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Thread: New front end issues: Torn steering rack boot, tie rod ends, and leaking brake fluid

  1. #1
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    New front end issues: Torn steering rack boot, tie rod ends, and leaking brake fluid

    After a long stretch of not getting work done on my car (winter and too many business trips), I finally had the time to finish replacing all the coolant hoses on the car. I finished with hoses at the front end of the car... In the process of taking the fuel tank closing plate off and working around the hoses near the radiator I uncovered the following issues:

    Fuel_Tank_Closing_Plate.jpgLeaking_Master_Cylinder.jpgTorn_Steering_Rack_Boot.jpgTorn_Tie_Rod_End.jpg

    The repair list seem to be a never ending story. :-)

    So, I've heard that it is not unusual for the fuel tank closing plate to be in bad shape. Is this one salvageable? Do I clean it up with a rotary wire brush to prep for re-coating? Now... The related question is if I have a master cylinder leak that also needs to be dealt with. I have no idea how long the closing plate has looked like this. I included a side shot of the servo unit and master cylinder. It looks like leak evidence to me, but I don't know if I need check further before ripping yet another component out of the car. Is it a clear that I'll need to replace the master cylinder based on what can be seen in this image?

    The next issues is torn boots on the steering rack and tie rod ends. What can I do here? Does the rack have to be replaced? Or, can I clean this one up, repack with grease, and install new boots? (Looks like they are called "bellows" in the parts manual.) I assume the tie rod ends need to be completely replaced.

    Thanks for any advice!
    -Luke

  2. #2
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    Your closing plate really doesn't look that bad it's definitely salvageable. Clean, prep & paint. I believe POR-15 is the popular choice, that's what I'll be using on mine.

  3. #3
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    Regarding the steering rack, do you have noticeable free play in the steering wheel? Reference the stitched seam at the top how much left/right movement do you have. If you have substantial movement you should consider steering rack replacement. That will kill several birds with one stone.

    Your closing plate can be refurbished. But I would have it sand blasted as opposed to wire brushing. That's just my preference. You can do as you see fit.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, EPS​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Your closing plate can be refurbished. But I would have it sand blasted as opposed to wire brushing. That's just my preference. You can do as you see fit.
    Hmm... I'm interested in the sand blasting idea. I've never had any sandblasting work done before, but I can see from a quick Google search that there are some shops in the area that do it. Could you tell me ballpark number for what I might spend to have the closing plate sandblasted?

    I also noticed that some of these shops offer power coating services too. Any thoughts about taking that approach to refinishing it?

  5. #5
    Senior Member Bitsyncmaster's Avatar
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    I drilled a few 1/4" holes in my closing plate to prevent water from collecting there. If you decide to do that, do it before you powder coat or POR15 it.
    Dave M vin 03572
    http://dm-eng.weebly.com/

  6. #6
    Senior Member DMC5180's Avatar
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    New front end issues: Torn steering rack boot, tie rod ends, and leaking brak...

    Quote Originally Posted by lsoasey View Post
    Hmm... I'm interested in the sand blasting idea. I've never had any sandblasting work done before, but I can see from a quick Google search that there are some shops in the area that do it. Could you tell me ballpark number for what I might spend to have the closing plate sandblasted?

    I also noticed that some of these shops offer power coating services too. Any thoughts about taking that approach to refinishing it?
    Ballpark estimates would depend on what you have them do. Just sandblast vs complete re-coating process.
    Blasting only $15-25. Then factor in materials for POR-15 or a powder coat process probably falls into $50-$75 total refinish cost.
    Last edited by DMC5180; 03-22-2015 at 10:13 AM.
    DENNIS

    VIN 5180, Frame 3652, STAGE II​, EPS​, DM-eng Solid State Solutions (RPM Rly, Dm.Lt.Mod., Fan Fail Mod. , FAN Rly, HS.Rly) , HID headlights, SPAX user since 2009, Eibach springs, M Adj. Rear LCA's, DPNW poly-sway bar kit, DMCEU LCA Stabilizer link kit, DMCMW Illuminated door sills, Aussie Illuminated SS Shifter plate, REAL MOMO EVO Steering wheel, DELOREANA Extended View Side Mirrors w/ Heaters, DELOREANA LED Door Lights.

  7. #7
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    Your fuel tank closing plate is definitely salvageable. Like others said, clean it up and coat it with POR-15.

    A torn boot on your steering rack alone shouldn't necessitate a complete replacement. You may only need the boot kit:

    http://store.delorean.com/p-7334-boo...rh-and-lh.aspx

    I don't remember if it comes with the grease as well or if that is only the rear drive axle boot kit that includes that.

    If you are going to replace the tie rod ends as well, have a closer inspection of the rest of the rack and check for play as mentioned. You may go the route of a completely new one, but that's quite the jump in price to go from a $42 boot kit plus two $24 tie rod end replacements to the new rack price of $429. Judgement call for you and what you feel better about.


    Sept. 81, auto, black interior

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    This kind of damage is typical after the brake master leaks brake fluid and melts the epoxy. If you really want to go all the way you need to remove the fuel tank and clean up the damage on the frame too. Definitely replace the torn seals on the tie rod ends and the steering rack. Before replacing the seals see just how much looseness (play) you have. If the parts are loose enough you may need to replace the part, not just the boots and seals. There is a good chance the parts are salvageable and all you have to do is the boots and seals. Be sure to measure so you can put everything back EXACTLY as you took it apart so you don't mess up the alignment. Probably a good idea to have it checked after you finish anyway. If you sandblast you really don't need to use POR-15 since you will be removing all of the rust. You only need POR-15 if you don't remove the rust. Like if you find rust on the frame and have to fix it in your garage and can't sandblast.
    David Teitelbaum

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    Quote Originally Posted by David T View Post
    This kind of damage is typical after the brake master leaks brake fluid and melts the epoxy. If you really want to go all the way you need to remove the fuel tank and clean up the damage on the frame too.
    Yes exact,y what Dave said, as the fluid had to run down something to get down there. This is what I found and fixed when I removed my tank a few years ago:


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    Quote Originally Posted by DMC5180 View Post
    Ballpark estimates would depend on what you have them do. Just sandblast vs complete re-coating process.
    Blasting only $15-25. Then factor in materials for POR-15 or a powder coat process probably falls into $50-$75 total refinish cost.
    Great... It helps to have this initial reference point. I'll probably start calling a few of the sandblasting shops around town tomorrow.

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