I took a break from work this morning and went on DMCH and put stuff in my cart. Unfortunately several things I wanted to order (Roof interior panels, seat covers, carpet kit, floor mats, etc.) were not in stock. I contacted James Espey and he told me what the situation was on each item and expected lead times for those that he knew. I really appreciated this.
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We have no reoccurring plans on Monday nights so usually plan to work on the car on Monday nights but Mondays at work also take a lot out of us. So after work we decided to not work on it. I did however look through the parts for the car to see what we have for usable seat belt parts vs. what we need. I went on DMCH's site and printed out the pages for the seat belts.
I don't know why this was so dang confusing but it was. I ended up writing the part numbers on the exploded diagram then writing down what I do and don't have and condition it is in.
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Okay guys (and girls maybe?) You be the judge.
From the access hole forward looks pretty good.
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Here where it gets dicey. This is from the access hole rearward. Night and day difference-
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The rust tan line is crazy
This looked like a hole at first but I think maybe it just looks that way
Look at that pile of rust flakes!
I do have a full can of cavity wax.
So what do you think? Can I just clean it out, coat it with cavity wax, and put off doing the roof box for a few years?
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Last edited by SupercoolBill; 12-16-2025 at 07:12 PM.
Posts: 224
My VIN: 5848
I have read in a Corvette forum that Bilt Hamber Dynax-ML product similar to 3M Cavity Wax will penetrate existing rust and protect from more occurring better than the 3M product.
Corvettes are known for the "bird cage" area for a lot of rust. Bird cage is part of the frame structure around the cockpit of the car.
Just thought I would pass this info on. I have no firsthand experience with either product.
Others on the forum with roof box structure experience like on yours should give you some advice.
Good pictures you posted of it.
I say yes.
My roof box was WAYYYYYYY worse and still working fine. I finally replaced the center section when the sides started to rust thru.
IMG_1029.jpgIMG_4602.jpgIMG_4729.jpgIMG_4719.jpgIMG_4756.jpg
Shannon Y
www.ohiodeloreans.com
www.facebook.com/ohiodeloreans
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1st angle drive - 58,027 miles (20 years) - original
2nd angle drive - 48,489 miles (21 years) - original donor 2003
3rd angle drive - 26,572 miles (2 years 3 months) - DMCH 2004
4th angle drive - 21,988 miles (1 year 11 months) - DMCH 2006
5th angle drive - 7,137 miles (10 months 2 days) - DMCH 2008
6th angle drive - OVER 134,865 miles (16 yrs 1 month) and counting - Martin G. Speedograph 2009
over 266K miles
Location: Northern Michigan
Posts: 1,236
My VIN: 1880
Club(s): (DCO) (DCUK)
I vacuumed mine out using a variety of homemade vacuum attachment made from garden hoses, etc. I cleaned it as best I could this way, got a wire brush in where I could, etc. Then I used an Eastwood rust encapsulator paint with a long extender hose, and when that was dry in a few days, I used an Eastwood Waxoyl type of product also with a large extender hose and sprayed that all over the place in there as well. I think that bought a ton of time and will work for you as well.
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-he...ch-nozzle.html
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-bl...over-rust.html
https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-he...-in-black.html
Last edited by Patrick C; 12-17-2025 at 09:45 AM.
Patrick C.
VIN 1880