I bought the thick mounting gasket from AutoZone and some blue Loctite for the studs. As it happens, the studs themselves are straight -- it's the holes that are not tapped properly, so I had to bend the studs after they were put in to get everything on top of the manifold.
Anyway, the engine idles better now. I think the smaller jets help (#48 instead of #50), but I still can't get a smooth idle on just the idle air jets like everybody says I should be able to. Instead, I have to set the idle using the curb idle screw, then adjust the air mixture screws until the idle gets better. I still get an occasional miss, but it's not as bad as it was.
I don't know if it has something to do with steel bolts and washers plus aluminum intake manifold plus aluminum/magnesium engine block, but I always find that I need to re-tighten the intake manifold bolts once the engine is good and hot. I expect all those metals and alloys expand and contract at different rates.
Next tasks:
1. It sounds like I have something rubbing up front, and I have a sneaking suspicion that it's a dragging brake pad because it has a "sandpaper" sound to it. I need to change the brake pads anyway, so that will be easy to inspect. I will check the whole suspension and steering up there anyway, just to be sure.
2. The HVAC blower does not blow in Vent mode. It blows on Max and Norm but not Vent. Not sure about Heat/Defrost, but it also blows fine on Bi-Level.
3. Gear oil leak from passenger side output flange. I bought the oil seal but have yet to install it. Need to rent a seal install tool.
4. Evaporator replacement. Will need lots of help for this.
Since I am moving in the next two weeks, I will not be able to finish all of those tasks before DCS, so I will not see y'all in Orlando. Maybe in 2016, depending on where the next DCS is.


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