Location: Sunfield, Michigan, USA
Posts: 2,444
My VIN: 1798
Join the club - there's a 3mm allen key that's been sitting in the valley of my engine for over a year now, quite possibly with some other tools as wellOriginally Posted by alexwolf1216
The part that you're describing sounds like the vacuum solenoid for the distributor's vacuum advance. It's supposed to be mounted off the back of the mixture unit, just behind the fuel distributor. It looks like this:
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,327
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
That's your vacuum advance solenoid. It should be attached to the back of the engine right behind the fuel distributor. Should be a wire going to it as well. If you get it hooked back up the car will run quite a bit better. Right now you have vacuum advance all the time, which will cause a fast idle at least or a bad idle depending on how things are set up.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: Maple Grove, MN (Minneapolis)
Posts: 1,432
My VIN: 05457
I do have a dash cover that I typically use when parked in the sun, but there is just something about having an issue free interior that is appealing to me. Plus, I just bought a new binnacle, so I want it visible so I can enjoy it. This definitely falls into the realm of "overly nitpicking" DeLorean maintenance.
David Proehl
Location: San Antonio, TX
Posts: 636
My VIN: 4608- sold 4885- current
Thanks Dave,
It looks like its hooked up, but its just not mounted. I need to become a damn contortionist to get back there haha....
Location: Florida
Posts: 2,371
My VIN: <2000
Club(s): (DCF)
Hi. I am new here. I have owned my D for just about a year, and it is currently undergoing restoration as my new hobby. I am mechanically inclined and meticulous (i.e. slow). I am currently working on the right front suspension area (lowering springs,caliper rebuild, flex hose, and tie rod/ball joint boot replacement. I just want to say that I really value this board, as it is another avenue to learn about my car. Thanks!
Location: Belluno, Italy
Posts: 762
My VIN: 3305
Welcome! I just did a whole brake caliper rebuild process, so feel free to ask if you need some tips! There are people WAY more expert than me, and I gained much from them, but... the more the merrier!
Enjoy the ride!
Location: Stevens Point,WI
Posts: 2,546
My VIN: 6125
Welcome to the board! If you have specific questions about your refurb don't be afraid to ask. There are lots of threads that cover different rebuild topics and we can either help direct you to those or answer other questions you may have. There is a wealth of knowledge here from many people who have done exactly what you're in the middle of working on.
Location: Adelaide
Posts: 944
My VIN: 6679
Posts: 4,861
My VIN: 3937
Today and the last few days... been figuring out a high idle I've had of late.
Over the past week when I start it up it has been spiking to 1,800 RPM or so and staying there. Unlike many times before, snapping the gas wasn't helping it come back down. So starts the troubleshooting.
Throttle spool cleaned and lubricated. Spring inside it confirmed to be on tighter notch. Cable ends underneath confirmed not to be binding. Linkage confirmed not to be binding or interfering with underside of bracket. Linkage length adjusted.
Idle microswitch screws adjusted to engage properly. Microswitch itself disconnected and tested for resistance/functionality. Diode near idle ECU checked for proper current flow (in one direction and not in the other) and good connectors. Unplugging ECU connector while running test done, inconclusive.
Bulkhead connector for idle speed cleaned and confirmed good. Same for coil and ballast resistor connections.
Two air hose splits/leaks corrected, one on larger diameter hose from air box to oil filler and the other on the smaller hose from oil filler to lower port on cold start valve.
Test for checking if decal valves are bad done, not indicating they are the problem.
Removed hose between cold start valve and idle speed motor while motor still installed to test operation and see if moving parts are moving or not. They weren't. Not well anyway and only making it about halfway open/closed.
Removed motor and put on workbench for cleaning. Not convinced I got it clean enough as upon reinstall it changed nothing (still idling high and still not moving much when peering in through opening... while key to run but engine off).
Tested motor as per other thread and K-Jet troubleshooting write-up and the resistance comes in lower (10 and 20 Ohms across pins when test says it should be 20 and 40). Plan to clean again, several times if necessary to try to get it to go. Otherwise I'll likely need to buy a new one (webstore shows core is required so not sure how that is going to work).
In the meantime, noticed my A/C belt was sloppy loose (A/C Freon not charged anyway). Took it off to see a couple spots had been thinned along the sides. Pulley closest to tensioner bolt is not rotating symmetrically. Likely needs replacing.
Got the tiny tweezers out and returned the little rubber spacers under the windshield front grating screws back to where they should be.
That's it!!
Last edited by Jonathan; 06-25-2014 at 08:53 PM.
Sept. 81, auto, black interior
Location: Eglin AFB, FL
Posts: 1,603
My VIN: 3299
Have you tried by-passing your idle speed thermistor?
DMCTalk.org Moderator
Actual snippet of a conversation from Sept 2013:
Me: Eddie, I can't wait to get the car back when you're done with it.
Eddie: Yeah, you'll be able to give the car gas, and it won't be - like - embarrassing....
Posting Permissions
Reply With Quote
