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I bought a pair of the original Lund headlight covers on Ebay but didn't like them because I couldn't drive at night with them. So I made these ...
I went to the glass store and bought some clear 1/8" Plexiglas. I made a template and cut out the covers. I then made a form to put a vertical curve on them. I put them in the oven at 250 degrees for about 5 minutes until they were limp and flexible. I removed them from the oven, laid them on the forms and let them cool for about 15 minutes. After stable I applied a 25% tint to them, then attached a rubber edging I bought from McMaster-Carr. Rather than mount them using Velcro like the Lunds I mounted them using hidden O rings as rubber bands.![]()
Jack Skeens
Very nice work! I did something similiar to 5609 last year. I made a set of covers from tinted lexan which looked great in the daytime, but way too dark to drive at night. I made velcro mounting tabs from small plastic shelf anchors that I modified. I guess the upside was they install/uninstall in 5 seconds, but that made them easy to steal as well. Another possible problem was I really didn't want them on at night anyway as the trapped heat generated when stopped made me worry about possible damage to the fascia or paint.
I never put a curve in mine, but I was tempted to melt the edges to make a mounting tab on each side, but elected on the tabs instead. You should definately do a "how to" on your design. I bet there are a lot of owners that would like tinted or clear covers.
PS, I got my lexan online with a dark tint already in it for very cheap(around 30.00) which was enough to do about 4 covers. I remember there were lighter tints avaliable.
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Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Pulled my front grill off today for the first time. I pulled the high beams out so I could get a grip on the grill to pull it. Lots of rust on those ball fasteners but looks like only one of the clips need a new pop rivet. Will have to clean those balls up and put some grease on them when I put it back.
I did this to get at the headlight wires. I see the plate behind the grill is stainless. I also see some more of those connectors in the harness I don't like.
Thinking about also doing the eyebrow bars.
Moved my new seat covers (still in the packaging) from the workbench to the passenger seat of the D. I needed some tools buried beneath. At least the workbench is tidy again.
Location: Atlanta, GA
Posts: 228
My VIN: 6239 - November 81
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Been thinking about doing those braces as well. Also considering pulling the headlights to recondition the mounting brackets - I see a little surface rust back there.
Finally finished the coolant change today. Have been chasing leaks all week. Fixed all of those. Tested otterstat. Installed solid state fan and fan-fail relays.
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Greased all 4 front ball joints and went for a drive.
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 359
My VIN: 16419
Good God. I pulled out my interior, almost all of it, center console, entire passanger side. Installed a touch switch, fog lights in front, wired for two more acessories, pre wired the underglow, removed sanded and re sprayed and greased the passanger seat rails. Dynamatted the center and passanger side and started putting things back together. Tomorrow finish the underglow, remove the drivers side and dynamatt clean and put it all back together. PHEW. So Tired.
I love this car
i havent done anything to mine over the weekend but last week @ school , i almost got the ignition lock off my car, and then a colleague along with me are working on removing the heads on the car. i just need the cam shaft sprocket support tool. where can i get that? PM me anyone please.