Posts: 2,517
So I've been thinking a lot about the possible benefits concerning EFI. Right now my car is doing great with the K-jet, no issues except for minor power fade out and stutter in high gears on the freeway. But my question concerning EFI in the Cost to benefit ratio. If its really that good, I just may consider doing an EFI job if the price is right. What am I looking at on average cost for an EFI conversion, and how difficult is it to do?
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Many people give up on EFI conversions. I would say if K-Jet is working fine, leave the thing alone.Originally Posted by thirdmanj
Posts: 443
It'll be cheaper to get the K-Jet working. As someone with a running EFI car, I'd only advise this project if you 1) have a very good reason for it, such as a high performance engine build that will require the extra precision and fuel delivery or 2) you REALLY, REALLY want to to satisfy your urge to say you've done it.
It can be done on the cheap but you probably won't be happy with the results. Cost is anywhere from ~$1000 to unlimited money depending on what you want to do.
The conversion is easy but involved - there's a lot of individual things to do. You may have to fabricate some things. If you go Megasquirt (most of us have), you'll spend a good amount of time fiddling with settings to make it run right.
The benefits are that the car will run like a modern car - no hot start or rest pressure issues, the best possible balance of fuel economy and performance, and generally fewer things to go wrong.
It's very, very awesome to have it done and there are some great benefits, but it's not at all a drop in solution. You will have the support of a few of us who have done it to guide you, though.
Location: Northern NJ
Posts: 8,816
My VIN: 10757 1st place Concourse 1998
In all cases it will always be cheaper to fix up whatever you have to do to get the K-Jet going. Converting costs not only the price of the hardware but many things have to be modified. If you can't do the work yourself it is going to be very $$expensive$$. A properly functioning K-jet is more than adequate for the stock PRV. As said, if you are planning other engine mods then you do need to consider upgrading to EFI if only for the ability to fine tune all of the engine operating parameters. Your other option, if cheap is the operative word, is to go to a carburetor.
David Teitelbaum
Location: Minnesota
Posts: 1,590
My VIN: 06960
^^^Everything He Said^^^
Jim Reeve
DMC6960
Location: Hill Country, TX
Posts: 1,579
My VIN: Formerly 2329
HOLD THE PHONE FOLKS. Many of you remember the initial problems I experienced with getting my EFI up and running, and sure, the easy answer would have been to simply fix or replace the old technology and get it back to old technology specs. I DIDN'T give up and I'm glad I didn't.
Previous posters are correct, the cost can vary wildly and much depends on how much you can and are willing to do yourself. I found a Peugeot 604 manifold to fit, a Camaro throttle body and some F-150 injectors for a total under $200. I bought a Megasquirt system and built the board myself, $320 ish with wiring harness. I paid a guy I met ~$300 if I recall to weld up my 90 degree adapter and fab the fuel rails. Add in $210 for fuel hose, regulator, adapters and the air sensor and a couple of relays. Add in $150 for the LT1 wide band 02 sensor. Throw in $100 for the rubber boot and the K&N air filter. So what does that total, about $1,300, right?
Once we got past the MAJOR fact that the code had an oddfire bug in it that Darcom (Daryl in San Antonio) and I helped to identify, things have gone well. I now control not only my fuel injection but also my timing. I have no hot start issues or idle hunt. I can optimize to the degree I want to. Using Megasquirt I can adjust for A/C kicking on or off at idle and compensate. I can run richer at some parts of the power band and leaner at others. I can advance my spark quicker and get better performance. I have been able to drop about 20 net pounds off the car, clean up the entire engine bay and rip out the lambda, ECU and idle controllers. The DMCH mechanics have seen the setup and think it is pretty neat.
It's all about perseverance. The help from several individuals on this board has been invaluable, but at the end of the day, it is YOU who must troubleshoot YOUR installation. I am now at the point where I am able to help others do their conversion, much like Bill is able to help do carb conversions.
The choice is yours. I will not tell you that you need to go EFI. I will tell you however that if you believe in reliability, modernization and better engine management that newer technology can give you , and if you are willing to climb the steep learning curve, then there are a few of us pioneers out there willing to help you out.
Owen.
Last edited by Spittybug; 09-19-2011 at 07:27 PM. Reason: And it looks good too!
Owen
I.Brew.Beer.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Or you could install an engine which already uses EFI.
Farrar
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Thats pretty sweet that you got it going. Is engine access any easier since you ditched K-Jet? Things look a lot better in there to me.
HOLD THE PHONE FOLKS. Many of you remember the initial problems I experienced with getting my EFI up and running, and sure, the easy answer would have been to simply fix or replace the old technology and get it back to old technology specs. I DIDN'T give up and I'm glad I didn't.
Are you able to easily get to your VOD now?
Location: North GA
Posts: 6,200
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
STOP THE PRESS!
He has no VOD, much like you. Nor the honor, K-Jeters do.
Last edited by Ron; 09-19-2011 at 09:26 PM.
Posts: 1,068
After you ditch K-Jet, it reverts back to being an intake valley.
Death has no power when you can pop your intake manifold off in just a few minutes.
Bill Robertson
#5939
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