New A/C Panel Design Prototype - Thoughts/Suggestions?

[kajcienski]

I hate to burst your bubble here, but after re-reading the thread it looks like you've left out a very important detail...

The position of the knobs lights and buttons are all dictated by the radio bracket as well, NOT just the AC panel. You'll need to do some custom metalwork to get your new decal to fit in the car properly. This image shows the work another forum member did to make a double-din radio bracket...

Yep - I am aware of needing to alter the bracket - had mentioned that in my last update on the 24th (I called it the "console bracket"). Good news is that it is almost ready! Just really waiting on the new decal now. I'll be posting pics of the whole process I went through once complete. Thanks for head's up though I might have not been clear about the bracket. Oh - one thing to add... The original light panel had a bright white paint to back the light tubes. I am instead trying a special "white" glow in the dark paint I found online. Funny thing is that when I tested it and then turned the light off, it was strong enough to keep the panel decal glowing which I thought was pretty cool.

[Nicholas R]

There's no chance you want to take on the Double DIN project is there?

[kajcienski]

I like the look of the decal, however, the "M" in the DMC logo looks a little off. Other than that, I think this project is great.

I'm using a font called "rustproofbody" - any suggestions on another font that matches DMC (for Mac)?

There's no chance you want to take on the Double DIN project is there?

I'd certainly be up to at least partnering on it with someone as far as my experience with re-designing and prototyping out (molds/resins) a new smaller light panel for the double din project, as well as decal design. That big of a bracket modification would be a headache for me though Anyone interested? That is... When someone figures out the "right" place to re-locate the headlights and hazards without looking silly and also "partially period correct" to the car I haven't really seen a solution I like to that yet unless I missed something.

[20098]

There is another font that I have on my computer called "DMC" and the "D" and "C" are more similar to the original logo typeface. However, the "M" is not.

Maybe someone could work on the graphic for you like in the instrument cluster thread(?).

I've attached the "DMC" font that I have.

Dmc.TTF

I'm using a font called "rustproofbody" - any suggestions on another font that matches DMC (for Mac)?

[kajcienski]

There is another font that I have on my computer called "DMC" and the "D" and "C" are more similar to the original logo typeface. However, the "M" is not.

Maybe someone could work on the graphic for you like in the instrument cluster thread(?).

I've attached the "DMC" font that I have.

Dmc.TTF

Thanks! I compared to the original on the car and can just slightly manipulate the current font to match. Glad you guys caught that!

[1batt4u]

What ever happened to this project?!!! I was so ready to pay whatever price they wanted for that!

Yes, that is mine!!!

I am in the process on working on this project!!

I was busy with other stuff, and getting my Delorean together!

I am currently working out the bugs, and working on a custom shifter plate for the headlight/hazard switches and defrost/fans/door lock indicators

[sadeeky]

that does indeed look better! Originally i was playing with even more space and ended up bring closer together - evidently not enough. Thanks!

thats awesome i want that for my car!!!!

[kajcienski]

Okay - my modified bracket is now complete! With the help of my Dremel, some scrap aluminum sheet metal, steel reinforced epoxy putty, black trim paint, and a few cool Home Depot finds (see below), we are in business!

Here is the new modified bracket ready to be installed:

Photo1-3.jpg
Photo1-2.jpg

Grommets and Spacers:

As you may know, the original clips that go in the light tube bracket holes are not available - so had to find an improved solution. While at Home Depot for a good hour, I found some grommets that work perfectly and snap right into the light tube holes. Since they are rubber and the perfect size, they should work better than the original metal rings to keep the bulb secure. As far as the holes for the "lock doors" and rear defrost bulbs (I opted to cut the holes to exact size instead of just knocking a square section out of the bracket as the original), I found a grommet and plastic spacer that worked perfectly together to keep any light from bleeding as well as hopefully hold the bulb sockets nice and snug (unlike the original which tends to just fall out if you don't wrap it in electrical tape). Below are is the information if anyone is interested as well as a view of the spacers snug in the grommets for the "lock doors" and rear defrost.

Photo1-4.jpg
Photo1-1.jpg
Photo1-5.jpg


Concerns/Questions:

I have only rough tested the grommets in combination with the bulbs and loose sockets as far as a truly "perfect" fit (so far so good) so am crossing my fingers it all works as planned. Another concern is that my grommets might melt due to the high heat that the bulbs produce. In that case, I have to ditch this plan or try LEDs. If I go with LEDs, does anyone have any experience swapping them out on this panel? Type or model number? Will it produce the right light to illuminate the decal colors correctly? Thanks everyone!

EDIT: I got brave and just tested the neopreme rubber grommet over a high heat open gas flame and there was no distortion or softening. It should handle bulb heat unless I am totally missing something...?

[kajcienski]

All systems "go" and I have reached the final hurdle (a biggie) - the HVAC panel graphic overlay. I'm not sure if anyone else has had experience in this area, but have found it incredibly difficult to find a proper graphic overlay specialist to agree to take on this project. I did get one quote from a respected company but it ended up over the 3k mark to produce 5 prototypes. Yikes! This price even included the fact that I had prepared all of the design files. Unless I can convince 30 people to commit, I just can't see that being a rational choice especially since the whole fun of this project is finding creative ways to make it work low cost. So, I have ventured out into the "do-it-yourself graphic overlay" arena and might have cracked it, or at least found a respectable solution.

After a ton of research and experimenting with different materials, the following is what I have come up with:

I found a special high heat resistant 4mil polyester film used in silk screening (polyester or vinyl is also used for true graphic overlays) that comes "frosted" or rather "textured" on one or both sides - also compatible with laser printers. The texturing helps with toner adhesion and gives the decal the correct surface look. What I then did is I printed the reverse image of the AC panel graphic on the 8.5 X 11 film sheet using a laser printer. While this does not result in an overlay with the exact surface texture the original DeLorean decal had, it matches the texture and look of more modern car decals and am very happy with the outcome.

Now in terms of getting the image to look and perform correctly when illuminated, I had to go through several steps.

For the colored graphics on the overlay, it looked great after printing when placing the overlay on a white surface. Remember that for any graphic that is white in color, the printer went sans toner and is meant to rely on the white paper it is printed on. The black toner meant to block out light looked perfectly even but when shining light through it, the light bled quite a bit. To fix this, I simply altered the main graphics file so that all graphics were white and therefore left the first pass of color alone and only used black toner where needed. After running the film sheet through the printer 5 more times (again, only printing the areas where I needed the light to be blocked), I had achieved total "black-out" and no light penetration through the desired area. Now I have a "decal" that looks great sitting on a white sheet of paper but clear in spots that are suppose to be white and washed out in colored areas (due to the small amount of toner) when held up to the light or when backlit.

The next step is building up the light gels to adhere to the back of the polyester film to make it look color correct in daylight AND when backlit. As I just mentioned, the printed decal looks correct but needs a white surface to achieve the true color in areas where there is a thin layer of color toner meant to be backlit and white where there is no toner at all. I turned to a heavily frosted diffusion light gel as the next layer. This will not only take care of the needed white layer but will help with even light distribution. However, the decal will still look "washed out" when held up to the light again due to the micro thin toner.

To fix the "washed out" look when lit, matching color gels must be used as the 3rd layer to the decal to provide a rich color when backlit. Living in Manhattan, I was lucky to have a super mega supplier of light gels and took my time matching gels to each of the desired colors. This 3rd layer gave the overlay the correct look when lit - brilliant!

The last step (which I am currently on) is to adhere all 3 layers permanently and cut it out. Since the film and gels are meant to withstand high heat (and assuming the adhesive can do the same), I don't anticipate any issues with car heat deforming the decal. I am planning to throw the finished decal into my other car and let it bake for a month to be sure.

I'll follow up with step-by-step pictures after finishing it up in the next week or two - assuming I don't botch up the adhesive and cutting the darn thing out. Wish me luck!



For fun, here are the presentation blueprints for the decal I am going to go uber nerd on and hang in the garage.

http://www.dreamartists.com/FINAL-De...eLorean-4a.pdf

[jawn101]

Good luck, Matt! You'll get it.