Used these boiler brushes to break free the loose rust inside the roof box.
Vacuumed out the rust debris
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Used these boiler brushes to break free the loose rust inside the roof box.
Vacuumed out the rust debris
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I emptied this whole can into the roof box.
Well there's a leak area
Called it a night. Driving the car with an 80# door just held up with a piece of lumber seems somewhat dangerous....
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Location: Leonardtown, MD
Posts: 9,604
My VIN: 03572
Use some wood on those vice grip jaws. Or you can use a Jorgensen clamp. I use these many times for different clamping needs.
https://www.amazon.com/Jorgensen-Siz...3&sr=8-16&th=1
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Surprisingly the teeth on my visegrips matched up pretty well with the splines. I was just using the. For something to tap on with a hammer. I kept removing them and putting the splined plate back on to make sure I wasn't messing up the splines.Originally Posted by Bitsyncmaster
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Location: Stevens Point,WI
Posts: 2,546
My VIN: 6125
You can get stainless Phillips screws in black oxide from McMaster-Carr if you're going down the rabbit hole of replacing them all. I used these all over the front trunk area and random other places. Just measure the thread lengths on your old screws beforehand so you know how long to get. The regular mild steel black screws only hold up for so long before they start to get rusty.
You can also get black stainless for all the screws on the exterior for the turn signal lenses, marker lights, tail lights, etc. but I think it's cheaper to buy one of the black stainless screw kits from one of the vendors rather than buy them all individually.
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Yeah I already bought the black stainless exterior screws kit.You can get stainless Phillips screws in black oxide from McMaster-Carr if you're going down the rabbit hole of replacing them all. I used these all over the front trunk area and random other places. Just measure the thread lengths on your old screws beforehand so you know how long to get. The regular mild steel black screws only hold up for so long before they start to get rusty.
You can also get black stainless for all the screws on the exterior for the turn signal lenses, marker lights, tail lights, etc. but I think it's cheaper to buy one of the black stainless screw kits from one of the vendors rather than buy them all individually.
I bought the plastic black screws for all of the cover panels in the fronk.
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Well, the penitrating fluid must have done something over night.
This morning I put the Allen socket in the torsion rod on my breaker bar and barely put any CCW pressure on it and "POP" it moved.
It was a five minute fight of wiggling CCW/CW while pulling on the rod as hard as I could but eventually it came out.
Now I can get in there better to clean, seal, and paint.
I tested the rod with a magnet and it is magnetic so if they are S.S. it must not be pure. So should I be painting these with a light coat of paint or wipe down with oil?
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It looks like I got the inside of the roofbox pretty well aside from the ceiling of it in some areas.
https://youtu.be/QuCl05CjGw8?si=hadA17RGDmtEZTz-
Next up is the 3M Body Cavity Wax.
The paint is not fully dried yet though.
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Worked on the car for an hour today.
Drilled a bunch of 1/4" holes and put in aluminum rivets for some added insurance.
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I found a source for this NLA part. Yeah!!!I removed the torsion rod so I could assess and pull out this rubber boot that the wires run it. I didn't like how it was shaped. I fed the wires out through the roof box.
I found that the top side of the rubber piece is torn.
Anyone know where I can get one of these? I am pretty sure they are NLA.
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Dave M vin 03572
