Are you sure it's oil and not coolant?Originally Posted by papanoel
Location: Netherlands
Posts: 612
My VIN: 3695
Club(s): (DCN)
Are you sure it's oil and not coolant?
Location: New Brunswick, Canada
Posts: 257
My VIN: 4266, Previously 11056
Well, something is not right with my fuel sender. I have only had small bits of time to test things here and there, but there is a break in voltage to the sender. Will look into it when I lay her up for the winter. My bigger concern now is I think my CSV is going! She is having a real hard time starting cold. Getting really odd readings from the CSV with the Multimeter.Can't remember the numbers offhand here at work but can post them when I get home if need be. I can hear the pump when the key turns...
Location: Burnaby, BC
Posts: 466
Club(s): (PNDC)
Sigh! That looks like mine. It took me some time and the replacement of my two coolant hoses of the auto tranny to find out that the majority of the leak was actually not ATF (pinkish) but 90W gear oil (whitish/clear) telling me that my split seal and the drive shaft seals are leaking. It might be only the latter one in your case. Clean it off with breake cleaner, dry it and check a few days later. Have a look if there is a small stream of oil coming from the drive shaft and you might only have to replace those seals. I found out with #03922 that I will have to do both and this is either one of the biggest DIY jobs or a really high bill from DMC NW. Split seal can only replaced if you remove the engine and tranny unti, part these and remove the final drive, clean, reseal and put everything back together. Had a chat with Toby from DMC NW and removal alone is 10 hours. This will add up at $125 an hour.went to get gass and inflate the tires and it seems my transmission is leaking :/
don't know if its the plug where its leaking from can't reach it. and don't really know how long its been leaking for.
- Volker Seidel -
The way I see it, if you're gonna drive around in a car, why not do it with some style?
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,819
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
Drain and refill with fresh 85W-90 gear oil. Do not overfill. If the output seals leak you have to replace the seals but you may also have to either put Redi-Sleeves on the output flanges or replace them. If the shaft the flange fits on is loose you may have to reset the backlash. If it is too loose you will continue to ruin seals and leak. To properly set the backlash the transmission has to come out and be disassembled. If it is a slow leak (and most DO leak) put some cardboard or kitty litter under the car. You do not have to remove the motor to remove the transmission. I think you misunderstood, the whole job can be done in 10 hours.Sigh! That looks like mine. It took me some time and the replacement of my two coolant hoses of the auto tranny to find out that the majority of the leak was actually not ATF (pinkish) but 90W gear oil (whitish/clear) telling me that my split seal and the drive shaft seals are leaking. It might be only the latter one in your case. Clean it off with breake cleaner, dry it and check a few days later. Have a look if there is a small stream of oil coming from the drive shaft and you might only have to replace those seals. I found out with #03922 that I will have to do both and this is either one of the biggest DIY jobs or a really high bill from DMC NW. Split seal can only replaced if you remove the engine and tranny unti, part these and remove the final drive, clean, reseal and put everything back together. Had a chat with Toby from DMC NW and removal alone is 10 hours. This will add up at $125 an hour.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Taylors SC
Posts: 5,327
My VIN: (former)05429
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Most common- axle seals
Next most common - drain plug.
Dave S
DMC Midwest - retired but helping
Greenville SC
Location: Burnaby, BC
Posts: 466
Club(s): (PNDC)
I heard from Toby at DMC NW about the Speedi-Sleeves/Redi-Sleeves. Can this get installed with the final drive in the car? Is this accessible when replacing the output shaft seals? It might be a first attempt to close the leak. I still hope that it is not the split seal. But I can carry this discussion on in a different thread as it does not really belong here.
- Volker Seidel -
The way I see it, if you're gonna drive around in a car, why not do it with some style?
Location: UK
Posts: 208
My VIN: 4494
Club(s):
Yes, totally doable. I did it this summer myself as my drive axles were leaking and I wanted to be as thorough as possible. The sleeve goes over the drive flange (110539), and can be done on the bench. Be sure to clean it well first, and seal with with some Loctite 243.
Location: Burnaby, BC
Posts: 466
Club(s): (PNDC)
Great info. Thanks!!
Have these been Speedi-Sleeves 99177, by any chance?
- Volker Seidel -
The way I see it, if you're gonna drive around in a car, why not do it with some style?
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,042
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
99169 is the one you want for drive axel flange seals. It also fits the crankshaft pulley ( timing cover seal).
99177 is for the auto trans output shaft seal
Info is from the www.skfpartsinfo.com
listing for Delorean.
Last edited by DMC5180; 10-10-2014 at 05:30 PM.
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, EPS, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Location: Burnaby, BC
Posts: 466
Club(s): (PNDC)
Well, I actually have an automatic. It should therefore be the correct one, correct?
Last edited by vps3922; 10-10-2014 at 05:54 PM.
- Volker Seidel -
The way I see it, if you're gonna drive around in a car, why not do it with some style?
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