I'll tell you one thing- With Bill missing and talk of his spirit possessing Steve and his spirit possessing someone else, I am NOT drinking anything at Branch Dahlonega!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by sean
I'll tell you one thing- With Bill missing and talk of his spirit possessing Steve and his spirit possessing someone else, I am NOT drinking anything at Branch Dahlonega!!!Quote:
Originally Posted by sean
Whats the problem?Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron
The best thing anyone can do to make their car as reliable as possile is to understand it.
Easy to say!
I thought I'd post this link to a friend of mine in the Alpine club whose thread I read today. he's sunk umpteen thousands into restoring and modifying a GTA. It ain't just DeLorean owners who think their cars are cursed...
http://www.renaultalpineownersclub.c...pic.php?t=5380
(and I'd like to point out that Simon's avatar is the source of a long running joke)
Oh, and the starter and alternator circuits are identical to the DeLorean's.
I'm thinking (other than trash, electrical) you might be using the wrong pumps or pluming depending on the carb(s)...cycling running wide open or labored, or, mostly pumping through the internal by-pass valve...The ones I see posted around here might be being over worked since they aren't pressure regulated and run ~2 times the pressure required by the float's needle valve, most of the time. They never rest (they are not made to take it like todays internal pumps...diferent "style"). In the old days, we used to use AC adjustable pressure regulated rail mounted pumps or one matched to (slightly above) the float requirements on racers to pitch mechanical pumps and get rid of the drag... The floats needle valve's on-off pressure is not that tight which allows for even more rest time...Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
Just a guess and food for thought...I'll see if I can dig up the post if you want or we can talk about it Saturday.
+1Quote:
Originally Posted by DCUK Martin
Reinventing the wheel has it's own problems, not to mention the dominoes made of worm cans that cross breading brings.
I was sort of thinking the pump I have might be too high of a psi pump, but Bill has installed pumps with these specs on many other cars without any problems. I'm not going to rule anything out, but like I said, it could just be a ground issue. We may or may not know the answer to this by the end of Saturday. If my pump fails then perhaps I need to look into a lower PSI pump. If my pump doesnt fail, then perhaps the direct ground connection resolved it. If it is ground related I will correctly fix it by eventually replacing the inertia switch and installing a full car ground bus.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron
Do you know if they are locking down or ??? Ever open one up afterwords?
Bill using the same plumming, carb (I guess I know that answer;-)
This is where I don't say it would be easier to work out k-jet :devil:
Maybe if you would leave the accumulator in when you go carb, it would ease the peak pressures in the pump. I never knew why Bill insisted on running a new line.
Worried about an accumulator full of fuel dumping in the engine or on the ground even when a "little" rollover breaks nothing...or #?Lbs? ;-)Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
I actually thought about installing a fuel pump meant for EFI (30 to 45 PSI) and then using an inline fuel pressure regulator to dial the pressure down to 6 PSI. You could probably use the stock fuel lines for this -- swap the regulator for the accumulator, perhaps? -- unless the regulator has a return line, in which case you'd have to mount it elsewhere. Some regulators have a return and some don't; I am not sure what might be required, but there's more than one way to skin a cat.
For what it's worth, I think running a fresh ground from the inertia switch would extend the lifespan of DeLorean fuel pumps.
Farrar