Go for the carpet, man. It's a great deal. I bet black would look really sharp in there too.
Location: Sacramento-ish
Posts: 4,408
My VIN: 02100
Club(s): (NCDMC) (DCUK)
Go for the carpet, man. It's a great deal. I bet black would look really sharp in there too.
Jon
1981 DMC-12 #02100. July 1981. 5-speed, black, grooved w/flap.
restoration log, March 2011 to present
full and detailed photo restoration log
Location: Omaha, NE
Posts: 1,755
My VIN: loading, please wait...
i should, since i live in "Little Mexico" (i.e., South O)... we're a minority in our neighborhood.
im sure everyone cares.from Wikipedia:
The largest concentration of Mexicans and Mexican Americans in Omaha lived near the packing houses and Union Stockyards of South Omaha.
Today the majority of Mexicans and Mexican-Americans live in South Omaha, also called the Southhood or South O. A strong Mexican-American presence thrives there, with numerous public murals and exhibitions of Mexican culture throughout the community. Along with a variety of businesses, churches and community organizations, the area features El Museo Latino. [...] In 1998, the community was estimated to have 20,000 Latino families.![]()
Last edited by dvonk; 04-20-2012 at 12:38 AM.
Obtain-O-Meter: 128%
as of 2016/08/04
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Location: Atlanta OTP GA
Posts: 7,085
My VIN: 2743
Club(s): (SEDOC) (DCH) (DCUK) (DOC-UK)
Dermot
VIN 2743, B/A, Frame 2227, engine 2320
I don't always drive cars, but when I do, I prefer DeLoreans
http://www.will-to-live.org
No-one is to stone anyone, even, and I want to make this absolutely clear, even if they do say "carburetor"
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Forget Border Patrol. I need a hat with "INS" on it.
None of the local parts houses have front or rear brake pads in stock. Sadness.
Edit: holy crap, you can actually buy those hats!
Last edited by Farrar; 04-20-2012 at 10:27 AM.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
I almost forgot what the old guy at Autozone told me a year ago when I asked for brake pads for a 77 Mercuri Capri. He basically told me he didn't have any in stock and that I should get rid of the old Capri since its getting harder to get parts for cars that old. I just kept my mouth shut and left.
Don't forget you will need DOT4 brake fluid.
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
Success! O'Reilly is overnighting my brake pads (front: 1974 Mercury Capri, rear: 1993 Jaguar XJS Base) from their hub to my local store, and I will pick them up first thing tomorrow morning, along with a good amount of DOT 4.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
Location: Fort Lauderdale
Posts: 4,740
My VIN: 02613
Club(s): (DCF)
I will be doing all of the work, remember? You can just sip Cheerwine and supervise.
Well, "Brake Pad and Final Drive Oil Seal Day" has been postponed thanks to an incredible amount of rain which has just been dumped on the region in just the past 45 minutes. (And it's still raining.) Nonetheless, I went out and bought front and rear brake pads, brake fluid, gear oil, seal puller, drain plug socket set, and battery trickle charger.
At this point I have all of the tools necessary to change that transmission oil seal myself -- except for the seal installation tool, which I can rent from the auto parts store. Prior to today I was planning on using Steve's seal puller and drain plug socket, but those tools weren't that expensive.
3.0L, automatic, carbureted
Location: Reedsburg, WI
Posts: 4,042
My VIN: 5180
Club(s): (DMWC) (DCUK)
Farrar ,
Did those pads come with anti-squeal shims? I just put on a fresh set of Ceramic pads (so called low dust) I bought from Hervey 4 years ago. After about a day of driving (break-in) they squeal like pig now. The pads appeared to have an anti-squeal backing bonded on them. I guess I'm going to have try and resurface the disc and put anti-squeal compound on them. Since I already had the car up on jack stands for New tires, it took all of 3 minutes per corner. Be sure to push the pistons back with the old pads in place then remove them. I found that a 90° nail puller works well for this. I used a screwdriver styled pry-bar facing inboard on the inside pad and the short end of the 90° nail bar on the outer pad. All I did was catch the pad backplate (with pins in place) then leveraged the bars against each other creating an outward (push back) movement. Once there was enough space between the disc and pad I slid the nail bar between them leveraged them the rest of the way back. Eventually, I am going to do a caliper rebuild, but I'm not ready for that yet. Btw. It is recommended that when you push the pistons back, you open the bleeder and drain the Old fluid out rather than push back up the system then Do fresh fluid bleed.
DENNIS
VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II, EPS, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.
Location: Baton Rouge, Louisiana
Posts: 3,047
My VIN: 16510 and carbureted
Club(s): (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)
A c clamp works good too for pushing the pistons back in. I have two in my tool bag.