Hot start problem resolved due to failed check valve in the DMCH fuel pump

[Bitsyncmaster]

The red wire is 12 gauge wire ran from the RPM relay to the fuel pump with a 20A inline fuse. Got tired of fuse #7 melting down, so I introduced what I call "Fuse 7A." I run a power wire straight from the battery to the RPM relay, and then another wire from the RPM relay to the fuel pump.

Here is the post and link documenting the vast majority of the work - read up on the rest of the thread in the link here:

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?59...ll=1#post84928

So far, Fuse #7 has been cold/to mildly warm (maybe a 3 to 4 on a 1-10 scale of arctic cold to hell fire). It NEVER gets hot now - a lil' warm, yes - but hot = not at all anymore.

A 20 amp fuse should not even feel warm if your pump has the normal 7 amp draw. The relay compartment does get warm if you have the cover on it for a long drive. So is that what you feel (cover was on)? Can you measure the current draw?