Do they need to be clipped in?
I would be more than happy to come by after work and take some springs off your hands too if you'll be home.
Do they need to be clipped in?
I would be more than happy to come by after work and take some springs off your hands too if you'll be home.
No, they're held in by tension. You can remove them, if needed, with a little bit of effort.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
Give me a shout. I'm done with work at 7:00 tonight.
Farrar
So, interesting fact I learned today: a piece of 2" pipe bent properly to go from the output of the cat out through the muffler exit on the driver's side is nowhere NEAR as loud as I expected. And because of this- and the fact it's impossible to get the new exhaust on and finish everything else up and test it all out- I'll be heading out East with just that straight pipe and no muffler. I have my suspicions that my cat is hollow and is partially acting like a muffler anyway. :P
Since I've been completely unable to find a 1/8" NPT hose barb locally and can't get one in from elsewhere fast enough, I think I'm going to tee the cruise control vacuum off the spark advance line. It's closest to the cruise unit, and is also the closest in size to the line that goes to the cruise unit.
You don't want ported vacuum for the cruise bucket; you want manifold vacuum. Put a T in your brake booster or HVAC vacuum line instead.
Farrar
Hmmm. I'm kind of loathe to T into the brake booster line, especially since the cruise installation expressly warns not to. Not that I don't think I could stop the car if the cruise sapped all the vacuum boost to the brakes mind you, but still. How about the crankcase vent/PCV connection? Is that manifold or ported vacuum? I could T into that between the carb and the valve.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Here's where the cruise bucket is mounted in my setup (doesn't matter for this since vacuum line is cheap, but I took the picture, so :P)
Attachment 2883
Also, for a laugh:
The finest "performance" exhaust system $50 will buy. :P
Attachment 2881Attachment 2882
I find it hard to believe that nobody in a big city like Lexington sells barbed hose fittings.
You all are making this way more complicated than it needs to be.
(BTW: I am talking about the port that Farrar and Garen use for their modulator valves -- for 5 speed users that port is just lying fallow).
Bill Robertson
#5939
Oh, I can find no shortage of barbed hose fittings- in sizes larger than 1/8" NPT. Nobody has anything more than a plug or a coupler in 1/8". Home Depot literally has like 3 1/8" NPT items. I'm going to check with some specialty plumbing places today in hopes they'll have one, but I don't know how many will be open. It's just not that common of a part it seems for most places to think it profitable to stock them...Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
1/8 is not an uncommon size. Your PCV valve came with 1/8 threads. Your carburetor uses 1/8 fittings (the 4100 I just installed on a school bus has threads on its ported barb as well as the fuel inlet). Your fuel filter bracket was made with 1/8 fittings. The stock thermostat housing bleeder is 1/8 BSPT (threads are so short that 1/8 NPT will work). Generic electric fuel pumps come with 1/8 threads (you could buy a spare pump and use one of the barbs that comes with it, albeit 5/16 hose most likely). Etc.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Try your basic hardware stores or NAPA. But like Bill said....I can find them in Lowes and other home stores.
If the instructions forbid it, then by all means ignore what I said! I obviously remembered incorrectly.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashyukun
Farrar
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?915-Carbs-for-a-PRV
That thread got closed pretty dang quick.
This thread really is the best place for him to find carburetion specific info. Apparently the OP did not know it even exists -- Sean could have included an explanatory sentence to that effect.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Hello Martin,
We have made two conversions to carburetor fuel delivery and offer all or part of the complete K-Jet systems from fuel pump to injectors including ECUs. Reasonable offers accepted. Thanks, Byrne
For clarity: Byrne is counting the number of conversions he has done himself, not the total number of carbureted DeLoreans altogether (there are more than 2 carbureted DeLoreans in existence, including apparently this one in Florida that neither Byrne nor I had anything to do with: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?90...ull=1#post9439).
Bill Robertson
#5939
I believe there is one on youtube as well that had nothing to do with Bill or Byrne. Apparently more people seem to understand carburetors than just Bill and a few of us other people.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
My guess is, with a proper manifold, anyone with a little carburetor knowledge could convert one of these cars to carburetion.
With a suitable intake manifold, you can put one or more carburetors on any gasoline engine (yes, I know the same can be said for MegaSquirt...).
Bill Robertson
#5939
True, but we don't need any special software or computers to make ours work. The hardest part of installation for us is the 5 minutes it takes to run a new fuel.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
If fuel delivery from the physical properties of air pressure alone is important to an owner, then carburetion is indeed be an option that owner may want to consider.
Bill Robertson
#5939
Well, after a lot of calling around, I finally found that an Ace Hardware across town actually had 1/8" NPT hose barbs, and drove over and picked up two (yes, I only need one- but they're cheap). Unfortunately, my road test with the cruise unit was unsuccessful, and everything I've checked so far has worked as it should. The most likely culprit now is that the magnet sensor isn't close enough to the magnets to pick them up- something I'll attempt to rectify in the morning.
However... that's about the only negative at the moment- and something that was new and not essential for the car to be able to travel. Everything else necessary for me to leave in the morning to drive the car from here in Lexington to north of Philly is done, and I took my girlfriend out to dinner half an hour away ("You know, most people don't go LOOKING for places to eat that require a bit of driving..." :P) to make sure everything behaved on the highway, and got an unexpected good test of the coolant system when we got stuck in a traffic jam for 20 minutes (in 90-degree ambient).
All that has to be done in the morning is to finish loading the car back up and to rinse it off again- I washed it in a real hurry this afternoon, and got a bit liberal with the BKF- and I get enough bad cocaine jokes as it is without having the car actually covered in white powder.... :P
The Good:
The cruise control works.
I'm safely in my hotel room in PA.
The Bad:
I got here some 3 hours later than I should have after the car died at the end of a construction zone, leading to my replacing the fuel pump and running a new fuel line... and still not being convinced they were the problem. But, after that it didn't have any fuel problems and didn't die... though I now get to track down more 1/8" NPT fittings HERE because I couldnt get everything off the old pump (which I am saving, as I think it's actually fine...) but thankfully was able to rig something up with what came with the new pump.
My evaporator drain plug clogged, flooding the passenger carpet (again). Not critical, but damn annoying (and smelly)
For some reason all my accessory lights are behving weird- if working at all. Wish I still had the instructions for Dave's solid-state dimmer, though I think this goes beyond that...
My iPhone crashed some 50 miles after getting the car going again... Thankfully I'm old-school enough to carry an atlas in my cars since it was my gps too.
The Best:
This day is now over and nothing ELSE can go wrong (until tomorrow)
Are you sure your RPM relay didn't fail? I've had real bad luck running them more than 9-10 hours straight.
Pull the fuel line off the carb, let it hang down into a container of choice (motel ice bucket), then jump the pump. Flow is about the same as a garden hose barely cracked open -- fuel is not going to shoot out everywhere. If gas comes out, your pump is fine.
You can draw through a stationary fuel pump no problem -- install barbs and electrical terminals on your spare pump in advance so it can be spliced in right behind the original pump if necessary (just let it lay on top of the tank).
Bill Robertson
#5939
Since the problems I had earlier this year with the fuel, I've been running a jumper that has the pump running whenever the key is on 'run'. Ironically after things on this trip I'm faintly convinced that it's not the RPM relay at all. I may put it back in so I don't have to worry as much about having the key on.
Frankly, I'm not even convinced that it was the pump OR the fuel line... After I'd replaced both, I was still not seeing fuel flow. I finally pulled the line off the carb itself and put it in a water bottle and fired up the pump, and then it started flowing properly. Before then, it was behaving like the line was getting pressurized but nothing would flow. It's behaving now, but it still makes me nervous... Whenever the compressor for the A/C would kick on and there'd be a hiccup in the engine's power my heart would skip a beat.
Hey Bill, now that I've disconnected and removed the K-Jet wiring in the engine compartment, I plan on removing the Lambda box as well, but I can't tell where that light blue wire goes. Is it accessible for removal or should I just coil it up out of the way somewhere? I thought I'd ask since you've already done this on your car.
Trying to make as much room as I can for new 6AWG ground cables. :)
Thanks!
Farrar
Maybe I am missing something but did you replace the fuel filter? Its a $3 part at Autozone.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashyukun
As far as the AC cycling and your engine loosing power, just bump up your idle during the summer. Simply turn on your AC and adjust your idle to about 900 with the compressor running. It will idle a little high when you aren't using the AC but where I live the AC is always on during the summer.
Once this summer heat is gone you can turn off the AC and adjust your idle for the winter. This is my strategy and it has been working fine.
I replaced the fuel filter after the incident a few months back with a clear plastic one so I can see when there's fuel flowing and when not (what I really want is a flow sensor so I could set up a warning light in the cabin).Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
It's not that the A/C was causing idling problems, it's that when it kicks on you can feel it- and it feels somewhat like the carb starting to be starved of fuel...
A carb running dry is a very distinctive feeling. The engine does not stop instantaneously -- it shudders & stumbles for a few seconds, and sometimes even detonates as the mixture gets leaner & leaner. If your engine stops instantly, like flipping off a switch, the problem may well be ignition.
Bill Robertson
#5939
I know- exactly why the A/C compressor kicking on was making me nervous- it felt like the engine starting to stumble as the carb ran dry, in other words the first sign that something might be wrong, and that I might need to be looking out for a safe place to get off the road very shortly.Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
It handled the drive up from Quakertown to Lehigh Mall to get my phone fixed without any problems including getting stuck in traffic. I also now know that the pump and the line should be good, so I know to focus on the stuff in the engine bay if I have problems again... which hopefully I won't.
There's a few hardware stores near the mall too, so I can track down the 1/8" NPT coupler that I need and some plastic tubing and potentially even stop by Harbor Freight to pick up a rotary tool to do some fixes for the annoying A/C water problem.
For what purpose is the tubing intended? Not all plastics can handle gasoline (or even worse -- gasohol).
If your engine ever stops again, and you suspect fuel delivery, pop the top off the carb *BEFORE* re-energizing the pump (you want to see what was in the bowl at the time it stopped). That is how I recently diagnosed a damaged pickup tube in one of my church's school buses. Drivers were reporting problems, but as soon as the fuel stopped sloshing around they were able to restart the bus and bring it back. I had to catch it red handed on the side of the road *BEFORE* the engine was restarted (bowl was totally dry, but as soon as the pump was re-energized fuel refilled it normally).
Bill Robertson
#5939
The tubing is to run a drain tube for the evaporator, so (hopefully) it just has to deal with water...Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
When you were stuck in traffic, was your car in an elevated curve? The tube that is supposed to cool the blower motor, but which usually just carries condensed water to it and rusts the bearings, will flood the passenger footwell if the driver's side of the car is elevated for too long. I rerouted mine to the outside world. It's a stupid idea anyway -- none of my other cars have hoses going from the heater/evaporator boxes to their blower motors (which is probably why the bearings in my other cars' blower motors haven't rusted).
I am assuming you already have the coil boot mod on the driver's side drain:
Attachment 2928
Bill Robertson
#5939
It's the driver's side drain that clogged and I'm working to fix. I'm planning on routing the hose from the drain there down to a new hole I plan to drill in the passenger's footwell- that way even if it does clog again, there will also be a way for water to get out of the footwell and it won't just pool there like it has when this has happened before...
I also plan to pull the fuel pump and install it in the boot 'properly' after work, since I now have the coupler I was missing on the road.
I did the new hole drain thing and love it. If I run the AC for 5 minutes in humid air I will get a very large puddle of water on the floor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ashyukun
Wait -- there are drains on both sides? I have never noticed this. And chances are that by the time I have working a/c both of those will be clogged so I will have to fix them. Can anyone illustrate or tell me exactly where they are, please?
Farrar
There is only one stock AC drain.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
OK, thanks.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
Farrar
There are two holes in the evaporator box. The hole closest to the driver is the condensation drain. The hole closest to the passenger is supposed to blow air on the blower motor. The air hole is raised slightly above the drain hole, which will keep water from running out of it as long as the vehicle is level side to side, but I have discovered that when the vehicle is tilted towards the passenger side condensed water will in fact run out of it as well (eventually causing the blower motor bearings to rust). I'm sure the air hose seemed like a good idea on paper, but in actual practice it doesn't as well as planned. How many other vehicles have you seen with an air hose to the blower motor anyway? My blower motor bearings used to squeal, but they haven't raised a peep since I rerouted that hose to the outside world (I PB'd the mess out of the bearings, then packed them with lithium).
Bill Robertson
#5939
You have a condensation drain on the drivers side? Mine does not. So where did the stock drain hose run up the frame on the drivers side?Quote:
Originally Posted by content22207
Driver's side of the box, the side of the box closest to the driver.
My condensation drain has the coil boot mod, which is less likely to clog than the OEM hose & elbow, and which is easily removed for cleaning if necessary (it's rubber, so squishy).
Bill Robertson
#5939
There is only one drain. The hole on the passenger side of the box is right next to the blower motor and is meant to cool the motor while it runs. You should have an 'L'-shaped tube from this hole to the side of the blower motor.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
So where is your drain located?Quote:
Originally Posted by ramblinmike