What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[Gregadeth]

Thanks Dennis, Dave, and Dana (the 3 Ds )
So it sounds like I have to clear up some of that epoxy stuff on the outer side, as well as use a socket in place of some of the washers so that the bushing can slip into it when pressed into place. Appreciate all the suggestions. I'll continue tackling this on saturday.

[DMC-81]

Today I got my new window motor almost installed on the drivers side. I lost at least 2 hours of the day trying to get the power mirror switch out without breaking it. In the end, I had to make 2 tools to push the little plastic tabs that are hidden below the metal bracket in at the same time from below ( like someone picking a lock ). Then it finally came out without any damage. I also sweated over removing the NLA escutcheon.

This time, I didn't even take the H shaped handle bracket out as I tried unsuccessfully to insert the unit though that opening on the passenger side. I took the motor apart, glued the spacers to the motor, put the motor in the door thorough the hole that it clamps to, and then fished the bracket ( without the z tabs) down through the top middle hole. Then I assembled the unit in the door, using blue lock tight on the 3 motor screws.

All in all, it was a successful day. I'll secure it and connect it next. Here's a pic of the old and new motors:
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Both old motors were broken at the plastic elbow and seized.

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[Michael Babb]

A few weeks ago actually, but installed the late style pull straps on my early '81 car. Pics of the progress below:

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[OZ DMC]

I have been quietly working on the refurbishment of 2065 in Australia since I purchased it in June 2015.

Steering, brakes, wiring issues and water leaks have been fixed so thought it was time to tackle the doors with a hit list as follows:-

1. Check operation of the central locking – works intermittently from passengers door only
2. Fix/adjust the sliding windows on both doors, and
3. Check why the driver’s door occasionally locks and won’t open without a lot of jiggling of the door lock and opener from inside.
4. Contemplate an upgraded or remote locking system.

Got the passengers door interior panel off and checked the door lock/open operation. The passenger’s side lock/open has always been fine so it was a good way to learn how everything works.

I noticed the door lock mechanism (front button on passenger’s side) operated on the driver’s door but only to lock the driver’s door but not unlock it. I did a bit of opening and closing on both sides but when the driver’s side didn’t quite close I gave it a good slam – disaster….

Now the driver’s door would not open no matter what I did. I managed to get the driver side inside top door panel off and work the forward and aft lock and door open push rods the but no luck.

I looked at the videos on lubricating and getting full movement in the door lock push rods and even disconnected those push rods from the yoke mechanism to check movement but again no luck.

I don’t appear to have an inertia switch and I’m not game to play with the door relays (numbered 13 & 14) in the fuse box just yet (not sure that would have any effect)

Any advice would be very much appreciated. There's got to be a way to open this door!

OZ DMC
2065
Australia

[DMCMW Dave]

I lost at least 2 hours of the day trying to get the power mirror switch out without breaking it. In the end, I had to make 2 tools to push the little plastic tabs that are hidden below the metal bracket in at the same time from below ( like someone picking a lock ). Then it finally came out without any damage. I also sweated over removing the NLA escutcheon.
]

Must be a very early car. Later cars have a notch on either end of the plate so that you can press the tabs in with a small screwdriver. Here's a hint - before you put it back together, or even later, drill a small hole (3/16) on either end of the hole that the switch snaps into. This will give you access to the tabs without any special tools. This is hidden when the escutcheon is in place.

Take a look at this photo - you can see the notches at either end of the rectangular hole. That's what they are there for, and the folks in the factory figured it out in about week #3. . . .

http://store.delorean.com/popup.aspx...rge/105227.JPG

[DMCMW Dave]

I
I noticed the door lock mechanism (front button on passenger’s side) operated on the driver’s door but only to lock the driver’s door but not unlock it. I did a bit of opening and closing on both sides but when the driver’s side didn’t quite close I gave it a good slam – disaster….

Now the driver’s door would not open no matter what I did. I managed to get the driver side inside top door panel off and work the forward and aft lock and door open push rods the but no luck.

I looked at the videos on lubricating and getting full movement in the door lock push rods and even disconnected those push rods from the yoke mechanism to check movement but again no luck.


OZ DMC
2065
Australia

You are probably close. You are doing the right things disconnecting the rods. Make sure they are clicking into position lock/unlock.

Is the door closed all the way? Make sure that it's not half-latched at one end. Press on the door to try and close it further.

Disconnect the latch rods too, try working them manually as an assistant presses on the door from the outside to remove the tension from the latches.

[OZ DMC]

You are probably close. You are doing the right things disconnecting the rods. Make sure they are clicking into position lock/unlock.

Is the door closed all the way? Make sure that it's not half-latched at one end. Press on the door to try and close it further.

Disconnect the latch rods too, try working them manually as an assistant presses on the door from the outside to remove the tension from the latches.

Thank you Dave,

I closed the door with a good slam as it was only half closed. Now the door seems to be to be fitting too tight as the door now sits a fraction lower than the rear quarter panel whereas it was nice and flush before. Door fit and closing has not been a problem before, just the locking mechanism.

I will keep at it.

Very much appreciate your response.

Best regards.
OZ DMC

[opethmike]

Dave's 100% spot on. I had this EXACT same thing happen to me a number of years ago. I did as he described, and after LOTS of persistence working the inner mechanicals by hand it eventually popped open.

[81dmc]

I also sweated over removing the NLA escutcheon.

You do know that DMCH has reproduction LH/RH escutcheons available, right?

[steve6864]

Uncovered 6864 from 14" of snow that we got here in the Mountains of N.C. Took advantage of a 60 degree day and checked fluids etc... Installed a new throttle body plate that I spent $80 on and have no idea if it will improve air flow or not,but,car seems to start faster and settles into an idle more quickly. Love every opportunity to get into the VOD and did some general cleaning and re-routing of wires while I was in there. Replaced the pin that holds the throttle linkage onto the ball too.While I was at it for no reason at all I took the Stainless overflow tank off and gave it a good cleaning inside and out and toppped off with fresh Anti-freeze. Driving it tomorrow.