What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[DMC5180]

Sunday: Had 2 dents removed from my Hood By Chris Nicholson (The Master) It's pure Magic to see a true Craftsman at work.

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Monday: Had NEW UV protected DMC (Olympia) Windshield installed at DMCMW. Plus the A-pillar covers were replaced with Reinforced NOS covers I Purchased 16 years ago in anticipation of the day the windshield would be replaced. Boy am I glad to see those Crappy originals finally gone They've been an eye sore for since the day I bought the car.

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I also had been plagued with ignition misfiring whenever I had to drive in rain. The only original ignition parts that had not been replaced were the Coil wire (radio noise overbraided type) and Coil both showed signs of arc tracking. I replaced those items this afternoon. I won't know if that fixes the problem till I have to drive in rain again.

The reason for the the Dent and Glass work were due to an unfortunate mishap in the Garage last Fall.

[dvonk]

nice, Chris Nicholson does it again!

youll have to let us know if you can tell a difference with your new UV windshield.

[Dangermouse]

Pulled it out of the paint booth and rinsed some dust off...

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..now, lots of elbow grease.

Holy crap! The rumors are true. Ron does actually have a car!

[jawn101]

Went for another drive and enjoyed having working doors. Sometimes it really is the small things

Got out the label maker and labeled some non-standard things (modified lock module, relays for door actuators, solid state RPM relay, etc) in my relay compartment. I don't think I'll ever sell this car, but I have no intention of being called a DPO if I do.

[SIMid]

Got all my shipping dents massaged out last week, I'm over the moon!! They did an excellent job! Just have to now try and get the scratches out with the blending pads, just light surface ones.

Worked out a possible reason why my A/C worked occasionally (in another post). Need to order some MORE parts again.

[dmc6960]

Took apart the remainder of the passenger door. The project balloon is ready to burst with the way it is inflated now. I originally planned to just removed the drop glass and the power regulator, but now all of the glass seals, channels, and surrounds are out as well. The fixed glass will likely come out tomorrow. The stuff just wasn't sealed worth crap! I also just learned that my passenger door doesn't have the finishing rubber seal on the divider channel. My drivers door does but apparently I never really looked at the passenger side.

Here is the door as it sits now...
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And all the freshly removed components laying on the old windshield...
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Here is what apparently was causing the scratches on the outside of the drop glass...
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The outer wipe seal is attached o the door with three tabs. Each one has this sharp nub in it to lock it in place. My guess is that glass flexing which was occurring while the window moved up caused it to the hit this and scratch the glass. I *think* there is a factory part to cover these to prevent scratches. Part number 108215 - Rub Pad, Drop Glass. It's not illustrated but the description lists it as 3 per side.

Why was my window flexing so much when moving?...
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Wow, dual breakage of the worm gear guide! This is why you don't go 120,000 miles on a stock regulator.

In addition to resealing all the glass, replacing the drop glass, and installing a new regulator; the door will also recieve some additional soundproofing. There will be a few minimal pieces of Dynamat Xtreme installed on the inside of the outer door skin, to lower it's resonance frequency. Certain open areas will be given a closed-cell acoustical foam treatment, and the backside of the trim panels may also get a loaded mass damper layer added. I'm going to carefully measure what is added to the door as not to overload it. After this year (or when the budget allows) the lock solenoid will probably be replaced with an actuator and the stainless door guides may be swapped out with plastic ones. Those will hopefully bring the door back in check from whatever I add this year.

Wow, what a night.

[jawn101]

Drove it to work. Noticed on the way in (it was dark out) that the battery light was occasionally flickering. Oops - forgot to triple check the tension after we removed the upper bracket to replace the rocker cover gasket.

Tightened up the alternator when I got home - I think the belt I got from Hervey is a half inch too long for his alternator, since I have to pull the alt alllllll the way to the max position of the tensioner bracket. One of these days I'll replace it.

Noticed while I was down there that SOMETHING is still seeping oil. I can't tell what since there's so much grime. Emptied my last can of brake cleaner around the oil pressure sender, we'll see if it gets wet again. I know the rear main seal is probably leaking but I'm not sure if that would account for the pattern of mess I'm seeing. That said, I don't know *WHAT* would account for the pattern.

[opethmike]

I forget which one is on which side, but the oil light and pressure senders have both leaked on my car, and they both made HUGE messes. Replace them both.

[jawn101]

I forget which one is on which side, but the oil light and pressure senders have both leaked on my car, and they both made HUGE messes. Replace them both.

I hear ya man. I did the idiot light (driver's side) when I first got the car. Pressure gauge (pass side) appears to be original. I'd hate to replace it because it actually seems *gasp* accurate! But if it's making a mess I will have no choice. Now that it's cleaned up I will drive around a week or so and see what the deal is. It is possible the sender itself is leaking as the cap appears to be crimped on to the main body and I can feel it is a little loose. That might account for the "spray pattern" better than a leak at the copper sealing washer, as the sender is extended away from the block by a few inches. Seepage at the washer would probably be a more confined mess.

[Ron]

I'd hate to replace it because it actually seems *gasp* accurate!