Chugging, hard start, dies on acceleration... you tell me.

[NightFlyer]

Sounds like you may have a few unrelated issues going on simultaneously.

First thing's first - you need to determine if you truly have a cold start problem or if it's actually a hot start problem.

In hot sunny weather, hot start problems can be prevalent even after rest/off periods upwards of 5+ hours - especially if the car is parked in the sun the entire time on a hot surface, such as asphalt, blacktop, etc.

If you can't get the car to start from cold (and you're certain it's cold and not hot) without doing the plug swap trick, then it suggests either a faulty or unplugged TTS (thermotime switch) or there's a problem with the 12V feed on the CSV's plug. If you're sure that you're having a true cold start problem, then you'll have to test the 12V feed on the CSV's plug and if that's good, then you know that you have a bad or unplugged TTS, and it will need to be replaced. If you're not getting 12V on the plug's feed while engaging the starter, then you'll need to determine why and remedy the situation that's preventing such.

As to your running problem, check to make sure that all your vacuum lines are secure and aren't leaking. Check the air induction system for any leaks by using targeted sprays of carb/throttle body cleaner while the engine is running. Also spray around the lower half of the mixture unit (by the idle air motor's intake tube - aka the pipe of agony). If you find nothing, check the operation of vacuum systems affecting fuel and spark - namely the WUR/CPR and the electrical distributor's vacuum advance for proper operation.

It works like this:

When you first start the engine cold, vacuum from the multi-port switch in the y-pipe (under the intake) is directed to the warm-up regulator / control pressure regulator (WUR/CPR). Once the running temperature reaches 104F, the multi-port switch redirects the vacuum to the solenoid hanging off the mixture unit behind the fuel distributor. When the engine is idling, the idle micro-switch is activated (closed) and instructs the solenoid to hold the vacuum there within the solenoid. When the the engine is under throttle, the idle micro-switch is disengaged (open) and causes the solenoid to actuate and release the vacuum being held there onward to the distributor in order to cause the vacuum advance of the timing.

To confirm operation, you simply pull the vacuum lines off the WUR/CPR and the electrical distributor's vacuum chamber and/or vacuum solenoid and check for the presence/absence of vacuum during the various stages of engine operation.

If you find nothing wrong, we'll continue to diagnose and eventually get it figured out