Location: Wellington New Zealand
Posts: 232
My VIN: 3472 (former), 1141
Club(s): (RMDG) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Knocked out a few items last night that had ben bothering me:
- Recharged AC - nice having cold air again!
- Drivers door adjustment, door was sticking on front pin
- And, the surround around both of my drop windows were getting pretty worn and nasty:
Drop Window 1.jpg
So I taped up both sides and re-painted the surround with Rustoleum satin finish black:
drop window 2.jpg
drop window 3.jpg
And here is the final with all tape removed:
drop window 4.jpg
Michael Babb
- Volker Seidel -
The way I see it, if you're gonna drive around in a car, why not do it with some style?
Location: St Louis
Posts: 34
My VIN: 4846
4846 got:
The biggest project was the brakes. Getting the original hoses out of the hex holder brackets was a nightmare. Once they were out we replaced all 4 corners with stainless braided lines and rebuilt the calipers with stainless steel pistons. One piston was really stuck fast. Some garage engineering found a way to get it out! Way ground a small notch on both sides, slide a large washer into the notches, and used a ball joint fork to turn the washer, thus turning the piston. We also replaced the brake master cylinder.
While we were under the car we inspected the complete frame. It looks amazingly clean...except one spot. The standard brake master leak had recently started so some of the epoxy had bubbled. We scraped the tank plate all down and ground off what we could then POR15 and painted every tiny spot on the frame we could find. Ace Hardware Medium Gray 17076 was a pretty spot on match for color. While were at it I hit some suspension parts with some black rust reformer to keep that under control as well. POR15 was like water and went on really thin so I did a couple coats. Wear gloves because its drippy! One tip Marty gave me on the POR15: don't open the top just poke a small hole in it and cover it with a small bit of duct tape then saran wrap. That will keep it usable for a looooong time.
We put some 90 weight gear oil in the steering rack and smoothed out the steering. Nice touch Marty!
We put in new pigtails for the front marker lights. One of them was pretty destroyed and needed replacement so we did both. I already had LEDs all the way around that Ian Y. and I did earlier.
Marty showed me how to rebuild a mode switch and the magical way a Zen master can reach into the dash and feel his way through the removal and replacement. That was a joyful task but it turns so smoothly now. That turning smoothness came from Marty's attention to detail. He hand polished the aluminum face inside the mode switch itself. That, my friends, is passion!
We installed the stainless steel three screw strips on both sides that hold the two aluminum inspection/protection plates. That one was quick and easy.
Thanks again Marty!
thanks! hopefully the paint holds up!
Today i replaced the driver's side axle flange and seal with parts from PJGrady.
hopefully no more transmission leaks now that this is done!
2015-09-13 13.17.04.jpg 2015-09-13 13.17.29.jpg 2015-09-13 13.46.21.jpg
Today was a loooong day but I got the business end of the car completed:
Here are the parts that I started the morning with (DMC EU adjustable shocks, lower links converted by Marty Maier, lowering springs, re-waxed rubber insulator, and re-painted spring cups):
Attachment 36811
Here are the end results. I also installed the previously completed brake rotor and calipers:
image.jpg
image.jpg
Yesterday, I installed the front shocks as well. Up next is bleeding the brakes....![]()
Dana
1981 DeLorean DMC-12 (5 Speed, Gas Flap, Black Interior, Windshield Antenna, Dark Gray)
Restored as "mostly correct, but with flaws corrected". Pictures and comments of my restoration are in the albums section on my profile.
1985 Chevrolet Corvette, Z51, 4+3 manual
2006 Dodge Magnum R/T (D/D)
2010 Camaro SS (Transformers Edition)