What have you done to your DeLorean today?

[cis6409]

Rolled out my completed, refinished and reassembled chassis out of the garage today. Been over a year since I removed it from the body. This is for the Mongoose DeLorean, which is why the suspension is not stock, if you noticed. I had the frame painted satin black over the factory epoxy, which was first sandblasted, repaired, modified, and cleaned. Enjoy.

Mark707687076770769


Absolutely gorgeous well done love it!

Shane

[dmcman73]

Rolled out my completed, refinished and reassembled chassis out of the garage today. Been over a year since I removed it from the body. This is for the Mongoose DeLorean, which is why the suspension is not stock, if you noticed. I had the frame painted satin black over the factory epoxy, which was first sandblasted, repaired, modified, and cleaned. Enjoy.

Mark707687076770769

Great job on that frame!

Just one FYI: I have the same aluminum clutch reservoir that I installed on my car, but because the screw on cap is almost the same size as the hole in the body, it makes it almost impossible to unscrew it because there is no clearance to get your fingers between the opening of the hole in the body and the larger cap. I've since then re-installed my original plastic one.

[JBaker4981]

My early 81 now flaps... I previously had a 82' hood and ended up trading with a local owner plus 500-bones.

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A couple of months prior to this hood swap, I restored the hood latch in order to allow the release to 'pop' the hood up. Never did with the old hood but as soon as we put the gas flap hood on my car and adjusted the positioning, that functionality just miraculously works. Neat.

I guess I can now say that my hood flaps and pops

[Nioreh]

Drove to a friend about 80km away and the alternator gave up almost immediately. I didn't really have time to deal with it and go back and catch a train, so I just kept going. I managed to get there with the lights and fans turned off. I actually had a new alternator at home, since the old one was always kind of weak, so I had ordered it and planned to swap it. The day after, I borrowed my friends car and went home to get the new alternator, and swapped it on his lawn. It went OK. New one was not 1:1 so the fitment was a bit off, and the adjusting bracket didn't fit at all. I had to modify it a bit and drill another hole, but I ended up getting it in there with OK alignment. Just came home after the drive back to Stockholm. Wow, this new alternator is great! Voltage is rock solid, even at idle when the cooling fans kick on.

[Helirich]

My early 81 now flaps... I previously had a 82' hood and ended up trading with a local owner plus 500-bones.

70773707747077570776

A couple of months prior to this hood swap, I restored the hood latch in order to allow the release to 'pop' the hood up. Never did with the old hood but as soon as we put the gas flap hood on my car and adjusted the positioning, that functionality just miraculously works. Neat.

I guess I can now say that my hood flaps and pops

I have mixed views on the gas flap. I like the looks of no flap, but it sure would be nice to not open the hood when getting gas. I have a bunch of tools and stuff in there. I keep a black towel to cover the stuff from prying eyes. How does the flap work? (Release)


Drove to a friend about 80km away and the alternator gave up almost immediately. I didn't really have time to deal with it and go back and catch a train, so I just kept going. I managed to get there with the lights and fans turned off. I actually had a new alternator at home, since the old one was always kind of weak, so I had ordered it and planned to swap it. The day after, I borrowed my friends car and went home to get the new alternator, and swapped it on his lawn. It went OK. New one was not 1:1 so the fitment was a bit off, and the adjusting bracket didn't fit at all. I had to modify it a bit and drill another hole, but I ended up getting it in there with OK alignment. Just came home after the drive back to Stockholm. Wow, this new alternator is great! Voltage is rock solid, even at idle when the cooling fans kick on.

I keep another alternator in a plastic bag doused with oil behind the seat.

[Rich]

I have mixed views on the gas flap. I like the looks of no flap, but it sure would be nice to not open the hood when getting gas. I have a bunch of tools and stuff in there. I keep a black towel to cover the stuff from prying eyes. How does the flap work? (Release)

There is no latch for the gas flap. Flip it up, fuel the car, flip it down, go.

The cars fitted with those hoods came with the factory locking gas cap which was no longer provided when the later two hood designs were adopted.

[JBaker4981]

There is no latch for the gas flap. Flip it up, fuel the car, flip it down, go.

The cars fitted with those hoods came with the factory locking gas cap which was no longer provided when the later two hood designs were adopted.

So what you are saying publicly is that you can piss in the tank of a DeLorean with an early 81 hood and non-locking fuel cap. Thanks for stating my Kryptonite :P

[CyberBill]

Been working to get everything in the doors up and running - power windows, power mirrors, door poppers, lights, and locks. But, of course, everything is always a struggle with this car!

Found that a previous owner had replaced the window motors and pinched some wires behind them when installing it. This explains why all interior lights never functioned! Then found that the wires in the harness right at the door hinge were all cracked, two of which were intermittent and causing things to not work. Ended up pulling the door harness from both sides and remaking them. I'm switching to deutsch connectors in the roof box and doors. I had never opened up the roof box before, and it's got some flaking rust, but not terrible, and it doesn't appear to be lifting.

In order to pull the harness out of the door, I had to grind off the rivets that hold the little rubber hose thing that protects the wires in the hinge. Of course there isn't room in there now to put in a new rivet without taking the doors off, so I'm putting in M3 rivnuts, and of COURSE the screw snapped while setting it, so I've got a replacement on the way and will probably have to grind it out and try again.

I've got some wiring left to do in the roof box to replace the connectors, then replace the connectors on the wires in each 'B' pillar, then I can finally get back to what I was supposed to be doing three days ago!!

[JBaker4981]

Been working to get everything in the doors up and running - power windows, power mirrors, door poppers, lights, and locks. But, of course, everything is always a struggle with this car!

Found that a previous owner had replaced the window motors and pinched some wires behind them when installing it. This explains why all interior lights never functioned! Then found that the wires in the harness right at the door hinge were all cracked, two of which were intermittent and causing things to not work. Ended up pulling the door harness from both sides and remaking them. I'm switching to deutsch connectors in the roof box and doors. I had never opened up the roof box before, and it's got some flaking rust, but not terrible, and it doesn't appear to be lifting.

In order to pull the harness out of the door, I had to grind off the rivets that hold the little rubber hose thing that protects the wires in the hinge. Of course there isn't room in there now to put in a new rivet without taking the doors off, so I'm putting in M3 rivnuts, and of COURSE the screw snapped while setting it, so I've got a replacement on the way and will probably have to grind it out and try again.

I've got some wiring left to do in the roof box to replace the connectors, then replace the connectors on the wires in each 'B' pillar, then I can finally get back to what I was supposed to be doing three days ago!!

While I do not agree with anything EV related until Battery Degradation is 99.1% solved, I have been following your project since you slid that DPI frame under your ICE car. Totally digging the engineering in your build along with your cable management which simply makes the Data Center Architect in me very, very happy :)

[JBaker4981]

How does the flap work? (Release)

There is nothing to it - just flip it up. It has a pair of curved, metal 'arms' under the flap which provides the flap with its springy-ness

[Carbuilder]

After a drive, especially in warm weather, I like to open the engine cover to help the engine cool off. Even though my light is an LED and probably wouldn't drain the battery much if left on for a day, I just don't like it left on.

I found a small toggle switch and wired it to the light. It is mounted in the light housing so doesn't show very much. Very easy to flip on or off.

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Rick

[Timeless]

After a drive, especially in warm weather, I like to open the engine cover to help the engine cool off. Even though my light is an LED and probably wouldn't drain the battery much if left on for a day, I just don't like it left on.

I found a small toggle switch and wired it to the light. It is mounted in the light housing so doesn't show very much. Very easy to flip on or off.

Rick
FWIW, I have left my doors open for 10 hours with the all the lights active with no battery drain issue. (LED bulbs)

[AirmanPika]

Survived transport cross country. Looks rather nice after it's first real cleaning in 5 years.

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[Jonathan]

I changed the oil on the car and was doing some inspection afterwards and noticed my passenger side inner rear axle boot is torn. Again. I replaced this one with new about two years ago to the day. Unlike the time before, it does not look like there is a mess of grease all sprayed around from when the boot tore and the axle was spinning. It looks clean under there still like it just happened. Like when I raised the car and the rear wheels were hanging down to their extents before sliding my ramps under them and lowering it down.

Is there any chance this can happen? Like where the boots are clamped on too tight or don't provide enough flexibility or slack so that when the wheels are raised and they are hanging, if the boot isn't flexing, it tears instead? Is that a thing? Or just bad luck and coincidental timing?

It appears to have split right near the edge of the large diameter clamp. For sure that metal edge could have cut into the boot from how it looks.

I have another rubber boot and the grease and clamps and whatnot already in stock. It's a ton of work and pain in the butt, so if I'm doing something wrong with replacing these, thought I better ask and get it right before it happens again.

[82DMC12]

I changed the oil on the car and was doing some inspection afterwards and noticed my passenger side inner rear axle boot is torn. Again. I replaced this one with new about two years ago to the day. Unlike the time before, it does not look like there is a mess of grease all sprayed around from when the boot tore and the axle was spinning. It looks clean under there still like it just happened. Like when I raised the car and the rear wheels were hanging down to their extents before sliding my ramps under them and lowering it down.

Is there any chance this can happen? Like where the boots are clamped on too tight or don't provide enough flexibility or slack so that when the wheels are raised and they are hanging, if the boot isn't flexing, it tears instead? Is that a thing? Or just bad luck and coincidental timing?

It appears to have split right near the edge of the large diameter clamp. For sure that metal edge could have cut into the boot from how it looks.

I have another rubber boot and the grease and clamps and whatnot already in stock. It's a ton of work and pain in the butt, so if I'm doing something wrong with replacing these, thought I better ask and get it right before it happens again.

Probably just crap parts. I got a full set from Grady like 20 years ago and they still look new. Maybe 25K on them since installing.

[Jonathan]

Probably just crap parts. I got a full set from Grady like 20 years ago and they still look new. Maybe 25K on them since installing.

Blurg! lol You're probably right. Frig does this whole US to Canada exchange rate and customs charges ever put a damper on the hobby. Going with cheaper parts because they're cheaper instead of just getting the good ones in the first place.

Thanks for the feedback!!

[82DMC12]

Speaking of crap parts, two weeks ago I tried to start my car after cars and coffee (2 hours since running in 70F ambient weather) and the starter was cranking, tach moving, but no fire. Finally on the third try the engine stumbled to life and after a few seconds evened out and ran normally. When I got home I put my fuel pressure gauge on and found my rest pressure dropped to 1.2 bar immediately on shut down and dropped below 1 bar within 5 minutes.

I found the o-ring on the tip of the primary pressure regulator had cracked, and it was also loose like it had swollen. The larger o-ring was loose as well. I haven't touched the PPR since I installed those o-rings about three years ago, and the o-rings came from a vendor I have since stopped using because it seems like every order I ever made included some junk parts that either flat out didn't work or needed modification to work. I ordered better o-rings from Grady, installed them, and re-tested. Now my rest pressure is normal again.

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[JBaker4981]

I changed the oil on the car and was doing some inspection afterwards and noticed my passenger side inner rear axle boot is torn. Again.

In the same boat... I have 3 torn right now and I replaced all of them in June 2021.

I am planning on getting 4 of these off-road boots - these should be the correct size and should last a heck of a lot longer. I have an A/T so there is naturally more of an angle on the boots/CV Joint when compared to a M/T. To my understanding, these off-road VW boots are what the LS guys are using

https://www2.cip1.com/c13-86-9300k/

[Timeless]

In the same boat... I have 3 torn right now and I replaced all of them in June 2021.

I am planning on getting 4 of these off-road boots - these should be the correct size and should last a heck of a lot longer. I have an A/T so there is naturally more of an angle on the boots/CV Joint when compared to a M/T. To my understanding, these off-road VW boots are what the LS guys are using

https://www2.cip1.com/c13-86-9300k/
Let us know how they work out - would be nice to have a robust option. Knock on wood my OE boots are still in perfect shape - no leaks.

[FABombjoy]

They work well, rebuilt mine and used the same parts.

[JBaker4981]

Let us know how they work out - would be nice to have a robust option. Knock on wood my OE boots are still in perfect shape - no leaks.

For sure! Looking forward to seeing how they wear - will need to do that job by October if I want to drive the DMC to a weekend gathering during that month

[AugustneverEnds]

In the same boat... I have 3 torn right now and I replaced all of them in June 2021.

I am planning on getting 4 of these off-road boots - these should be the correct size and should last a heck of a lot longer. I have an A/T so there is naturally more of an angle on the boots/CV Joint when compared to a M/T. To my understanding, these off-road VW boots are what the LS guys are using

https://www2.cip1.com/c13-86-9300k/

Nice find and thank you for sharing. I have an automatic too and seem to develop torn boots regularly. Probably will give these a try.

[JBaker4981]

Nice find and thank you for sharing. I have an automatic too and seem to develop torn boots regularly. Probably will give these a try.

I cannot take the credit - Rafael Cruz (dont remember username) and Jimmy Houston (powerline84) pointed me to them :)

[Jonathan]

Those robust axle boots are pricey, no? It was coming up $45 or so for what looked like just one. Is that right? x4 to get four?

I haven't gotten to my torn axle boot yet. Been puttering around with other odds and ends on the car. Actually got the SS replacement fuel filler neck installed today. It looks good and seems to have gone in as intended. I had to file down the inner lip a little bit as it was too narrow across the opening to get the locking tabs through the opening on the underside of the gas cap. Other than that it was fine. My original is pretty grodie.

[AugustneverEnds]

Those robust axle boots are pricey, no? It was coming up $45 or so for what looked like just one. Is that right? x4 to get four?

I haven't gotten to my torn axle boot yet. Been puttering around with other odds and ends on the car. Actually got the SS replacement fuel filler neck installed today. It looks good and seems to have gone in as intended. I had to file down the inner lip a little bit as it was too narrow across the opening to get the locking tabs through the opening on the underside of the gas cap. Other than that it was fine. My original is pretty grodie.

From my reading it seems like it is $45 for a kit that comprises one boot and one flange so it's on the pricey side. On the other hand, if these do last more than three or four years, I think it might be worth it to have to do this messy job as infrequently as possible.

Yesterday I treated my seats with Leatherique. Really brings out the fine aroma in that Scottish leather and they do feel more supple.
Checked my tire pressures with a more accurate gauge than my cheap one. Seven-year-old Coopers still hold their pressures evenly, so I'm very happy with them. Especially since I found the receipt for them and it was only $370 but that was 2017.

[JBaker4981]

On the other hand, if these do last more than three or four years, I think it might be worth it to have to do this messy job as infrequently as possible.

Exactly my reasoning for giving it a 'go'. If they last 20-30k miles, Great! If they last 4k miles, cool.... Now we know.

[Timeless]

Yesterday I treated my seats with Leatherique. Really brings out the fine aroma in that Scottish leather and they do feel more supple.
Leatherique is fantastic stuff! I use it on all my vintage vehicles and it worked wonders on my original D leather. The correct process with their cleaner definitely added some life/protection to the seats.

[Victor]

I totally second that!
And I think it is a canadian product, from Niagara On The Lake, if I am not mistaken?

This what I used when redoing my tan interior. And the owner wanted to give me the dye free of charge because he felt it was not the exact color. I reassured him and paid in full to promote this product. I sent him pictures of my Delorean interior and thank him!

I also use the leather rejuvenator for my L-Seats

[JBaker4981]

Here is something that I am testing the durability of... VW Off-Road CV Boots on the drive axles of the DMC.

According to a buddy of mine a couple of years ago, some of the LS-Swap guys opted for these boots on their cars.

The Automatic Gearbox (Renault 4141) is identically the same as the manual sans different mounting brackets and etc. The A/T Output Hub sits slightly further forward than the Manual Transmission (Renault UN1) which causes a greater angle on both end of each drive shaft (transmission side/wheel Hub side). It is in my opinion that this increased angle causes additional stress on the DeLorean Specific CV Boots causing tears in the boots more frequently that manual transmission equipped DeLoreans.

The car went on Jack Stands this past Monday and I have been working on it here and there (2-3 hours when I did go to th garage). As of now, she is on the ground and ready for a road trip this upcoming week.

Only happy miles will tell how these wear or, hopefully not, wear out.

If you want to check out pictures from the process, it's on my reddit post (https://www.reddit.com/r/delorean/comments/1fsgb0t/vw_offroad_cv_boots/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=web3x&utm_name=web3xcss&utm_term=1&utm_content=share_button)

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[jackb]

Replaced my motor mounts.
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[Bitsyncmaster]

Replaced my motor mounts.
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I probably should replace mine. I still have that vibration I can't find accelerating in third and four gear. Was it hard to do?

[glockworks21]

I probably should replace mine. I still have that vibration I can't find accelerating in third and four gear. Was it hard to do?



do you have your oe catalytic converter installed?

[jackb]

I probably should replace mine. I still have that vibration I can't find accelerating in third and four gear. Was it hard to do?

Super easy.

Jack up the car, remove the rear wheels, remove the nuts on the rod going through the mount, jack up the motor (may require loosening muffler mounts), remove the old mounts (2 bolts), install the new mounts, replace the rods, lower the motor, install the nuts, re-secure the muffler.

[Bitsyncmaster]

do you have your oe catalytic converter installed?

Hollow CAT.

[Mark D]

I got the car out of storage the other day for "spring" just in time to put it away for fall. I need to put enough miles on to at least burn through the old fuel before the snow flies again.


https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=70946&d=1728048296


https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=70947&d=1728048308


https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=70949&d=1728048392


This one also needs some love before getting tucked away again. Too many cars to work on these days and not enough time for all of them.

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=70948&d=1728048327

[AirmanPika]

Started up nicely after sitting for a month (yes I opened the garage door)

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[glockworks21]

spent 2 hours, full can off goof off, and about 10 or so rags removing caked on tire shine over the years. Need to find something that does not leave a oil based coating.

[82DMC12]

spent 2 hours, full can off goof off, and about 10 or so rags removing caked on tire shine over the years. Need to find something that does not leave a oil based coating.CarPro Perl. Trust me.

Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

[mark w]

spent 2 hours, full can off goof off, and about 10 or so rags removing caked on tire shine over the years. Need to find something that does not leave a oil based coating.


Griots Garage Rubber cleaner. Goof off is also oil based

[Jonathan]

What are the options nowadays for a replacement console clock?

I bought new innards in 2014 from a UK forum member. Reused the green plastic lens and housing. That replacement hasn't been keeping time very well lately so figure I'm due for something else.

[Rich]

Get in touch with user "Yoda". He's been supplying a repro clock for several years. It's an exact fit with the same look, an internal backup battery (keeps time in case of disconnected power), excellent timekeeping accuracy and easy DIY instructions. No lens. See the thread below for the latest info.

He recently confirms the clock is still available. He replies promptly to PMs sent from this forum.

Good guy. Tell him I referred you!

https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?20093

(Post #8 in that thread points to a larger string that in part features the "Yoda" clock)



What are the options nowadays for a replacement console clock?

I bought new innards in 2014 from a UK forum member. Reused the green plastic lens and housing. That replacement hasn't been keeping time very well lately so figure I'm due for something else.

[82DMC12]

I took my D to an 80's themed charity event in Lawson, MO. On the way home, had to drive an hour in rain. I've been meaning to do an undercarriage wipe down before winter anyway so this weekend was a good time to get it done. I pulled out into the driveway and took each wheel off one at a time. Sprayed the wheel wells and whatever chassis I could see with a spray bottle of half distilled water and half 3D Orange Degreaser. I cleaned the wheels with P&S Brake Buster and a brush, then used a different brush to scrub the wheel wells and agitate anything I could get it on. Rinsed with the garden hose and then wiped off with a 300GSM microfiber.

I figure if I can do this once a year the car will looks minty fresh forever.

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[Timeless]

Andy, I have found that scrubbing bubbles works wonders for maintenance cleaning wheels wells, suspension, frame sections, etc... Soak and wipe and/or rinse.

[Jonathan]

Get in touch with user "Yoda". He's been supplying a repro clock for several years. It's an exact fit with the same look, an internal backup battery (keeps time in case of disconnected power), excellent timekeeping accuracy and easy DIY instructions. No lens. See the thread below for the latest info.

He recently confirms the clock is still available. He replies promptly to PMs sent from this forum.

Good guy. Tell him I referred you!

https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?20093

(Post #8 in that thread points to a larger string that in part features the "Yoda" clock)

Thanks for the link and referral. Good to know there are options that everyone is happy with.

I found an old picture I took of the replacement clock I have while it was still on the workbench. Looks like it has some kind of coin cell battery on it. Makes sense considering it is meant to keep time even when the car is off or car battery gets disconnected. I'll need to get into the console and have a look at replacing that battery first to see if that corrects things. Winter project likely. To be continued...

[82DMC12]

Andy, I have found that scrubbing bubbles works wonders for maintenance cleaning wheels wells, suspension, frame sections, etc... Soak and wipe and/or rinse.

Haha but then won't your car smell like a bathroom for awhile?

[Timeless]

Haha but then won't your car smell like a bathroom for awhile?
Nope. No smell once wiped/rinsed clean. Plus its on the exterior.

[Michael]

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I like your style!

[Timeless]

License plate lamp replacement today. My originals had broken plastic copper holder pins. Tried a Repro set and 1 plastic holder pin broke as well after a short time. Now using sealed LED pieces with snap on bezel. A bit more flush and brighter. We'll see how they hold up.
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[Helirich]

Nice 150 mile drive yesterday. It was on business, but the drive was pure pleasure. Haven't been driving it much lately. The car ran great.

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[jackb]

Repaired my seat back panel. Like many, the particle board cracked so it flexes/bows and falls off the seat.
Rather than buy a metal replacement and move the covering, I repaired it with popsicle sticks! And plenty of wood glue.it was significantly cracked where you see the two on each side, and there was a minor crack by the middle bracket on each side. I used another popsicle stick and wood glue on the inside if that part. The piece of paper I laid down between the cover and the wood/glue so its not stuck forever if I do ever replace it,

[Helirich]

I drove mine in the snow for the first time. Seems to get good traction. I didn?t go very far.

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Stainless stays cold for awhile.

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[82DMC12]

I've got plenty happening right now, but honestly one of the last jobs left to do on my car. The only two parts of my car that I have never touched is the HVAC box and the roof box. HVAC box is working great now that I re-sealed the foam on the back side of it. I had nothing better to do so I decided it was time to clean up and repaint my roof box as well as inspect it for any troubling damage. The visible part near the hinges has some peeling paint and surface rust. I removed the louvers and T-panel and found the top of the box is quite nice aside from some peeling paint on the front half of it, along with more surface rust but nothing eaten through. I opened the plate where the plugs are and everything is super clean inside. I ran my shitty 15 year old Harbor Freight endoscope into the box and saw zero rust, however I have a much better new articulating scope on the way so I'll check it again. I plan to spray Waxoyl inside the box and then do a repaint of the exterior with POR15. To do the sides of the roof box I will remove the torsion bars for better access and replace all the hinge hardware.

In preparation for this work I built the classic wood torsion bar adjustment jig, as depicted in the Winter '86 DeLorean World mag.

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[DMC5180]

Andy,

Seems like that DW tech article or at least the Plans for the support tool should be placed in the ?Resources? archive, if it doesn?t already exist.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[82DMC12]

Andy,

Seems like that DW tech article or at least the Plans for the support tool should be placed in the ?Resources? archive, if it doesn?t already exist.


Sent from my iPhone using TapatalkIf it's not already in there, when I get home from a work trip this week I will scan it in.

Last year I decided it was a shame I didn't have a full set of DeLorean World magazines so I bought a few lots from other owners and was able to piece together every issue from volume one issue one to somewhere around 2013.

Many of those early magazines had very good and valuable technical resources in them. Some of them I have seen reproduced and shared, others seem to have been lost to time and yet are still useful.

Sent from my Pixel 6a using Tapatalk

[Patrick C]

https://images.clickpix.org/2jOq85.png
https://images.clickpix.org/2jOIvF.png
https://images.clickpix.org/2jOoAp.png
https://images.clickpix.org/2jOiFb.png

[JBaker4981]

While Andy is futzing with his roofbox, what have I done to the DeLorean today? I glanced in its direction and it's still in the garage. Hard days work. :rock_on:

[Mark D]

*Tech Article*

Pretty cool to see that tech procedure for adjusting the torsion bars. I've seen it done that way with the wooden jig by the guys at DMCMW when they re-secured my roof box to the fiberglass underbody and it worked very well. Never had a reason to build a jig myself, but it's nice to know the plans are available if I needed to.

[JETS 81 DMC]

Interesting part within the article is the heat shield to reduce fuel pump temps.

I had not seen that before. :cheers:

[Timeless]

Interesting part within the article is the heat shield to reduce fuel pump temps.

I had not seen that before. :cheers:
FYI with the Delphi fuel pump I don't have any fuel pump noise even in uber hot S. Florida summer temps and traffic. Car is EFI. Would I consider a heat shield? For sure.

[82DMC12]

It used to be that many of the clubs had a "community jig" and they would do torsion bar adjustments at tech sessions. I've seen it used at a Minnesota MNDMC meet in the past, and I believe my Dad and I even made a partial version of it over 20 years ago to do a quick adjustment to one of my bars way back in the day but I forgot all about it (when I showed my dad this picture he reminded me of it). It's not strictly necessary, I've assisted with adjustments before without it but the nice thing about this jig it allows the second person (breaker bar holder) to stand on the other side of the car so he's not in the way of the other person struggling with the spline plate.

[WHO1DMC]

It used to be that many of the clubs had a "community jig" and they would do torsion bar adjustments at tech sessions. I've seen it used at a Minnesota MNDMC meet in the past, and I believe my Dad and I even made a partial version of it over 20 years ago to do a quick adjustment to one of my bars way back in the day but I forgot all about it (when I showed my dad this picture he reminded me of it). It's not strictly necessary, I've assisted with adjustments before without it but the nice thing about this jig it allows the second person (breaker bar holder) to stand on the other side of the car so he's not in the way of the other person struggling with the spline plate.

Dennis will bring his jig to the Orchard if we need it.
He helped detorque mine a few years ago.






Dave B.

[82DMC12]

Dennis will bring his jig to the Orchard if we need it.
He helped detorque mine a few years ago.






Dave B.

That's great, I went to the Orchard every year until I moved to Kansas City about 12 years ago. Maybe I should show up at the next Apple Orchard event this fall!

[DMC5180]

That's great, I went to the Orchard every year until I moved to Kansas City about 12 years ago. Maybe I should show up at the next Apple Orchard event this fall!

We?d love to see you again! That way we can drool at your beautiful restoration [emoji6]


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[82DMC12]

Only if we can get Jim Reeve to show up ..... !!

[Patrick C]

Installed a custom plaque above my newly installed NOS ASI radio (which runs through the input of a modern headunit behind the driver seat, so I get the best of old and new technology).

https://images.clickpix.org/2H3tQE.jpeg

https://images.clickpix.org/2H36xt.jpeg

[ssdelorean]

Installed a custom plaque above my newly installed NOS ASI radio (which runs through the input of a modern headunit behind the driver seat, so I get the best of old and new technology).

https://images.clickpix.org/2H3tQE.jpeg

https://images.clickpix.org/2H36xt.jpeg

You also being Sinatra fan, I see what you did there :-)

[Timeless]

I want one of the plaques! :thumbup2:

[blueguse]

Installed a custom plaque above my newly installed NOS ASI radio (which runs through the input of a modern headunit behind the driver seat, so I get the best of old and new technology).

https://images.clickpix.org/2H3tQE.jpeg

https://images.clickpix.org/2H36xt.jpeg

Got rid of your touch screen?

[blueguse]

The below is a work in progress but successfully tackled the technical hurdles of having a carplay system with a custom UI that can control GPIO pins of a Raspberry Pi.
71255


https://youtu.be/9dK9ymtWkgk

https://youtu.be/9dK9ymtWkgk

[Patrick C]

Got rid of your touch screen?

I did! It was starting to get a little bit too outdated, apps weren’t supported anymore, etc. I had been wanting to go for a retro look and decided the ASI running through the hidden Sony headunit behind the seat checked all of my boxes. Can still use hands free calling, CD, Bluetooth, USB C, etc.

[meganjeo0]

Installed a custom plaque above my newly installed NOS ASI radio (which runs through the input of a modern headunit behind the driver seat, so I get the best of old and new technology).

https://images.clickpix.org/2H3tQE.jpeg

https://images.clickpix.org/2H36xt.jpegYou're also a fan it's obvious [emoji41].

[82DMC12]

I fixed my B pillar trim on the rear driver door which had been slit by a Dreaded PO at least 25 years ago while attempting to replace the fir tree clips. Since the part is NLA, it never really bothered me until I was working on the door and ordered a new repro B pillar trim. Well that didn't work at all, it's fiberglass and extremely stiff. It's so stiff that the fir trees won't go completely into the door so it left a gap, and it was pulling outward on my upper door card so badly that it was making a gap on the rear edge of the door. I'll be returning it for sure. So I decided to do what I should have done the first time, and that's to try to repair what I already had.

I found there's enough material where I would totally remove it and reposition it 1/2" further rearward and then re-glue it so the damage is no longer visible.

71304










Damaged upper door B pillar trim, you can see foam where the last person cut the vinyl away to get to the clips. Super stupid.











71305






Removed the vinyl with a heatgun and very careful use of a plastic pry tool. Replaced the three fir tree clips and secured the foam with Weldwood contact cement. Cleaned the vinyl really well with Griot's Leather Care.











https://youtube.com/shorts/TKYU_Z3Vh9U?feature=share

End result, it turned out perfect!

[seventy4burban]

Finally put this in.....not that I need it anytime soon hahahttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250302/db9a100462155eda92fcfe4c2e5ba090.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250302/557131c8d54827a40f828c1ec18f2fd1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250302/6c90cf5f20229ac263735b16809ecce5.jpg

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[Timeless]

USB socket to replace lighter. This is the thinnest I could find - it fits well and plugs into the original factory wiring.
71306

[seventy4burban]

USB socket to replace lighter. This is the thinnest I could find - it fits well and plugs into the original factory wiring.
71306Source?

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[Timeless]

Source?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DGTCSYLJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

[seventy4burban]

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0DGTCSYLJ?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1Thank you !

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[seventy4burban]

Ordered DPI engine harness. This is a must replace for my original harness. I hope to replace all the harnesses besides the main.

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[ssdelorean]

Finally awakened my D from hibernation last Sunday, filled up tank and have been driving to work all this week. Just over 250 miles so far.
It desperately needs a bath. That is next on the list.

[deloreandmcxii]

Hey Shannon! I got mine out the same day and put the new driver's side escutcheon plate in. Drove to work once too on Monday!

Great minds think alike! Hope all is well!

[Mark D]

Hey Shannon! I got mine out the same day and put the new driver's side escutcheon plate in. Drove to work once too on Monday!

Great minds think alike! Hope all is well!

I'm jealous of you guys being able to get them out of storage already. The roads up here in WI is still covered in 1/4" of rock salt so it'll be a while before the rain has a chance to wash it away.

My goal this year is to actually get the car out in spring and put some miles on. Last year it didn't move out of the garage until October.

[Nioreh]

I'm jealous of you guys being able to get them out of storage already. The roads up here in WI is still covered in 1/4" of rock salt so it'll be a while before the rain has a chance to wash it away.

My goal this year is to actually get the car out in spring and put some miles on. Last year it didn't move out of the garage until October.

Me too. Last week almost felt like spring was here, and I did catch some nice cars out for their first outing on Sunday. But this week we got some colder weather again and even a little bit of snow.

I aim to revive my A/C this year. Even in my mild climate these cars can get really uncomfortable on sunny days.

[Timeless]

Removed the cowl to clean 43 years of dirt under there and install some stainless mesh for the HVAC air intake. Also replaced the fender edge trim that was also 43 years old and rock hard. This product works perfect and matches OE - at least what was on my car.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NVHTQR3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

[JBaker4981]

Also replaced the fender edge trim that was also 43 years old and rock hard. This product works perfect and matches OE - at least what was on my car.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NVHTQR3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

Love this, thank you! Both of my fronts are pretty skanky

[Timeless]

Love this, thank you! Both of my fronts are pretty skanky
You're welcome! One of the little things that annoy but can be handled quickly. I love it.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Spent the day doing some clean up of my web site. Added some of the items I have not bought to production.

https://dm-eng.weebly.com/

[JBaker4981]

I've got the car on my lift now.

Current List - Hope to be done in two weeks

Degrease Engine/Transaxle (In-Progress)
Restore Windshield Washer Pump System (In-Progress)
Fix a Kneepad Stud
Coolant Flush - Vac Refill
New Otterstat/Pipe
Oil Filler O-Ring
Stainless Steel Grill
New Silicone Vac Hoses
WP Bleeder Valve
Tire Rotation
Clean Wheels
Clean Grounds and Bulk Head Connections (Front/at Washer Bottle)

[seventy4burban]

Finally got some parts in.....did some more cleaning, put the stainless gear shift lever on, new starter, stated in installing the new engine harness.

Josh you got me, now that I have held your engine harness in my hand and took in all its glory there is no question about getting all the others.

As a former avionic electrician in the USMC, and for Lockheed Martin these harnesses are immaculate!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250322/31dd9c9e0bcf2c3987bf9057a8d13b25.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250322/0d550e3bfb64894c40506b4538cb41d6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250322/2f1a3a5a9a934602653ba0458215195f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250322/737302ba0bd6699d558293d76274a0d0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250322/801475ecca76a7763493f029421d332c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250322/37454f360aab65223740dda84c50a34f.jpg

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250322/cbee57dca364e431af84670c885961db.jpg

[Delorean Industries]

Finally got some parts in.....did some more cleaning, put the stainless gear shift lever on, new starter, stated in installing the new engine harness.

Josh you got me, now that I have held your engine harness in my hand and took in all its glory there is no question about getting all the others.

As a former avionic electrician in the USMC, and for Lockheed Martin these harnesses are immaculate!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250322/31dd9c9e0bcf2c3987bf9057a8d13b25.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250322/0d550e3bfb64894c40506b4538cb41d6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250322/2f1a3a5a9a934602653ba0458215195f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250322/737302ba0bd6699d558293d76274a0d0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250322/801475ecca76a7763493f029421d332c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250322/37454f360aab65223740dda84c50a34f.jpg

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https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250322/cbee57dca364e431af84670c885961db.jpg

Passing on to our staff the compliments. They take great pride in doing this. The cross-training and synergy they have developed as a team make me proud of the culture here.

[seventy4burban]

Passing on to our staff the compliments. They take great pride in doing this. The cross-training and synergy they have developed as a team make me proud of the culture here.

Yeah Wiring is probably my biggest pet peeve. My OG harness was bad. I did a bunch of fixes to it years ago but it has lived its live and had to go. My frequency valve wires were bad and the ignition harness is almost as bad. That one is going be next unless the lead time is going to be a while.

[Delorean Industries]

Yeah Wiring is probably my biggest pet peeve. My OG harness was bad. I did a bunch of fixes to it years ago but it has lived its live and had to go. My frequency valve wires were bad and the ignition harness is almost as bad. That one is going be next unless the lead time is going to be a while.

7141871419

We keep all flying leads cut and prepped for termination on all of our harnesses ready to go. This way when an order comes in whom ever is on rotation for same day part sales build outs can usually fill order requirements by the next day at the latest. Smaller harnesss are always same day if received before noon.

From left to right:
Ignition harness you asked about
Lower frame
Harness
Tail light harness
Headlamp harness

[seventy4burban]

7141871419

We keep all flying leads cut and prepped for termination on all of our harnesses ready to go. This way when an order comes in whom ever is on rotation for same day part sales build outs can usually fill order requirements by the next day at the latest. Smaller harnesss are always same day if received before noon.

From left to right:
Ignition harness you asked about
Lower frame
Harness
Tail light harness
Headlamp harnessThat is amazing

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[bytes311]

Obviously you can never have too many DMC logos and badges on the car. When my original glove box latch cover broke, I printed my own.

71441

[DMC-Ron]

Obviously you can never have too many DMC logos and badges on the car. When my original glove box latch cover broke, I printed my own.

71441

That looks sweet. Good work!
Ron

[JBaker4981]

I've got the car on my lift now.

Current List - Hope to be done in two weeks

Degrease Engine/Transaxle (In-Progress)
Fix a Kneepad Stud
Coolant Flush - Vac Refill
New Otterstat/Pipe
New Silicone Vac Hoses
WP Bleeder Valve


Still in the process of finishing my Winter Maintenance... officially have a working windshield washer fluid system and that gorgeous DPI SS Grille.
7146271463

[Timeless]

QuickJack.... I've been thinking about one for years. I assume you like yours.

[dmcman73]

QuickJack.... I've been thinking about one for years. I assume you like yours.

I have a Quickjack and it is awesome. The only thing you need to watch out for is when lifting the car. if there are any irregularities on you floor, the car will want to tip towards the rear as lifting it since there is no weight in the front to counter balance it as opposed to a car with the engine in the front. I just simply turn the jacks facing the opposite way as to what the instruction manuals say and it works perfect.

[JBaker4981]

QuickJack.... I've been thinking about one for years. I assume you like yours.

I've had them setup for a little over a month now and I cannot stop doing things on the DMC or Supra. It's a game changer... jacks and jack stands be damned!

The DeLorean came down this evening, the Supra went up, and the Supra came back down. All in an easy evenings time.

[WNY1983]

I have had mine for 5 years. Great investment. Buy one and you will not regret it. Well built, it's safe and secure.

[Jonathan]

What model Quick Jack did you go with?

[JBaker4981]

What model Quick Jack did you go with?

https://quickjack.com/car-lifts/5000tl/

I chose to forego the extensions as they're not needed for the applications I am using QJ for.

[seventy4burban]

Well parts have been coming in so figured I put some on tonight. Couple points I need a reminder / sanity check .

I can't recall the optimal orientation of the frequency valve....for now it's how it is.

It's a mess right now don't feel like cleaning up lol.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250403/fb3bd55bc98c38495b4607a9c281230f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250403/b397d30817cb136e496721b252f2d3f0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250403/60fe5c9bd2a55cb58443f4a6107181aa.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250403/1e800e301a61dd9adb633a10aa26701d.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250403/2d4529d42094e0d4d8d28c5c7f180781.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250403/f4fd1ab024e5b39246336e0de4e2d9af.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250403/a2e8ae2f89bb52fa145434b407eef625.jpg

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[Mark D]

Well parts have been coming in so figured I put some on tonight. Couple points I need a reminder / sanity check .

I can't recall the optimal orientation of the frequency valve....for now it's how it is.

It's a mess right now don't feel like cleaning up lol.


Looking great! Where did you source the poly trailing arm bushings? I've heard mixed reviews on those not lasting very long, but can't remember off hand where the good vs bad ones came from. I replaced by entire suspension with poly when I refreshed my car, but left those trailing arm bushings rubber.

[WHO1DMC]

Looking great! Where did you source the poly trailing arm bushings? I've heard mixed reviews on those not lasting very long, but can't remember off hand where the good vs bad ones came from. I replaced by entire suspension with poly when I refreshed my car, but left those trailing arm bushings rubber.

More than likely the poly bushings are from Delorean go because their the only ones I've seen sell them.
Myself I would still go with the rubber.




Dave B.

[seventy4burban]

Looking great! Where did you source the poly trailing arm bushings? I've heard mixed reviews on those not lasting very long, but can't remember off hand where the good vs bad ones came from. I replaced by entire suspension with poly when I refreshed my car, but left those trailing arm bushings rubber.Poly bushings got them from DeLorean Industries.

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[82DMC12]

Today I picked up my newly refinished dash from David Hudgins (painterdave72)! I have a black dash that was in pretty good shape except for a single big crack held together by the VIN plate. Because of this, the crack didn't really spread or get worse but it was unsightly and as I get close to "finishing" my car's restoration (is it ever done? The major stuff I suppose yes), I knew this was something I wanted to take care of.

I've seen the work done by Just Dashes and I don't think they do as good as job in appearing factory-OEM as David can do. The dashes look too puffy when they're done with it. David has a process that works and looks just like OEM.

I hope to get the dash reinstalled this weekend in which case I'll post an update!

71467

71468

[JohnZ]

Changed engine and transmission oil, as well as a miscellaneous of things!

These include oil pressure sender, oil light switch, oil filter and reverse light switch on the gearbox! Basically I eliminated a couple of major leak spots! So far it's working... I'll check the garage floor the next weeks! :)https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250405/f5269cc23bb5bc46d554ac57dfa4aee6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250405/09795c5d74fbd77136dcab1c056e00f7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250405/f49af3c62813331c8f529b616c0b9601.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250405/3bc5e794f656ffdbdb54c195467d51f8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250405/07e7ed5e53d1124bc71499da25953376.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250405/d4db3b2808085dc571964eac8dda03f4.jpg

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[seventy4burban]

Well actually made some forward progress today. More importantly visual progress.... This thing is starting to look like it belongs in a carhttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250409/69ff0faabd719eb6c41e08f42432451e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250409/d98761ac9423a42c5653875182b6f82e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250409/e7d849bd41d80db0209fb5def6ddb3bc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250409/f0565e88300e851315cbc7d16fb86c24.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250409/4ec44d73ec6a87e0768abe21cc131842.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250409/2113de1111671ae7373e8b69926f39c1.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250409/4526186cf30652b3a654f7203c2bde93.jpg

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[seventy4burban]

Not much done today besides buying more parts. I did get the upper shock bushings on the rear replaced. I still got to do front. I'm going to be away for the car for a week but once I come back hopefully things move very quickly. I would love to have this frame and engine back in by the end of the month.

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[seventy4burban]

Still waiting on a large load of parts. So I started reworking the front harness. New wire wrap and weather pack connectors on everything. Still debating on the routing. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250413/3b14b5d642c87574a12eb843e6dc9ec8.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250413/cb5811c86dc6128ae46c9348b5b05400.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250413/4fe5dacfa6f83c5df307b2e09b4ad8a6.jpg

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[JBaker4981]

After several weeks of being on the Lift, VIN 628 made her 2025 debut yesterday. Many quality of life improvements done and a thorough winter maintenance... she's back and ready.
Video of yesterday's cruise in - linked to 44:41 where there is a lot of good up close shots of her. And a little bit of my Supra too 🤣

Live the Dream!


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MmEVE15Mdgw&t=2681s

[JETS 81 DMC]

Jesse,

Great video. Thanks for sharing and so many really nice cars besides yours. 8)

Enjoyed this for being my first car show this year. :cheers:

[Carbuilder]

I had a sort of home-brew system on my car that the previous owner had made. The headers were decent and the system used a Magnaflow muffler. From the pipe bends it looks like a muffler-shop job; not a bad one though. All the joints were nicely welded. I mean all of them. As in, the whole system was one piece. Good for no leaks, bad for removing it. I cut it in 2 places to remove.

The installation of the Delorean Industries Stage 2 went well with one exception. It took me about 4 hours to get the right side header on. I could not slide it forward enough to line up with the exhaust studs on the head as it was hitting the frame. I removed some studs to give more clearance and still could not fit it on. I emailed them and Josh suggested prying the engine up a bit. My mounts were good (not sagged at all) but that little bit of extra room did the trick. Other than that, a nice system with probably the best welds I've seen on anything. Really beautifully made.

The sound is great, as others have said. My previous system was a touch louder (which I didn't like).

The old system:

71515

71516

The new system, turning a nice gold color. I chose the one with cats to maybe cut down on the exhaust smell.

71517

Rick

[Quinn]

I really like that exhaust system. I might actually get one, if the classic car smog exemption bill (Leno's Law) passes in California.


I had a sort of home-brew system on my car that the previous owner had made. The headers were decent and the system used a Magnaflow muffler. From the pipe bends it looks like a muffler-shop job; not a bad one though. All the joints were nicely welded. I mean all of them. As in, the whole system was one piece. Good for no leaks, bad for removing it. I cut it in 2 places to remove.

The installation of the Delorean Industries Stage 2 went well with one exception. It took me about 4 hours to get the right side header on. I could not slide it forward enough to line up with the exhaust studs on the head as it was hitting the frame. I removed some studs to give more clearance and still could not fit it on. I emailed them and Josh suggested prying the engine up a bit. My mounts were good (not sagged at all) but that little bit of extra room did the trick. Other than that, a nice system with probably the best welds I've seen on anything. Really beautifully made.

The sound is great, as others have said. My previous system was a touch louder (which I didn't like).

The old system:

71515

71516

The new system, turning a nice gold color. I chose the one with cats to maybe cut down on the exhaust smell.

71517

Rick

[glockworks21]

I really like that exhaust system. I might actually get one, if the classic car smog exemption bill (Leno's Law) passes in California.



don't hold your breath...

[DMC-Ron]

Bill just passed out of the Senate Transportation Committee.

[Helirich]

Bill just passed out of the Senate Transportation Committee.

Maybe there?s hope for CA yet.

Cool video JBaker

[seventy4burban]

Well, due to some unforeseen supply chain difficulties I've had to adjust my game plan a little bit. I think this will still work, so with that being said for the first time in 4 years.........


It is in its home.. and since this is looking like it's going to work the way I have it rigged up, it's staying there. I regret I didn't do some things but it is what it is at this point.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250425/51b59761835f69266b9fe85fe2633cd9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250425/004e653ad632cfdba92945e974e799ec.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250425/c9bfc5437b7f13c268e827f3bcb35e90.jpg

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[JohnZ]

Changed wipers after ten years of honourable service! I choose once again the Bosch quality!

Also: I was able to create a personalized set with a 50 cm right hand wiper and a 53 cm left hand wiper! Before today I had both 50s, and now the wiping surface has improved!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250426/13f8d89338a0b49b3779876d21152e6d.jpg

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[Timeless]

10 years!? Holy crap that's a long time.

[JohnZ]

10 years!? Holy crap that's a long time.

It's weird because the last few years I hadn't really had the chance to drive the car under heavy rain! But lately storms were hitting our region, so I was forced to actually use the wipers a lot... and they were not that useful :D A quick stop by the autoshop solved the problem! :)

[Helirich]

It's weird because the last few years I hadn't really had the chance to drive the car under heavy rain! But lately storms were hitting our region, so I was forced to actually use the wipers a lot... and they were not that useful :D A quick stop by the autoshop solved the problem! :)

I rainX the windshield and I never use the wipers. The combination of the steep angle of the windshield and the beading water makes them unneeded.

[82DMC12]

I've had a wiper blade chattering problem for a while. I had Bosch icon blades for a really long time and I think they were pretty good. Then I switched to some beam type wipers which never got much use until last year I was caught in a bad rainstorm while on an 8 hour trip for a DeLorean event. As the storm dissipated, my driver side wiper especially was chattering so badly that it loosened the nut on the motor stud and my arm started flopping around. Fortunately I was able to turn off the wipers, pull over, tighten the nut again, then use the wipers as little as possible until I get to an auto parts store and buy some Rain-X and cheap trico blades. That worked for the rest of the trip with only a little bit of chattering. Now this spring I've been getting ready for another trip and I'd like to completely eliminate the chatter.

I've already replaced the arms including springs with NOS from that sale Houston had a few months ago. Another owner on here told me he had the same problem with chattering even after replacing the arms but when he installed Bosch micro edge blades in the most basic style that fixed it. I have a pair of them on order and will report back.

I will be putting Rain-X on before my trip again.

Anyone else deal with wiper blade chatter and how did they fix it? My windshield was replaced once and I've cleaned it with everything possible including clay bar so I know the windshield is not dirty or have a film on it.

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[Timeless]

I too use Rain-X on my original windshield and and currently have Anco beam blades installed. I did experience very slight chatter on 1 blade but that was reduced when changing to a silicone blade. Silicone blades in combination with Rain-X eliminated the chatter.

I used silicone blades on my Taycan when the windshield had clearplex on it (PPF for windshields) to reduce scratches in the film from standard/OE rubber blades. It worked well.

[82DMC12]

I too use Rain-X on my original windshield and and currently have Anco beam blades installed. I did experience very slight chatter on 1 blade but that was reduced when changing to a silicone blade. Silicone blades in combination with Rain-X eliminated the chatter.

I used silicone blades on my Taycan when the windshield had clearplex on it (PPF for windshields) to reduce scratches in the film from standard/OE rubber blades. It worked well.Good to know. I will try the micro edge blades first since that's what I have on order but if they give me trouble I will try a silicone. One of the vendors was telling me Deloreans are especially susceptible to chatter for some reason. I don't think the wiper arm is totally parallel to the windshield.

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[Timeless]

I don't think the wiper arm is totally parallel to the windshield.
Maybe a stiffer spring in the arms may help?

[seventy4burban]

I couldn't wait for tomorrow to start so I jumped on this tonight and did a little bit......https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250502/e431351105b3a87137e83e35fffac590.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250502/24c93adf254fdaac8971ffe3e85a0e89.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250502/57f6ec3be0ea06254028c68dfcda0a8f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250502/7bc88807006f78948a7882f2f8d3dcb9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250502/e9c11baaf841f2aed3deb7ab3558feff.jpg

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[JohnZ]

Yesterday we performed a couple of simple tasks... Simple, yet time consuming if you want to do it properly! Besides we are friends so we really enjoy our working hours on the DeLorean without rushing!

Basically we simply reinforced the roof box with four bolts and then, while we were there, we also reinforced the door strut mounting point with the DPI bracket! We wanted to install new door seals as well, but we opted for stopping and calling it a day!

The hardest thing was actually re installing the t-panel... We already did that back in 2013, so hellish memories came right up!

Anyway: very satisfying jobs there, not really visible by anyone, but if you know that they are there... you just feel happier and safer :)

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250502/e4740db64f2acb55b1058bd6e549fbc9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250502/d32b742f10123d50eea706425ea2e6ca.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250502/2c7a468231d0e781bc6044991acd6294.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250502/dbdffb73bcde915289e9fbb94621d234.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250502/05499ba4e377afa56ad985be6c111e94.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250502/44fbe6dca02e63ecde2fdcd8a1601c7a.jpg

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[Jonathan]

I couldn't wait for tomorrow to start so I jumped on this tonight and did a little bit......https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250502/e431351105b3a87137e83e35fffac590.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250502/24c93adf254fdaac8971ffe3e85a0e89.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250502/57f6ec3be0ea06254028c68dfcda0a8f.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250502/7bc88807006f78948a7882f2f8d3dcb9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250502/e9c11baaf841f2aed3deb7ab3558feff.jpg

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Hey, what's the story with those brake lines? Is that a kit of some kind? Flexible hoses plus some of the tee's and hardware? Looks sweet!

[seventy4burban]

Yes it is a kit all the lines fittings and junctions to do the whole system from the master to the calipers

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[82DMC12]

Yes it is a kit all the lines fittings and junctions to do the whole system from the master to the calipers

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I have the same kit. Sure looks slick and it's easy to install. However a couple years later I remain somewhat unconvinced that you get the same brake pressure with this system as opposed to mostly hard lines. I would like to do some A-B testing with another car side by side and see what the emergency brake stop distance is from say 60-0.

Also, I see you clipped the front main line that goes to the rear of the car in the same location that the factory tube went. You might want to rethink that since you'll never be able to remove it once the body is back on the frame. I ran mine along with the clutch line on the lower edge of the frame so that I can service it in the future.

[JBaker4981]

Removed the cowl to clean 43 years of dirt under there and install some stainless mesh for the HVAC air intake. Also replaced the fender edge trim that was also 43 years old and rock hard. This product works perfect and matches OE - at least what was on my car.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09NVHTQR3?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

THIS was the find of the month dude. I picked up 50ft of it and rolled it on easily after I cleaned up silicone from the PO on the RFF. Looks beautiful and no longer rock hard either

[seventy4burban]

Tried to tie up some loose ends....looking like the soonest I could mate the frame would be Monday/Tuesday but I'm not confident after the issue today. Anyways it's soooo close https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250507/8efde4917bf80b7746bb6d70651269b6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250507/8ac830cc4af021a56c8f93fc5dc7ff88.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250507/16f29ed6f0f25fd3aa3aef2b5dc21689.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250507/57cbb95cb281c90de3ebe83f3402f116.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250507/62cc70203d890f69ba4fca3d8523bbff.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250507/63736533c2fe3cd38c5f7548a649f1d1.jpg

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[Timeless]

THIS was the find of the month dude. I picked up 50ft of it and rolled it on easily after I cleaned up silicone from the PO on the RFF. Looks beautiful and no longer rock hard either
Thanks! I get excited about the little details and that's what makes a stellar final product. For certain things I'll research as needed and share with the community. Glad I could help.

[Timeless]

Custom leather e-brake handle utilizing original factory leather from the seat backs.
7159571596

[JohnZ]

Cleaned the engine bay fiberglass with tons of WD-40, as my friend and previous owner Jason Sharkey from Indiana once suggested me to do! And it worked flawlessly! It took all the dirt away, all the dust and stuff... now everything is much cleaner! Also, I did some paint touch ups on the fuel distributor... lately replacing the fuel lines made some rusty spots appear due to fuel spilling out! Now it's fine again :)

71630

71631

[JBaker4981]

Last weekend, 27 of us met up in Louisville, Kentucky for a weekend of Bourbon tours, bars, good food, and laughs.

Enjoy 500+ photos with special guest Zach DeLorean :)

https://tn-dmc.com/photos%3A-bourbon-trail-25

[82DMC12]

Last weekend, 27 of us met up in Louisville, Kentucky for a weekend of Bourbon tours, bars, good food, and laughs.

Enjoy 500+ photos with special guest Zach DeLorean :)

https://tn-dmc.com/photos%3A-bourbon-trail-25That was a hell of a weekend! It was a 1300 mile round trip for me. Thanks for posting the pics!

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[82DMC12]

Last weekend, 27 of us met up in Louisville, Kentucky for a weekend of Bourbon tours, bars, good food, and laughs.

Enjoy 500+ photos with special guest Zach DeLorean :)

https://tn-dmc.com/photos%3A-bourbon-trail-25Almost forgot, here are a few drone shots from Saturday night!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250527/3d64f41b1735510a048f6a1a36979e59.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250527/b45de930b5a64033d608e955299e06b0.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250527/489eecb16293b0a88aedd81dedeecf2b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250527/0906c14217601d44d95c3f413cc71965.jpg

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[JETS 81 DMC]

Thanks for sharing the pics.

Enjoyed them and sure looks like an awesome time was had. :thumbup2: :cheers:

[JohnZ]

Yesterday I managed to replace the diaphragm for the AC selector switch! My window motors are bad and lately the driver's side died as well! Just in time for the hot weather to come here in the mountains!

So because the air flow in my car was all over the place, no matter the position of the selector, and also the mode swhich was hissing when I tried to rotate it, I felt that it was about time for the switch to be rebuilt!

I had to remove the console, I can't figure out how you do it with the center tunnel installed! But overall it was a pretty straightforward job :) I still have some issues with the electrical side of it (fan turns off went in certain modes, such as VENT) but I see that there is a lot of literature about this, so I will search and find the answer :)

Keep in mind that my AC doesn't work, so I just needed a flow of air coming from the center ports...and the result is achieved! Next steps: adjust the rubber channels on the center events for maximum air flow and put some oil in the squeaky blower motor! :)


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250607/defcb7d4581e966f7a84451546111a9b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250607/e463868759d83c7111a15dc77cf223c5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250607/f11ffe74d06f8a2d1c63ef47ee5ba8f6.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250607/e80cff5c0d1cb7303dc698e32f007b9e.jpg

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[Carbuilder]

I still have some issues with the electrical side of it (fan turns off went in certain modes, such as VENT) but I see that there is a lot of literature about this, so I will search and find the answer

Is the fan speed supposed to be adjustable when on VENT? Mine isn't. I searched and couldn't find any info on this.

[JohnZ]

To be honest I don't know, I am still figuring out how all the modes should behave... It's difficult to point that out exactly when you're not even sure that everything in your system works correctly :D

Anyway, also in NORM mode my blower shuts off... Maybe it's an electrical connection inside the switch, I have to try to jiggle it and see

Yours is a good question though... Let's wait for some knowledgeable answers!

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Is the fan speed supposed to be adjustable when on VENT? Mine isn't. I searched and couldn't find any info on this.

The fan should have all four speeds on any position of the mode switch except for OFF. The mode switch can only shut the fan on or off, it has nothing to do with which speed the fan runs. Maybe a weak connection in the mode switch could cause speed 1 or 2 to not run. Since speed 3 or 4 use a relay a weak connection would probably not affect those.

[Carbuilder]

I have all 4 fan speeds with heat and A/C. But with VENT I don't. Can't remember if the fan is on at all or just on speed 1; I don't think it is on at all.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I have all 4 fan speeds with heat and A/C. But with VENT I don't. Can't remember if the fan is on at all or just on speed 1; I don't think it is on at all.

It must be the mode switch electrical connection (the copper inside) is damaged.

[JohnZ]

I won't hijack this thread, but just to put an end on this: tonight I took a short trip with the car, and I jiggled the switch, and all the modes made the blower motor turn on, as it is supposed to be! I think that the selector must be rotated and set really tight and precise, because if you lose that millimeter you won't be getting current properly!

It's fine with me: as long as I have a "summer mode" (NORM at max speed) and a "winter mode" (DEFROST with heat) working adequately I'm super fine! :)

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[MacStainless]

This weekend I successfully performed a full AC test and recharge. I knew NOTHING about how to do this. But thanks to the miracle of YouTube, specifically the DeloreanTech and ChrisFix channels, I felt I could do this.

In 2021 I had my car serviced at shop and when I asked them to test the AC system and put RedTek in it, they instead just put R134 into the car and changed the fittings to the modern quick-release ones. Of course my AC stopped working after a year due to low pressue.

A few weeks ago I bought 2 cans of RedTek and a can of their LeakStop. This weekend I bought all the tools and embarked on the project. It was mostly uneventful, minus between cans me thinking I had an electrical issue because the compressor wouldn't kick on. Stupid me, it was because I hadn't put the second can in and it was hovering at 40PSI. After posting here and digging through other similar posts, I decided today to resume the service. Lo and behold as the 2nd can was going in, the compressor kicked on! It cycles like a champ and temps at idle are about 49-degrees.

I'm generally not mechanically-inclined and I don't have a lift or the ability to do major service work to the car. But the fact that I leak-tested the system, evacuated it to remove all moisture, added oil, and then successfully added the RedTek has me feeling super accomplished. Now I don't have to literally and figuratively sweat an upcoming hot day I want to take the car out. I tried that once without AC and it was BRUTAL.

Next up: finding a thread adhesive that's safe around gas so I can finally cap off the old fuel sender hole. The DPI cap comes off constantly, no matter how many times I've screwed it back on.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I found out my passenger side rear latch does not lock. The latch works but when locked it will still release. The frond latch does lock and unlock. I had seen a few times I could not open the passenger side door until I cycled the lock a few times from the drivers side. Well turns out that rear lock rod fell out of the arm near the latch. Can't reach or see why and how to put it back in so looks like I need to remove the lower door panel.

That is probably why I could not open that door a few times after locking the doors. That rod jammed up so the unlock could not move.

Anyway, has anyone done that modification that DMCH posted instructions on to improve the latch locks. I figure since I will have the doors panels off it's a good time to do it. I've never cleaned the latches anyway.

[Bitsyncmaster]

This is where the latch rod is located and I assume the lock rod goes into the one that shows some rust. Passenger side rear latch. Looks like the lock rod got turned so it was riding on the wrong part of the rod. I may need to find a way to prevent that from happening again.

Playing with the latch (move the latch to open or closed) I see how that plastic blocks the lock from moving if your doors are open. I wonder why they did that.

[Carbuilder]

This weekend I successfully performed a full AC test and recharge.

I did the same thing a few weeks ago. The A/C works perfectly now. But I did have a heck of a time trying to get the refrigerant in at first. Then a bit of research and I figured out why.

Can you see why?

71695

[DMC5180]

deleted

[Bitsyncmaster]

I take it the lock rod doesn?t use one of those rod retainer clips found on some of the other rods in the door.


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The ends at the latch are an S bend, so no retainer.

Finished the rear latch modification. Not hard to do the mod but takes patience to get the latch out and back in. I swapped the lock and latch rod locations by accident. But when operating the lock manually I found that problem quickly. On to the front latch mod since the door is all open now.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Front latch mod done. Much easier since you can get your hand in there. Still have to put the dreaded panels back on. I'd jump right over to the drivers door if not for that. I don't know why they did not cut the unused bell cranks off the latches. Would make it a little easier.

[seventy4burban]

ITS TOGETHER. Well the frame and body that ishttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250630/0bf86d76a397057a704155167d50a754.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250630/bf6b6a3bb07d9e0934855661b5610ede.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250630/10f5299d8cdaca7910e045c031cc9a38.jpg

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Front latch mod done. Much easier since you can get your hand in there. Still have to put the dreaded panels back on. I'd jump right over to the drivers door if not for that. I don't know why they did not cut the unused bell cranks off the latches. Would make it a little easier.

I will do the drivers door next time I have to get into the door. I think this modification is more important for owners with remote door locks. Pretty easy to accidentally hit lock on a remote.

[seventy4burban]

So one of the things I've been doing while I was waiting on parts and had the interior tore apart. I went ahead and cleaned out all the old nasty glue from the carpets and put in this sound deadening foam. I'm skeptical about how much difference it's going to make and even if I notice considering I haven't driven this car in years. But I figure at least if anything. I got everything underneath the carpets cleaned out. The old glue cleaned up the foam and now I got good double-sided tape holding the carpets down nice and tight.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250702/3af9cf9f2604316f9a7fd1bae330d03b.jpg

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[Bitsyncmaster]

Don't know what they are called but I tore the skin from the top of my hand putting my seat belt on. Probably only a concern with owners 60 + years old. That plastic is not sharp but when your old, your skin thins and scraping anything rips your skin. I may pull those caps off and round the edges. I noticed in my early 60's that my skin has thinned (fat layer under the skin goes away) and any scrapes will tear the skin. I'm now 72 so really have to be careful all the time.

Edit:
Seemed glued on pretty good, so I just put some tape on the vinyl and used some 220 sandpaper to round over the edge.

[seventy4burban]

Slow progress.....for the record the AC box is a pain in the ass https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250708/352444b943513a7218ff1d7043040f33.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250708/c96829b0263d824399962822a3b7b5a7.jpg

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[Bitsyncmaster]

I verified that the "whine" in my engine compartment with the key turned to on is the alternator. That is the only sound with just the key on in the compartment. I unplugged the 4 pin connector and the whine stopped. It's the power supplied by the "charge" bulb that powers the switching regulator in the alternator. I could power that with engine run voltage but then you don't get the bulb test light.

[Patrick C]

I verified that the "whine" in my engine compartment with the key turned to on is the alternator. That is the only sound with just the key on in the compartment. I unplugged the 4 pin connector and the whine stopped. It's the power supplied by the "charge" bulb that powers the switching regulator in the alternator. I could power that with engine run voltage but then you don't get the bulb test light.

DMCH 140 amp alternator? Mine does the same, and for some period of time a few years ago would continue even with the key off. It resolved itself on its own (knock on wood) but I know I read where at least one other had the same problem and had to replace the alternator.

[ssdelorean]

DMCH 140 amp alternator? Mine does the same, and for some period of time a few years ago would continue even with the key off. It resolved itself on its own (knock on wood) but I know I read where at least one other had the same problem and had to replace the alternator.

On rare occasions my DMCH alternator makes a little whining sound after I have shut off and removed the key from the car. If I hit the brake pedal, it stops. Probably has happened at least 10 times in the past few years.

Why? I'd like to know but it's not keeping me up at night

[Bitsyncmaster]

DMCH 140 amp alternator? Mine does the same, and for some period of time a few years ago would continue even with the key off. It resolved itself on its own (knock on wood) but I know I read where at least one other had the same problem and had to replace the alternator.

Yes. It is the DMCH 140 amp. It's the one that would flash and error code if you don't connect the sense terminal to the battery. Don't know if it always made that whine.

[Patrick C]

On rare occasions my DMCH alternator makes a little whining sound after I have shut off and removed the key from the car. If I hit the brake pedal, it stops. Probably has happened at least 10 times in the past few years.

Why? I'd like to know but it's not keeping me up at night

Ah ha! A brake pedal quick fix. I'll have to remember that if it starts again!

[JBaker4981]

7/26/2025...... Replaced the Fuel Filter. Surprisingly easier than expected by not removing the compression fitting (elbow) from the hardline.

That little job was long overdue by 18,000 miles or... 5 years. Whoopsie!

[Aaron Cake]

Aug 2nd - Aug 4th (holiday Monday in Canada)

#5637 got a working stereo powered by a new auxillary fuse panel w/dedicated accessory relay.
Waiting on speakers as it turns out the 20 year old Pioneer speakers installed in the car suck.
Will post a writeup when I'm done.

Also fixed a slight coolant leak at the front passenger rad/bleed hose by tightening the clamps. New hoses, new clamps. Sometimes they need a snugging after some heat cycles.

[DMC5180]

Slow progress.....for the record the AC box is a pain in the ass https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250708/352444b943513a7218ff1d7043040f33.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250708/c96829b0263d824399962822a3b7b5a7.jpg

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BTDT

Never Again!


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[seventy4burban]

I hope not

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[DMC5180]

Over the years I would look at my Interior Vinyl always wondering what it looked like when new. The Vinyl always had a brownish tinge which I assumed I was stuck with being a 44 year old vehicle. Well, after replacing the vinyl on the RH knee pad a couple weeks ago with the new cover kit from DMCH, Which looks great btw. I realized just how off the old vinyl looked against the new vinyl. On a whim I decided to see if the Door vinyl was cleanable. I happened to have a detailer recommended product (GTECHNIQ Tri-Clean) on the shelf I?d bought for cleaning the white interior of my Daily Driver.

Holy smokes! I couldn?t believe the difference.

This is a comparison on a half cleaned upper door panel.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250913/74411eb4669b925b7159e4ed5f784f15.jpg

[WHO1DMC]

Over the years I would look at my Interior Vinyl always wondering what it looked like when new. The Vinyl always had a brownish tinge which I assumed I was stuck with being a 44 year old vehicle. Well, after replacing the vinyl on the RH knee pad a couple weeks ago with the new cover kit from DMCH, Which looks great btw. I realized just how off the old vinyl looked against the new vinyl. On a whim I decided to see if the Door vinyl was cleanable. I happened to have a detailer recommended product (GTECHNIQ Tri-Clean) on the shelf I?d bought for cleaning the white interior of my Daily Driver.

Holy smokes! I couldn?t believe the difference.

This is a comparison on a half cleaned upper door panel.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250913/74411eb4669b925b7159e4ed5f784f15.jpg

Now it's time to put new foam in to give some definition.





Dave B.

[DMC5180]

Now it's time to put new foam in to give some definition.





Dave B.

It?s on the to do list. I have the foam kit for that too.


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[cis6409]

Love that , massive difference

[WHO1DMC]

I had to crack open the wallet for a new battery.
Went out and found the old one at less than 5v.






Dave B.

[seventy4burban]

Well this mod is done although somehow I ended up with two different temperature bulbs but that will be fixed another day. I don't know why they didn't put a second light in at the factory. It just makes more sensehttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250916/1fc166306f700a9a6915f283f4708315.jpg

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[JohnZ]

Replaced the injectors, now it seems the car starts slightly better! (faster) It was a joy to test them with the jar method... they sprayed vigorously! :)

Fun fact: I did that myself, while my friend worked on the window motors' replacement. I had him put the pipe of agony on, because I was tired of trying to do that. He said "It's in, no big deal!". Tried to start the car with brand new injectors... it would die instantly. Just a rapid explosion and cycle, and the car would die. If I pressed the throttle it would stay on, but then it would die. PANIC! it was 7 PM, we were working on the damn window motors since 9 AM... the thought of not being able to go home, and thus leave the car in the shop we usually work in (that our friend gives us) was too much to bear! :sad30:

So I used my head and traced everything down... it must be something on the idling circuit, but I am sure I connected just everything I had disconnected... then the revelation. I push the metering plate down and TADAH! the pipe of agony was not inserted at all. So I punched and kicked my dear friend, and proceeded to insert it myself out of rage, and the car started beautifully! :woot:

Moral of the story: always double check things! :D

As for the window motors... we went mad at realigning the passenger side glass and carrier... it just won't stay straight! It leans towards the cabin of the car, wobbling no matter the tweakings on the guides and therefore slipping from the guides! We will figure it out! :)

Just another day working on a Delorean! :thumbup2:

[Mark D]

Over the years I would look at my Interior Vinyl always wondering what it looked like when new. The Vinyl always had a brownish tinge which I assumed I was stuck with being a 44 year old vehicle. Well, after replacing the vinyl on the RH knee pad a couple weeks ago with the new cover kit from DMCH, Which looks great btw. I realized just how off the old vinyl looked against the new vinyl. On a whim I decided to see if the Door vinyl was cleanable. I happened to have a detailer recommended product (GTECHNIQ Tri-Clean) on the shelf I?d bought for cleaning the white interior of my Daily Driver.

Holy smokes! I couldn?t believe the difference.

This is a comparison on a half cleaned upper door panel.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250913/74411eb4669b925b7159e4ed5f784f15.jpg

Wow, that's quite a difference! I experience a similar level of color change on my seats when I cleaned them with Leatherique when I first bought the car. It's amazing how much dirt and grime the interior surfaces can hold.

[Mark D]

I drove the DeLorean for what's probably only the third or fourth time this summer just to move it out of the storage garage so I could extract my E46 touring. It's been parked behind the DeLorean for almost 2 years now.

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=71766&d=1758028066


https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=71769&d=1758028268


https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=71767&d=1758028090


So now I've got two red BMW wagons sharing the same garage, neither currently road worthy. I'm fixing the auto transmission on the B30 swapped AWD car on the right, and the one on the left is the RWD manual trans car that I just pulled out of storage. That one about half way through an interior color swap from gray to brown, and I borrowed the euro tail lights to install on the other wagon.

https://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=71768&d=1758028113

[seventy4burban]

Well I spun the car around the first time it changed positions in 5 years..... Have a leaky brake line that's stopping that for the time being but Tuesday the exhaust system will be here and if nothing else goes wrong by Thursday this car may actually be running.https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250920/969fcbab2525bfba3d29346656fb12bc.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250920/f8bb90b5a3601f0147be9106a97fe73b.jpg

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[DMC5180]

I got to deal with this Less than 1 mile from , on the way to, the 26th Annual Deer Lake Orchard meet up of the Delorean Minnesota Club. (DMNC)

Always carry a spare Alternator Belt, just in case. I thought I had one, but it turned out I only had the A/C belt. Fortunately, another owner who was traveling with me had one. 30 minutes later I was on the road again to complete the last mile of the trip. What Crazy timing! I had just driven 375 miles to the point of failure. This literally could have happened Anywhere along the trip.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20250923/f25052bd6cf610188eafdabb31db610c.jpg


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[glockworks21]

Finally got ebrake adjusted properly.. can sit on a slant now in neutral
Thanks Dave and Andy for your help!

[JohnZ]

This time I did nothing special, just a 740 miles trip in the middle of Italy with my DeLorean! I live in the mountains, and I enjoyed driving 12 hours over hills, mountains passes, country roads! It was amazing, and the DeLorean performed greatly!

Sometimes it takes just that to be happy...driving your dream car across the country, enjoying every turn, every slope and every bump! With these cars you can feel everything, and you are actually driving the car!

It could be challenging to use the heavy clutch, heavy steering and operate the silly brakes for 12 continuous hours...but I'm the end it gives you an enormous amount of satisfaction!

One moment I was climbing up a steep pass...I could feel everything that was going on under the wheels, and I was one with the car...I WAS the car! :) it's been amazing.... :)

I did not take a lot of pictures, here's a few :)


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251004/2ff891e8c5faad814fe1c6253e98118e.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251004/281adc6292fc76eed2d04ef81977f126.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251004/283a300ff177275ec67ba59d17e4b346.jpg

[Aaron Cake]

Completely washed and totally cleaned #5637 yesterday in prep for a car show today, the last one of the seasons. Toothbrush on the vents type clean. Every surface interior and out. Bar Keepers Friend on the stainless, leather goo on the seats, washed the engine.

And that last one was a mistake because my original Motorola alternator is no longer charging. I guess the moisture was too much for it after 44 years.

Oh I'm still definitely going to the car show. Only about 8KM away, should be able to make it there and back just fine on the battery. Naturally I want to hedge my bets so will connect another spare battery in parallel with the main battery just to be sure...

[Helirich]

Completely washed and totally cleaned #5637 yesterday in prep for a car show today, the last one of the seasons. Toothbrush on the vents type clean. Every surface interior and out. Bar Keepers Friend on the stainless, leather goo on the seats, washed the engine.

And that last one was a mistake because my original Motorola alternator is no longer charging. I guess the moisture was too much for it after 44 years.

Oh I'm still definitely going to the car show. Only about 8KM away, should be able to make it there and back just fine on the battery. Naturally I want to hedge my bets so will connect another spare battery in parallel with the main battery just to be sure...

You could just carry an extra battery and cables. I don?t think you need to actually connect it.

[JohnZ]

I reinstalled the passenger side sun visor, after I took them both out when I bought the car (2013), for visibility reasons (I'm tall). But after a few complaints from my fellow passengers I decided to put the passenger side sun visor back on! And I have to say it looks cool! Also having one side only adds to the mystique of my car... :)

I'm on the team of "keep the sunvisor forward when not in use" because I think it looks way cooler! But I can't seem to be able to fold it inward anyway... It just physically stops, because it hits the headliner! How can you fold it back to have the fabric parts meet? (Not that I want to... Just out of curiosity!)


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251005/66900e7b25bff8be75e7f1f5144bcedf.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251005/c28e991df8d135afab8c6db9ce790e3c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251005/dcc082af66e670a89fbc9396f75d7195.jpg

[Rich]

Your car currently has a driver side sun visor mounted on the passenger side.

The visor hinge arms and the visors are asymmetric to allow the visor to fit evenly against the shaped headliner.

So try to find the passenger side visor you removed 12 years ago and install it.

Note: The vinyl side of each visor touches the headliner fabric when the visors are in rear/open position. Putting the correct visor on should solve both problems.


?.. But I can't seem to be able to fold it inward anyway... It just physically stops, because it hits the headliner! How can you fold it back to have the fabric parts meet? (Not that I want to... Just out of curiosity!)


https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251005/c28e991df8d135afab8c6db9ce790e3c.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251005/dcc082af66e670a89fbc9396f75d7195.jpg

[Patrick C]

Note: The vinyl side of each visor touches the headliner fabric when the visors are in rear/open position. Putting the correct visor on should solve both problems.

Per the concours manual:

Sun Visors
(up to VIN 01791-have early-style visors identified by vinyl side facing in when in
stowed position
from VIN 01792 to 04200-should have later-style visors identified by vinyl side
facing out when in stowed position, but it’s acceptable to have the early-style visors
from VIN 04201-have later-style visors identified by vinyl side facing out when in
stowed position)

[JohnZ]

Ok thanks to you both! I'm VIN 3305, doesn't that mean that I should have the vinyl facing the windshield? And if I swap sunvisors, would this fact be contradicted?

[Patrick C]

Ok thanks to you both! I'm VIN 3305, doesn't that mean that I should have the vinyl facing the windshield? And if I swap sunvisors, would this fact be contradicted?

I would study the curvature of your visors and install them however they fit best when in the closed position. My hunch is yours are reversed from how they were originally installed.

[JohnZ]

Thanks Patrick! Is it possible to remove the metal "retainers" and swap them over to the other visors? Do I just pull them out? (I don't want to break anything)

By doing this I would keep the visor that I like (vinyl out, fabric in, when opened), but at the same time keep the right geometry for the mounting bracket!

What do you think?

:)

[Aaron Cake]

You could just carry an extra battery and cables. I don?t think you need to actually connect it.

I wanted to hedge my bets.

Good news is that to and from the show was uneventful. Batteries held around 12V the entire time. Cranked strong when leaving.

Naturally, the alternator started charging again as I was pulling into my driveway.

[Patrick C]

Thanks Patrick! Is it possible to remove the metal "retainers" and swap them over to the other visors? Do I just pull them out? (I don't want to break anything)

By doing this I would keep the visor that I like (vinyl out, fabric in, when opened), but at the same time keep the right geometry for the mounting bracket!

What do you think?

:)

It has been a while, but I believe the retainers do just pull out.

[JohnZ]

It has been a while, but I believe the retainers do just pull out.You are right! And that is what I did! But nothing really changed... The sunvisor doesn't actually fold in, but as I said I like it way better when stored toward the windshield! I think it's more elegant....

Anyway I also did something else on the car: despite lately replacing the rubber diaphragm on the mode switch for the internal air conditioning, the thing suddenly began to hiss once again!

So I took it apart again, and this time I lubed the maze and the metal part with a generous amount of silicone grease, whereas the first time I did smeared it with just a tiny amount of generic grease... It was day and night! Now the movement feels much smoother and it works the way it is supposed to do!

So remember: if you do that, make sure that everything is smooth before reassembling! :)

[82DMC12]

Not a lot happening these days, I just turn the key and go. Once your car is in that state you start to deal with little more than routine maintenance and the odd things that break or get out of adjustment. I was driving up to Cars and Coffee in Bonner Springs, Kansas on highway 7 and on some types of pavement felt some vibrations through the steering wheel. Just enough more than usual that I thought I might poke around when I got home. I checked torque on all the front suspension bolts and found the driver side lower LCA could take another turn before I hit 60 ft lbs. That could definitely do it since the frame tubes have to compress to pinch the bushing in the LCA. I also snugged down the top nuts for the coilovers above the shock towers a few turns, the were not loose but certainly not tight, I'm thinking the bushings have compressed a bit now that I have around 5000 miles on the coilovers.

Oh and I also brought the front wheels in to get re-balanced, one wheel was off by 1/2 oz and the other off 3/4 oz.

Test drive after and much better!

71823

[Helirich]

I?ve have property about 60 miles from my house. I have to go down there to do some work now and then. I recently found a new back road to take there. It is a nice smooth road with very little traffic. It consists of large sweeping turns and long straight sections. I find the car can easily handle this road at well over 80 mph safely. This car is a nice driver at these speeds. The engine doesn?t seem to be working hard. A couple times I looked down and saw I was over a 100 without even trying. It?s funny how there?s no real wind noise at those speeds. I sware my wife?s new Vette makes more noise. What a great car.

[jackb]

Not so much ?what did I do *to* my Delorean?, but more like ?what did I do *with* my Delorean?; last week a friend and I convoyed with our cars from Las Vegas to Puente Hills, CA for the BTTF Temporal Experiment #1 at the Twin Pines/Lone Pine Mall. I?d never been and naively anticipated like 50 people, tops. There were thousands of people there. Great night.

It was a little over 500 miles round trip and I did nothing to the car to prepare beyond throwing a spare belt in the cubby just in case. No issues, drove like a champ.

[Patrick C]

Took VIN 1880 on one final drive of the year last week before the snow flew.

https://images.clickpix.org/AGplV4.jpeg

[iflights]

Moved 4665 to the 3rd car garage bay for winter for the 1st time in my 10 years of ownership. That 3rd spot was formerly a coveted area for kids bikes, scooters, and other "stuff" for the last 30 years. Now its mine!

[Helirich]

Took VIN 1880 on one final drive of the year last week before the snow flew.

https://images.clickpix.org/AGplV4.jpeg

Not seen the wing before. Is that something you made custom?

[Patrick C]

Not seen the wing before. Is that something you made custom?

It is the same spoiler that the DeLorean aftermarket catalogs were selling back in the 1980's. In reality, it is a GM part off a Trans-Am.

https://images.clickpix.org/AGs4Uo.png

[seventy4burban]

I haven't been active much on here. I need to do a catch-up post but small teaser https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251219/1db9abbb0ee46e8688bfcf4cc1e7e4f0.jpg

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[glockworks21]

one last drive before the 48 degree temp drop on monday

[Bitsyncmaster]

Took it for a drive today. God that gear oil really gets thick sitting at 45 deg in my garage. Took some effort shifting backing out. Would hate to see what it's like colder.

Anyway, my weighted air plate seems to work fine. Not really any difference noted in driving. But the major thing is that third gear buzz did not show up. Maybe because of the cold but I put some tubing on a few fuel lines that I think were "banging" on the firewall or each other. I also put some foam on my new accumulator but don't think that was the cause. I think that main fuel line from the filter was the one.

[OZ DMC]

I am about to replace all 13 fuel lines using the DeloreanGo Kit. Besides the new lines, I will use new banjo bolts, copper washers, injectors and clips.

Any advice or tips?
Should I use tape on the screw on the main fuel line from the filter?

Thank you

[OZ DMC]

I am about to replace all 13 fuel lines using the DeloreanGo Kit. Besides the new lines, I will use new banjo bolts, copper washers, injectors and clips.

Any advice or tips?
Should I use tape on the screw on the main fuel line from the filter?

Thank you

I have replaced the main 9 lines so far. Tried to start the engine, but no go.
Plenty of cranking but no action with the fuel.

I jumped the purple/white and brown wires on the RPM relay and could hear the pump buzz but not a drop of fuel in the bottle I had set up on the injector of cylinder no 3......

Any suggestions welcome

[JohnZ]

I did the same lately, replacing the lines from the fuel distributor, injectors and testing...been good ever since! Also the other day I replaced the fuel filter and the main line, and again everything was good....

Did you eventually put the tape on the threads? Maybe something is blocking the hole on the bolt

[OZ DMC]

I did the same lately, replacing the lines from the fuel distributor, injectors and testing...been good ever since! Also the other day I replaced the fuel filter and the main line, and again everything was good....

Did you eventually put the tape on the threads? Maybe something is blocking the hole on the bolt

I did not use any tape as I was essentially just placing the injector lines.....

[Bitsyncmaster]

I have replaced the main 9 lines so far. Tried to start the engine, but no go.
Plenty of cranking but no action with the fuel.

I jumped the purple/white and brown wires on the RPM relay and could hear the pump buzz but not a drop of fuel in the bottle I had set up on the injector of cylinder no 3......

Any suggestions welcome

You won't get any fuel from an injector until the air plate is moved down. But don't press it down unless you have all six injectors removed or it will flood the cylinders with fuel. You can pull the CSV of FV line off if you want to see if fuel flows.

[JohnZ]

You won't get any fuel from an injector until the air plate is moved down. But don't press it down unless you have all six injectors removed or it will flood the cylinders with fuel. You can pull the CSV of FV line off if you want to see if fuel flows.

I was going to say that as well, but I then assumed that the testing had been done properly (priming and pressing the plate as well). Then he also tried to start the car normally, so maybe there is really something wrong... but that is weird!

Try with another, or better yet, all the injectors! That will also ensure that every injector sprays evenly!

[OZ DMC]

You won't get any fuel from an injector until the air plate is moved down. But don't press it down unless you have all six injectors removed or it will flood the cylinders with fuel. You can pull the CSV of FV line off if you want to see if fuel flows.

Many thanks for your response Dave, appreciated.....

I realised after my initial test why it did not work and will take your advice on the CSV line.

[OZ DMC]

I was going to say that as well, but I then assumed that the testing had been done properly (priming and pressing the plate as well). Then he also tried to start the car normally, so maybe there is really something wrong... but that is weird!

Try with another, or better yet, all the injectors! That will also ensure that every injector sprays evenly!

JohnZ, Thanks for your response.

[OZ DMC]

While I'm in repair mode, any suggestions on the best way to access the clutch slave? - from the engine bay or from underneath?

Any special tricks or tips for replacing the slave?

[JohnZ]

This is how I did mine... back in 2014!

71961 71962 71963

I'm sorry, not a great view I admit...

:)

[Patrick C]

While I'm in repair mode, any suggestions on the best way to access the clutch slave? - from the engine bay or from underneath?

Any special tricks or tips for replacing the slave?

It is easier from underneath, but you have to do it almost blindly. If for some reason you have to take the intake manifold off the engine (water pump replacement, etc) it is super easy to access the slave from above that way.

[OZ DMC]

This is how I did mine... back in 2014!

71961 71962 71963

I'm sorry, not a great view I admit...

:)
Thanks JohnZ

[OZ DMC]

It is easier from underneath, but you have to do it almost blindly. If for some reason you have to take the intake manifold off the engine (water pump replacement, etc) it is super easy to access the slave from above that way.

Thanks Partick C

[r00b]

It's super easy to do if you remove the body tub first.

[DMC5180]

It's super easy to do if you remove the body tub first.

You don?t say. [emoji849]


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[Bitsyncmaster]

Got my passenger side rocker panel back on. I had to drill out the old screws that were frozen in the riv-nuts. I just used #12 x 3/4" SS sheet metal screws rather than installing new rev-nuts. That tub is tough stuff. Takes a lot of force installing those screws even though I drilled a pilot hole a little larger than the diameter of the shaft on the screw. You also don't need to use washers doing this.

What do people use to glue the large seal that covers the bolts on the top of the fender. It looks like mine was done with ply-o-bond rubber glue.

[Timeless]

What do people use to glue the large seal that covers the bolts on the top of the fender. It looks like mine was done with ply-o-bond rubber glue.
I swear by this stuff. Used it for a water tight seal for my roof box bolt holes + other car sealant needs.

https://www.sashco.com/products/lexel/

[Rich]

You're asking about this part (https://store.classicdmc.com/108247-fender-finishing-strip.html).

The ClassicDMC part listing Details section for that finisher strip says to use weatherstrip contact adhesive.

Pliobond is a contact adhesive that comes in about 10 flavors. Can't say whether any of them are auto weatherstrip adhesives.

You could use the weatherstrip adhesive you're attaching your outer door seal to that fender with.


PS, that part doesn't act as a seal. Its job is to mask the fender flange and its stainless hex screws.



What do people use to glue the large seal that covers the bolts on the top of the fender. It looks like mine was done with ply-o-bond rubber glue.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I started drilling the drivers side rocker screws. I'm curious how the PO modified the front door pin nut without removing the fender. I did buy a new NOS bracket for fear of what they did with the original.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I started drilling the drivers side rocker screws. I'm curious how the PO modified the front door pin nut without removing the fender. I did buy a new NOS bracket for fear of what they did with the original.

I guess the PO took the door trim piece off. Then got the floating nut plate out (somehow) by bending the sheet metal and cutting the square bracket hole larger. The nut plate was cut but it looks as rusty as all of the nut. Maybe this was done at the factory.

I don't think the fender was ever removed before.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I finished the modification of the door pin bracket. This drivers side I cut a little of the bracket off the top so I could mount is 0.2" higher. This may have been a problem why that door pin was so low. After painting the bracket black, I thought maybe I should make a sheet metal plate to hide the very large hole in the plastic door finish panel the was cut out by the PO.

Anyway, You can removes the front fenders without completely removing the front bumper. That means you don't need to pull the headlight mounting to remove those top nuts which are probably frozen anyway. There is enough flex to remove the front fender screws. I did have a broken bolt on the lower spoiler. Passenger side did not break any. Both rockers had to drill the the screws off. I ordered the rocker top nylon clips from DMCH because some did break off.

I've been running my wall mounted heat pump a lot. Fear a really bit electric bill this month. It turns out when it's below 30 deg. F outside it runs a resistance heater rather than the heat pump.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I'm installing NOS door latches in my drivers side. Got the new front one installed but my bell crank that opens the latches is binding.

This one:

https://store.classicdmc.com/100865-lh-door-release-bellcrank.html

What this doe is not lock the latch in closed position when you shut the door. I could put an extra spring on it to overcome that bell crank friction. It's just the latch springs that pull the bell crank back in stock form. You can also push on the inside door open lever and that will push it back. I guess I will pull that bellcrank out and see if I can clean it but the moving parts are held by a large machine pressed part. I did spray some WD-40 in it and that did nothing to help.

Edit:
Found the problem. My front latch rod had some twist (was not bent at proper angles). I twisted the rod for the proper angle and now it does not stick. It must have had this problem since new but moved just enough that my latches worked.

[Bitsyncmaster]

More testing still sticking.

I pulled the one screw from that bracket holding the bell crank and that stopped it sticking. So I put a washer under that bracket so it does not bend the bell crank and that seems to work.

[Bitsyncmaster]

New metal door handles installed. The passenger side did not need the rocker to bell crank rod lengthened. It does work the electrical door switch centered. Passenger side closed up and door pins adjusted. Not a two finger close but does not need to be slammed. It's just the rear latch needs more pressure to compress the door seals. It may work better if I install new seals.

Just have the drivers door to close up now.

The OEM door handle broke because opening the door without the door panels installed puts more load on the latches after they are closed.

[DMCflux]

I haven't been active much on here. I need to do a catch-up post but small teaser https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20251219/1db9abbb0ee46e8688bfcf4cc1e7e4f0.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 10 Pro using Tapatalk

Where did you get the speedo? And how did you install?

[seventy4burban]

Where did you get the speedo? And how did you install?eBay, guy in South America made it for me. At the moment it uses only its internal GPS. But it can accept a PPM speedometer signal which I plan to install in the upper speedo cable.

Other than that power ACC power, ground, and it has a input trigger, dimming function for vehicle lights And outputs 5VDC at 88 MPH

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[seventy4burban]

Car work is slowed.....still trying to figure out my control pressure issue.....but I have been building this for fun https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260227/24bab4adc475eaf3256598a5f40ecd67.jpg

Sent from my Pixel 10 Pro using Tapatalk

[Bitsyncmaster]

Got the car all back together and off the ramps. I also had the rear tires up on 6 inch blocks when I was removing the front fenders. Wow this car looks so low now after about 3 months of it elevated. Took it around the block for a drive. I definitely have to get the outer seals glued back on. I hear wind noise from passenger door.

Drivers door now closes about same as passenger side. Still not two finger close but much better.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I bumped each door torsion bar up a notch. They both open fully at 55 deg. F but the drivers side only hangs about one inch and the passenger side about 1.5 inch. I think I will keep that setting for now. Why would you want to set them more? It would just put more stress on the torsion bars. That is why I questioned the 4 inch setting most people state.

[DMC-Ron]

Dave,
Absolutely, no reason to put more torque on the torsion bars than is necessary for the doors to open properly. I would guess that there is some variation in the lift power of different gas struts. The 4" recommendation may have come from an earlier period where the struts had less lifting capacity. I have read owners describing how they swapped different brands of struts to select one that works with their door setup.
Ron

[Bitsyncmaster]

Dave,
Absolutely, no reason to put more torque on the torsion bars than is necessary for the doors to open properly. I would guess that there is some variation in the lift power of different gas struts. The 4" recommendation may have come from an earlier period where the struts had less lifting capacity. I have read owners describing how they swapped different brands of struts to select one that works with their door setup.
Ron

Only reason to use more would be if your doors don't open with remote door poppers. The strut does not do much when the door is closed because of the angle, it is just pushing the door inward.

[Helirich]

So my trunk latch was not springing up. I had to lift the trunk while pulling the handle. I ordered a new spring. When I took it apart, there were two weaker springs on it. Is that the way they use to do it? I put the new one on and it works good. I have one of those back up cables and it?s hard to pull it with the new spring. But it still works.

I also got a new engine cover spring. My old one does lift when I release it. I wouldn?t say it pops up, but it goes up a bit. Should I wait?

I installed a new resistor in the AC/heat fan. Nice to have all my speeds.

[Rich]

1. No, the factory luggage compartment latch was fitted with a single spring.

2. To minimize the cable release force be sure the pivoting latch is lubed at its pin and apply some graphite or silicone grease around the bail of the hood latch striker where the latch hook engages it. That should reduce the friction. If it still is hard to release try adding a thin sheetmetal spacer or washers between the hood latch striker and the hood so the striker sits a tad lower with the hood latched closed. That will lessen the upward force of the hood seal when hood is latched. Just a thin shim job should do.

3. Not sure what you mean by just waiting. If the engine cover reliably releases so you can open it after you pull and release the handle then leave it alone. When the latch or the engine cover striker wear to the point where it takes an extra person to pull the handle while you lift the cover then adjust/replace the hardware as needed.


So my trunk latch was not springing up. I had to lift the trunk while pulling the handle. I ordered a new spring. When I took it apart, there were two weaker springs on it. Is that the way they use to do it? I put the new one on and it works good. I have one of those back up cables and it?s hard to pull it with the new spring. But it still works.

I also got a new engine cover spring. My old one does lift when I release it. I wouldn?t say it pops up, but it goes up a bit. Should I wait?

[Patrick C]

When I took it apart, there were two weaker springs on it. Is that the way they use to do it?

No, but it has been a common fix for when it is no longer strong enough to pop the hood that owners would toss a second spring on it. However, this tends to wear away at the striker on the hood faster.

[Helirich]

1. No, the factory luggage compartment latch was fitted with a single spring.

2. To minimize the cable release force be sure the pivoting latch is lubed at its pin and apply some graphite or silicone grease around the bail of the hood latch striker where the latch hook engages it. That should reduce the friction. If it still is hard to release try adding a thin sheetmetal spacer or washers between the hood latch striker and the hood so the striker sits a tad lower with the hood latched closed. That will lessen the upward force of the hood seal when hood is latched. Just a thin shim job should do.

3. Not sure what you mean by just waiting. If the engine cover reliably releases so you can open it after you pull and release the handle then leave it alone. When the latch or the engine cover striker wear to the point where it takes an extra person to pull the handle while you lift the cover then adjust/replace the hardware as needed.

Sounds good. Thanks.

[Helirich]

No, but it has been a common fix for when it is no longer strong enough to pop the hood that owners would toss a second spring on it. However, this tends to wear away at the striker on the hood faster.

Weird, neither spring was as thick of wire. They were nice gold colored springs.

[Bitsyncmaster]

I have a bad wind noise on passenger side door when driving. Never had this before I removed and installed the fender after modifying the door latch bracket. I'm just guessing because the door is higher in the front, now the bottom seal is not working. They are real hard rubber anyway so I'm going to replace those.

[blueguse]

Only reason to use more would be if your doors don't open with remote door poppers. The strut does not do much when the door is closed because of the angle, it is just pushing the door inward.

I had this same issue.. I have not reinforced my roof yet and afraid of adjusting the torsion bars. I'm testing out a simple solution that seems to work and not very noticeable. I'm proceeding with caution as I'm a bit afraid of these getting caught in the door lock mechanism.

72072 72073

[Aaron Cake]

Installed the permanent fix to the engine cover latch catch issue I developed on #5637. Works well. Will be posting a thread about it soon. No more pulled out engine cover latch catch!

[Timeless]

Installed the permanent fix to the engine cover latch catch issue I developed on #5637. Works well. Will be posting a thread about it soon. No more pulled out engine cover latch catch!
Interested in this. I recently removed the engine cover latch to replace the spring and left it our due to it being a PITA to reinstall. It never popped up enough when released even with new robust bump stops and proper clearance with the fascia.

[Bitsyncmaster]

Used BLACK MAGIC TITANIUM MATTE tire finish on my D today. Real easy, spray it on, wait 3 minuets wipe it off. Looks real good. Took off all the normal browning on tires. Will have to see how long it lasts.

[Timeless]

Used BLACK MAGIC TITANIUM MATTE tire finish on my D today. Real easy, spray it on, wait 3 minuets wipe it off. Looks real good. Took off all the normal browning on tires. Will have to see how long it lasts.
After 30 years I found a rubber care product I LOVE. Recently acquired a bottle of this and it is great. Holds up better than any other rubber/vinyl protectant I have used before. I never use tire specific shine products for the mess they cause, dirty wheels, etc...

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07CRNKGQB?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title&th=1

This is 2 weeks of driving:
72090

[Bitsyncmaster]

I have a bad wind noise on passenger side door when driving. Never had this before I removed and installed the fender after modifying the door latch bracket. I'm just guessing because the door is higher in the front, now the bottom seal is not working. They are real hard rubber anyway so I'm going to replace those.

The new lower door seal did not fix the wind noise. I think it's wind blowing on the side of the car rather then the wind caused by forward motion. I wonder if the new door handles need some sealing. I don't hear it on the drivers side. It sounds like wind getting inside the door. Now my doors don't have that plastic sheeting sealing of the inside of the doors. I may need that also. I'm going to tape up the passenger side door handle and see if that stops it.

[JohnZ]

Finally replaced radiator and cooling fans! It was long overdue, because my setup was original! Also we put in a new screw-in otterstat, as well as a bleeder kit for the rad! (I already had the self bleeder back in the engine)

I have to say that although we used a lift... It was a pain! I can't imagine doing that job on the ground! This is the main reason for that: the damn screws on the air dam(n) and on the rock screen...they were ALL seized! We ended up inventing new things to have these items stay on, such as bolts and inserted rivnuts! And it worked very well and everything is well secured now, but the toll was very high, since we lost something like three hours just to adapt things and deal with setbacks!

Of course we are very used to that, because at this point we never ever expect to do a straightforward session on the DeLorean, but still it was annoying and made us work from 9 AM to 9 PM... We took our time because there's no need to rush, especially with this particular aspect of the car.

12 hours including refill, fan test, bleeding, checking for leaks. I must say that in the end everything went well and I'm really satisfied with the new stuff from DeloreanGo! Now the fans feel powerful and less noisy, and also they seem to cool the car down much faster. Not that the system didn't work before, it did... but now I kind of feel "safer" :) I know you know what I mean.

We didn't really take a lot of pictures, we were busy as is... But at least a couple of those shows what a pair of goofballs we are! :D
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260329/ac02b1344903c3cae93d0fc8a3ca94d9.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260329/cfb62e3bc7d53165a46dd47527fd1cbb.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260329/926c3f33d6c918fe03673095ac23c1ca.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260329/3885ef60e70722e321a896428fbbe067.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260329/454ff59e5fba2a2d7b24e36313e1771b.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20260329/4348a7aa711e7ec55cd080c131df86b0.jpg

[Aaron Cake]

Interested in this. I recently removed the engine cover latch to replace the spring and left it our due to it being a PITA to reinstall. It never popped up enough when released even with new robust bump stops and proper clearance with the fascia.

Here's the thread: https://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?20442-Permanent-Fix-To-Engine-Cover-Latch-Catch-Pullout-on-5637

[Timeless]

That is great. I was hoping it was a solution for the latch and catch - not just the catch. I hate the latch design.

[Bitsyncmaster]

My battery has been no problem. Cranks and starts instantly. But in the past when I charge it at 14.50 volts it gets down below 100 ma charge current. Now it kind of jumps around 200 ma. So I pulled out the battery and see the date I bought it it was 4/13. So I think it's time to replace it.

[JBaker4981]

My battery has been no problem. Cranks and starts instantly. But in the past when I charge it at 14.50 volts it gets down below 100 ma charge current. Now it kind of jumps around 200 ma. So I pulled out the battery and see the date I bought it it was 4/13. So I think it's time to replace it.

13 years on a battery is truly insane