FRAMING JOHN DELOREAN - ON VOD www.framingjohndeloreanfilm.com
Page 76 of 111 FirstFirst ... 26 66 74 75 76 77 78 86 ... LastLast
Results 751 to 760 of 1102

Thread: Farrar's car blog

  1. #751
    My friends think I'm nuts jawn101's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Sacramento-ish

    Posts:    4,408

    My VIN:    02100

    Club(s):   (NCDMC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    Okay, so this is interesting...

    When I took the seats out, I noticed that there appear to be thick washers adhered to the driver seats but not the passenger seat.


    And of course they're all stuck together.
    Mine is the same way, 8 washers on the driver's seat glued to each other and to the seat tracks. None on the passenger seat.
    Jon
    1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
    restoration log, March 2011 to present
    full and detailed photo restoration log

  2. #752
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by jawn101 View Post
    Mine is the same way, 8 washers on the driver's seat glued to each other and to the seat tracks. None on the passenger seat.
    Yes, at first I thought they were corroded together, but when I got that pair loose I noticed that they were actually adhered on purpose. Now this explains why the driver's seat always looked like it sat slightly higher than the passenger seat -- the question is: why was this done? If it's on more than one car, there must have been a reason for it. I am tempted to just put one washer around each stud on both seats before I reinstall them, but if there was a good reason to put all eight washers on one seat, then maybe I should find that reason before I start playing with the JB Weld and Rustoleum...

    Just thought of something: if the wood behind the passenger seat has come undone from the bottom, that means there are only a few screws holding it onto the other panels, right? I should be able to remove it. A friend of mine has access to a big work table and a jig saw, so we could cut a replacement panel.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  3. #753
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Leonardtown, MD

    Posts:    9,600

    My VIN:    03572

    Without the washers under the seats, you will have a hard time sliding the seat forward or aft. I think it makes clearance for the carpet to not rub when sliding the seat.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  4. #754
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster View Post
    Without the washers under the seats, you will have a hard time sliding the seat forward or aft. I think it makes clearance for the carpet to not rub when sliding the seat.
    So does that mean that I should put 8 washers under the passenger seat, too? Or put four under each seat?
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  5. #755
    Not dead yet, also Admin. sean's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Dahlonega GA

    Posts:    2,462

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    So does that mean that I should put 8 washers under the passenger seat, too? Or put four under each seat?
    Id go with 8 all the way around.
    eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
    K-Jet: Causing electrical issues since November 5th 1955

  6. #756
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by sean View Post
    Id go with 8 all the way around.
    Thanks. Good thing they come in packs of 100...

    FYI, I ordered washers with a 10mm hole and 20mm outer diameter. That's not quite as wide as the original washers, but I couldn't find anything available in that exact size. And at 2.2mm thick I think they will do the job of raising the seats past the carpet.

    In other news, can anyone think of a material which is just as strong as 1/2" plywood but not as thick? I am considering replacing the wood panels behind the seats (one of which was damaged by water anyway) and would like to adhere some soundproofing material to the back. But the soundproofing material is at least 1/4" thick. That means the panels would have to be half as thick as stock. Lighter than plywood would also be good, but I am sure that's a tall order -- for light weight, strength, and durability, it's hard to beat The Original Carbon Fiber©.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  7. #757
    Not dead yet, also Admin. sean's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Dahlonega GA

    Posts:    2,462

    Club(s):   (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Any thought given to some thin plywood wrapped in fiberglass? You could probably cut the thickness in half and still be plenty strong with a few layers of fiberglass.
    eBay selling at it's best I can tell you stock Delorians and quite a bit of slugs so the Turbo is a super nice up-grade.
    K-Jet: Causing electrical issues since November 5th 1955

  8. #758
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by sean View Post
    Any thought given to some thin plywood wrapped in fiberglass? You could probably cut the thickness in half and still be plenty strong with a few layers of fiberglass.
    That's a good thought. I wish I had access to my porch right now as there are a number of things I would like to make out of fiberglass... unfortunately, they're renovating our building so for the next few months I have no outside space to set up a workbench. I figure, however, that I can get away with setting up a couple of sawhorses in the parking lot one Saturday or Sunday when the weather is good, run an extension cord out the apartment window, and cut a new panel.

    What about buying a sheet of 1/2" fiberglass and cutting it to fit? Can you cut fiberglass with a jigsaw or saber saw? Would the edges need to be re-epoxied for strength?
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  9. #759
    Banned
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Baton Rouge, Louisiana

    Posts:    3,047

    My VIN:    16510 and carbureted

    Club(s):   (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post

    In other news, can anyone think of a material which is just as strong as 1/2" plywood but not as thick?
    Have you considered using transparent aluminum?

  10. #760
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by stevedmc View Post
    Have you considered using transparent aluminum?
    No, but I could use Lexan and be able to see the mice building nests in the car...

    Farrar
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

Page 76 of 111 FirstFirst ... 26 66 74 75 76 77 78 86 ... LastLast

Tags for this Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •