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Quote:
Originally Posted by qwerk
:lol: Thanks for the clarification. :)Quote:
Originally Posted by qwerk
I thought about Velcro, but I would worry that the adhesive would give up when it gets hot inside the car. (And it does get hot -- over 160°F in summer.)
Farrar
Apropos of nothing, I just thought I'd mention that my PT Turbo, which gets less than 17 MPG in city driving, stunned me by getting almost 24 MPG at highway speeds on my trip from La. to NC. I set the cruise control at 64 MPH and saw the "Avg. MPG" readout on the dashboard climb and climb and climb until I had to stop to get gas. I got from Peachtree City, Ga. to Charlotte, NC on less than half a tank -- which means less than 7.5 gallons. Nice!
I hope everyone is having a happy Christmahannukwanzaayule :)
Farrar
Now that it's 2012 I mentioned to my girlfriend yesterday that I am very pleased that the only things I need to fix on #2613 between now and DCS Orlando are the air conditioning and cruise control.
So naturally, last night I had a dream where I was driving the DeLorean and everything went wrong, from the defroster to the windows, and fluids started spewing from underneath the car like a gag from a silent film.
We're off to a good start, at least mentally...
Happy New Year, everybody!
Farrar
Since I unexpectedly had a free day from work yesterday and my college classes for this semester don't start until tomorrow, I had some car time yesterday afternoon. :-) Result: I double-checked the connection at the inertia switch. When I put my multimeter between the terminals on the plug, I get higher voltage than I do when I put the + terminal on the plug and the nearest body bolt, so I think the problem I had with the fuel pump dying last summer was a problem with connectivity but rather the result of a quality control issue with the manufacturer of the fuel pump. I had lost the little plastic cap that sits on top of the plunger -- it had fallen between the body tub and the carpet. I found it yesterday and put it back on. Confirmed function of the inertia switch by lifting the plunger. So all is well there.
I decided to install the new cigarette lighter, but was unable to because I could not separate the green plastic ring from the cylinder it's snapped onto. Scraped one of my knuckles pretty badly in the process as the little screwdriver I was trying to use to push the tab back slipped and tried to draw blood in revenge. So I just put the hole plug back in.
One thing I noticed while underneath the dashboard: evidently, a previous owner of my car "fixed" the kneepads from coming loose by putting thread inserts in them. These inserts are themselves beginning to come out and the kneepads are rattly and shaky. Unfortunately the material of the kneepads themselves was split by the insertion of the thread inserts (probably the P.O. did not drill the appropriate-sized hole). It looks like I will have to replace all of my kneepads before June when my girlfriend rides in the car with me and puts her feet all over them. I am currently thinking of options for replacing the kneepads -- I will probably make them out of stiff foam and wire them for footwell lighting. I have lots of black vinyl to make kneepad covers if necessary.
Farrar
I found the same problem but luckly I found it before I put it in the car. So I cut the little tabs off the green plastic. But that change required me to hot glue the metal part to the plastic or it would pull out when I used it.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
3416 is like this too. I tried JB Welding a proper threaded bolt shank in there but the JB weld didn't stick - it all came out in a plug. I'm exploring other repair options; I'll let you know if I figure out a workable solution.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Same thing happened to me. The material the kneepad is made out of seems to be slightly slippery, not to the touch but to any adhesive or epoxy I try to throw at it.Quote:
Originally Posted by AdmiralSenn
I am thinking of carefully removing the kneepads' vinyl covers and crafting new kneepads out of hard foam from the craft store. But then I will have the same problem of how to affix the kneepads to the car. Perhaps a wooden back with thread inserts in it? Perhaps neodymium magnets on the back of the kneepads and a strip of steel on the fiberglass? My mind is wandering at this point; haven't settled on any one solution yet.
Farrar
I appologize if I missed something but if all you need is to recover your knee pads, I've got a guy in Hammond that does excellent work.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
He recovered my passenger kneepad for just $50.
Auto Image - Joel Oliver - (985) 215-1302 www.myautoimage.com
Thanks, but I have the opposite problem -- the vinyl is OK, but the kneepads themselves are falling off because the studs are coming out the back.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
Farrar
If the holes are too big, can't you just get different anchors?
(I'm not familiar with what you are doing.)