I will check out getting one of these. My plans have changed and it is vital that I get the D roadworthy ASAP. We're moving -- AGAIN. (Soon.)Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
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I will check out getting one of these. My plans have changed and it is vital that I get the D roadworthy ASAP. We're moving -- AGAIN. (Soon.)Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
Hopefully the thing will be drivable once you get the carb on the back (except for the start issue of course). Don't make me drive all the way down there just to install a $5 gasket otherwise I might turn a Bill on you (joking).Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Are you getting the apartment with the nice carport/garage you are talking about? That would be sweet.
Sorry, yes, the spacer.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
I hope to nail down the starting issue soon.
Yep. Although the garage ups the rent a bit, it will be in a secure, covered storage facility. I will then be able to get collector-car insurance on it. The money I save by switching from my regular insurance policy means I will about break even with the garage rental. It also means I can leave the car on stands/ramps for any length of time necessary to get work done, not having to worry about rain. I think that's a big win.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
Thats pretty sweet. I've considered buying a house with a garage just for insurance purposes but since I put 10k miles a year on my car and use it as a semi daily driver I have a feeling I would get in trouble if I had an accident with collectors insurance.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
You'd have to disconnect your angle drive a lot and/or lie to the insurance company... both bad ideas. :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
Just wait a while, it'll break.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Not mine. I've got a Hervey angle drive.Quote:
Originally Posted by Ron
sounds like a good deal. a garage was one of my criteria when we were looking at houses.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
and +1 on the $5 gasket, even just for testing/troubleshooting. you can always add the spacer in later, right?
I'd have to buy longer studs, first.Quote:
Originally Posted by dvonk
Speaking of which: Two of the studs on the manifold I bought from Bill were not straight, so I decided to put nuts on them and tap with a hammer until the studs were straight. This plan worked for straightening the studs, but when I tried turning the nuts out, the studs came out.
I have school work to do right now, so I am leaving the car alone for the rest of the weekend. I will not have a chance to get back to the car until after my final exams later this week, so I have a little while to make up my mind what to do about this. In the meantime, I have an apartment to pack.
I bought the thick mounting gasket from AutoZone and some blue Loctite for the studs. As it happens, the studs themselves are straight -- it's the holes that are not tapped properly, so I had to bend the studs after they were put in to get everything on top of the manifold.
Anyway, the engine idles better now. I think the smaller jets help (#48 instead of #50), but I still can't get a smooth idle on just the idle air jets like everybody says I should be able to. Instead, I have to set the idle using the curb idle screw, then adjust the air mixture screws until the idle gets better. I still get an occasional miss, but it's not as bad as it was.
I don't know if it has something to do with steel bolts and washers plus aluminum intake manifold plus aluminum/magnesium engine block, but I always find that I need to re-tighten the intake manifold bolts once the engine is good and hot. I expect all those metals and alloys expand and contract at different rates.
Next tasks:
1. It sounds like I have something rubbing up front, and I have a sneaking suspicion that it's a dragging brake pad because it has a "sandpaper" sound to it. I need to change the brake pads anyway, so that will be easy to inspect. I will check the whole suspension and steering up there anyway, just to be sure.
2. The HVAC blower does not blow in Vent mode. It blows on Max and Norm but not Vent. Not sure about Heat/Defrost, but it also blows fine on Bi-Level.
3. Gear oil leak from passenger side output flange. I bought the oil seal but have yet to install it. Need to rent a seal install tool.
4. Evaporator replacement. Will need lots of help for this.
Since I am moving in the next two weeks, I will not be able to finish all of those tasks before DCS, so I will not see y'all in Orlando. Maybe in 2016, depending on where the next DCS is.
You can only adjust the idle mixture screws when the car is at operating temperature and the choke plate is fully open. I've found the best thing to do is go for a brief drive (about 10 minutes) to get the car warmed up. Then pull over in a parking lot somewhere (secluded of course) and start doing your adjustments.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Basically you should only adjust the fast idle screw when the car is cold and you should only adjust the idle mixture screws when the car is hot. I've found parking lots to be the best place for doing both of these things.
In other news: I finished the video for the final presentation in my English class! There's a four-minute time limit, so this is all I could come up with. However, since I had never done video editing before, it was enough work just putting this together. Still, it was fun. Audio is one of my hobbies -- maybe I will add video to the list, as well. :)
It's being presented Thursday, but y'all get a sneak peek. Enjoy!
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HTvUO4ouGBc
Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Its beautiful. Brought a tear to me eye.
Thanks! I wish I had more time for the video, but I had to leave a lot out to meet the four-minute time limit...Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
You made me look like a decent human being. It really was amazing.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
I will really need to learn how to tolerate very high temperatures, if the adjustment has to be made hot. I always end up burning my knuckles on the thermostat housing.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
Just drive to Harbor Freight, pickup some gloves, and make the adjustments in the parking lot (wearing the gloves of course).Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
I am pretty sure the radiator cooling fans had come on at least once the last time I tried adjusting the idle air mixture screws. The cooling fans cycling is how I know the engine is at operating temperature. Nonetheless, it couldn't hurt. Now that my math final is over with, I only have an English portfolio to assemble. After that, I will be busy packing up the apartment, but I will try to find some time this weekend to try to make that adjustment again.
In other news, I cancelled my DCS registration. Looks like the rest of the GCD crew are on your own.
Stinking club president/founder/treasurer/secretary/administrator, etc...Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Not so much a "club" as a loose association of people with the same automotive affinity. But that doesn't make for a nice three-latter acronym.Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
nice video, your professional narration really brings it all together! :thumbup:Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
ah, thats too bad, i was looking forward to meeting you in person. :frown:Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
we shall meet at another juncture, no doubt. i hope your move goes well!
Picking up the keys to the new apartment (and the remote for the garage!) on Friday. This will be -- I hope -- the fastest move ever: I have been packing every night since we decided to get out, with the exception of yesterday when I had a migraine. Man, nobody ever told me how bad migraines can be... I hope this doesn't mean that I have suddenly become prone to them, because aging suddenly looks a lot worse than it did last week.
until i got a migraine, i just thought everyone who complained about a migraine was being a wimp about a headache. boy was i wrong. ive only had the one, and that was plenty for me.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
anyway, congrats on your new garage (oh yeah, and apartment :wink: )!
Ha -- me, too! I will sympathize with those folks a lot better now.Quote:
Originally Posted by dvonk
That's pretty much how I feel -- if it were air conditioned I would probably sleep in there. :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by dvonk
haha, totally. its a dream of mine to one day have a climate-controlled garage. of course, it would also have a lift, big air compressor, lots of room, etc... :biggrin:Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
I think one of those MaxJax things would be enough for my personal garage. I am sure I can convince my significant other that it would be worth the investment. :)
I would *love* one of those. It would give me the ability and courage to tackle things I just don't do now. Good luck with that... (and if you're renting, don't let them see the holes in the floor!)Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Ha! I was speaking in the long term for when we are in our own place and not renting... but yeah, it would be interesting to see if I could get away with it.Quote:
Originally Posted by jawn101
I will be making some alterations to the apartment (putting shelves and clothing rods in closets, etc.) but those can all be easily undone with some spackling paste.
I am still wondering why I cannot start the car with the key. I ignored the weird blue wire and connected the two red/white wires the way they're supposed to be. My car has had the early-VIN wiring mod done and I have verified with Steve's help that it was done properly. I have verified the Neutral Safety Switch works and has good contact, and I have verified that the Start Inhibit Relay works and has good contact. Yet with everything wired up as it is supposed to be I still have to jump the starter motor manually. I am stumped, but I don't want to have to tear the wiring harness apart just now. Any thoughts?
Run a wire from your bulkhead mod through the firewall and into the car. I would suggest that you run the wire through the hole in the battery compartment. Tuck the wire somewhere convenient such as between the passenger seat and the console. Then run a wire directly from the positive terminal to the same location in your cabin. Now you can start the car from inside (whether it is raining or not).Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
For a more permanent fix, go down to Oreilly's and get one of those fancy push buttons for starting cars and hook it up to your wires. Or you could just use a really heavy duty switch.
Either way, just run some wires into your car and at least you will be able to conveniently enjoy your car until the issue is resolved.
Do some voltage tests on the start inhibit relay socket. Make sure they all behave like they should and are securely fastened to the socket.
The relay coil GND should only have GND when not in gear.
The relay coil 12V should get 12V when the key is turned to start.
The relay power input should be 12V at all times.
The relay power output should turn the starter (test with a jumper).
Report back and we'll go from there.
Check.Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
No.Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
Check.Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
No.Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
A little additional info: In order to turn the starter motor, I use a wire spliced into the red/white wire at the bulkhead connector. I touch it to the positive jump post in the engine compartment and the starter motor turns every time. So I know the connection at the bulkhead is good. Not sure if that is relevant. I originally installed that wire just to have a way to start the engine from the engine compartment while working on the car, but now I have to use it all the time. It does turn the starter motor without fail, so I assume the connections at the starter motor itself are also good. Not sure if that is relevant at this stage, but I thought I'd mention it.
Your problem is the lack of 12 volts on the relay contacts. With the relay modification that should have been done, that 12 volts was attached to the door lock circuit breaker.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
Ah HA! There seems to be two problems here then. Both need to be troubleshot individually.
First, your start inhibit relay not getting its coil 12V from the ignition switch. This is bad! Under the drivers side dash, you should see I think two harnesses going into the steering collumn. One of them contains all the wires for the ignition switch. Your interested in the brown one and the white/red wire. Disconnect it and test CONTINUITY on the ignition switch side. Turn key to start, you should get a connection. Next, take a jumper and connect the brown to the white/red wire (make sure your start inhibit relay is still removed). Now with that jumper in place, check for relay coil 12V at the relay socket.
Next, it would appear that supplying 12v to the relay output pin does not turn the starter. Lets test for something else then. Find your "hot start" relay socket. Its got a white/red wire. Give it 12v, does your starter engage? Test continuity between that that wire on the hot start relay socket and the start inhibit relay socket. They should be connected. After those checks, you'll need to remove the engine harness from the bulkhead connectors and test for either 12v (with everything jumped) or continuity on the bulkhead connector for the starter and the power out from the start inhibit relay socket.
Report back.
Proper service bulletin mods has that relay getting its power input from the blower fan breaker, not the door lock breaker.Quote:
Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
However the door lock breaker is a GREAT place for really good 12V testing power.
Thanks, guys!
I will try these and report back on the next good-weather day (or when I finally get the car in the garage...)
So glad I have this forum and the DML to help me troubleshoot the little things that get me scratching my head over this car. :)
No need for troubleshooting. Just mount a fancy push start button somewhere in the car, run some wires to it, and presto, you've got a fancy exotic car with a push start ignition.Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
I'm thinking something like this would look really nice in place of the dimmer knob or cigarette lighter.
Attachment 10343
This could easily be mounted inside one of those console dummy switches:
http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/de...d=start+button
That would be the worst possible option -- I hit those switches all the time with my elbow. Just what I need -- the starter motor engaging when I am going down the highway at 60 MPH. :lol:Quote:
Originally Posted by stevedmc
I have the steering wheel canopy off right now... should I just test at the switch itself? Or is there a connection somewhere inside the wrap of the harness that may have snapped? I have seen some strange stuff inside those harnesses, so there's no telling.Quote:
Originally Posted by dmc6960
You know, it's funny how these cars work... I think "All right, I've got it running fine, so it's time for some fun," and then suddenly something happens, like the air conditioning explodes or the key stops working. I should never do anything except basic maintenance and repair to this car, because as soon as I think I can spend some car money on something fun, it comes to bite me in the ass. :lol:
Got the keys to the new apartment today. The garage is 10x12 feet. Plenty of room for the D, plus parts and tools! :D
woo hoo, youre going to love it! :woot:Quote:
Originally Posted by Farrar
also, 1000th post! (on this thread) :lol: