Other than to say 'That's Punny', I wouldn't touch that line with a 10' pole....Originally Posted by content22207
Hey, I thought I was off of your $hit list:
Location: North GA
Posts: 6,200
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Other than to say 'That's Punny', I wouldn't touch that line with a 10' pole....
Hey, I thought I was off of your $hit list:
Posts: 1,068
My sincerest apologies -- I did not mean to overlook you:
K-Jet blows.
Martin is a doo doo head.
Steve is a rocket scientist.
Ron sucks (but less than he did yesterday)
And I've just been contacted by another owner interested in converting to carburetion.
Life goes on.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
This question seems to have been lost in the fracas, so I'll answer it: Yes, that is a 300-micron "fuel inlet filter." Some fuel pumps come with the inlet filter, but you can also buy them separately. Although it technically filters fuel, it is not to be confused with the main "fuel filter" which is far finer and sits closer to the carburetor.
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Dahlonega GA
Posts: 2,462
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Naw, I'm not sure bill is accustom to answering my questions ;-/. So it sounds like it is simply the carb kit version of a pick up screen.
eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
K-Jet: Causing electrical issues since November 5th 1955
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
I guess you will be wanting this, then. I was going to buy it as a spare, but my wallet can't handle it right now.
Edit: Never mind; wrong size venturi. Good thing I have an eye doctor appointment Thursday.
Farrar
Last edited by Farrar; 09-05-2011 at 09:43 PM.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Posts: 1,068
I've got a house full of cores already.
That's an Autolite 2100. The Motorcraft redesign has a few advantages:
- Better pulloff
- Better choke plate to choke mechanism adjustment
- Bigger chimneys (you'll appreciate those if you ever need to fill the bowl manually)
- PCV in the carb itself (Autolites did PCV through a spacer between the carb and manifold)
- Spark advance barb (Autolites have a threaded port for a hard line)
Bill Robertson
#5939
Bad news: I just did a cost analysis, and inflation has driven up materials costs for a carb conversion. Bulk aluminum and aluminum pipe for the fuel pump carrier are the largest culprits. Brass fittings are up too, but they were only a couple of dollars to begin with. Fuel pumps have jumped up nearly $15, which is a 33% price hike. Altogether, before going to Autozone to research hose costs, it looks like 5 speed conversions are going cost me slightly more than $1,000 to make. Automatics will be at least $50 higher.
This assumes my aluminum welder isn't going to increase his labor charge too.
Still not a bad bargain when you consider *MY* labor is free (including driving to your house to help you install it, but you will have to feed me).
There is no charge for the tank baffle.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Last edited by content22207; 09-05-2011 at 10:46 PM.
Location: Congers NY
Posts: 188
My VIN: SCEDT26T5BD06996
Club(s): (DMA)
I think my fuel pump is faulty. The car will die after going down a hill after it levels and starts to incline again. Then it leaves me stranded for about 10-20min until I can roll the car down to a flat surface and let it sit for a bit. It's a real pain in the ass when I'm trying to get to work on time. It's a bigger pain in the ass that I've only had the time to put about two tanks of gas in the car since my carb conversion. If they're cheap I may have to get two.
"He that hath a beard is more than a youth, and he that hath no beard is less than a man"
- William Shakespeare
Posts: 1,068
First & foremost: make sure your problem is in fact the pump. You may have to look inside the bowl to make sure. I chased an intermittent problem on one of my church's school buses for months before I finally caught the vehicle red handed on the side of the road with an empty bowl (and even then the problem didn't go away -- I replaced the pump, but it happened again, ultimately turning out to be a bad tank pickup).
You will likely need to carry a volt meter and some wire to diagnose this one. I would run a dedicated ground wire from the battery to the front of the car (don't depend upon the frame ground -- more & more owners are reporting problems with the terminal that grounds the frame to the battery). If your pump does stop spinning, connect it to that ground. And of course check for 12v on the positive side.
Fuel pumps themselves don't usually come & go (mechanical or electrical). Mechanical pumps used to get weak, but they never came back to full strength (they just got weaker & weaker). Electric pumps typically stop working altogether and never come back. Fuel itself used to suffer what was known as vapor lock (gas boiled in the line so the pump was pumping vapor rather than liquid), which would come & go with heat, but that was a problem with engine mounted pumps -- tank mounted pumps can't vapor lock. An electrical problem could come & go, especially if it is caused by a failing solder joint.
Ignition problems definitely can come & go. I'd suspect an intermittent ignition problem before I'd suspect an intermittent fuel problem (an old mechanic once told me that 9 out of 10 vehicle running problems are electrically caused, not fuel related). When your car stops running, do you even have spark? A quick way to check is to clip a timing light on any plug wire, as close to the plug as possible, and watch for it to flash as you crank the engine (if you haven't done this mod, I highly recommend it so you can crank the engine while standing behind the car: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nQQiUh3lbdQ).
I can't help but wonder how many DeLorean running problems are simply caused by electricity's inability to do its job, some of which is faulty design, and some of which is simple degradation. Owners often are pretty good at checking the positive side of circuits, but tend to neglect the negative side (remember that the electrons actually flow from negative to positive -- that's why you see so many melted fuse blocks, inertia switches, etc).
I notice you haven't posted since August 12. Both of these threads were started since then. You might find them helpful as you run down this problem:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1360-Ground-Bus
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13...ound-Schematic
Check out these two consecutive posts: Dan in Florida had persistent electrical problems at his pump until he regrounded the inertia switch: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?13...ll=1#post15168.
Dave McKeen also resolved a persistent pump problem by regrounding it: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10...el+pump+ground.
My pump is connected directly to a 4 gauge ground bus (no inertia switch), which is itself connected directly to the battery -- guaranteed no electrical problems (I've also pulled the RPM relay out of the circuit -- those definitely fail after 12 plus hours of continuous use).
Bill Robertson
#5939
Last edited by content22207; 09-06-2011 at 10:02 AM.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Hey, Bill -- use this video instead!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oELjZdBwe1Y
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Posts: 1,068
Yeah, something wasn't set right when you filmed that.
This is how Farrar's engine typically starts, when he hasn't screwed something up (literally screwed -- like all great experimenters, Farrar can not resist turning screws, if for no other reason than simply to see what they do): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3sFEp...eature=related.
Bill Robertson
#5939
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