1982 Frame Off Restoration

[SupercoolBill]

FYI: You can release rest pressure by jumping the double yellow/red wire to the brown wire on the RPM relay socket. Takes about one minuet but you will hear the FV change "tune" when rest pressure is gone.

Interesting. That's a good tidbit of information.
So what exactly is happening when you do this that causes the pressure to drop? Where is the fuel going?

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Interesting. That's a good tidbit of information.
So what exactly is happening when you do this that causes the pressure to drop? Where is the fuel going?

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It runs the FV which releases the fuel back into the tank return line.

[SupercoolBill]

It runs the FV which releases the fuel back into the tank return line.

Okay cool. That makes sense.

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[SupercoolBill]

I am expecting the same issue with high idling to happen after I install the rebuilt F.D.
Does this AI info seem legit? Is this the best way to test the idle speed control valve?
Can I remove the ISCV and hook voltage to it and watch it move open and closed?

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[SupercoolBill]

I don't really believe the whole vacuum leak theory. If it had an vacuum leak wouldn't it idle high right from the getgo not after it's been running for a while and it is revved up a couple times?

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[Bitsyncmaster]

I don't really believe the whole vacuum leak theory. If it had an vacuum leak wouldn't it idle high right from the getgo not after it's been running for a while and it is revved up a couple times?

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A cold engine requires more throttle to idle. The thicker oil is mostly that cause. The idle system usually runs almost closed at the idle motor on a hot engine. So anything adding to the idle speed can make the idle go into non-controled RPM.

So a vacuum leak, curb idle open to wide, ignition advance at idle, and leaking deceleration valves all can cause idle to go above 775 RPM at idle.

I don't think unplugging the idle motor proves anything. It does not have a spring return to closed.

[SupercoolBill]

A cold engine requires more throttle to idle. The thicker oil is mostly that cause. The idle system usually runs almost closed at the idle motor on a hot engine. So anything adding to the idle speed can make the idle go into non-controled RPM.

So a vacuum leak, curb idle open to wide, ignition advance at idle, and leaking deceleration valves all can cause idle to go above 775 RPM at idle.

I don't think unplugging the idle motor proves anything. It does not have a spring return to closed.

What if i remove the hose on idle control and put a rubber plug in it? Would that tell me if the idle control is the issue?

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[Bitsyncmaster]

What if i remove the hose on idle control and put a rubber plug in it? Would that tell me if the idle control is the issue?

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With the stock idle ECU the idle motor does not close all the way. But plugging the hose may point you in the right direction. My idle ECU will close it fully.

[SupercoolBill]

Worked on the car after work for three hours. Nothing too intense...Just trying to keep some momentum. We are still waiting to get our fuel distributor back.
Tam installed the previously missing plate.

Then painted the rivets black.

And installed the D-go lift struts.


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[SupercoolBill]

I fixed some loose interior pieces with 3M double-stick tape.




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