What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[nkemp]

I drove it :smile:

[Rich_NYS]

Finished replacing the seat covers, glad that job is done...very time consuming.

(Excuse the car-clutter....my little one has claimed the parcel shelf as "her spot.")


29207

[nkemp]

Finished replacing the seat covers, glad that job is done...very time consuming.

29207

Looks good. Looks like you got the narrows under the headrest nice and tight... like the originals. Good work.

[sdg3205]

Parkerized a lot of nuts and bolts.

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/25/zyry5uqy.jpg

[NightFlyer]

Parkerized a lot of nuts and bolts.

Hey Dave, have you ever tried alodining any of the aluminum pieces on the car? I've always been interested in doing such myself, but as I've decided to go concours, it's not really something I can do any more....

[sdg3205]

No I've never tried that josh!

[NightFlyer]

No I've never tried that josh!

Darn. Perhaps someday, I'll try it on a car engine :)

[DMCMW Dave]

Got looking into my brake reservoir area for figuring out an intermittent brake warning light problem and noticed something else.

What appears to be a coolant line from the connection at the top of the radiator on the drivers side going back towards the rear of the car on the passenger side is pretty much just lying there on top of the frame, steering rack area/boots, and backside of the cooling fans. Was it meant to be routed somewhere a little more secured? It's not like that's an area that sees a lot of action or movement, but I was surprised to see how close the edge of the hose is to the back edge of the cooling fan motor on the drivers side. It wouldn't go anywhere so long as both ends are connected, but could be pretty exciting if one end did let go.

Air conditioner line?

[Jonathan]

Air conditioner line?

I'll see if I can get a picture of it and post here. It sure looks like it goes to the top LH side of the radiator which on the parts diagram says it's a coolant hose (I had assumed). 26 years of mystery history prior to owning my car and I'm not quite to the end of the surprise finding phase...

[pezzonovante88]

Got a new throttle cable installed for piece-of-mind. Then washed the car and put it away in the garage under its cover. :sleep:

[Kukem]

Got my brake light issue on the tail light boards sorted out and ordered a new Reverse Switch yesterday. I will eventually need new boards but for now it's working.

[Jonathan]

Got my brake light issue on the tail light boards sorted out and ordered a new Reverse Switch yesterday. I will eventually need new boards but for now it's working.

Saw this mentioned about the reverse lights connector on a manual trans and wasn't sure where you were at with fixing your tail lights problem.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10298-Where-do-these-two-items-go

What ended up being the problem/solution for the brake lights? Did you put the tiny nuts and bolts into the bulb socket rivets?

[DMC5180]

Parkerized a lot of nuts and bolts.

Never heard of this one. What is it? Looks more like you stripped the rust and plating off in preparation for electroplating zinc.

[Kukem]

Saw this mentioned about the reverse lights connector on a manual trans and wasn't sure where you were at with fixing your tail lights problem.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10298-Where-do-these-two-items-go

What ended up being the problem/solution for the brake lights? Did you put the tiny nuts and bolts into the bulb socket rivets?

The reverse connector was fine and my wiring is all good. My reverse switch is bad. I jumped the wires and the reverse lights were good. For the boards, we soldered the boards but the connectors are still damaged somewhere in the boards. They are working but I need new boards and will get them this winter.

[Dan81DMC]

Last night, after my wife went to bed, I went out to the garage to work on the car. I am still working on getting everything reconnected after recently pulling the engine. After I reinstalled the muffler, I wanted to try starting it for the first time since the engine has been out. When I went to go get the car keys from the house, I discovered that I had locked myself out! Not wanting to bang on the door and wake my pregnant wife, I ended up spending the night in the passenger seat of the DeLorean. While I find the car very comfortable to drive, as a bed, it leaves a lot to be desired!

[alexwolf1216]

Today, I changed out all my door marker lights/lenses to blue, changed out as many LED's as I could, reinstalled the kneepads and busted up glove box, discovered my light switch for the engine compartment was crap, and installed some gaskets for my side markers. It turns out, my passenger front side marker was replaced with a different part at some point, so the new bulb I bought doesnt fit.

Also, I went to show my friend how the car doesnt start while cold, and alas it fired right up. I did have the AC on max and blower of 4 though. I usually turn that off, but not last time apparently. I now wonder if there is some sort of issue starting the car with the AC off....but i was too tired to mess with it.
29226

[DMC5180]

This has been one of those annoyances I've put up with for years and I finally FIXED it.

29252 I installed a green BA7 LED from Superbright LED's (It just barely fits do to it's length). I bought two different types too try out and the other one was a 1/16 too long.

29254 The modern socket is small enough to fit inside the old socket if it weren't for the alignment tabs sticking out.

29253 29255 The illumination rings exactly the same external dimension. The only real difference is that the ID is about 2MM smaller.

29256 29257 29258 It's not the brightest Illumination. I think a sideways illuminating LED might do a better job, but this works for now.


I found it interesting that both the OEM and NEW sockets are made in Germany. It might even be the same company.

I bought The new socket from here: http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=4471&category_id=342&category_parent_id=

[jawn101]

This has been one of those annoyances I've put up with for years and I finally FIXED it.

29252 I installed a green BA7 LED from Superbright LED's (It just barely fits do to it's length). I bought two different types too try out and the other one was a 1/16 too long.

29254 The modern socket is small enough to fit inside the old socket if it weren't for the alignment tabs sticking out.

29253 29255 The illumination rings exactly the same external dimension. The only real difference is that the ID is about 2MM smaller.

29256 29257 29258 It's not the brightest Illumination. I think a sideways illuminating LED might do a better job, but this works for now.


I found it interesting that both the OEM and NEW sockets are made in Germany. It might even be the same company.

I bought The new socket from here: http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=4471&category_id=342&category_parent_id=

Nice, so do standard 12v accessories plug in and work properly now?

I've also had zero luck illuminating that ring with an LED. It's one of only two bulbs I left incandescent on the car (excluding headlights) - I bought the same one from Superbright and it turns out you really need that sideways light dispersal rather than head-on as the BA7 provides

[DavidProehl]

This has been one of those annoyances I've put up with for years and I finally FIXED it.

29252 I installed a green BA7 LED from Superbright LED's (It just barely fits do to it's length). I bought two different types too try out and the other one was a 1/16 too long.

29254 The modern socket is small enough to fit inside the old socket if it weren't for the alignment tabs sticking out.

29253 29255 The illumination rings exactly the same external dimension. The only real difference is that the ID is about 2MM smaller.

29256 29257 29258 It's not the brightest Illumination. I think a sideways illuminating LED might do a better job, but this works for now.


I found it interesting that both the OEM and NEW sockets are made in Germany. It might even be the same company.

I bought The new socket from here: http://www.gowesty.com/ec_view_details.php?id=4471&category_id=342&category_parent_id=

I've been running that same socket for a couple years now (minus the LED) and love it! I also painted over the cigarette icon on the lighter to make it look more like the stock lighter.

[DMC5180]

Nice, so do standard 12v accessories plug in and work properly now?

I've also had zero luck illuminating that ring with an LED. It's one of only two bulbs I left incandescent on the car (excluding headlights) - I bought the same one from Superbright and it turns out you really need that sideways light dispersal rather than head-on as the BA7 provides

Yes, that was the goal in changing it.

It would be nice if the illumination were brighter. Not that its really important, the previous bulb was burnt out and I didn't even miss it. When I was at DCS this year, I had the chance to see Dave M's Illuminated A/C panel in daylight and happened to notice at the same time his Illumination ring was well lit up. I know he probably did some custom LED work to get it to show up so well.

[DMC-81]

After a hiatus to replace some parts on my grocery getter, and changing the oil on another car, I finally got to the sway bar on the D. I stripped, sanded, and primed it today. There was a fair amount of surface rust underneath the paint. Next is satin black top coat, and a small frame touch up underneath the clutch master cylinder. Thanks to some awesome posts on the recommended frame paint, I chose POR15 Gray, and Rustoleum Smoke Gray for that job. Incidentally, I asked DMCH about getting some original epoxy, and while they don't have it any more, they also suggested POR15 as an alternative.

[Kukem]

Bled the brakes last night. Better now. Will need new pads in the near future I think.

[papanoel]

well seems the drain from the evaporator is clogged up. the passenger floor carpet was soaked.

Do i really have to take the front right tire off to get to the drain hose? I couldn't see it near the fuel pump and tank. also couldn't see it by the front right tire.

[ifelder]

well seems the drain from the evaporator is clogged up. the passenger floor carpet was soaked.

Do i really have to take the front right tire off to get to the drain hose? I couldn't see it near the fuel pump and tank. also couldn't see it by the front right tire.

See my post for a picture of the evaporator drain tube. You'll need to take the passenger front tire off to get your body in there, the tube is quite short located behind the fuel pump when you are looking directly into the passenger wheel well. I stuck a piece of 5/8" hose around the evaporator tube and used a shop-vac on the other end, once it was unplugged it drained quite a bit of water.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10247-Unconnected-Wires-in-idle-ECU-compartment&p=151804&viewfull=1#post151804

[papanoel]

See my post for a picture of the evaporator drain tube. You'll need to take the passenger front tire off to get your body in there, the tube is quite short located behind the fuel pump when you are looking directly into the passenger wheel well. I stuck a piece of 5/8" hose around the evaporator tube and used a shop-vac on the other end, once it was unplugged it drained quite a bit of water.

http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?10247-Unconnected-Wires-in-idle-ECU-compartment&p=151804&viewfull=1#post151804

Thanks I was trying to see if this could be done without taking the wheel off. since i live in manhattan i dont' have a driveway to work in. This would be a trip to the autoshop if i have to take the wheel off.

[ifelder]

Thanks I was trying to see if this could be done without taking the wheel off. since i live in manhattan i dont' have a driveway to work in. This would be a trip to the autoshop if i have to take the wheel off.

You can't change a tire parked on the street? Would you tow your car to a shop if you got a flat, or pop the spare on? If you've got all the tools you need, you should be able to remove the tire, clear the plug, and get the tire back on within an hour. If you can't do it on the street in manhattan, go drive out of the city and do it in a parking lot.

[jawn101]

Pulled off my right tire to check yet again if there was any way to see my A/C drain hose. There's not. I have no idea what to do about that.

Despite being told it wouldn't help me locate the hose (it didn't) I removed my fuel tank closing plate too. This is one of only about 15 parts that I haven't removed from my car before. I knew it had some obvious epoxy damage from a brake master leak at some point in the past....

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=29284&d=1406751417
Here's what it looked like just as I removed it. Pretty ugly compared to the rest of my frame, but all things considered not that bad.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=29285&d=140675142
Here it is after just peeling up any loose epoxy

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=29286&d=1406751432
After a few minutes with a scraper....

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=29287&d=1406751439
After hitting it with a razor blade and a wire brush

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=29288&d=1406751446
And finally with some degreaser. I think the plate is definitely saveable, so we'll have to have a POR-15 tech day at some point, since I know Clint needs to do his as well and there's no sense in doing the same job twice by ourselves!

The worst part was reinstalling the plate when I was done. I invented some great and juvenile new swear words, then realized my life would be a lot easier if I brought the floor jack under the car with me to hold the plate up while I bolted it down. Then it took all of 5 minutes. Sigh.

After that, went for a drive. Cold start issue again, jiggling the CSV plug got it going. I really need to put a new pigtail on. Other than that, drove like a dream. And the A/C drain hose remains my Moby D(MC)ick.

[DavidProehl]

I think the plate is definitely saveable, so we'll have to have a POR-15 tech day at some point, since I know Clint needs to do his as well and there's no sense in doing the same job twice by ourselves!

Yikes! If your car's plate looks like that, I can only imagine what mine must look like. If there is going to be POR-15 tech day I might have to get in on it (assuming I have similar issues). Maybe we all pitch in on a large can and have a plate day.

[jawn101]

Yikes! If your car's plate looks like that, I can only imagine what mine must look like. If there is going to be POR-15 tech day I might have to get in on it (assuming I have similar issues). Maybe we all pitch in on a large can and have a plate day.

Great idea :) I'm going to leave it to Clint to decide how we should coordinate that, since we are all bound to have light frame damage underneath the plate too - so we'll need to clean and prep and paint that area too. I don't know how long these paints take to cure etc so we will need the expert. The good news is that prepping the area was really easy. If it wasn't so freaking hot out it would have been a piece of cake. You're looking at under an hour's worth of work, R&R not included.

[elfking]

Mine looks quite a bit worse then that.. its on 'the list' of things to clean up...

We do need to do some techdays. Still slacking on my end for cleanup otherwise I would offer my place... :(

[ifelder]

And the A/C drain hose remains my Moby D(MC)ick.

My AC drain was tucked in a funny angle behind my fuel pump. It wasn't until I jammed my hand behind the pump and felt the tube could I pull it into view, but once I felt the end of an empty hose I was pretty sure I wasn't tugging on something else.

Is your drain tube intact on the evaporator side, inside the cabin on the passenger side? Could a PO have cut your drain tube on either end? I believe it's possible to clear the drain by blowing compressed air from the evaporator side and patching the hose back together.


29289

[jawn101]

Mine looks quite a bit worse then that.. its on 'the list' of things to clean up...

We do need to do some techdays. Still slacking on my end for cleanup otherwise I would offer my place... :(

Well if it isn't the Stainless Ghost of Sonoma... :) We will definitely have to include you on whatever comes up...

[jawn101]

My AC drain was tucked in a funny angle behind my fuel pump. It wasn't until I jammed my hand behind the pump and felt the tube could I pull it into view, but once I felt the end of an empty hose I was pretty sure I wasn't tugging on something else.

Is your drain tube intact on the evaporator side, inside the cabin on the passenger side? Could a PO have cut your drain tube on either end? I believe it's possible to clear the drain by blowing compressed air from the evaporator side and patching the hose back together.


29289

Yeah, I've tried every possible angle to get at it. I thought for sure when I had the fuel pump all removed it would be easy to reach, but nope. Yes, the drain funnel is intact. No idea where the other end is or what condition it's in as I can't reach it. I do know that I have never seen my A/C make water outside the car so I believe it to be clogged or crimped off, which is why I'm trying to find it :)

My other big problem is that my arms are too big to really get inside the evap box through the blower motor hole. I tried once and just couldn't get far enough. Otherwise I'd try using an electrical fish tape to snake the hose, see where it came out and try to jiggle things free. Haven't tried imposing on anyone else with skinny arms to try that out yet...

[ifelder]

Yeah, I've tried every possible angle to get at it. I thought for sure when I had the fuel pump all removed it would be easy to reach, but nope. Yes, the drain funnel is intact. No idea where the other end is or what condition it's in as I can't reach it. I do know that I have never seen my A/C make water outside the car so I believe it to be clogged or crimped off, which is why I'm trying to find it :)

My other big problem is that my arms are too big to really get inside the evap box through the blower motor hole. I tried once and just couldn't get far enough. Otherwise I'd try using an electrical fish tape to snake the hose, see where it came out and try to jiggle things free. Haven't tried imposing on anyone else with skinny arms to try that out yet...

I pretty much had to stick my whole arm behind the pump to grab the hose. my picture doesn't show how short it really is, I barely had a seal inside the 5/8 hose shown in the picture because I could barely shove it over the drain hose.

[elfking]

Well if it isn't the Stainless Ghost of Sonoma... :) We will definitely have to include you on whatever comes up...

Haha Ghost and still haunting / lurking the forums... Please include me I know I've been a flake to many of these recent events...

Working way to much and still lacking a working AC and one questionable window track keeps me away from it in these summer days... I was hoping I could maybe get away with just recharging it but since it looks pretty stock from what I have been reading 'black gunk' from the hoses will be a problem for me.... I may still try it though and see how it goes hah.

[jawn101]

Haha Ghost and still haunting / lurking the forums... Please include me I know I've been a flake to many of these recent events...

Working way to much and still lacking a working AC and one questionable window track keeps me away from it in these summer days... I was hoping I could maybe get away with just recharging it but since it looks pretty stock from what I have been reading 'black gunk' from the hoses will be a problem for me.... I may still try it though and see how it goes hah.

Long as you've got the balls to replace the evaporator if it gums up too badly.... :)

[Jonathan]

Drained and refilled my final drive.

Holy crap can you ever add that to the "no job is simple or quick on a DeLorean" list. Or maybe my Top 5 sucky DeLorean maintenance jobs.

I will say though, next time around I'll be much better at it, but for my first go, it was a stinker.

Having one good/one bad shoulder doesn't help matters and neither does only being able to get your car up as high as jack stands/ramps. My arms are way too long to get good leverage, torn labrum or otherwise. I did realize that when I had my lip seals replaced and rear drive axle boots all redone, that I didn't give the mechanic a replacement crush washer (or two). So he had reused the ones that were on it. The fill plug was way tighter than it should have been, trying to get it to seal no doubt. That wasn't fun getting that to budge. The drain plug was hardly even tight at all.

So, I may have found at least one main leak culprit or two. I got it refilled and figure it took about 1.350 litres and what came out was not much more than 1 litre I would guess. Did I mention not having gravity go the direction you need it makes pouring fluid into a hole a bit screwy?! I ended up settling on a sort of turkey baster/ear syringe type solution for lack of having a better option to get the gear oil in (80W90).

Anywho, got it all back together and went for a drive. Parked it and let it idle for about 45 minutes all said and done and checked and rechecked my ATF level. Still a pain in the butt reading that level, but I think it is closer now to where it should be (after adding some more). Bonus is it's not leaking much from underneath. Not the middle anyway, but my passenger lip seal is going to need to be done again.

And that's pretty much that. My hometown has their "homecoming" this weekend so the car is all cleaned up for the dance. Giddyup :)

[Rich_NYS]

I did realize that when I had my lip seals replaced and rear drive axle boots all redone, that I didn't give the mechanic a replacement crush washer (or two). So he had reused the ones that were on it. The fill plug was way tighter than it should have been, trying to get it to seal no doubt. That wasn't fun getting that to budge. The drain plug was hardly even tight at all.

And that's pretty much that. My hometown has their "homecoming" this weekend so the car is all cleaned up for the dance. Giddyup :)

That'll be awesome if that fixes that leak you were looking for.

Enjoy your weekend, hopefully you get to drive with your doors open and rocking that badass sound system of yours! :rock_on:

[Rich_NYS]

Pics of my closing plate I took a while back but forgot to post. The PO addressed a bad spot in the front corner.

29294 29295

[alexwolf1216]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/31/a6amu6yj.jpg

Look what came in today! !!! So excited

[alexwolf1216]

Pulled off my right tire to check yet again if there was any way to see my A/C drain hose. There's not. I have no idea what to do about that.

Despite being told it wouldn't help me locate the hose (it didn't) I removed my fuel tank closing plate too. This is one of only about 15 parts that I haven't removed from my car before. I knew it had some obvious epoxy damage from a brake master leak at some point in the past....

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=29284&d=1406751417
Here's what it looked like just as I removed it. Pretty ugly compared to the rest of my frame, but all things considered not that bad.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=29285&d=140675142
Here it is after just peeling up any loose epoxy

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=29286&d=1406751432
After a few minutes with a scraper....

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=29287&d=1406751439
After hitting it with a razor blade and a wire brush

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=29288&d=1406751446
And finally with some degreaser. I think the plate is definitely saveable, so we'll have to have a POR-15 tech day at some point, since I know Clint needs to do his as well and there's no sense in doing the same job twice by ourselves!

The worst part was reinstalling the plate when I was done. I invented some great and juvenile new swear words, then realized my life would be a lot easier if I brought the floor jack under the car with me to hold the plate up while I bolted it down. Then it took all of 5 minutes. Sigh.

After that, went for a drive. Cold start issue again, jiggling the CSV plug got it going. I really need to put a new pigtail on. Other than that, drove like a dream. And the A/C drain hose remains my Moby D(MC)ick.


Mine looks like hell too......But I am too far from CA to make a tech day :rollin:

I need some friends in South Texas!

[mpolzin]

The past few days have been very busy for me. I hired a company to come in and soda blast my current project car, which was painted (twice) due to some minor damage some where along the way to to passengers side rear quarter. I prepped the car by removing the rear fascia, rear quarter panels and the T-Panel, the rest of the panels were done right on the car. The main reason I removed the rear quarters is because soda blasting can take the gel coat off fiberglass and I didn't want to damage the louvres in the rear quarters, plus it kept most of the blasting away from the engine compartment. The whole process of blasting the car took about 6 hours and the result was amazing, you would never know this car was even painted!

I know there is probably going to be a lot if interest in this one, so I plan to start another thread posting more details along with before and after pics once I get things somewhat more re-assembled.

Mike

[Mark D]

For what it's worth I took a bunch of photos when I refurbed my fuel tank closing plate...The "before" looked nearly identical to whats shown in those pics a few posts back.
http://dmctalk.org/album.php?albumid=167

POR-15 is a good project to do in a group since you typically can't reuse a can once you've opened it and you almost never use a whole can (even one of those small 4oz cans)

Make sure you follow the instructions to the letter and you shouldn't have any issues. If you're planning to top coat the POR-15 (which is much darker grey than the stock epoxy color) the instructions will tell you to dust a very light coat of top coat spray onto tacky POR-15 so once it fully cures your top coat will have something to hold on to. If you miss your window of time when the POR-15 is still tacky you'll have to use POR etching primer otherwise top coat peels right off.

The added bonus of the etching primer is that you build up a few more layers and the paint thickness will more closely match the surrounding epoxy without an obvious edge. For even smoother results you can also sand out and feather the edge of the epoxy so that when you apply the POR you will have a blended overlap.

Here's another thread where you can compare top coat options. I've found the Rustoleum Smoke Grey matches best under most lighting conditions.
http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5199-Frame-Paint-Color-Comparison

[Stainless]

My fuel tank closing plate had some pretty wicked pitting before I performed a restoration/repair on it a couple of years back:

http://deloreanblog.blogspot.com/2012/02/rust-repair-begins.html

It turned out great. I'm interested in taking it off now that it's been a couple of years to see how it's holding up. This is what it looked like after I got done with it:

http://deloreanblog.blogspot.com/2012/02/rust-repair-complete.html

[jawn101]

All these pics are really making me want to get at those paint cans... thanks guys!

[DavidProehl]

Finally wrapped up my interior dying project. I posted about a week and a half ago (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?241-What-have-you-done-to-your-DeLorean-today&p=151412&viewfull=1#post151412) when I finished the dash and console, now have everything else done. Here is a before and after video walk through for those with 6 minutes to kill.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVe0sWET0WE

And a few more in process shots:
Torn vinyl on the driver's bolster.
29380

Not perfect, but an improvement.
29381


Rear speaker panel before and after:
2938429385

Door in process.
2938229383

[DMCMW Dave]

[QUOTE=DavidProehl;152371]

Not perfect, but an improvement.
29381
QUOTE]

You need these:

http://store.delorean.com/p-10090-arm-rest-caps-pair-gry.aspx

[Josh]

This week:

-Installed Keyless entry
-Installed Automatic headlight module
-Gave parking lights their own relay

-Repainted windshield header panel
-Installed new front stocks (monroes failed, big surprise!)
-Fixed coolant leak
-Replaced broken spark plug wire (defective from factory, solves problems of hesitation at high revs)
-Replaced coil pack and one injector (Doh, I killed them washing my engine)
-Some tuning of the fuel tables on my megasquirt. Shooting for better fuel economy.

[jawn101]

Finally wrapped up my interior dying project. I posted about a week and a half ago (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?241-What-have-you-done-to-your-DeLorean-today&p=151412&viewfull=1#post151412) when I finished the dash and console, now have everything else done. Here is a before and after video walk through for those with 6 minutes to kill.


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yVe0sWET0WE

And a few more in process shots:
Torn vinyl on the driver's bolster.
29380

Not perfect, but an improvement.
29381


Rear speaker panel before and after:
2938429385

Door in process.
2938229383



That looks downright amazing David. Time well spent!!

[Tillsy]

Been on holiday for a couple of weeks WITHOUT the DeLorean, so now that I'm home I took the D to pick up dinner tonight. Forgot I was low on fuel so had to detour - got stuck with curious onlookers for 15 minutes there, not too bad. Then went to get the take-away I was meant to be out for - ooops, got stuck for 20 minutes before even getting in to make the order. My starving family was not too impressed when I finally got home with the food :(

Did do one thing to the D today - replaced my Millennium wheel, just wasn't suiting my interior anymore. Much happier now :)

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=29387&d=1406974218

[Alan]

Finally wrapped up my interior dying project. I posted about a week and a half ago (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?241-What-have-you-done-to-your-DeLorean-today&p=151412&viewfull=1#post151412) when I finished the dash and console, now have everything else done. Here is a before and after video walk through for those with 6 minutes to kill.


It looks great. Good work. Nice video, too.

[Rich_NYS]

Drove it!

[DavidProehl]

You need these:

http://store.delorean.com/p-10090-arm-rest-caps-pair-gry.aspx

Great tip Dave! Do those fit the rear of the bolster? I've seen them fitted on the front, never thought that the rear is probably the same shape. If so, I will add that to my list for my next order!


That looks downright amazing David. Time well spent!!

Thanks Jon! It was a fair amount of work, but pleased with the results. I need to pick up a couple extra cans of the dye now in the event I need touch ups down the road.


It looks great. Good work. Nice video, too.
Thanks Alan! Been a while since we talked. I think you were just starting to get engaged in the MN club events when I was moving to CA in early 2012. Hope things are going well!

[Alan]

[QUOTE=DMCMW Dave;152375]
Thanks Alan! Been a while since we talked. I think you were just starting to get engaged in the MN club events when I was moving to CA in early 2012. Hope things are going well!

That sounds about right. Things are going well. I might be within a year of seriously starting to look for my own D. Posts like yours make it much easier for me to think concentrating on the mechanicals is reasonable since cosmetics can be done up so nicely. Very exciting for me to see this.

[DavidProehl]

That sounds about right. Things are going well. I might be within a year of seriously starting to look for my own D. Posts like yours make it much easier for me to think concentrating on the mechanicals is reasonable since cosmetics can be done up so nicely. Very exciting for me to see this.

Very cool! Yes, cosmetics can be dealt with. Really, just about anything can be dealt with if you are willing to put in the time, effort, and cash. This dying project was only about $100 in supplies, the real cost was the time it took. As long as you go into ownership knowing you can't do everything on day 1 you'll be fine. I've owned my car since 2008 and it was only this year that I started focusing more on cosmetics like a previously cracked binnacle and my marked up interior. Pacing has been key for me or I would have been overwhelmed with the cost and time for it all.

[DMCMW Dave]

Great tip Dave! Do those fit the rear of the bolster? I've seen them fitted on the front, never thought that the rear is probably the same shape. If so, I will add that to my list for my next order!

!

Not sure what you mean front/rear. These go on the rear side panel where you drag your butt across it. If your picture was of the rear edge of the panel on the door, I missed that and I can't say I've ever tried fitting the covers there.

[DavidProehl]

Not sure what you mean front/rear. These go on the rear side panel where you drag your butt across it. If your picture was of the rear edge of the panel on the door, I missed that and I can't say I've ever tried fitting the covers there.

Sorry for the confusion. The torn part was the side of the bolster closest to the rear of the car, not the part closest to the door. In most cases I've seen the side closest to the door tear for the reason you mentioned, I was surprised to see the opposite end have the tear.

[Denverdelorean]

I am proud to say I installed a nice new-to-me drivers door! I still need to adjust the locks and strikers, But man. What an adventure. These doors are such a pain in the ass!

[Jonathan]

Dave P., (...seriously, is there something unwritten somewhere that says if your name is Dave you should consider getting a DeLorean??!! lol)

Have a look at this end cap template. Dave S. might have already known which one you needed by eyeballing it. Otherwise, cut them out of a 8.5x11 piece of paper and place them on your bolster ends to see which ones you need (wide or narrow). I think the only pairs you can't buy are the black coloured wide ones.

(and on a side note, if anyone has a single, driver side black narrow, I need it to go with the passenger one I already have. I think they get sold in pairs only?)

[DavidProehl]

I am proud to say I installed a nice new-to-me drivers door! I still need to adjust the locks and strikers, But man. What an adventure. These doors are such a pain in the ass!
That is a serious job! Any pictures?



Dave P., (...seriously, is there something unwritten somewhere that says if your name is Dave you should consider getting a DeLorean??!! lol)

Have a look at this end cap template. Dave S. might have already known which one you needed by eyeballing it. Otherwise, cut them out of a 8.5x11 piece of paper and place them on your bolster ends to see which ones you need (wide or narrow). I think the only pairs you can't buy are the black coloured wide ones.

(and on a side note, if anyone has a single, driver side black narrow, I need it to go with the passenger one I already have. I think they get sold in pairs only?)

Ha! There probably should be a rule about that! Maybe we need a seperate Dave DeLorean club :)

Thanks for the heads up on the template. I'll print it out and give it a try. I'm sure Dave S knows what he is talking about though. He hasn't failed me yet.

[Denverdelorean]

That is a serious job! Any pictures?


No. No pics. I was just in work mode!

[jawn101]

No. No pics. I was just in work mode!

Wow, I can't open my garage door without taking a pic of my car... can't imagine replacing the doors without taking a thousand!

Pretty impressive thing to do though, most of us who've been owners for years would never attempt it.

[Kukem]

Slowly picking my way through the electrical issues. Fixed... sort of, the interior lights last night. Got the parcel shelf dome light working properly with a new bulb and clean contacts, but the front dome light isn't working right. It does not come on when the doors open. It appears the "auto" function isn't working on it. I managed to get it to turn on at least. Some of the contacts in the switch look "off" to me, as if someone tampered with it at some point. Anyway, I'll add a new dome light to my wish list of parts. lol

[papanoel]

well drove from new york to philly and back this weekend.

- passenger side wiper crashed into into the driver side wiper knocking it out position. fixed it at a gas station. took a while to get the positions correct. got soaked.

- noticed my voltage going scary low when stopped. had battery tested and it was bad. replaced it in philly.

- got pulled over for "veering within my lane" whatever that means. trooper asked for a photo of the car so thats really why i got pulled over.

- some weird noises from something loose. need to figure out what that is.

- MY AC IS STILL LEAKING cleared the clogged drain hose the other day but its STILL LEAKING into the footwell. maybe it got reclogged or its something else. any one have any ideas?

[ifelder]

well drove from new york to philly and back this weekend.

- passenger side wiper crashed into into the driver side wiper knocking it out position. fixed it at a gas station. took a while to get the positions correct. got soaked.

- noticed my voltage going scary low when stopped. had battery tested and it was bad. replaced it in philly.

- got pulled over for "veering within my lane" whatever that means. trooper asked for a photo of the car so thats really why i got pulled over.

- some weird noises from something loose. need to figure out what that is.

- MY AC IS STILL LEAKING cleared the clogged drain hose the other day but its STILL LEAKING into the footwell. maybe it got reclogged or its something else. any one have any ideas?

After clearing my AC drain hose last week, it only lasted about a week before leaking again. I managed to get a hose around the drain hose by only jacking the front passenger corner up, and did not have to remove the tire. Ran the shop-vac to clear the drain and got a fair bit of water out again. Didn't leak for the rest of the weekend but I'm not holding my breath. Might take some positive pressure to really clear the line, but I'm hesitant to mangle the evaporator side of the drain hose in case I can't ever get it to seal again and then I really have a leak in my car.

[papanoel]

After clearing my AC drain hose last week, it only lasted about a week before leaking again. I managed to get a hose around the drain hose by only jacking the front passenger corner up, and did not have to remove the tire. Ran the shop-vac to clear the drain and got a fair bit of water out again. Didn't leak for the rest of the weekend but I'm not holding my breath. Might take some positive pressure to really clear the line, but I'm hesitant to mangle the evaporator side of the drain hose in case I can't ever get it to seal again and then I really have a leak in my car.

Yeah that's what I'm afraid of. I used a vaccuum and an air compressor on the drain. Only lasted a day with no leaks.

[ifelder]

Yeah that's what I'm afraid of. I used a vaccuum and an air compressor on the drain. Only lasted a day with no leaks.

Did you apply air pressure from the evaporator side? My evaporator drain connection is still intact and I am trying to avoid breaking it. I figure it's not the best idea to apply air pressure 'up-stream' since whatever solids might be blocking the drain would eventually make it back down into the tube, unless I disconnect the evaporator side.

[Josh]

I am proud to say I installed a nice new-to-me drivers door! I still need to adjust the locks and strikers, But man. What an adventure. These doors are such a pain in the ass!

been there, had to do both my doors. not fun.

[alexwolf1216]

My passenger door shuts like a dream, but the drivers door seems to hit the back pin first. The seals are torn, so I should probably replace those before i go hassle with it eh.

[Jonathan]

My passenger door shuts like a dream, but the drivers door seems to hit the back pin first. The seals are torn, so I should probably replace those before i go hassle with it eh.

Take the door seals off first and then make them close perfectly. The last step is to put new door seals on after you have your striker pins where you want them. You're trying to hit a moving target if you aim for good alignment/closing with bad seals in place.

[Denverdelorean]

been there, had to do both my doors. not fun.

I was able to get this thing fairly lined up on the first try. Much like the torsion bar adjustment procedure, changing out doors isn't as hard as it is made out to be.

I found the trick for removing the door to be to undo the gas strut and over extend the door in it's open position as much as possible to unload the torsion bar. This makes things with the torsion bar bracket procedure much less scary.

After I had the door removed. It was just a matter of moving all the guts from one to the other. that was not fun at all, and took most of my time. Fishing the wiring harness was tricky too. I had to thread a pice of stiff twine through the door from top to bottom to fish the harness back through it's channel. This requires removal of the large connectors from the harness. I did take reference pics of that so I could get it re-assembled after running the cables. I actually need to remove the door once more to finish the wiring job. I forgot to pop rivet the rubber sleeve back onto the door before putting it back on the car. I'll make sure to take pictures the second time.

The locks are finnicky now. I think because i had to break the retaining clip for my old style locks. I tried to be careful, but it just wasn't happening. now the lock sits loose and doesn't quite work right. I need to order new locks now.

i'll need to re align the door to get it to close nicely, and then line the panels up to that. It' really not bad, just heavy and time consuming.

[papanoel]

Did you apply air pressure from the evaporator side? My evaporator drain connection is still intact and I am trying to avoid breaking it. I figure it's not the best idea to apply air pressure 'up-stream' since whatever solids might be blocking the drain would eventually make it back down into the tube, unless I disconnect the evaporator side.

how do i disconnect the evaporator side?

[pezzonovante88]

Decided to sell it. I'm looking at moving and am in the process of getting down to one car (daily driver/hobby car). The DeLorean was great and I'm sure that in some ways I'll regret selling it. Boohoo - first-world problem.

[jawn101]

Decided to sell it. I'm looking at moving and am in the process of getting down to one car (daily driver/hobby car). The DeLorean was great and I'm sure that in some ways I'll regret selling it. Boohoo - first-world problem.

Bummer! Really sad to hear it. I still remember all your posts as you searched for and finally got the car. I'm sure you know what's best for you and know you'll find a good home for it.

[ifelder]

how do i disconnect the evaporator side?

I'm pretty sure you have to cut the tube. I don't want to do that because the tube is only about 1" long between the frame and the evaporator. Then I'd have t come up with some way to patch it, which would probably lead to more leaks!

[robvanderveer]

Today I reinstalled the inertia switch and wiring harness that had been removed about 25 years ago by a PO. I agree that this job was a little overdue, but you know what they say:

"I said i'd do it, you don't have to remind me every 5 years"

[NightFlyer]

I'm pretty sure you have to cut the tube. I don't want to do that because the tube is only about 1" long between the frame and the evaporator. Then I'd have t come up with some way to patch it, which would probably lead to more leaks!

You may find this useful :smile:

http://www.dmctoday.com/showthread.php?93-A-C-Evaporator-Box-Drain

[JohnZ]

Re-installed the rear license plate lights... man what a PITA! How can someone design something like that?!?

There is the light housing, then the rear fascia and then the thread is located in some sort of bracket that is free to move along the inner fascia, so to screw everything back on you have to be sure that the bracket is perfectly aligned with the two holes, and if it's not the screw will turn in vain, and the bracket just won't stay because it's a kind of a dancing bracket and it goes everywhere but where it has to stay, and you swear until you find the right alignment but just a little movement - inserting the screw for example - mess it up again and more profanities are born... :swear1: :swear1:

In the end you must screw in one of them with out the lights housing, screw up the other one with the lights and then go for the other one which is more firm. MAN what a painful 45 minutes! :smashfreak:

[DMCMW Dave]

I'm pretty sure you have to cut the tube. I don't want to do that because the tube is only about 1" long between the frame and the evaporator. Then I'd have t come up with some way to patch it, which would probably lead to more leaks!

Heat it up with a hair dryer and you can collapse it and bend it out of the way. Carefully as you don't want to break the outlet off the case.

[MML]

Re-installed the rear license plate lights... man what a PITA! How can someone design something like that?!?

There is the light housing, then the rear fascia and then the thread is located in some sort of bracket that is free to move along the inner fascia, so to screw everything back on you have to be sure that the bracket is perfectly aligned with the two holes, and if it's not the screw will turn in vain, and the bracket just won't stay because it's a kind of a dancing bracket and it goes everywhere but where it has to stay, and you swear until you find the right alignment but just a little movement - inserting the screw for example - mess it up again and more profanities are born... :swear1: :swear1:

In the end you must screw in one of them with out the lights housing, screw up the other one with the lights and then go for the other one which is more firm. MAN what a painful 45 minutes! :smashfreak:

It's easier with the tail light assemblies removed, then you can get your whole hand in there to hold the metal plate in place!

[alexwolf1216]

Got a call that my Delorean was ready, but still .8 out of toe......I picked it up and thought it looked a little funny..

29839


They set the rear shocks 1 1/2" too low......:fu:

[NightFlyer]

They set the rear shocks 1 1/2" too low......:fu:

Yeah, that definitely doesn't look very good IMHO....

How they managed to screw up what should be a relatively simple job is beyond my understanding....

[alexwolf1216]

Yeah, that definitely doesn't look very good IMHO....

How they managed to screw up what should be a relatively simple job is beyond my understanding....

He didnt listen to Dave....the installed 5.25 to the very bottom of the shock, past the bolt. :angry_whip:

[NightFlyer]

He didnt listen to Dave....the installed 5.25 to the very bottom of the shock, past the bolt. :angry_whip:

Honestly, reminds me of what cars with defective air ride / auto leveling suspensions look like...

http://us1.webpublications.com.au/static/images/articles/i30/3034_3lo.jpg

[Rich]

I picked it up and thought it looked a little funny.
They set the rear shocks 1 1/2" too low....

Not sure I saw what instructions they got from you. When I had mine in to get the shocks and springs done by an independent suspension shop (using parts supplied by me) the instructions were:

1. Set the rear ride ht. so that the bottom of rear crossmember and bottom of front crossmember ended up at equal height/clearance (and this was with a full tank of gas when I dropped off the car to them).
2. Leave all of the suspension bushing bolts "loose" and only tighten them after the car is at final setting and is off of the lift (so as not to pre-twist the bushings).

The job came out right the first time. They said they always follow instruction #2 but I felt better being specific.

[Josh]

Not sure I saw what instructions they got from you. When I had mine in to get the shocks and springs done by an independent suspension shop (using parts supplied by me) the instructions were:

1. Set the rear ride ht. so that the bottom of rear crossmember and bottom of front crossmember ended up at equal height/clearance (and this was with a full tank of gas when I dropped off the car to them).
2. Leave all of the suspension bushing bolts "loose" and only tighten them after the car is at final setting and is off of the lift (so as not to pre-twist the bushings).

The job came out right the first time. They said they always follow instruction #2 but I felt better being specific.

#2 is very critical. if you torque everything first (like i did when i had the rolling chassis removed from the tub) The car can sit up to 2" too high!

[alexwolf1216]

Not sure I saw what instructions they got from you. When I had mine in to get the shocks and springs done by an independent suspension shop (using parts supplied by me) the instructions were:

1. Set the rear ride ht. so that the bottom of rear crossmember and bottom of front crossmember ended up at equal height/clearance (and this was with a full tank of gas when I dropped off the car to them).
2. Leave all of the suspension bushing bolts "loose" and only tighten them after the car is at final setting and is off of the lift (so as not to pre-twist the bushings).

The job came out right the first time. They said they always follow instruction #2 but I felt better being specific.

He called Dave, and was instructed to go 5.25" to the bottom of the shock body, except they went to the bottom of the entire shock instead. That put it around 3.25" to bottom of shock body.

[vps3922]

... to go 5.25" to the bottom of the shock body, ....

They should have an old floppy disk handy for that. :wink:

[Dangermouse]

There's your problem!

they used this

http://images.highspeedbackbone.net/skuimages/large/YYAC-87410_vmain01_jep_mn_4203878.jpg
instead of this

http://www.ivanexpert.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/525_floppy-300x300.gif

[vps3922]

There's your problem!

they used this

http://images.highspeedbackbone.net/skuimages/large/YYAC-87410_vmain01_jep_mn_4203878.jpg
instead of this

http://www.ivanexpert.com/blog/wp-content/uploads/2009/03/525_floppy-300x300.gif


Yep, were probably born too late to still see a 5.25" floating around.

[jawn101]

Yep, were probably born too late to still see a 5.25" floating around.

Whippersnappers. Who remembers the 8" floppies, or storing hundreds of hours of work writing TI-99/4A code on audio cassettes?

I'm sure to raise the hackles of even older-timers who used punchcards or reel to reel.

[Dangermouse]

Yep, were probably born too late to still see a 5.25" floating around.

speak for yourself :)


Whippersnappers. Who remembers the 8" floppies, or storing hundreds of hours of work writing TI-99/4A code on audio cassettes?

I'm sure to raise the hackles of even older-timers who used punchcards or reel to reel.

yes, but they would be no use in suspension work.

[jawn101]

speak for yourself :)



yes, but they would be no use in suspension work.

LOL, I forgot that the 5.25" floppy was in every mechanic's toolchest as a certified unit of measure :)

[alexwolf1216]

I think I still have some games laying around for my Apple IIe....

[jawn101]

On a D related topic, I went out to the garage and polished it up with stainless wipes. Water usage is limited so that was the best I could do for the moment.

In other news, my stupid cold start issue persists. Plug swap usually gets me going but it's a pain in the butt. I really need to figure out where to find some new wiring. Dave at DMCMW has pigtails with the connector and pins pre-installed, but I really want to preserve the blue shell (his are black). Is it possible to swap the outer shells without damaging the pins in the new one? I am thinking with all the plugging and unplugging that my CPR connector is not looking too great these days either, I'd like to do both.

[papanoel]

Heat it up with a hair dryer and you can collapse it and bend it out of the way. Carefully as you don't want to break the outlet off the case.

is there any other way of getting inside of the evaporator without taking apart the dash? removing the blower motor?

[Bitsyncmaster]

is there any other way of getting inside of the evaporator without taking apart the dash? removing the blower motor?

Even if you could, you can not get to the drain with the evaporator and heater cores blocking access to the drain hole.

[papanoel]

Even if you could, you can not get to the drain with the evaporator and heater cores blocking access to the drain hole.

well i went back tonight to the garage. there was alot of water sitting in the evaporator we could hear it slosh around when we tapped it. stuck a coat hanger up the hose and water started coming out. did this a few times. also tapping the evaporator helped clear out the water too. i would say a good 20+ ounces of water came out. i can't get a shop vac to it unfortunately living in the city and storing it in a private garage where you can't legally do any work on your car. gonna have to take it to my mechanic and have him do it again.

[vps3922]

Went to Dave G (sdg3205) and we did a small tech session:

1. installed Infinity Kappa in the rear
2. replaced fuel lines with stainless steel braided fuel lines (Thank you, Dave!)
3. installed heat shield on muffler, which did not get installed with the stage I because DMCH sent the wrong heat shield to DMC NW

Car started up fine after a few kinks and idled nicely.

[Farrar]

Installed new terminals on wires at ignition coil.
29900

[jawn101]

Installed new terminals on wires at ignition coil.
29900

Looks good! Help with your starting issues at all?

[Farrar]

Looks good! Help with your starting issues at all?

Thanks! It did not solve the problem, but it is one less thing to troubleshoot now.

[Jonathan]

Thanks! It did not solve the problem, but it is one less thing to troubleshoot now.

Damn... hoping to see your 2014 miles driven so far get off of zero. You need some help on something? What's holding up you going for a drive? And if it isn't car related, that's cool too. I know the little wheels between my ears are sometimes happier when the DMC stays parked in the garage.

[Jonathan]

Technically last Friday, but just saw the photos today.

One a copy paste from the local newspaper and another from a guy with one of those R/C helicopter cameras.

Seems no matter which car show you go to, if only one photo makes it into the newspaper, it's always the DeLorean!!

2993229933

[Farrar]

Damn... hoping to see your 2014 miles driven so far get off of zero. You need some help on something? What's holding up you going for a drive? And if it isn't car related, that's cool too. I know the little wheels between my ears are sometimes happier when the DMC stays parked in the garage.

No spark. I have been busy this year, just not with DeLorean stuff. I have taken two university classes every semester (including summer) and I am still working full-time and had to deal with a lot of family matters this year. Plus there is the whole "getting ready for the wedding" thing ramping up...

[papanoel]

Drove to the beach Saturday and of course some issues came up.

Although I once again tried unclogging the A/C drain hose the evaporator continues to leak water into the footwell. :bawling: I'm annoyed.

Also now my alpine stereo keeps resetting itself every 10 seconds or so. Will stop doing it after a couple of minutes and just work normally but will randomly reset while driving. Not sure if it was just coincidental but putting the car in reverse seems to trigger a reset as well.

Much to my surprise came across a Bricklin while driving around near the beach. Rolled up next to him and honked. He was annoyed at first but then realized what car i was in. He was just as surprised as i was lol
http://i.imgur.com/VL6smxDl.jpg?1

[Dangermouse]

he looks thrilled........

[Kukem]

I don't like the strips in the middle of the door on that Bricklin. Oh well. I drove by a green one not too long ago in the DeLorean. We both gave each other a thumbs up as we passed. Surprisingly, there aren't as many around here even though I live where they were made.

[DMCMW Dave]

I don't like the strips in the middle of the door on that Bricklin. .

Door fit/gaps look great too.

[Kukem]

Door fit/gaps look great too.

You see, the strip was so bad I totally MISSED the gap! That's how bad it truly is! Like a train wreck, you can't stop starring.... so bad. So wrong.

[papanoel]

Door fit/gaps look great too.

Yeah it needed quite a bit of work. peeling paint on the hood. scratched front bumper. one headlight was partially up and the other closed.

[jawn101]

Door fit/gaps look great too.

LOL, my favorite feature of the Bricklin is the gap around the front bumper that you can fit your fist and both feet in. People give us crap about our cars. They've clearly never seen one of those. :)

[Josh]

Bumped into one at a car show last weekend. The owner was a great guy, good friends with my uncle. He has two Bricklins actually. We did a swap and took each others cars out on the highway. He was so excited to drive the car, seemed to have really made his day. And after driving his, I am glad with my purchase lol. The automatic opening and closing doors are cool though.

30020

[jawn101]

Finally broke down and ordered new horns from DMCMW. The horns on my car are junkyard finds and though they SAY one is low and one is high tone, the fact that my car sounds like an asthmatic power wheels tells a different tale. Also got all new hardware for my fuel tank plate, which I'm hoping to get around to refinishing soon here.

[alexwolf1216]

Replaced fan circuit breakers, replaced otterstat, and replaced a bunch of hose clamps.

[rdarlington]

Well, I bought an alternator this past weekend due to charge problems I was having. Today the little wiring plug thing showed up. My symptoms were low voltage as shown on the dash till I hit about 2500 RPM. The dash blower would slow way down when the AC was on when I was pushing the engine uphill. I came home after 2 weeks away to a dead battery. Etc.

While searching around for info on the wiring for those 2 wires I came across a video that showed the same thing I saw with the dash voltage meter. Fix for that guy, and fix for me? Replace the battery warning bulb.

Turns out I've been lied to for the last year. The binnacle is trivial to remove so long as the studs aren't rusty. It took all of 5 minutes to climb in there and undo the 6 nuts (4 had washers). No trouble at all. Bulb swap with a 161LL from Autozone ($5 for 2). Bulb swap for the e-brake light as well since that didn't work, but was a different bulb (194 or 194LL). Started right up, voltage was above the 13 mark, headlights were nice and bright white, and all is awesome.

And then I turned on the AC. Hah, something popped. O-ring, hose, something. Well, it dumped oil/freon on hot exhaust and smoked. That's a problem for another day. I just disconnected the compressor so it doesn't try to kick in when I turn the vents on. Sigh.

-Bob

[jawn101]

Well, I bought an alternator this past weekend due to charge problems I was having. Today the little wiring plug thing showed up. My symptoms were low voltage as shown on the dash till I hit about 2500 RPM. The dash blower would slow way down when the AC was on when I was pushing the engine uphill. I came home after 2 weeks away to a dead battery. Etc.

While searching around for info on the wiring for those 2 wires I came across a video that showed the same thing I saw with the dash voltage meter. Fix for that guy, and fix for me? Replace the battery warning bulb.

Turns out I've been lied to for the last year. The binnacle is trivial to remove so long as the studs aren't rusty. It took all of 5 minutes to climb in there and undo the 6 nuts (4 had washers). No trouble at all. Bulb swap with a 161LL from Autozone ($5 for 2). Bulb swap for the e-brake light as well since that didn't work, but was a different bulb (194 or 194LL). Started right up, voltage was above the 13 mark, headlights were nice and bright white, and all is awesome.

And then I turned on the AC. Hah, something popped. O-ring, hose, something. Well, it dumped oil/freon on hot exhaust and smoked. That's a problem for another day. I just disconnected the compressor so it doesn't try to kick in when I turn the vents on. Sigh.

-Bob

Glad to hear it was something that easy. Future reference, you can replace the battery bulb (and actually most of the ones on the far right of the cluster) without even removing the binnacle if you have good dexterity in your hands. There isn't anything blocking your access from beneath to the bulbs, it's just a little awkward to reach. Sorry about the A/C...

[rdarlington]

Glad to hear it was something that easy. Future reference, you can replace the battery bulb (and actually most of the ones on the far right of the cluster) without even removing the binnacle if you have good dexterity in your hands. There isn't anything blocking your access from beneath to the bulbs, it's just a little awkward to reach. Sorry about the A/C...

Oh, I have great dexterity with my hands. I do surface mount electronics, repair wrist watches and pocket watches, and instrumentally inseminate honeybees. They're just big. No way I could get my fat fingers in there!

-Bob

[Tillsy]

Learned a new word - dexterity

[kenny]

Oh, I have great dexterity with my hands. I do surface mount electronics, repair wrist watches and pocket watches, and instrumentally inseminate honeybees.


Dexterity is not what I was drawn to in the above sentence!

[Tillsy]

Stuck home sick today so decided to change my brake fluid - has been precisely two years since I completely rebuilt the system.

Good opportunity to finally give the one-man approach a go - quite surprised how well that went.

[Kukem]

Well, I bought an alternator this past weekend due to charge problems I was having. Today the little wiring plug thing showed up. My symptoms were low voltage as shown on the dash...

I am having this problem too. My voltage is never up to 13. It always sits close to the orange tick right below 13. Would you mind posting a link to that video? I had no idea what that gauge should read normally, and would love to try this if mine is wrong.

[nkemp]

I am having this problem too. My voltage is never up to 13. It always sits close to the orange tick right below 13.

I had the same problem until I improved the ground by running a ground wire to the front and connected the ground junctions to it. Prior to upgrading the ground, the volt meter always looked a bit anemic. So your low voltage reading at the dash may be a ground problem. To check the voltage, use a volt meter and check the voltage at various points. You'll likely see a difference between idle and higher RPM such as 2,000RPM. To see if the gauge is seeing a ground problem, jumper (jumper cables will work) from the ground junction found just above the gas pedal (or near there) to the battery NEGATIVE. If it reads more accurate, you may want to consider a ground bus add.

[Mark D]

Stuck home sick today so decided to change my brake fluid - has been precisely two years since I completely rebuilt the system.

Good opportunity to finally give the one-man approach a go - quite surprised how well that went.

How did the old brake fluid look after you flushed it out? I've heard it will start to get pretty brown after just a couple years compared to the fresh amber colored fluid. I'm coming up on two years next spring to do mine.

Was your one man approach done with a pressure bleeder? If not, how did you go about doing it yourself?

[Tillsy]

How did the old brake fluid look after you flushed it out? I've heard it will start to get pretty brown after just a couple years compared to the fresh amber colored fluid. I'm coming up on two years next spring to do mine.

I'm pretty annoyed with myself actually - when I rebuilt the system and saw how bad it was, I promised myself I'd do it annually. But after two years - yep it was very very brown :(



Was your one man approach done with a pressure bleeder? If not, how did you go about doing it yourself?

It was the cheap little bottle with check valve - so you still pump the brake pedal to push the fluid through, but can leave the nipple open without the hold and close technique as the fluid and air doesn't suck back in. Worked fantastic except for front right - as the first front I didn't take into account the 60/40 difference in the master cylinder and thus more fluid came through for same number of pedal pushes. Bottle overflowed and I had brake fluid everywhere - doh!

[rdarlington]

I am having this problem too. My voltage is never up to 13. It always sits close to the orange tick right below 13. Would you mind posting a link to that video? I had no idea what that gauge should read normally, and would love to try this if mine is wrong.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qB2NpX4c_aA

The key thing is the battery light never lights up when you turn the key. If it doesn't, it's either burned out or disconnected which would cause this issue. It's a 161 bulb (161LL at autozone) and comes in a 2 pack for $4.95 or so.

-Bob

[Farrar]

Gave up on it and said "Better luck next year."

[SS Spoiler]

entered Kalispell MT Glacier street rod car show july 19, in Heritage Days parade at Columbia Falls MT july 26, Show n' shine car show Evergreen MT Aug 2 ,,Flathead County fair parade Kalispell MT [won 30" trophy] And will enter Rumble in The Bay car show in Bigfork MT Aug 31. I could have gone to over 200 car
shows this summer in Montana. I seem to be the only rolling DeLorean in all of northwest MT.

doin' my bit to spread the gospel of John [Z].........

Paul Cerny #2691
Kalispell, MT

[vps3922]

Brought 3922 to a transmission shop close by to check my final drive gear oil level as I had constant drips of gear oil under the car.

They said that the level was fine and tightened the nuts along the split seal and the drain. No drips so far (knock on wood)!

They were pretty cool. They loved the car, took a lot of shots and did the check "on the house"! Awesome!

[rdarlington]

LED conversion done this weekend for the binnacle. An added bonus was that brake light that now lights up for the first time since I got the car. When I was in there replacing the battery light, I actually did replace the one for the brake indicator, but it never lit up. Maybe turning that bulb mount twice was what it took to clean the contacts. Bonus! While the binnacle was out the 2nd time I painted it with the SEM 17333 charcoal gray fabric dye stuff before putting it back in. I also managed to order two more cans of this recently discontinued product for when I do the dash someday.

I also figured out that Bar Keepers Friend takes out those hard water stains I had on my car. Sweet, they're gone. Vinegar, stainless polish, CLR, blending pad, etc, all failed. This stuff worked and it was pretty effortless. I used some bottle of liquid. I hear it comes as a powder too but haven't tried that.

Lubricated the lower speedo cable and now that gage is nice and smooth. I'm about 150 miles away from hitting 5000 on the clock after doing a 50 mile round trip ride to wally world (walmart).

Sun shade was ordered from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Y5DB4C - $47.99 delivered.

-Bob

[jawn101]

Gave up on it and said "Better luck next year."

Well, this is a bummer...

[alexwolf1216]

Removed the cooling fans
Bought all new nuts/bolts/washers for the cooling fans
Rewired the front marker light (had some random connection). All lights except the headlights and center stack are now LED.

Purchased my first dremel, to cut the radiator bracket for stud replacement.

[djdogbone]

The system will NOT charge if the dashboard battery light is burned out. You must replace it.

[Kukem]

The system will NOT charge if the dashboard battery light is burned out. You must replace it.

I have been reading through all of these recent posts and threads because I too am having low voltage issues. Found my first melted fuse Saturday trying to figure this out. yay me... Anyways, my battery light comes on, but is very dim and flickers. It is never a solidly lit light or bright. I am checking grounds now and just ruled out my battery. I will look into this light.

[Farrar]

Well, this is a bummer...

Reality is frequently a bummer. It will be very difficult between now and next summer for me to get more than a couple of hours a week to devote to the car. A few hours a week is fine if the car is running and in good shape -- I can drive it every weekend and fix what breaks along the way. But when the car has been sitting for a year and won't start, a few hours a week is just enough time to drive myself insane. Better to avoid the stress and get back to the car when I have more time.

[JohnZ]

Reality is frequently a bummer. It will be very difficult between now and next summer for me to get more than a couple of hours a week to devote to the car. A few hours a week is fine if the car is running and in good shape -- I can drive it every weekend and fix what breaks along the way. But when the car has been sitting for a year and won't start, a few hours a week is just enough time to drive myself insane. Better to avoid the stress and get back to the car when I have more time.

That's a very defeatist attitude, Dougal!

http://wondersinthedark.files.wordpress.com/2012/11/father_ted_feckin_mrs_doyle.jpg

[Farrar]

That's a very defeatist attitude, Dougal!

They had "Father Ted" in Italy? Neat! :)

I'll probably go out and tinker on the car when the weather gets cool, but I do not expect to get it running any time soon.

[JohnZ]

They had "Father Ted" in Italy? Neat! :)

No we don't. But I usually go and find out all that deserves in both music and cinema! And Ted's one of my favourite! :)

Aaaanyway... we want you behind the wheel Farrar! :rollin:

[GS450-Junkie]

LED conversion done this weekend for the binnacle. An added bonus was that brake light that now lights up for the first time since I got the car. When I was in there replacing the battery light, I actually did replace the one for the brake indicator, but it never lit up. Maybe turning that bulb mount twice was what it took to clean the contacts. Bonus! While the binnacle was out the 2nd time I painted it with the SEM 17333 charcoal gray fabric dye stuff before putting it back in. I also managed to order two more cans of this recently discontinued product for when I do the dash someday.

I also figured out that Bar Keepers Friend takes out those hard water stains I had on my car. Sweet, they're gone. Vinegar, stainless polish, CLR, blending pad, etc, all failed. This stuff worked and it was pretty effortless. I used some bottle of liquid. I hear it comes as a powder too but haven't tried that.

Lubricated the lower speedo cable and now that gage is nice and smooth. I'm about 150 miles away from hitting 5000 on the clock after doing a 50 mile round trip ride to wally world (walmart).

Sun shade was ordered from amazon: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Y5DB4C - $47.99 delivered.

-Bob

Do not use the powder...it gets everywhere!!

[Farrar]

Aaaanyway... we want you behind the wheel Farrar! :rollin:

So does my fiancé -- she said "If all it needs is is a new ignition coil, I'll buy you one." LOL

[jawn101]

I replaced my low note horn with a new one from DMCMW. When I got the car, it was burned out completely. Replaced it with something marked "L" from Pick-n-Pull, which turned out to most likely be "Left" instead of "Low". Having two high note horns made the car sound decidedly like something the European version of Barbie would drive. With a proper low note installed, I think folks might actually hear me honking now.

http://youtu.be/Fg-Hd0P4Wrw
Before

http://youtu.be/tZ2Wi6Chsto
After

[GS450-Junkie]

I replaced my low note horn with a new one from DMCMW. When I got the car, it was burned out completely. Replaced it with something marked "L" from Pick-n-Pull, which turned out to most likely be "Left" instead of "Low". Having two high note horns made the car sound decidedly like something the European version of Barbie would drive. With a proper low note installed, I think folks might actually hear me honking now.

http://youtu.be/Fg-Hd0P4Wrw
Before

http://youtu.be/tZ2Wi6Chsto
After


Wow.... Nice before horn!! :sissy: (You were going to get the gay emoticon, but it appears to be missing so I'll give you "sissy") LOL

[GS450-Junkie]

I started it with Bitsyncmaster's new RPM relay installed. Fired right up. Nice Job David!

Haven't driven the car in a long time. Couple questions.....

What lights on the dash are supposed to light up when I turn the key on? I CAN'T REMEMBER!!!! (How pathetic). My door light, seat belt light (comes on and then goes out), battery light, oil light, and brake light all come on. The lambda and fuel light do not. Sound right?

Was messing around with my power windows tonight. My passenger side is really SLLLLLOOOOOOWWWW. Does this mean the motor is dying?

[Mark D]

Yeah if the windows are really slow the motors are ready to die. Both of mine are pretty much toast. I haven't dug into the doors yet on either side but the drivers side has now jumped the track and I have to manually shimmy it into place to get it all the way up. Sounds like we should have a window motor/regulator swap tech day. Did you ever get your clutch and brakes flushed/bled? I did my BMW the other day (uses the same cap as the DeLorean) and I'm a pro with the power bleeder. If you're still wanting a hand sometime let me know.

[Farrar]

Do not use the powder...it gets everywhere!!

+1 on this. If you find yourself at Bed, Bath, & Beyond they sometimes have the liquid BKF on massive sale. Last time they did I bought a few bottles and "stocked up." LOL

[Jonathan]

I started it with Bitsyncmaster's new RPM relay installed. Fired right up. Nice Job David!

Haven't driven the car in a long time. Couple questions.....

What lights on the dash are supposed to light up when I turn the key on? I CAN'T REMEMBER!!!! (How pathetic). My door light, seat belt light (comes on and then goes out), battery light, oil light, and brake light all come on. The lambda and fuel light do not. Sound right?

Was messing around with my power windows tonight. My passenger side is really SLLLLLOOOOOOWWWW. Does this mean the motor is dying?

Door light/seatbelt light will go out when you close the door/put your seatbelt on (buzzer tied to that too if you have it plugged in).
Battery light coming on when you turn the key is normal and mandatory for the alternator to be charging the battery properly. Goes out when the car is started assuming no problems.
Oil light I did not think came on when you turned the key. I cannot find it documented anywhere so perhaps someone else can confirm? I thought it only came on with a low oil level and not in that start-up sequence. It does not come on in my car when I start the engine.
Brake light comes on only if the parking brake lever is pulled up or there is a problem with the fluid level in the reservoir. It is not part of the start-up sequence normally if not engaged.
Lambda and fuel light not coming on at start-up is normal. They would only be lit if there is a problem (as with brake light).

I saw you post about putting in the LED window switches and blowing a fuse. Not sure if you got that sorted out or not, but I know when I replaced my switches with those same ones, it immediately corrected some bad/slow window movement. Definitely could still be a sign of the motors going out, but the switches going bad was a large part in why mine originally struggled.

Was meaning to ask you if you were able to use any of those seatbelt parts I sent you? Nice to hear you've got your car back running again.

[jawn101]

Oil pressure light will come on at key-on, since there is no oil pressure... :)

[DavidProehl]

I replaced my low note horn with a new one from DMCMW. When I got the car, it was burned out completely. Replaced it with something marked "L" from Pick-n-Pull, which turned out to most likely be "Left" instead of "Low". Having two high note horns made the car sound decidedly like something the European version of Barbie would drive. With a proper low note installed, I think folks might actually hear me honking now.

http://youtu.be/Fg-Hd0P4Wrw
Before

http://youtu.be/tZ2Wi6Chsto
After

Your after video is private so I can't see it, but that before video does sound a bit off!

[jawn101]

Your after video is private so I can't see it, but that before video does sound a bit off!

Oops!! Fixed that. Thanks :)

[GS450-Junkie]

Yeah if the windows are really slow the motors are ready to die. Both of mine are pretty much toast. I haven't dug into the doors yet on either side but the drivers side has now jumped the track and I have to manually shimmy it into place to get it all the way up. Sounds like we should have a window motor/regulator swap tech day. Did you ever get your clutch and brakes flushed/bled? I did my BMW the other day (uses the same cap as the DeLorean) and I'm a pro with the power bleeder. If you're still wanting a hand sometime let me know.

I had DMCMW do them last winter when they stored the car. That is when they informed me that the master is leaking. :( I will get down there to Point someday. :) I have the power bleeder, just need to learn to use it as I am sure it is pretty simple.

[DavidProehl]

Oops!! Fixed that. Thanks :)

There it is! Yes, dramatic difference!

[LordFly]

Today I drove the D to work. The poor car has been stuck in the garage for months while I've been travelling for work :( Nice to have it out though. Made it about 2 minutes into lunch for I got an "is it real?" question :rolleyes1:

[nkemp]

... I too am having low voltage issues. Found my first melted fuse Saturday trying to figure this out. ...

Do you have a low voltage issue or is it just how your dash displays. Use a voltmeter to check actual voltage. My dash displayed low voltage until I improved the ground. As such, it never was a low voltage issue.

As far as the melted fuse...A prevailing thought was that it is a loose connection that could cause the hot fuse. I had a melted fuse and replaced it with a pigtail fuse and it failed catastrophically and it had a VERY TIGHT connection. You can read more at: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?9975-7-Fuse-How-hot-it-gets In my failed pigtail, I favor a high resistance ground brought on by corrosion possibly aided by out-gassing of the rubber boot. I have an Optima battery so out-gassing is not as much as a factor.

[rdarlington]

The system will NOT charge if the dashboard battery light is burned out. You must replace it.

Mine has been charging for a year now without that light, just poorly, and not at all below about 2500 RPM.

-bob

[Tillsy]

Kids are really sick at the moment, so the wife gave me a leave pass for the afternoon as I haven't taken the DeLorean out for a good month now (been really busy plus doing lots of odds and ends on the car so it's been on jack stands).

Started off bad - dead battery due to having doors open, radio on, etc whilst working on her over the past month.

So I quickly jump started her and went for a 3.5 hour drive.

Tell you what - no amount of massage, meditation, etc comes close to the relaxation and enjoyment that comes from such a gorgeous drive :)

[AugustneverEnds]

Mine has been charging for a year now without that light, just poorly, and not at all below about 2500 RPM.

-bob

Same story here. Light hasn't come on since May. Doesn't charge when first started, begins to charge at ~2500 RPM, maxes out at 13.5 volts. I'm planning on replacing all the instrument cluster lights and I think the ground on the rear passenger side could use a cleaning.

[DMCMW Dave]

Mine has been charging for a year now without that light, just poorly, and not at all below about 2500 RPM.

-bob

That's typical of "no bulb". Problem is that in normal driving you are not usually above 2500.

[nkemp]

Same story here. Light hasn't come on since May. Doesn't charge when first started, begins to charge at ~2500 RPM, maxes out at 13.5 volts. I'm planning on replacing all the instrument cluster lights and I think the ground on the rear passenger side could use a cleaning.

What makes you guys think it is not charging? Are you basing it on what the dash gauge reads? If so, try running a temporary jumper from the ground cluster to the battery NEGATIVE and see if the gauge reads better. Mine did.

[DavidProehl]

Finally finished my stereo upgrade project. I've been working on it piecemeal over the past 14 months. Started with replacing the front speakers last summer, then did the rears (and picked up a sub) over the winter, now I finally got the amp installed. The sub I've had in my car for the past 8 months has finally come to life!

I'm using the XD300/1v2 amp - Thanks to Jon for the amp suggestion and install location idea (http://www.8bitdmc.com/2013/03/subwoofer-install/).

I wanted all changes to be invisible (apart from the sub in the cubby) and easily reversible. No splicing or modifications to stock wires were done (used Video Bob's Craig harness extension to avoid splicing into stock wires). I'm running left and right front speaker level signals from the Craig to the amp, and it sounds fantastic. Couldn't be more pleased with the results.

I know in terms of modern head units the Craig may be underpowered and less sophisticated, but I can turn it up past the point of my ears hurting and it still sounds good. For those wanting to maintain an original appearance while receiving a major audio upgrade, this is a great approach.

A couple photos from the whole project:

One post on a front speaker was stripped at the end, had to use an extension (not show) to grab onto the good threads.
30220

3022230223

The amp I installed:
30226

Sub that is in the DMC-CA cubby enclosure:
30221
30224

Ready to close it up!
30225

Completely hidden. You'd never know it was there! This amp runs exceptionally cool and needs little air circulation. However in the remote chance it would overheat, it goes into a fail safe mode that allows for reduced output. It never shuts off entirely.
30227

[Domi]

Nice and clean :thumbup2:

[DavidProehl]

Nice and clean :thumbup2:

Thanks! Very excited to have this done. When I first started the project only 1 of my 4 speakers was properly connected and working. Upgrading to 4 modern speakers and a nice sub has been a night and day difference!

[rdarlington]

Same story here. Light hasn't come on since May. Doesn't charge when first started, begins to charge at ~2500 RPM, maxes out at 13.5 volts. I'm planning on replacing all the instrument cluster lights and I think the ground on the rear passenger side could use a cleaning.

Autozone 161LL bulb. Pack of two for $5. Assuming you're flexible, have a nice 3/8" extension and the right size socket (7mm? 8?) and no rust, it's a 15 minute job. I was lead to believe that the binnacle was a very hard thing to remove. No, it's 6 nuts, 4 washers, 2 electrical connectors and a speedo cable connector. It's really easy (again, assuming no rust, you're flexible, have the right tool, good lighting, etc).

-Bob

[jawn101]

Finally finished my stereo upgrade project. I've been working on it piecemeal over the past 14 months. Started with replacing the front speakers last summer, then did the rears (and picked up a sub) over the winter, now I finally got the amp installed. The sub I've had in my car for the past 8 months has finally come to life!

I'm using the XD300/1v2 amp - Thanks to Jon for the amp suggestion and install location idea (http://www.8bitdmc.com/2013/03/subwoofer-install/).

I wanted all changes to be invisible (apart from the sub in the cubby) and easily reversible. No splicing or modifications to stock wires were done (used Video Bob's Craig harness extension to avoid splicing into stock wires). I'm running left and right front speaker level signals from the Craig to the amp, and it sounds fantastic. Couldn't be more pleased with the results.

I know in terms of modern head units the Craig may be underpowered and less sophisticated, but I can turn it up past the point of my ears hurting and it still sounds good. For those wanting to maintain an original appearance while receiving a major audio upgrade, this is a great approach.

A couple photos from the whole project:

One post on a front speaker was stripped at the end, had to use an extension (not show) to grab onto the good threads.
30220

3022230223

The amp I installed:
30226

Sub that is in the DMC-CA cubby enclosure:
30221
30224

Ready to close it up!
30225

Completely hidden. You'd never know it was there! This amp runs exceptionally cool and needs little air circulation. However in the remote chance it would overheat, it goes into a fail safe mode that allows for reduced output. It never shuts off entirely.
30227

Looks great! That was one smart guy whose guide you followed :) It's definitely going to be better than what you had....

[Lenny]

The 6th grader across the street asked me if I would take him to school. I did and when we got the there it was empty. He looked at me and in a sad little pout said, "There's nobody here".

So I decided I pick him up. I parked across from the crosswalk where all the kids have to go. He was really happy to see me.

While Parked there a car stopped at the stoplight, the passenger jumped out took a picture then got back in the car.

[AugustneverEnds]

Changed the oil and filter. Castrol 20w-50 and Bosch filter. Replaced the square drive drain plug (the square was a bit filed down) with a SpecialT magnetic plug. Fits like a charm, no drips, pressure is good.... Can't believe I've driven 3500 miles already this year even though the summer so far in Upstate NY has kinda sucked weatherwise :huh:

[AugustneverEnds]

Autozone 161LL bulb. Pack of two for $5. Assuming you're flexible, have a nice 3/8" extension and the right size socket (7mm? 8?) and no rust, it's a 15 minute job. I was lead to believe that the binnacle was a very hard thing to remove. No, it's 6 nuts, 4 washers, 2 electrical connectors and a speedo cable connector. It's really easy (again, assuming no rust, you're flexible, have the right tool, good lighting, etc).

-Bob

Sounds simple enough, thanks!! I also thought taking the binnacle out was PITA. I think I'm fairly flexible (haha a benefit of being vertically challenged!) Perhaps I'll tackle this before the winter arrives

[alexwolf1216]

Replaced the radiator, cooling fans, and the 4 short hoses in the front of the car. It was a complete PITA.

Added Dave M's hot start relay, replaced both door shocks, installed all my LED lights in the taillight boards.

[Silverbullet]

Replaced the radiator, cooling fans, and the 4 short hoses in the front of the car. It was a complete PITA.

Added Dave M's hot start relay, replaced both door shocks, installed all my LED lights in the taillight boards.

Wow... You have been busy....

Craig

[alexwolf1216]

Wow... You have been busy....

Craig

I finally got to drive the car to work today. Totally worh all the headaches so far. Next project is the radio. :rollin:

[NightFlyer]

I finally got to drive the car to work today. Totally worh all the headaches so far. Next project is the radio. :rollin:

And - what's the maximum running temp now?

[alexwolf1216]

it was below the first tick (190?) all the way to work this morning, stop and go traffic around 35 minutes, with the AC on MAX, fan speed 2. Roughly 85 outside. Test drive yesterday it barely creeped above it, but we were at 102 or 103.

[NightFlyer]

it was below the first tick (190?) all the way to work this morning, stop and go traffic around 35 minutes, with the AC on MAX, fan speed 2. Roughly 85 outside. Test drive yesterday it barely creeped above it, but we were at 102 or 103.

Much more better - congrats on getting the cooling system sorted :thumbup:

[Rich_NYS]

The 6th grader across the street asked me if I would take him to school. I did and when we got the there it was empty. He looked at me and in a sad little pout said, "There's nobody here".

So I decided I pick him up. I parked across from the crosswalk where all the kids have to go. He was really happy to see me.

While Parked there a car stopped at the stoplight, the passenger jumped out took a picture then got back in the car.

Awesome....

[Rich_NYS]

David, your amp install is the bomb-diggity....if/when I install an amp, I'm totally copying your install.

Very nice!

[NightFlyer]

David, your amp install is the bomb-diggity....if/when I install an amp, I'm totally copying your install.

Very nice!

Indeed - it's a great looking install all around :thumbup:

[DavidProehl]

David, your amp install is the bomb-diggity....if/when I install an amp, I'm totally copying your install.

Very nice!


Indeed - it's a great looking install all around :thumbup:

Thanks guys!

[elfking]

So American Canyon, CA / Napa had quite a shake (6.0) over the weekend... This happens to be close to my place. I have an old/ very poor quality IP camera that I just leave running in the garage and it got some interesting footage...

So what I have done today is decided I need make sure my Jeep hardtop doesn't fall onto the car!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckPIfSmrho4&feature=youtu.be

If you have anything hanging over your car, please make sure it is secure.

[DavidProehl]

So American Canyon, CA / Napa had quite a shake (6.0) over the weekend... This happens to be close to my place. I have an old/ very poor quality IP camera that I just leave running in the garage and it got some interesting footage...

So what I have done today is decided I need make sure my Jeep hardtop doesn't fall onto the car!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ckPIfSmrho4&feature=youtu.be

If you have anything hanging over your car, please make sure it is secure.

Crazy video! Glad it doesn't look like there was any major damage.

I've heard from others in Lodi that felt the quake, but I slept through it. Still haven't been awake to feel a quake since moving here in 2012.

[jwrayth]

Finally tackled the shifter bushings in the manual linkage. Thanks to Ozzie (and Mike) for the great guide on his blog! And since I was in there I gave the shifter assembly a good clean and removed all the 30 year old dirt and grease and other detritus in the frame.

Before and after. Well, almost after. I greased up the shifter after this picture, but then it's harder to see how clean it was :P

30329

[Jonathan]

Replaced the paper gaskets on the W pipe. I've had the gaskets for a while, originally as part of an order with replacement spark plugs, wires, distributor, etc. Those have never gone in, and the paper gaskets I thought might help at least a little bit in eliminating any remaining sources of unmetered air/vacuum leaks on the car.

Easy job really. Funny how that happens when you finally get to work with some bolts or fasteners that aren't rusty. Noted my deceleration springs look very nice, so that rules out those as another possibility why my idle has been sticky in the past.

I found the torque value in the workshop manual for "Inlet Manifold Fixing Bolts" and figured since there wasn't one specifically for the W pipe, this would due. It called for 9 ft-lb or 14 N-m. There's nothing really unusual about that except the conversion isn't correct. 9 ft-lb equals 12.2 N-m and 14 N-m equals 10.3 ft-lb. Not that big a deal I guess, just odd that they didn't get it right. Must have been the exchange rate or something back then ;)

[DMC81]

I was removing all the loose coating off the rear absorber bar and noticed this marking underneath. . . Is it a quality control mark or maybe just someones initials? Anyone else ever seen this before?


3033030331

[elfking]

Crazy video! Glad it doesn't look like there was any major damage.

I've heard from others in Lodi that felt the quake, but I slept through it. Still haven't been awake to feel a quake since moving here in 2012.

I consider myself lucky... Not too much (serious) damage just things being knocked off the walls.. my 12ft x 12ft shed moved 1/4" off its base... Things stored up high fell over etc.. Kitchen cabinets started separating from the wall a tiny bit.. Cracks on the pavement... When looking on either side of my walk ways up and around the house on either side of it now has a gap where the walkway was moving side to side...

All things that are fixable, or probably should have been thrown out / recycled anyways. Much better shape then a lot of other people. We have family in Napa and they have much bigger problems, broken water lines / gas lines, structural damage to the houses etc. Everything in hutches / walls fallen over and broken.. Not good at all.

[Jonathan]

This was a 1939 Packard Straight 8 (as opposed to the movie car being a 1948 Packard Custom 8 Victoria), and I was thrilled to see them park beside me at the cruise night tonight.

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[sdg3205]

Testing the fuel accumulator for a hot start issue on 4916.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/a2da2e36b4156be4831d5fc00cab3ad1.jpg
http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/28/7f938f5816edd0719bb98dd483290515.jpg

[SIMid]

Verdict Dave?

[sdg3205]

Verdict Dave?

It held 19 in Hg no problem. At Steven and Toby's recommendation I took a look at the PPR and I may have found the problem.

You can see the small black o ring was all cockeyed and deteriorated. Not sure if that little guy can cause a problem or not?

As always both Toby's and the communities support has been phenomenal.

http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/6a2575eba14bcb2e0b07a2850c9f1b5f.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/7ff5a920f780cf856cab2e678f341226.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/437257ec3116fae9b372924d937e0178.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/4fccf31700c3469d3d1f7d547e674714.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/d5c5df1a67ed1041e8de19ec43ddb049.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/a4df9a2e1954730adc8a4e6bc4661111.jpghttp://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/14/08/29/f1f322ce728bd798900d936a31ff62a0.jpg

[Dangermouse]

I consider myself lucky... Not too much (serious) damage just things being knocked off the walls.. my 12ft x 12ft shed moved 1/4" off its base... Things stored up high fell over etc.. Kitchen cabinets started separating from the wall a tiny bit.. Cracks on the pavement... When looking on either side of my walk ways up and around the house on either side of it now has a gap where the walkway was moving side to side...

All things that are fixable, or probably should have been thrown out / recycled anyways. Much better shape then a lot of other people. We have family in Napa and they have much bigger problems, broken water lines / gas lines, structural damage to the houses etc. Everything in hutches / walls fallen over and broken.. Not good at all.

Did you really rush out and check that the D was OK in the middle of the quake? :bigclap:

Or did the light come on by itself

[elfking]

Did you really rush out and check that the D was OK in the middle of the quake? :bigclap:

Or did the light come on by itself

Haha no, the light came in when power came back on for a couple moments. Same with that camera actually not being on a backup battery...

I went in only a few min after it stopped to check for gas/water leaks / damage... But it was 3am so I checked the basics and went back to bed / sat in bed answering about 50 text messages and phone calls from people hah.

Been totally ignorant about a quake and securing things to walls etc.. Lesson surely learned

[Rich_NYS]

This was a 1939 Packard Straight 8 (as opposed to the movie car being a 1948 Packard Custom 8 Victoria), and I was thrilled to see them park beside me at the cruise night tonight.

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I like this pic....looks really cool.

[Flicky]

I spent yesterday cleaning out my garage. I found an old Roxette cassette tape and figured I'd see if my radio actually played them. I started the car up to charge a little since I had it sitting for a few days after another 1,400 mile road trip. After listening to the craig's electronics mangle Joyride, I gave it a little gas and noticed some squeaking from the belts. I got out of the car to find a pool of green under the back and drippings from the water pump. After a closer investigation today it is just a little hole in the hose on the right hand side closest to the pump. Does anyone know a good silicone hose replacement? I looked over at SpecialT since I saw he had some hoses, but I don't know what set to get. Is it just a hose cut to length?

Thanks

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[alexwolf1216]

I had a busy day.

Removed the seats, console, and center stack.
Rebuilt the mode switch
Installed a new stereo
Removed the rear panels
Installed new rear speakers

I used a heat gun to remove the vinyl, but some of it cracked anyway. The ends were covered in a black RTV type of black goo. My question is, how the heck do I reinstall these panels? Do I use some sort of adhesive then cover it back up with black goo?

[DMCMW Dave]

. My question is, how the heck do I reinstall these panels? Do I use some sort of adhesive then cover it back up with black goo?

Ideally you don't use anything. You heat it again and the original glue will set back up, and the inner door seals will hold it in place. If it's cut, or someone "cleaned" all the glue off and replaced it, you'll have to improvise. Probably headliner glue. You want something that will come off again later with some heat, not something permanent such as weatherstrip adhesive.

[alexwolf1216]

Ideally you don't use anything. You heat it again and the original glue will set back up, and the inner door seals will hold it in place. If it's cut, or someone "cleaned" all the glue off and replaced it, you'll have to improvise. Probably headliner glue. You want something that will come off again later with some heat, not something permanent such as weatherstrip adhesive.

Dadblast it. I cleaned off the fiberglass.........Also, my inner seals are all torn up. Do the new ones use the same clips or are they self adhering?

[DMCMW Dave]

Dadblast it. I cleaned off the fiberglass.........Also, my inner seals are all torn up. Do the new ones use the same clips or are they self adhering?

The new ones come with clips (optional use). They are not adhesive at all, they are held on by spring friction. I.E. you have to press them on with some effort.

[alexwolf1216]

The new ones come with clips (optional use). They are not adhesive at all, they are held on by spring friction. I.E. you have to press them on with some effort.

OK, I will call ti place my order tomorrow.

[DMCMW Dave]

OK, I will call ti place my order tomorrow.

Shop is closed for Labor Day, I may or may not be there as I have a home project to get done (I've been putting it off for about a year!)

[Tillsy]

Is it just a hose cut to length?

No, those two hoses are moulded to shape.

http://store.delorean.com/p-6257-water-pump-upr-hose.aspx

[Flicky]

No, those two hoses are moulded to shape.

Cool, thanks! On later cars did they switch to just having one hose, or is that just the aftermarket way?

Like in this picture:
http://www.specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/images/water-pump-silicone-blue.jpg

[DMCMW Dave]

Cool, thanks! On later cars did they switch to just having one hose, or is that just the aftermarket way?



It was changed on later cars. Both ways are molded hose.

[Jonathan]

I like this pic....looks really cool.

Thanks Rich. It was the last show of the season and a great turn out. This Packard was really neat. I don't know much about them, but not the sort of vehicle you see near as often as many of the others.


I used a heat gun to remove the vinyl, but some of it cracked anyway. The ends were covered in a black RTV type of black goo. My question is, how the heck do I reinstall these panels? Do I use some sort of adhesive then cover it back up with black goo?


Ideally you don't use anything. You heat it again and the original glue will set back up, and the inner door seals will hold it in place. If it's cut, or someone "cleaned" all the glue off and replaced it, you'll have to improvise. Probably headliner glue. You want something that will come off again later with some heat, not something permanent such as weatherstrip adhesive.

Was going to also ask you Rich, did you have any luck with that idea about using a black or grey strip of vinyl from a 3 ring binder to put in as a substitute for a previous owner cutting the vinyl strip on a rear interior panel as the guys here mentioned?

It sounded like a great idea and material that is readily available. And to maybe somehow do it so that it hides behind the back side of the panel and then under the weather striping if you sized it just right. Pretty much just a bit of extra material to give you something to work with to get it to seal back up the way it was intended.

There seems to be lots of us with at least one side or two that got opened up the wrong way and not sure how to repair it. Loved the idea when you mentioned it to me.

[alexwolf1216]

Got the car put back together today. My cigarette LED and hazard LED arent working, but im worn out from 18 straight working hours. Trying to get the rear panels back on with the heat gun is a true PITA. I was tempted to take them to my interior shop and have them done, but save that for another day.

Cleared plugged AC drain with a shop vac
Added jam nuts to the sway bar
tinkered with door alignment

Advice for someone that is thinking of rear speakers......its a super tedious and fragile job.

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[vwdmc16]

Realigned my gas flap. Thought about all the other things I need to fix and instantly felt tired.

[dustybarn]

Returned today from a week's vacation in the Adirondacks. 200 miles each way. 1776 performed without a hiccup all week.
30480
In Old Forge, with a younger cousin:
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[Rich_NYS]

Was going to also ask you Rich, did you have any luck with that idea about using a black or grey strip of vinyl from a 3 ring binder to put in as a substitute for a previous owner cutting the vinyl strip on a rear interior panel as the guys here mentioned?

It sounded like a great idea and material that is readily available. And to maybe somehow do it so that it hides behind the back side of the panel and then under the weather striping if you sized it just right. Pretty much just a bit of extra material to give you something to work with to get it to seal back up the way it was intended.

There seems to be lots of us with at least one side or two that got opened up the wrong way and not sure how to repair it. Loved the idea when you mentioned it to me.

It worked out well, but I didn't get a lot of good pics and I need to do some adjusting. I plan to share something here after I take more/better pics during my door seal replacement, but here's what I have for now:

Repair piece attached, no paint:

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After paint:

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After install (opposite side...needs adjustment.)

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[robvanderveer]

what can you do when the DeLorean is away getting a new AC?


http://youtu.be/pidevZ5senk
direct link: http://youtu.be/pidevZ5senk

[ALEXAKOS]

Shit you're fast Rob!! In hurry to post on the BOOB WED ? ;)

[Patrick C]

Ran all new headlight wiring (10 gauge) and installed HID headlights.

[ALEXAKOS]

Ran all new headlight wiring (10 gauge) and installed HID headlights.

I see a bright future ahead of you!
I am current also doing that. Have you installed the dmcmw headlight switch upgrade or is this with the stock wiring?

[Dangermouse]

what can you do when the DeLorean is away getting a new AC?


http://youtu.be/pidevZ5senk
direct link: http://youtu.be/pidevZ5senk


:aniclap:

[DMC5180]

Ran all new headlight wiring (10 gauge) and installed HID headlights.

Patrick,

Did you do a complete Housing change or did you already have the housings and just did one of those drop in H4,H1 replacement kits? I'm just curious whose Kit you installed. I know they have gotten much cheaper since I originally did my (DOT approved) HID upgrade in 2005.

[Tillsy]

Today marks a week into overhauling the wiring behind the front centre console - never been happy with the mess that's behind there, some PO disasters (as always it's not necessarily the PO themselves, but I think a vendor did a shoddy job on some wiring there), and thanks to my custom centre console some of that wiring is obsolete.

Should be very tidy and sleek behind there by the time I'm done - which will be great as there's enough vacuum and mechanical lines jammed behind there as is.

[Patrick C]

Patrick,

Did you do a complete Housing change or did you already have the housings and just did one of those drop in H4,H1 replacement kits? I'm just curious whose Kit you installed. I know they have gotten much cheaper since I originally did my (DOT approved) HID upgrade in 2005.

I've been running different housings for over a year with H4 bulbs, so I ended up buying an HID conversion kit with 4 bulbs and ballasts and used my existing housings.

[ALEXAKOS]

I've been running different housings for over a year with H4 bulbs, so I ended up buying an HID conversion kit with 4 bulbs and ballasts and used my existing housings.

Didn't get a reply if you have changed anything with the headlight switch. Is it stock wiring or dmcmw bypass upgrade!?

[Patrick C]

Didn't get a reply if you have changed anything with the headlight switch. Is it stock wiring or dmcmw bypass upgrade!?

Stock headlight switch. All new 10 gauge wiring run from the battery to the xenon ballasts. The original headlight wires now only trigger a relay.

[Jonathan]

Replaced my rear brake pads with new ones. And like that... poof, my clacking and clicking is gone :)

I had the pad set from a while ago when I rebuilt my front calipers, but had not put the rears in (no caliper rebuild this time around). Over the last while, I was hearing some clanking as I got on the brakes each time initially after being at speed.

Turns out the pads that were in there were not quite large enough to fill the space. Not the thickness of the pad mind you, but the length and width. There was too much slop and when I got going after stopping at a light, they would move in the direction of travel and then what I think was happening was that as soon as you hit the brakes again, it would grab and clank them against the sides of the caliper before gripping the rotor.

Good call Dave S on that one as you had guessed this is what the problem was some time ago. Thanks for the help.

[DMC5180]

I've been running different housings for over a year with H4 bulbs, so I ended up buying an HID conversion kit with 4 bulbs and ballasts and used my existing housings.

How does your set up do HI/LO on the outer bulbs?

[Patrick C]

How does your set up do HI/LO on the outer bulbs?

No, I wired in an extra relay so that when the highs go on, all 4 housings are using Xenon. Some setups have a halogen that goes on in the lows when you turn on the high beams and the xenon goes off. I didn't care for that.

Low Beams:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=30542&d=1410064362

High Beams:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=30543&d=1410064376

[Trstno1]

I'm pretty excited as I just placed my first two orders for parts!! From Hervey, I have reconditioned front and rear brake calipers, master cylinder, and front and rear rotors on the way!! From DMCH, I have miscellaneous interior parts.

I cannot wait!!!!!

:headbang:

[Tillsy]

I'm pretty excited as I just placed my first two orders for parts!! From Hervey... I cannot wait!!!!

Very likely a few months sorry :(

[Trstno1]

http://img.tapatalk.com/d/14/07/31/a6amu6yj.jpg

Look what came in today! !!! So excited

Where did you purchase the steering wheel? I have been looking for one like this for awhile.

[Trstno1]

Very likely a few months sorry :(

A few months? Why so long?

[AugustneverEnds]

A few months? Why so long?

Sometimes orders from SpecialT take a few weeks to be processed and shipped and finally arrive at your doorstep. Also, more than once, orders from SpecialT have arrived incomplete. John Hervey works alone and may be difficult to get a hold of to straighten your order out. And sometimes they go through without a hitch. Here's to hoping your order is the latter :meditation:

[alexwolf1216]

Where did you purchase the steering wheel? I have been looking for one like this for awhile.
This came from DMCMW. Dave and Julee rock there.

[Trstno1]

This came from DMCMW. Dave and Julee rock there.

How much does one of those put you back.

[alexwolf1216]

The wheel was like $30. but the adapter was $189 I think? worth every cent to me!

[Silverbullet]

The wheel was like $30. but the adapter was $189 I think? worth every cent to me!

Ah.... the wheel was $30???????

Craig

[alexwolf1216]

Ah.... the wheel was $30???????

Craig

Yea, and it feels good too. Might have been $39

[Silverbullet]

Yea, and it feels good too. Might have been $39

Is it an exchange, you send your old wheel in? I can't believe they can sell it for that...

Craig

[alexwolf1216]

Is it an exchange, you send your old wheel in? I can't believe they can sell it for that...

Craig

No, I have my old wheel on my workbench. This one isnt a real Momo, its a knockoff.

[Silverbullet]

No, I have my old wheel on my workbench. This one isnt a real Momo, its a knockoff.

Take a pic of the old one from the side view and front, and then the new one side and front. I think this is something I would like to do...

Craig

[alexwolf1216]

3055430555

Stupid photos are sideways......

[Silverbullet]

3055430555

Stupid photos are sideways......

I guess the adaptor looks big because the steering wheel does not dish inward...

Craig

[Nicholas R]

Made a lamp out of the stock camshaft!

30556

[DMC5180]

I guess the adaptor looks big because the steering wheel does not dish inward...

Craig

This latest adapter is longer than the original one that DMCH sold. I have a genuine mono evolution wheel with the original DMCH adapter. My fat fingers tend too hit the signal stalk if the switch is in the low beam position. One these days I plan on making a 1/2" spacer to put between adapter and wheel. I don't need the full 1 inch that matches the factory wheel distance.

[Jonathan]

Went on a really nice drive today on a route I hadn’t been aware of until recently. The road closely followed the shoreline of Georgian Bay and it was a perfect sunny day for a cruise.

I stopped to get gas just as I was beginning my trip and it occurred to me that we need a new word to describe some DeLorean related things out there.

Our new word is:

DeLaparrazi (noun)

[dee-lah-puh-raht-see]

1.) a regular Joe who specializes in random conversation and awkward camera shots of people and their DeLorean and often invades their privacy to obtain such photographs or chit chat.

Used in a sentence:

“The DeLorean owner hadn’t even finished shutting the car off at the gas station and already the DeLaparazzi was all over him.”

Bonus points for whoever uses it in conversation this week. :)

[DMC5180]

Excellent Jonathan! You should submit that for entry into the next revision Of the Daniel Webster Dictionary. Heck, Twerk managed to get in, so why not give it a shot.

[Rich_NYS]

DeLaparrazi (noun)

[dee-lah-puh-raht-see]


I have a hard time pronouncing it smoothly...how 'bout DeLorparazzi?

I had the DeLorparazzi run out into an intersection last week i na busy tourist town...lol!

[DMC5180]

I have a hard time pronouncing it smoothly...how 'bout DeLorparazzi?

I had the DeLorparazzi run out into an intersection last week i na busy tourist town...lol!


Thats' even more of tongue twister. Della-Parazzi is easier for me.

[Rich_NYS]

Arrgghhh......I meant to write Delo-parazzi.

[Jonathan]

Haha, no worries. You can each have your own dialect for it. Call yours the upstate New York version Rich!

I got thinking of it sounding like "dilapidated" would. The "dilap" part that is. Sort of like 'dilaparazzi'. Or maybe they are all just delinquents to keep it simple? ;)

I'm serious you know. Like DeLorean serious... delirious that is :) groan.......

[SIMid]

Accidentally drove over a concrete block at a local car gathering. :sad30::sad30:

Took some of the epoxy off the rear of the frame. I heard POR15 is the way to go? Anyone used this stuff before?

I'm thinking of touching it up, not to strip and repaint the whole rear of the frame.

I know the colour wont match, but I don't want the rust to blow out on it.

[SIMid]

All good, decided to use KBS Rustcoating as recommended on other threads I have read. Colour looks pretty close too.

[Shep]

Our new word is:

DeLaparrazi (noun)

[dee-lah-puh-raht-see]

1.) a regular Joe who specializes in random conversation and awkward camera shots of people and their DeLorean and often invades their privacy to obtain such photographs or chit chat.

Used in a sentence:

“The DeLorean owner hadn’t even finished shutting the car off at the gas station and already the DeLaparazzi was all over him.”

Bonus points for whoever uses it in conversation this week. :)How about this: the day after I was spotted on Instagram last week, the DeLaparazzi was all over me! Didn't even buckle my seatbelt before some guy came up to talk to me about my car! And all I did was drive it to work...

(Not that it was a bad thing -- I always love it when people ask me about what I'm driving! :biggrin: )

Today, I gave my DeLorean one round of heartbreak, and one round of rejoicing. First for buying another D, second for promising NOT to maker her a clone of Egull! :wink:

[novadmc]

ripped apart the interior, to give the carpets and trim a good cleaning. took all 4 wheels off to clean them, clean/inspect front and rear suspension/brakes, etc. started making my list of things to upgrade/recondition/replace (i'm looking at you front swaybar & mounts). cleaned out and washed the luggage compartment and slightly spruced up the engine compartment.

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don't worry, the wheel in the foreground isn't laying on its face in the 2nd pic. its up on wood blocks against the tire. :)

[ALEXAKOS]

This looks like Dave's DMCMW MOMO version wheel


Edit... Damn tapatalk

Sorry guys this reply should have been a few posts back.

[GS450-Junkie]

Installed new A-1 window motors. Went a little easier than I thought it would which is a nice change of pace for this car I guess. One question though. When I drop the window the long metal piece that feeds into the blue rubber hose on the bottom of the motor gets pushed off even though it is clamped on there. I don't want this to continue to happen when I get the door all put back together. Hose clamp? Anyone else have this problem?

Also....went for a drive and saw this: (Reminded me of this forum). :umm:

[papanoel]

Bottomed out front end of my car pulling into a garage here in NYC a little too quick. This is exactly why I won't lower it.

No damage thankfully other then pushing the radiator brackets back half an inch. I'll address that eventually

[sdg3205]

foot well lighting!!!

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[GS450-Junkie]

Got my center console recovered in black. It's been out of my car for years....can't remember how I took it out.:hysterical: Ahhh...yet another adventure.

[alexwolf1216]

foot well lighting!!!

30663306643066230661

Love it!!!! Care to post some instructions?