New carpet, soundproofing, and dynamat - any tips?

[Kenny_Z]

I put Fatmat in the doors of my Mustang and I agree, that stuff oozes everywhere. Unfortunately I put it on the floorboards of my D before I found this out. It's actually doing a decent job of cutting out the road noise. I like hearing the engine though so I don't want to cut too much of that out. And if there is droning it doesn't bother me. I have a V8 Mustang with dual exhaust, NOTHING out-drones her. She'll make you go insane on long drives.

[Lenny]

I'm wasting time today watching the "Cool Tools" Marathon on the DIY channel. anyway they showed a sound deadening product for walls in houses. I went to their web site and they have a material for vehicles.

http://www.acoustiblok.com/automotive-soundproofing.php

Does anyone know anything about it?

Here's the info from their website.

Automotive Soundproofing / Sound Damping

As with its many other applications and uses, Acoustiblok is an excellent product to use in automotive applications. It works exceptionally well, far better than other materials when installed correctly. Acoustiblok is made in the U.S.A. from all U.S. materials.

Sound Damping Speakers

If you're looking to make a speaker sound better in the door one needs to completely adhere (do not spot glue here) the material to as much of the metal door surface as possible inside the door. Use the Acoustiblok Fast Cure Industrial Adhesive and the Acoustigrip tape where needed. Do not use a substitute glue as many adhesives and tapes will hold initially but after a few weeks will lose the adhesion to the Acoustiblok. The object here is to create significantly more mass in the speaker enclosure (in this case the door). The speaker mounting should be as airtight as possible. We suggest using the Acousticaulk. It is of course imperative that after all your speakers are installed you verify polarity. Each speaker should move out when connected to the + side of a low-voltage battery. A simple 9 V battery touched to each speaker wire allows you to visually see the cone move in or out. Of course there is much more sophisticated equipment for doing this as well.

Eliminating Road Noise

If you're looking to prevent road noise through the floorboards first take one layer and completely (do not spot glue) adhere Acoustiblok to the floorboards (using a heat gun helps situations where the Acoustiblok needs to be formed around certain protrusions in the floor). Here again we are looking to create mass in a vibrating surface. Over the top of that layer lay the Acoustiblok-Wallcover™ material covering as much area as possible. This material includes the second layer of Acoustiblok with the needed mechanical isolation layer incorporated into it allowing it to reduce the airborne noise.

Engine Noise

The waterproof Acoustiblok will not mold, age, rot, or have any UV problems, however it will not function well in the engine compartment as at about 250° it will begin to lose consistency.

If you have to reduce engine noise or need Acoustiblok in high-temperature areas, we have had great success by first insulating the high-temperature area or item with Thermablok aerogel material. This method works exceptionally well and is used in military applications as well as offshore oil rig installations when the noise source is extremely hot

[GS450-Junkie]

So some people have dynamatted in the cubby hole, and under the fuel electronics as well as under the fuse and relay panel...but what about in the battery storage area? I know....probably doesn't make much sense but if I had extra, hey what the hell right? What about anywhere on the doors? (Upper and lower on doors)

[DMCMW Dave]

So some people have dynamatted in the cubby hole, and under the fuel electronics as well as under the fuse and relay panel...but what about in the battery storage area? I know....probably doesn't make much sense but if I had extra, hey what the hell right? What about anywhere on the doors? (Upper and lower on doors)

Doing the door and roof panels would provide a lot of sound deadening benifit, but the impact of all that weight on the doors is not good with respect to wear and tear on the torsion bars.

[dmc6960]

Doing the door and roof panels would provide a lot of sound deadening benifit, but the impact of all that weight on the doors is not good with respect to wear and tear on the torsion bars.

Which can easily be remedied by swapping your stainless steel door guides for plastic ones, and swapping out the lock solenoid for an actuator from DMCNW.

I'm nearly done doing just this to my passenger door. Drivers door will follow. Detailed information to happen hopefully sometime this weekend.

I've personally not added a "ton" of dynamat, only just enough in all the right places. Additional more effective soundproofing comes in other forms which I'll post about as well. Not all of it is light either though.

[jawn101]

...
I've personally not added a "ton" of dynamat, only just enough in all the right places.

I'd be very curious where the right places are as I am determined to quiet my cabin, and I've already lightened the doors significantly with DPNW's actuators (though I wouldn't swap my stainless pin guides in a million years)

[GS450-Junkie]

What about in footwells, around doors, and under the plastic panels that hold the rear speakers? If a guy wanted to get pretty detailed with it he could. I'm assuming the biggest and most important areas to cover would be back parcel area, floor, and under center console. Maybe I'll call those good enough.

[GS450-Junkie]

Ordered some more Dynamat, so while I wait for that to come....let me ask some interior questions. I ordered John Hervey's Sound Proofing Rubber Mat Kit. Where do the smaller shaped pieces go? Anyone have pictures? Which ones are glued in place, and what did you use to secure them?

I'd like to powder coat most of the metal pieces inside the car that need it i.e. seat pieces, shifter stick, radio bracket, fuse panel, Fuel electronics panel, etc. Anyone ever do this? Just wondering if certain parts are worth the trouble, and if things like the front panel (holds clock) can be powder-coated and what they would look like when done in black or other colors.

I'd like to add some additional speakers in the rear parcel shelf, and a sub in the cubby hole. Is there anything I need to know about installation? (Never added a sub in a car before, or any radio equipment actually). I did replace the factory rear speakers with newer ones, but should I just disconnect those and leave them there...then run a pair of 6X9's instead plus the sub for better sound? Or should I leave the new rear speakers hooked up in addition to the others I want to add?

What do I need to know about headliners? Should they be put in at the same time as a windshield replacement for ease or does it not matter? Do I use glue? Never pulled one out before....

My car has always been missing the power door lock system. A little embarrassed to say, but I don't even know what they look like, what I need, what I am missing, where everything gets mounted, etc. Any help with this would be greatly appreciated. I think all that stuff was completely ripped out a long time ago. So please teach me everything I need to know....and feel free to treat me like a newbie on the topic. How it works, what I need, what to look for, etc.

I bought a center console kit....anyone install one of those before? How hard is it, and do you have any tips?

The small center console cover (window switches mount in it)... as far as I know they are not available...what can I do with mine if it's all nasty?? Any options out there?

How do I install that damn metal battery strap clamp?? I'm scratching my head on that one.... Did anyone ever install like a quick release or something like that?

Where does a Joe Cool unit typically mount?

My mode switch will not turn more than one click. Will a repair kit from DMCH fix this?

What's the latest on AC panel LED's? I bought a kit from Houston about 5 years ago, and am just tearing into the interior now. I seem to remember people saying to avoid them more recently. What's up with those? I may just leave the old bulbs in there, and do the mod so they only come on with the headlights.

That should suffice for now.....

[David T]

The judicious use of strips and pads can be as effective as a blanket but it will take sound testing to know just how to do it. What you are trying to do is change the mass balance so the surfaces do not resonate. This approach won't help insulate but you can use much lighter materiel to do that. You have to be careful how you do the doors. Even switching to actuators and plastic guides may not be enough.
David Teitelbaum

[DMCMW Dave]

Ordered some more Dynamat, so while I wait for that to come....let me ask some interior questions. I ordered John Hervey's Sound Proofing Rubber Mat Kit. Where do the smaller shaped pieces go? Anyone have pictures? Which ones are glued in place, and what did you use to secure them?

--------and a bunch more unrelated questions.

You should break this up into several posts on several topics.

The small pieces go to fill in the dead spaces at the far ends of the back panel, i.e. one under the engine cover release and one under in front of the bulkhead. Not sure about the others.