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Thread: Farrar's car blog

  1. #971
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    I bought the thick mounting gasket from AutoZone and some blue Loctite for the studs. As it happens, the studs themselves are straight -- it's the holes that are not tapped properly, so I had to bend the studs after they were put in to get everything on top of the manifold.

    Anyway, the engine idles better now. I think the smaller jets help (#48 instead of #50), but I still can't get a smooth idle on just the idle air jets like everybody says I should be able to. Instead, I have to set the idle using the curb idle screw, then adjust the air mixture screws until the idle gets better. I still get an occasional miss, but it's not as bad as it was.

    I don't know if it has something to do with steel bolts and washers plus aluminum intake manifold plus aluminum/magnesium engine block, but I always find that I need to re-tighten the intake manifold bolts once the engine is good and hot. I expect all those metals and alloys expand and contract at different rates.

    Next tasks:

    1. It sounds like I have something rubbing up front, and I have a sneaking suspicion that it's a dragging brake pad because it has a "sandpaper" sound to it. I need to change the brake pads anyway, so that will be easy to inspect. I will check the whole suspension and steering up there anyway, just to be sure.

    2. The HVAC blower does not blow in Vent mode. It blows on Max and Norm but not Vent. Not sure about Heat/Defrost, but it also blows fine on Bi-Level.

    3. Gear oil leak from passenger side output flange. I bought the oil seal but have yet to install it. Need to rent a seal install tool.

    4. Evaporator replacement. Will need lots of help for this.

    Since I am moving in the next two weeks, I will not be able to finish all of those tasks before DCS, so I will not see y'all in Orlando. Maybe in 2016, depending on where the next DCS is.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  2. #972
    Banned
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Baton Rouge, Louisiana

    Posts:    3,047

    My VIN:    16510 and carbureted

    Club(s):   (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    Anyway, the engine idles better now. I think the smaller jets help (#48 instead of #50), but I still can't get a smooth idle on just the idle air jets like everybody says I should be able to. Instead, I have to set the idle using the curb idle screw, then adjust the air mixture screws until the idle gets better. I still get an occasional miss, but it's not as bad as it was.
    You can only adjust the idle mixture screws when the car is at operating temperature and the choke plate is fully open. I've found the best thing to do is go for a brief drive (about 10 minutes) to get the car warmed up. Then pull over in a parking lot somewhere (secluded of course) and start doing your adjustments.

    Basically you should only adjust the fast idle screw when the car is cold and you should only adjust the idle mixture screws when the car is hot. I've found parking lots to be the best place for doing both of these things.

  3. #973
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    In other news: I finished the video for the final presentation in my English class! There's a four-minute time limit, so this is all I could come up with. However, since I had never done video editing before, it was enough work just putting this together. Still, it was fun. Audio is one of my hobbies -- maybe I will add video to the list, as well.

    It's being presented Thursday, but y'all get a sneak peek. Enjoy!

    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  4. #974
    Banned
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Baton Rouge, Louisiana

    Posts:    3,047

    My VIN:    16510 and carbureted

    Club(s):   (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    In other news: I finished the video for the final presentation in my English class! There's a four-minute time limit, so this is all I could come up with. However, since I had never done video editing before, it was enough work just putting this together. Still, it was fun. Audio is one of my hobbies -- maybe I will add video to the list, as well.

    It's being presented Thursday, but y'all get a sneak peek. Enjoy!


    Its beautiful. Brought a tear to me eye.

  5. #975
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by stevedmc View Post
    Its beautiful. Brought a tear to me eye.
    Thanks! I wish I had more time for the video, but I had to leave a lot out to meet the four-minute time limit...
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  6. #976
    Banned
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Baton Rouge, Louisiana

    Posts:    3,047

    My VIN:    16510 and carbureted

    Club(s):   (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    Thanks! I wish I had more time for the video, but I had to leave a lot out to meet the four-minute time limit...
    You made me look like a decent human being. It really was amazing.

  7. #977
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    Quote Originally Posted by stevedmc View Post
    You can only adjust the idle mixture screws when the car is at operating temperature and the choke plate is fully open. I've found the best thing to do is go for a brief drive (about 10 minutes) to get the car warmed up. Then pull over in a parking lot somewhere (secluded of course) and start doing your adjustments.

    Basically you should only adjust the fast idle screw when the car is cold and you should only adjust the idle mixture screws when the car is hot. I've found parking lots to be the best place for doing both of these things.
    I will really need to learn how to tolerate very high temperatures, if the adjustment has to be made hot. I always end up burning my knuckles on the thermostat housing.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  8. #978
    Banned
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Baton Rouge, Louisiana

    Posts:    3,047

    My VIN:    16510 and carbureted

    Club(s):   (GCD) (SEDOC) (DCUK)

    Quote Originally Posted by Farrar View Post
    I will really need to learn how to tolerate very high temperatures, if the adjustment has to be made hot. I always end up burning my knuckles on the thermostat housing.
    Just drive to Harbor Freight, pickup some gloves, and make the adjustments in the parking lot (wearing the gloves of course).

  9. #979
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    I am pretty sure the radiator cooling fans had come on at least once the last time I tried adjusting the idle air mixture screws. The cooling fans cycling is how I know the engine is at operating temperature. Nonetheless, it couldn't hurt. Now that my math final is over with, I only have an English portfolio to assemble. After that, I will be busy packing up the apartment, but I will try to find some time this weekend to try to make that adjustment again.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

  10. #980
    Owner since 2007 Farrar's Avatar
    Join Date:  May 2011

    Location:  Fort Lauderdale

    Posts:    4,740

    My VIN:    02613

    Club(s):   (DCF)

    In other news, I cancelled my DCS registration. Looks like the rest of the GCD crew are on your own.
    3.0L, automatic, carbureted

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