists all metric wrenches/sockets to be used when 75% of the bolts are Imperial. LOL

    I recently rebuilt my entire brake system (the only thing existing is the brake pedal), feel free to PM me Jonathan.

    Supercharged 5.3L LS4 / Porsche 6spd 522 whp

  5. #2815
    Senior Member Jack's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    237

    My VIN:    10110

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Jonathan View Post
    Nice Jack. Are you following any sort of how-to on this? Reason I ask is all the rebuild parts are waiting on me to get it done. Would be mighty nice to have a cheat sheet to glance at while I'm at it. I'm doing fronts though and these might be rears, correct?
    Yes they are rears.
    I'm getting a rebuild kit from DAP.
    I just soaked it all in a bucket of mean green.
    Then brushed all the brake dust and grease away.
    Followed by a 2 day soak in Apple Cider Vinegar to remove the rust.
    Then rinsed in a bath of baking soda water to Neutralize the acid.
    Will be buying caliper paint from store tomorrow, in a can if they have it.
    Then baking the calipers in the oven to help the paint set.
    I'm not one that paints them for looks, but as you can see after 31 years the calipers are back to bare metal.

  6. #2816
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Las Vegas

    Posts:    787

    My VIN:    6720

    Club(s):   (AZ-D) (LVDG)

    I removed all four calipers to send to DPI for coating, and I will reassemble them myself with DPI pads.
    Lost about 10lbs of sweat in the garage in the process.
    5 speed, grooved hood, grey interior (Nov '81)
    QA1 coilovers, Delorean.eu LCA brackets, DPNW Poly swaybar bushings, DMCMW shock tower bar, Deloreana.com convex mirrors, DPNW Toby Tabs, DPI exhaust, C4 Corvette third brake light, PJ Grady tail light boards, Bitsyncmaster relays

  7. #2817
    Senior Member Jack's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Posts:    237

    My VIN:    10110

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)


  8. #2818
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

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    My VIN:    02613

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    Got around to the air conditioning again. Symptoms were of a clogged orifice tube.

    Checked the VOV. Filter screen was dirty -- and damaged, either during installation or removal, I can't tell.



    Checked for other blockages by pushing air through the system without the VOV installed. Made a hose for the occasion.



    When the system was sealed back up, I heard a hissing sound from the Schrader (sp?) valve where the low pressure switch is. I adjusted it with this little tool from NAPA. It's a tiny little bugger and easy to lose track of!



    With a new filter screen in place, I pulled a vacuum on the system and stopped at -30. After a few hours, I'll check the gauges. This all seems very familiar...
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  9. #2819
    Banned
    Join Date:  Sep 2011

    Location:  Sunfield, Michigan, USA

    Posts:    2,444

    My VIN:    1798

    I recognize the design concept of that hose

  10. #2820
    Senior Member vwdmc16's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  sacramento

    Posts:    1,418

    My VIN:    1768

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Finished the oil change after getting enough 20w/50 VR1 oil. Collected an oil sample to send to Blackstone Laboratories for analysis. Maybe they can detect anything that may prove my failing head gasket theory.

    Added a jumper to the lighting circuit to get my interior/door lights functional again, something isnt right with the wiring on my interior lights.

    Then I drove it around tonight and discovered more horrible squeaks....

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