Warm Start Issue - Resting Fuel Pressure Drops to 0 after 5 minutes

[DMC-81]

Thanks Dave! Very helpful.

The fuel pump was installed when I bought the car in 2013, so I don't have instructions. I am retrofitting the check valve after the fact, as the pump didn't come with one at that time. Now that my car is up and running again, I am installing the valve, a new fuel accumulator and filter.

Based on what I read about these last 2 tasks, I am prepared to learn new swear words.



Dana

[cpistocco]

What's nice about my car is how the oem braided fuel line (coming off the accumulator) falls right into the automatic gear shift linkage. Nice engineering.

[Jonathan]

What's nice about my car is how the oem braided fuel line (coming off the accumulator) falls right into the automatic gear shift linkage. Nice engineering.

Could just be the way you have it routed (or from the guy who worked on the car before you got it)?

This area on my car is no masterpiece, but maybe a well placed zip-tie would help? (see pic)

IMG_3503.jpg

But yes, engineering is no nice in a few spots, eh?

[cpistocco]

Could just be the way you have it routed (or from the guy who worked on the car before you got it)?

This area on my car is no masterpiece, but maybe a well placed zip-tie would help? (see pic)

IMG_3503.jpg

But yes, engineering is no nice in a few spots, eh?

Yes...your ziptie is holding the braided hose up. Without that it would be dangling into the shift linkage. I will try something similar on mine. My only fear is that the ziptie may cut into the hose. Very lame engineering back in 1981.....

[cpistocco]

Yes...your ziptie is holding the braided hose up. Without that it would be dangling into the shift linkage. I will try something similar on mine. My only fear is that the ziptie may cut into the hose. Very lame engineering back in 1981.....

Another nice touch (speaking of the fuel system) is the way they routed the fuel filter and lines within 2 inches of the exhaust pipe.

[DMC-81]

Yes...your ziptie is holding the braided hose up. Without that it would be dangling into the shift linkage. I will try something similar on mine. My only fear is that the ziptie may cut into the hose. Very lame engineering back in 1981.....

I'm doing this zip tie placement right now. Basically the new rubber hose needs to be routed the same way as Jonathan's original (braided) hose to prevent it from kinking. This morning, I zip tied the hose to the hard line for the pipe that goes to the filter. I didn't tighten the tie too much to avoid it cutting into the hose. Really, it just needs to hold the hose away from the linkage.

This accumulator was a bear of a job..... one that I attempted several times (see my posts above) with shorty wrenches. No go . I tried to have a mechanic do it as well....no go . I thought that I'd have to have help at the upcoming local tech day. But, I think I have it conquered now, all thanks to a 17mm crow's foot.

I'll post my one handed, blind work, in a tissue box sized area when I'm done.

[cpistocco]

I'm doing this zip tie placement right now. Basically the new rubber hose needs to be routed the same way as Jonathan's original (braided) hose to prevent it from kinking. This morning, I zip tied the hose to the hard line for the pipe that goes to the filter. I didn't tighten the tie too much to avoid it cutting into the hose. Really, it just needs to hold the hose away from the linkage.

This accumulator was a bear of a job..... one that I attempted several times (see my posts above) with shorty wrenches. No go . I tried to have a mechanic do it as well....no go . I thought that I'd have to have help at the upcoming local tech day. But, I think I have it conquered now, all thanks to a 17mm crow's foot.

I'll post my one handed, blind work, in a tissue box sized area when I'm done.

I swear that they (the engineers) went out of their way to make things as difficult as possible!! I cut a small section of old rubber hose and placed it over the braided fuel hose so that the zip tie could not cut into it. Then, I later removed the zip tie, and, instead, used a "s" hook, hanging from the inlet where the steel fuel line emerges... Maybe I should take a pic... Worked great!

[PJ Grady Inc.]

What's nice about my car is how the oem braided fuel line (coming off the accumulator) falls right into the automatic gear shift linkage. Nice engineering.

You're missing a double C clip and tie-wrap that is used to lock it out of harm's way to the fuel hard line. We can blame the PO I guess?
Rob

[PJ Grady Inc.]

Could just be the way you have it routed (or from the guy who worked on the car before you got it)?

This area on my car is no masterpiece, but maybe a well placed zip-tie would help? (see pic)

IMG_3503.jpg

But yes, engineering is no nice in a few spots, eh?

These lines are way overdue for replacement. The accumulator looks old too based on that drop of waxed up fuel danging from the rib/bulge area. Has it been changed as the lines did not leave the factory routed that way?

[DMC-81]

Here are some pics of my fuel accumulator adventure. I would rather tear into the VOD again before doing this job one more time....

My starting point was an original FA and lines. I was having hot start issues, and the problem was getting worse. Plus the outer rubber layer of the hoses has disintegrated off exposing the fiber braid layer....

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Here is the new hardware. I got the original size Bosch accumulator from Summit Racing. Then gates barricade fuel hoses and fuel injection clamps. Plus a DMC pad.....

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Here is the part number of the new accumulator, which is the same as the old one....
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Here are the tools I used for the fuel accumulator job.
- a 17 mm crow's foot on a socket wrench to remove the fuel filter hard line fitting
- a short length of copper pipe to extend the socket wrench for leverage
- a 17 mm long combination wrench to hold the bigger integrated nut on the accumulator while removing and reinstalling the hard line fitting
- a 19 mm long combination wrench for removing and reinstalling the flexible hose fitting (i did this with the accumulator removed from the car)
- a 7 mm socket and combination wrenches to tighten the hose clamps
- safety goggles
- a piece of wooden strapping to hold the accumulator up to the hard line fitting while I mated them.
- a piece of coat hanger wire to hold the flexible hose square on the accumulator side barb fitting while I installed the clamp. I tried to install the clamp with the accumulator out of the car, but the hose was kinking and it was in the way of tightening the fittings.
As mentioned, the shorty wrenches did not work for me, either the 17mm nor the 19 mm.

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I used a 17mm crow's foot on a socket extended by a piece of copper pipe for leverage. Then I secured the accumulator from rotating with a 17mm long wrench on the integrated nut on the other fitting. SUCCESS! Finally!!...

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After the hard fitting was removed, and the bracket, I was able to lower the unit out of the frame opening.....

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I cut the nylon fuel line to get the unit out further. I used an oil change pan to catch the fuel. When I removed the return line from the back of the accumulator, fuel started siphoning out of the 3/4 full tank. I had to use compressed air in the line to break the siphon action....

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Here is the old accumulator. Notice the bent fitting for the hard line. This is partially why I couldn't get the shorty wrench to work. The nut on the hard line fitting was too close to the other fitting.

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I removed the fiber layer, and used a razor blade to carefully score the nylon line. Then I used small needle nose pliers to split the line away from the fitting. Luckily, I didn't score the brass barbs. Phew!!....

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Here is the new fuel accumulator completely installed and lines/hoses tightened. After a few pump primes with the key, the car started right up. And no leaks!! I broke the double C plastic hose clip, so I'll have to buy that and add it later.

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I know that this job was done hundreds or thousands of times before, but I thought I'd share my experience for someone who has a similar problem.

Cheers,