The red wire is 12 gauge wire ran from the RPM relay to the fuel pump with a 20A inline fuse. Got tired of fuse #7 melting down, so I introduced what I call "Fuse 7A." I run a power wire straight from the battery to the RPM relay, and then another wire from the RPM relay to the fuel pump.
Here is the post and link documenting the vast majority of the work - read up on the rest of the thread in the link here:
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?59...ll=1#post84928
So far, Fuse #7 has been cold/to mildly warm (maybe a 3 to 4 on a 1-10 scale of arctic cold to hell fire). It NEVER gets hot now - a lil' warm, yes - but hot = not at all anymore.
DMCTalk.org Moderator
Actual snippet of a conversation from Sept 2013:
Me: Eddie, I can't wait to get the car back when you're done with it.
Eddie: Yeah, you'll be able to give the car gas, and it won't be - like - embarrassing....
Location: Sunfield, Michigan, USA
Posts: 2,444
My VIN: 1798
My review and installation of the SMC 410 check valve from US Plastics Corp, including photos, can be viewed at DMCToday.com for those interested:
http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.p...ull=1#post3911
DMCTalk.org Moderator
Actual snippet of a conversation from Sept 2013:
Me: Eddie, I can't wait to get the car back when you're done with it.
Eddie: Yeah, you'll be able to give the car gas, and it won't be - like - embarrassing....
Location: Sunfield, Michigan, USA
Posts: 2,444
My VIN: 1798
For those interested, I stopped and restarted the car about 6 times today, post external in-line check valve installation, over roughly 160 miles of travel, 5 of which were hot starts, and experienced no starting problems to speak of!
Thus I'm DEFINITELY thinking that the combo unit's internal check valve FAILED (or is possibly just insufficient for the back pressures required by a stock/OEM system) - and keep in mind that according to DMCH, I have the revised combo unit that shouldn't be exhibiting any check valve issues.
This is why I personally recommend adding an external in-line check valve with every installation of the combo unit, regardless of what DMCH says about it. DPI is already doing this to all cars that show up for service with the combo unit installed. And as far as external in-line check valves go for our stock/OEM fuel systems, the best choice is the SMC 410 series solid brass with integrated 5/16" barbs, 302 grade stainless steel internals, and a viton seal. Cracking pressure is 1psi and it will hold a back-pressure up to 500psi, thus not only will it get the job done, but it should last a lifetime as well.
The valve is manufactured by SMC - Specialty Manufacturing Co. out of the metro Twin Cities area of Minnesota.
http://www.specialtymfg.com/
US Plastics Corp, of Lima, Ohio, is the retailer that had the best price on the valve at the time of my purchase/recommendation.
USPC also offers shipping via USPS Priority Mail for the same price (or cheaper) than regular ground. Thus, a purchase of the SMC 410 valve supports American workers at every level of the supply chain from manufacturing to delivery! Again, my total, including shipping, came to $17.46.
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=85394
Anyone who would even consider purchasing any of the other external in-line check valves is out of their mind IMHO![]()
Location: St. Louis, MO
Posts: 231
My VIN: 10084
Agreed. I'm still having good luck with the SUR & R valve. Although more expensive I was able to get one very quickly. Incidentally, a quick phone call to SUR&R (1.800.390.3996 (available 8:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m., U.S. Eastern Standard Time) verified that they are made in the USA.
Michael Todd
St. Louis
DMCTalk.org Moderator
Actual snippet of a conversation from Sept 2013:
Me: Eddie, I can't wait to get the car back when you're done with it.
Eddie: Yeah, you'll be able to give the car gas, and it won't be - like - embarrassing....