Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 1,973
My VIN: 11596
But wait! Check out this gallery.
https://imgur.com/gallery/Wz6xO5J
This frame seems to have two of those rivets per side. I'd have to say it did come from the factory now but I don't know why and not all frames have it. This is the first time I've noticed this. My frame definitely doesn't have any of them. I will check my spare frame when I get to work later this morning.
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Andy Lien
VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023
Photography and Backpacking is life.
Was Fargo, ND
Now Kansas City
Posts: 1,645
Today I contacted a place that does hot dip galvanizing in case I decide to go that route. I was hoping that they had a dip tank for eating off all the old epoxy but no such luck.
One cool thing though, they said they can color match to the original epoxy color or at least pretty close. So I could have a hot dipped galvanized frame in the original Silly Putty color. 20211115_130656.jpg20211115_130328.jpg
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Posts: 1,645
Pricing seems reasonable to me.
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Posts: 1,645
So my question is. If you are trying to do a mostly original restoration and you have a frame with 90% of the epoxy coating still intact should you just peel off ant loose epoxy and then fix the missing or open areas with the same epoxy coating? Because I actually have some that I think is the same product, same color.
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Posts: 1,645
More frame pics
The last is probably the worst rust on the whole frame.20211114_150323.jpg20211114_142213.jpg20211114_142440.jpg20211114_140009.jpg20211114_142001.jpg
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Location: Niceville, FL
Posts: 104
My VIN: 03430
A lot of guys, myself included, have done what you are saying. I removed the loose coating, repaired the rot, cleaned the rust, then coated with POR15 gray coating. Then i painted the entire frame in Krylon smoke gray. It looked amazing and I'm sad that all the work i put into the frame cant be seen under the car....Originally Posted by SupercoolBill
POR15 is great stuff, a little tedious to work with, but the result is really good. I cant speak to its longevity of it myself as i just did mine last year, but i read others who said its been solid for many years.
On another note, blasting the original coating is going to eat up media in a hurry, and will also take a very long time. The coating that's still intact is tough stuff. If you plan to do that, i recommend heating and scrapping off as much of the old coating as possible beforehand.
-Andy
Posts: 1,645
Ok
I think I will just fix what is cracked or missing with a good primer and epoxy paint that matches the original.
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Location: Olathe, KS
Posts: 1,973
My VIN: 11596
Let's just say the guy you're talking to who thinks sandblasting would take "1 to 2 hours tops" has never seen a DeLorean frame and has no idea what he's in for LOL. More like 1 to 2 days.
Andy Lien
VIN 11596 Jan 1982 build - owned since Nov. 2000!
Total frame-off restoration completed 2021-2023
Photography and Backpacking is life.
Was Fargo, ND
Now Kansas City
Posts: 1,645
Yeah I was like "Hmmm....I wonder if he will give me a fixed price for that sight unseen." Lol
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Location: Stayton, Oregon 97383
Posts: 231
My VIN: 10309
A great project and should come in way under the $40K the cars seem to be going for in the online auctions. I would suggest that even though the outside
looks quite good don't forget the inside of the frame. There are lots of dead end corners that can't be seen without a cheap camera but if missed will result in rot
from the inside out. I've found a couple of bubbles on the outside that when I took a grinder to it, went through and made a decent sized hole. I finally went
through the inside of the frame with Eastwood frame coating.
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