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Thread: 1982 Frame Off Restoration

  1. #1641
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Josh View Post
    Some may disagree, but it is not worth the effort/risk of doing a roof box until you have through rust (rust holes in any of the sections). Otherwise, just rivet down the rear section, spray some sort of rust prevention into the center section, and check back in a decade.
    Thanks. I think it has been riveted by someone already unless it has rivets from the factory.

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  2. #1642
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
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    I took a break from work this morning and went on DMCH and put stuff in my cart. Unfortunately several things I wanted to order (Roof interior panels, seat covers, carpet kit, floor mats, etc.) were not in stock. I contacted James Espey and he told me what the situation was on each item and expected lead times for those that he knew. I really appreciated this.




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  3. #1643
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
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    We have no reoccurring plans on Monday nights so usually plan to work on the car on Monday nights but Mondays at work also take a lot out of us. So after work we decided to not work on it. I did however look through the parts for the car to see what we have for usable seat belt parts vs. what we need. I went on DMCH's site and printed out the pages for the seat belts.

    I don't know why this was so dang confusing but it was. I ended up writing the part numbers on the exploded diagram then writing down what I do and don't have and condition it is in.


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  4. #1644
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by JETS 81 DMC View Post
    Here is a tread with some options for re-graining tools that are less expensive. Also some warnings on the use.

    https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1...m%20them%20yet.

    Some info on re-graining and tools in this link:
    https://www.noroads.com/delorean/328...turize%20metal.

    You, Tam and the pups have been making some great progress.

    Thanks again for all the time you take for your very detailed posts too.
    Thanks


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  5. #1645
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
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    Okay guys (and girls maybe?) You be the judge.
    From the access hole forward looks pretty good.


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  6. #1646
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
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    Here where it gets dicey. This is from the access hole rearward. Night and day difference-


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  7. #1647
    Senior Member SupercoolBill's Avatar
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    The rust tan line is crazy


    This looked like a hole at first but I think maybe it just looks that way



    Look at that pile of rust flakes!


    I do have a full can of cavity wax.


    So what do you think? Can I just clean it out, coat it with cavity wax, and put off doing the roof box for a few years?

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    Last edited by SupercoolBill; 12-16-2025 at 07:12 PM.

  8. #1648
    Senior Member
    Join Date:  Feb 2015

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    My VIN:    5848

    I have read in a Corvette forum that Bilt Hamber Dynax-ML product similar to 3M Cavity Wax will penetrate existing rust and protect from more occurring better than the 3M product.

    Corvettes are known for the "bird cage" area for a lot of rust. Bird cage is part of the frame structure around the cockpit of the car.

    Just thought I would pass this info on. I have no firsthand experience with either product.

    Others on the forum with roof box structure experience like on yours should give you some advice.

    Good pictures you posted of it.

  9. #1649
    Daily Driver ssdelorean's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  NW Ohio

    Posts:    554

    My VIN:    16506

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by SupercoolBill View Post
    So what do you think? Can I just clean it out, coat it with cavity wax, and put off doing the roof box for a few years?
    I say yes.
    My roof box was WAYYYYYYY worse and still working fine. I finally replaced the center section when the sides started to rust thru.

    IMG_1029.jpgIMG_4602.jpgIMG_4729.jpgIMG_4719.jpgIMG_4756.jpg
    Shannon Y
    www.ohiodeloreans.com
    www.facebook.com/ohiodeloreans
    ---
    1st angle drive - 58,027 miles (20 years) - original
    2nd angle drive - 48,489 miles (21 years) - original donor 2003
    3rd angle drive - 26,572 miles (2 years 3 months) - DMCH 2004
    4th angle drive - 21,988 miles (1 year 11 months) - DMCH 2006
    5th angle drive - 7,137 miles (10 months 2 days) - DMCH 2008
    6th angle drive - OVER 134,865 miles (16 yrs 1 month) and counting - Martin G. Speedograph 2009
    over 266K miles

  10. #1650
    Senior Member - Owner since 2003 Patrick C's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Northern Michigan

    Posts:    1,236

    My VIN:    1880

    Club(s):   (DCO) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by SupercoolBill View Post
    So what do you think? Can I just clean it out, coat it with cavity wax, and put off doing the roof box for a few years?
    I vacuumed mine out using a variety of homemade vacuum attachment made from garden hoses, etc. I cleaned it as best I could this way, got a wire brush in where I could, etc. Then I used an Eastwood rust encapsulator paint with a long extender hose, and when that was dry in a few days, I used an Eastwood Waxoyl type of product also with a large extender hose and sprayed that all over the place in there as well. I think that bought a ton of time and will work for you as well.

    https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-he...ch-nozzle.html
    https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-bl...over-rust.html
    https://www.eastwood.com/eastwood-he...-in-black.html
    Last edited by Patrick C; 12-17-2025 at 09:45 AM.
    Patrick C.
    VIN 1880

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