General What have you done to your DeLorean today? [Archive] - Page 20 - DMCTalk Forum

jwrayth

03-07-2015, 11:42 AM

How did your TABs (trailing arm bolts) look when you got them out?

I think those are them in the box in your second photo. Had those ever been replaced before or taken out and cleaned up? What's the history on your car in a nutshell?

Just curious as logging TAB failure/condition or non-failure is a little hobby of mine.

Those are actually a combination of the rear upper/lower link bolts and the hub to trailing arm bolts. The TABs are bagged elsewhere with the shims (labelled so I don't forget which side and how many!), and since they are Tobys TABs they are in great condition :)

For your records my car had Tobys TABs put on in 2009 before my ownership. According to the P/O the originals were replaced as a preventative measure then, but were indeed bent upon removal.

Rich

03-07-2015, 03:01 PM

Got into the driver’s door to chase some problems and perform upgrades involving the drop glass, the solenoid-lock and some door hardware. Photos added for items with asterisk.

a. Diagnosed and repaired a problem involving the door-unlock sequence. Using the passenger door lock, inside or out, would not always unlock the driver’s door lock like it’s designed to and it had been getting worse since last summer. Found that the lock solenoid, untouched since new, had become slightly loose. Following the Service Bulletin instructions (ST-10-8/81) I moved it slightly toward its center position fore-aft on the door, tightened the mounting screws, cleaned the contacts on the lock crank/switch and all is normal again. This repair also got my DMCH digital door lock module and remote keyfob to unlock both doors instead of only the passenger door.
b. Centered the drop glass on its carrier per Dave S's forum guidance. Thanks, Dave! After separating the glass from its carrier I confirmed that the glass was set incorrectly about 20mm too far forward in the glass carrier. The original sealant never moved, the glass and carrier were just set incorrectly when made. 3M Window Weld black urethane sealant is good for reattaching the carrier to the drop glass. Reference thread: LINK: Drop-Glass-To-Carrier-Attachment (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?3485-Drop-Glass-To-Carrier-Attachment)
c. Had noticed a leak through the top of the drop glass divider last time the car was in the rain on a road trip. As I worked with the door I could see that the divider channel was nearly detached from the glass. Pulled it off, cleaned the fixed glass and the channel, then used the WW sealant to reattach and seal it properly
d. Added the 3 plastic rub strips to the inside of the outer wipe seal for the drop glass. No sign that this early-VIN car had ever had them.
e. * For ease of access next time I’m in there: Swapped out the two original hex-head screws that secure the lower panel door pull to the door in favor of two hex socket (Allen-head) cap screws of identical size. Eliminates the frustration in repositioning those hard-to-reach hex-head screws with a 12-point socket and extension whenever I’m done with any lower door work. Yes, I’ve tried sticky tape and goo to hold the hex screws inside a socket. Now there’s no problem getting the Allen-head screw to zip right in.
f. * Restored the dried-out and stiff caulking that seals the clear plastic sheet to the inside of the door. Mine was almost useless after a few removals over the years. 3M Strip-Calk works great.

Everything works like new. Next time I have a reason to get inside of the passenger door it will be getting some of these checkups and mods, too.

Hex socket screw for lower trim/handle attach, old hex head screw next to it:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33267&d=1425755835

Setting the rear hex socket screw for lower trim/handle in place, also the new 3M Strip-Calk sealant for the plastic sheet can be seen near top:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33268&d=1425755847

Setting the front hex head socket screw in place:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33269&d=1425755858

3M Strip-Calk for the inner door shield plastic, box closed and open for reference - sold by NAPA and O'Reilly here:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33270&d=1425755874
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33271&d=1425755889

Jonathan

03-07-2015, 04:09 PM

Photos added for items with asterisk.

f. * Restored the dried-out and stiff caulking that seals the clear plastic sheet to the inside of the door. Mine was almost useless after a few removals over the years. 3M Strip-Calk works great.

3M Strip-Calk for the inner door shield plastic, box closed and open for reference - sold by NAPA and O'Reilly here:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33270&d=1425755874
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33271&d=1425755889

Rich, did your pics get attached? I can't see them yet when I reply with quote, it looks like it is trying to reference them, but they don't appear.

I'd like to see pics of the inner door shield plastic and specifically how it is supposed to go as I have replacement ones for my car and don't know how they are meant to be installed. Thanks.

Rich

03-07-2015, 08:16 PM

Revised the previous post - permissions for images weren't right. Jonathan, thx for asking. You may not see as much detail of the plastic seal sheet as you like but that's all I have of it.

Got into the driver’s door to chase some problems and perform upgrades involving the drop glass, the solenoid-lock and some door hardware. Photos added for items with asterisk.

a. Diagnosed and repaired a problem involving the door-unlock sequence. Using the passenger door lock, inside or out, would not always unlock the driver’s door lock like it’s designed to and it had been getting worse since last summer. Found that the lock solenoid, untouched since new, had become slightly loose. Following the Service Bulletin instructions (ST-10-8/81) I moved it slightly toward its center position fore-aft on the door, tightened the mounting screws, cleaned the contacts on the lock crank/switch and all is normal again. This repair also got my DMCH digital door lock module and remote keyfob to unlock both doors instead of only the passenger door.
b. Centered the drop glass on its carrier per Dave S's forum guidance. Thanks, Dave! After separating the glass from its carrier I confirmed that the glass was set incorrectly about 20mm too far forward in the glass carrier. The original sealant never moved, the glass and carrier were just set incorrectly when made. 3M Window Weld black urethane sealant is good for reattaching the carrier to the drop glass. Reference thread: LINK: Drop-Glass-To-Carrier-Attachment
c. Had noticed a leak through the top of the drop glass divider last time the car was in the rain on a road trip. As I worked with the door I could see that the divider channel was nearly detached from the glass. Pulled it off, cleaned the fixed glass and the channel, then used the WW sealant to reattach and seal it properly
d. Added the 3 plastic rub strips to the inside of the outer wipe seal for the drop glass. No sign that this early-VIN car had ever had them.
e. * For ease of access next time I’m in there: Swapped out the two original hex-head screws that secure the lower panel door pull to the door in favor of two hex socket (Allen-head) cap screws of identical size. Eliminates the frustration in repositioning those hard-to-reach hex-head screws with a 12-point socket and extension whenever I’m done with any lower door work. Yes, I’ve tried sticky tape and goo to hold the hex screws inside a socket. Now there’s no problem getting the Allen-head screw to zip right in.
f. * Restored the dried-out and stiff caulking that seals the clear plastic sheet to the inside of the door. Mine was almost useless after a few removals over the years. 3M Strip-Calk works great.

Everything works like new. Next time I have a reason to get inside of the passenger door it will be getting some of these checkups and mods, too.

Hex socket screw for lower trim/handle attach, old hex head screw next to it:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33267&d=1425755835
33290

Setting the rear hex socket screw for lower trim/handle in place, also the new 3M Strip-Calk sealant for the plastic sheet can be seen near top:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33268&d=1425755847
33291

Setting the front hex head socket screw in place:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33269&d=1425755858
33292

3M Strip-Calk for the inner door shield plastic, box closed and open for reference - sold by NAPA and O'Reilly here:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33270&d=1425755874
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33271&d=1425755889
33293
33294

DMC5180

03-07-2015, 10:45 PM

Rich

The 3M strip caulk is the same stuff that is used to seal up the seams in the HVAC housing under the dash If for some reason you ever have to do an Evaporator Replacement.

robvanderveer

03-08-2015, 11:41 AM

Today I replaced missing the throttle link safety clips (http://store.delorean.com/p-6410-safety-clip.aspx) with 2 clips I made from a paperclip. Best saved $1.98 ever!

Come to think of it, I may have a few laying about as i'm sure i replaced them with the door struts years ago. No idea about the size though.

Farrar

03-08-2015, 07:52 PM

Resonators arrived today. By the end of the week I will have everything I need to construct the new exhaust. :partyhat:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33296&stc=1

Trstno1

03-08-2015, 09:16 PM

Resonators arrived today. By the end of the week I will have everything I need to construct the new exhaust. :partyhat:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33296&stc=1

Sweet! Let us know how everything turns out.

DavidProehl

03-08-2015, 10:19 PM

Resonators arrived today. By the end of the week I will have everything I need to construct the new exhaust. :partyhat:

Oooh! Shiny!

Today I installed a new fuel pump I had sitting in a box for about 6 years. My pump was making scary noises and sputtering when going up hills today. Sure hope that fixes the problem. Did the ol' spring in the fuel pickup hose trick a few years back as well. If this problem surfaces again I'll probably have to drop the cash on the new all-in-one unit. :(

Lenny

03-09-2015, 01:58 PM

Loaded the DeLorean on the back of flat bed tow truck headed to DMC Florida to find out why it won't start. Hasn't run since November.

Should have added. I upgraded my AAA to Premier and get one 200 mile tow a year for only 50 dollars a year. I'm 150 miles away so I could get one tow a year for only 50 bucks

Farrar

03-09-2015, 02:05 PM

Good luck, Lenny! :)

Farrar

03-10-2015, 07:20 PM

Parts keep arriving. Today, two of these showed up...

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33319&stc=1

The only thing I am missing are the step-up transitions, which are lost in the mail somewhere. And I just finished midterm exams and thought I'd have some time this weekend... *sigh*

DMC5180

03-14-2015, 09:32 PM

It's was so nice to go out in the garage and fire up the D for first time this year after a 4 1/2 month slumber. Tomorrow I'll be taking it out for the first drive and it's still technically WINTER even though the temp will be near 60 or better. This may be the earliest start to the driving season I can remember. Last year we still had 2 feet of snow on the ground at this time.

AugustneverEnds

03-14-2015, 10:48 PM

Removed the auto transmission governor and cleaned it before it gets rebuilt. Continued scrubbing the undercarriage

DMCMW Dave

03-14-2015, 10:50 PM

Delorean Industries

03-14-2015, 10:51 PM

Rained two days straight here. Roads are clear!

jawn101

03-14-2015, 11:03 PM

Farrar

03-14-2015, 11:11 PM

Sent a couple of exhaust parts out to have them welded. Got a busy calendar for the next two weeks, but hoping to make some progress so that when they come back in the mail I can at least start my build.

SS Spoiler

03-14-2015, 11:26 PM

Saw in our local paper a note of a St Pats parade through downtown Kalispell.
Sent in our forms, going to pick up material for Kate to sew up some Irish flags. Let you know
if we win anything. Charged up the battery and took'er for a run to town, no probs.

Spittybug

03-15-2015, 11:28 AM

Farrar, are you going with the flexi hose? I did but quickly went to a welded 180. Here's a couple of pics. I went to my local toothless Meineke guy who fabricated the bends. The system is tight, no clamps all over the place, clears the axles and the lower link just fine and are nice, smooth flow.

Sent a couple of exhaust parts out to have them welded. Got a busy calendar for the next two weeks, but hoping to make some progress so that when they come back in the mail I can at least start my build.

DMC5180

03-15-2015, 12:14 PM

Yeah - it's really clear and nice here too, but I'm still waiting for the first heavy rainstorm as there are still clouds of salt dust on the roads.

I washed my new daily driver before my long drive home last Thursday. When I went out the next morning the car still looked as if I just pulled out of the car wash. So I'm not to worried about going for a short jaunt. If the roads were wet with liquified salt residue, I would not be taking it out.

DavidProehl

03-15-2015, 12:26 PM

Had a tech day in Lodi! We got a lot done...

- David P got new tie rod ends, a new alternator, and a new angle drive cable bracket (as well as a brake bleed)
- Stephen P got new stainless brake hoses and a brake bleed
- I got a clutch and brake fluid flush and bleed
- Clint got his car lovingly hand cleaned with stainless polish
- David S got a chance to drive his Toyota and supervise :)

I also crossed 58,000 miles today. 130 miles round trip to the tech day with zero problems (other than the fuel smell I mentioned in another thread)

Thanks for the assistance Jon! It was a great day! I'm in process on making a timelapse video of the day, hoping to have it done tonight, but for sure no later than tomorrow. Currently waiting on my PC to chunk through all the files. Here is a teaser image, one of the 5,200 photos taken:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33354&stc=1

Farrar

03-15-2015, 12:36 PM

Farrar, are you going with the flexi hose? I did but quickly went to a welded 180.

My plan is essentially the same. I will use the flex tubing for a "mock up," mostly for expediency. Using that, I can make sure everything fits and it sounds like I want it to. If I am satisfied, I can then drive it to a shop where I can have them weld everything and replace the flex tubing with mandrel bends. It would be a piece of cake for any shop to take it from there.

DavidProehl

03-15-2015, 04:19 PM

Thanks for the assistance Jon! It was a great day! I'm in process on making a timelapse video of the day, hoping to have it done tonight, but for sure no later than tomorrow. Currently waiting on my PC to chunk through all the files.

Video came together quicker than I thought...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQTpYDVnGhc

DMC5180

03-15-2015, 04:27 PM

That was awesome. It makes me yearn for good old days at The Swingles prior to Dave going pro. 😢

jawn101

03-15-2015, 04:38 PM

Video came together quicker than I thought...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CQTpYDVnGhc

Too cool. You were right, all our attempts to capture our foolishness were lost in the 5 second intervals :) Also, I'm really glad there was no audio.

Fun day!

DMC5180

03-15-2015, 09:01 PM

I'm happy to report my first successful 25 mile drive of the season, despite narrowly missing a deer by 10 feet crossing my path. Just your typical daily occurrence in south central Wisconsin.

Jonathan

03-16-2015, 06:38 PM

Too cool. You were right, all our attempts to capture our foolishness were lost in the 5 second intervals :) Also, I'm really glad there was no audio.

Fun day!

Man, talk about can't wait for Spring!! Great vid David, looked like a ton of fun!

Who's who in that vid?

DavidProehl

03-16-2015, 07:45 PM

Man, talk about can't wait for Spring!! Great vid David, looked like a ton of fun!

Who's who in that vid?

Thanks Jonathan! I don't think there is a great picture of all of us looking at the camera, so this will have to do, with DMCTalk usernames:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33381&stc=1

jackb

03-17-2015, 08:00 PM

Drove my D to work the other day, and it broke down on the way home. Humiliating.
It just died. Would crank, but not turn over. I got a ride home and brought a gas can hoping it was a simple as my fuel level sender indicating high and I just ran out of gas. (I was just over 200 miles on the current tank of gas). Since I'm in the process of moving, all my tools/parts/manuals that I normally keep in the car to troubleshoot/repair on the side of the road were not in the car DOH! AAA towed me home.

After the tow truck left me in the driveway, I tried starting it again, it started and died and instant later. I got out and saw fresh fuel on the ground. OK, clearly a leak. I removed the panel in the bonnet over the fuel pump, started it again, it stayed running, and I saw this:
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/IMG_3134.jpg

Woah! I've changed those lines about 5 years ago! Were they chaffing? Nope. Dry rotted? Nope. No visible reason, and I know I specifically said I needed fuel line when I picked it up at Advance at the time. I got some fresh line at Oreillys (made sure it is labeled for fuel) and replaced both lines.
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/IMG_3157.jpg

Bitsyncmaster

03-17-2015, 08:21 PM

jawn101

03-17-2015, 08:27 PM

jawn101

03-17-2015, 08:28 PM

LOL, I love that you did this. Thanks David :)

Actually, can you do one with all of our cars in the shot and VIN #s too? That would be neat. You know, since you're bored.

DMC5180

03-17-2015, 08:30 PM

Yeah, that hose works great for your lawn mower. Not high pressure injection. You must ask specifically for fuel injection hose. SAE 30 R9 type

DavidProehl

03-17-2015, 10:10 PM

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/IMG_3134.jpg

That is scary! At least it wasn't close to anything generating heat or a spark.

Actually, can you do one with all of our cars in the shot and VIN #s too? That would be neat. You know, since you're bored.

Hardy, har, har... For the record, I'm quite busy. Take right now for instance, I have some paint that I need to watch dry.

Farrar

03-18-2015, 08:13 PM

I pushed mine out of the garage today, so that it could get some fresh air and sunlight.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33407&stc=1

Actually, that's a lie. The real reason was because I needed to change the alternator on my PT Cruiser. :P

Jonathan

03-18-2015, 08:56 PM

Thanks Jonathan! I don't think there is a great picture of all of us looking at the camera, so this will have to do, with DMCTalk usernames:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33381&stc=1

LOL, I love that you did this. Thanks David :)

Cool David. Looked like a great day. And loved the time advance lunch break images too! Man, you put together some fun videos :)

jackb

03-18-2015, 10:13 PM

Yeah, that hose works great for your lawn mower. Not high pressure injection. You must ask specifically for fuel injection hose. SAE 30 R9 type

I made sure to specify that this time, but the hose I got is not labeled SAE 30 R9.

It says:
Gates Fuel Injection Hose 5/16 inch (7.9mm) 225 PSI WP Barricade Greenshi...
(Multi-fuel and Bio-fuel compatible) CARB No Q-09-019A 4219BF EPA...

http://www.gates.com/products/industrial/industrial-hose/industrial-hose/marine/marine-master-fuel-line-225-barricade

I figured saying fuel compatible and the PSI rating (it has braiding in between the two layers of rubber) was sufficient. Is this another problem waiting to happen with the hose I replaced it with since it does not say specifically R9?

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/hose.jpg

OverlandMan

03-18-2015, 10:19 PM

Put gas in it for the first time since rebuilding the fuel system. Moment of truth around the corner!

DMC5180

03-18-2015, 11:14 PM

I made sure to specify that this time, but the hose I got is not labeled SAE 30 R9.

It says:
Gates Fuel Injection Hose 5/16 inch (7.9mm) 225 PSI WP Barricade Greenshi...
(Multi-fuel and Bio-fuel compatible) CARB No Q-09-019A 4219BF EPA...

http://www.gates.com/products/industrial/industrial-hose/industrial-hose/marine/marine-master-fuel-line-225-barricade

I figured saying fuel compatible and the PSI rating (it has braiding in between the two layers of rubber) was sufficient. Is this another problem waiting to happen with the hose I replaced it with since it does not say specifically R9?

http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/hose.jpg

Based on the specs on the gates site it should do the job for you.

This is the info for the R9 hose

http://www.gates.com/oreilly/tech_tips/PermeationResistantFuelLineHose.pdf

Bitsyncmaster

03-19-2015, 04:23 AM

Based on the specs on the gates site it should do the job for you.

This is the info for the R9 hose

http://www.gates.com/oreilly/tech_tips/PermeationResistantFuelLineHose.pdf

I think the main point with fuel hose is the stated WP (working pressure). I did see some info that R6 hose had a burst pressure of 175 PSI which would make you think it's fine for us but Jack found otherwise.

Jonathan

03-19-2015, 07:51 AM

Put gas in it for the first time since rebuilding the fuel system. Moment of truth around the corner!

Good luck!!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSny6D1LaII

Farrar

03-21-2015, 01:11 PM

Put the sun shade up.

Farrar

03-21-2015, 04:38 PM

Pushed it back in the garage.

refugeefromcalif

03-21-2015, 04:57 PM

I drove mine to the store. (I needed toilet paper)...
It's now back under cover due to the rain coming in, again! :mad2:

George

Jonathan

03-21-2015, 05:27 PM

I drove mine to the store. (I needed toilet paper)...
It's now back under cover due to the rain coming in, again! :mad2:

George

That could make for a real "badday" (sic)...

Lenny

03-21-2015, 07:05 PM

Patrick C

03-21-2015, 07:40 PM

novadmc

03-21-2015, 07:43 PM

Today drove it for an hour (well, 2 30 min trips) with no issues. ran like a champ.

earlier this week, i needed to recharge the battery as it was sitting at 11.75v from sitting for a few weeks and only going on short drives.
33423

took a lot longer to charge than i thought it would but once it was finally charged, the car ran great and the voltage needle never dipped below 13v while driving. even while idling at lights with the blinker on (where before it was starting to dip into the 11-10v range)

also found a 4" SnapOn Awl stuck under the main wire harness in the fuse/relay compartment. I'm fairly sure it's been there since 2000 when the car was getting reconditioned at Delorean One just before the PO bought it. Think Ed might want it back? :)

DMC5180

03-21-2015, 08:42 PM

I picked my car up today from DMC FL at the open house. It was the first time I've driven it since November. It looks like I'll have a car at Celebration. I need to put some Freon in it the air was a little warm.

Doh, I'm surprised you didn't have them check that while it was there. A/C is the most important thing to have working when living in Florida. Are you running R12 or R134a?

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Michael Babb

03-21-2015, 09:43 PM

before:
https://lh4.googleusercontent.com/-3n--HbFjRGE/VQ3iMZ2hfTI/AAAAAAAAawM/-wUqGxl6G98/w1143-h857-no/IMG_20150321_152653.jpg

after:
https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-XSnVSjjs6AA/VQ3oB1V_rLI/AAAAAAAAaw4/bOqZYVHLje4/w1143-h857-no/IMG_20150321_155151.jpg

before and after:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-SB1kYMfXFnM/VQ4XNI1qhsI/AAAAAAAAaxk/d3hF1NEMv64/w1143-h857-no/IMG_20150321_191238.jpg

test fit:
https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-OZ22VGcfFI4/VQ4Xs6V5vVI/AAAAAAAAayM/geUkAK6Pjco/w1143-h857-no/IMG_20150321_191502.jpg

Rich_NYS

03-21-2015, 11:06 PM

Valve adjustment on 10372...sounds nice!

Lenny

03-23-2015, 12:52 PM

What ended up being the problem with it not starting?

RPM relay

OverlandMan

03-23-2015, 01:33 PM

Good luck!!!!

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RSny6D1LaII

:thumbup:

Tried cranking it a couple of times yesterday to no avail. Going to prime it with the RPM relay jumper again to make sure I'm getting fresh gas back there first. No major concerns, yet.

Freaky Beetle

03-31-2015, 01:47 PM

Today: Aftermarket wheels ordered and DMC Fuel Pump/Sender Combo delivered. Excited to get 2812 back on the road!

John U

03-31-2015, 01:51 PM

Found out (the hard way) that brake cleaner dissolves the plastic part of the horn!

JohnZ

04-01-2015, 10:46 AM

- Adjusted / aimed my headlights (oddly he said that they were heavily aiming downward)

- Completed my parcel shelf refurb / grille thing!

336703367133672

:)

DavidProehl

04-01-2015, 05:11 PM

I took this:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33676&stc=1

...and made this:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33677&stc=1

...to mount here:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33678&stc=1

Now I just need to wire it. This will save me from removing my parcel shelf to adjust the sub level.

John U

04-02-2015, 11:57 AM

After owning a set of Tobys fans for about three years, I finally finished installing them. Man they Blow!

vps3922

04-02-2015, 02:12 PM

- Adjusted / aimed my headlights (oddly he said that they were heavily aiming downward)

- Completed my parcel shelf refurb / grille thing!

336703367133672

:)

That looks pretty cool. Great idea!

Delorean3610

04-02-2015, 02:38 PM

Oil change and replaced oil filter.

Wiped down the body with stainless polish.

Any suggestions for cleaning the engine bay without damaging the fiberglass? No pressure washing.

bfloyd

04-02-2015, 02:44 PM

Finally found a local source here in town for SEM Trim Black. Last night I got all of the wiring harness removed, engine covered, and rear deck masked off. Plan on painting the engine bay this weekend if the weather holds out.

33684

Kerichbe

04-03-2015, 04:07 PM

Took apart my blower motor and cleaned and greased it. Ah blissfully silent now, and I actually think it pushes more air!

Michael Babb

04-04-2015, 08:52 AM

Bought some parts for the car (the excuse), and visited Tony and the team at DeLorean Motor Company Florida....and paid homage to Proto 1 (the real reason for the visit) with my daughter:
33730
33731

AugustneverEnds

04-04-2015, 09:04 AM

Installed my repaired governor computer, refilled the transmission. Success!! Shifts up and down smoothly. Thanks to DMCMW and DPI for their silicone pan gasket.

One weird little drama did happen though, the car didn't start in Park the first time I tried it. Just made a clicking noise from the relay compartment, no starter turning. I was ready to throw a fit, calmed down enough to think and moved the shifter to Neutral and bam! it started right up. I drove the car a few miles to test the governor and started the car several times more and it starts perfectly normally in Park. Bizarre :what_the: I'll just chalk it up to DeLoreanitis

Ryan S.

04-04-2015, 10:00 AM

Nicely done!!

I took this:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33676&stc=1

...and made this:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33677&stc=1

...to mount here:
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33678&stc=1

Now I just need to wire it. This will save me from removing my parcel shelf to adjust the sub level.

Kukem

04-04-2015, 10:10 AM

- Completed my parcel shelf refurb / grille thing! :)

JohnZ, that is an awesome idea. I was trying to figure something else out that involved a PC fan and vent, but that seems way simpler and I like the look of it a lot better. Kudos to you.

Bitsyncmaster

04-04-2015, 10:39 AM

- Adjusted / aimed my headlights (oddly he said that they were heavily aiming downward)

- Completed my parcel shelf refurb / grille thing!

336703367133672

:)

Looks like a good idea and nice work. But your relay clicking if the AC is cycling my drive you nuts.

clenet

04-04-2015, 08:27 PM

Today I installed my new stainless front license plate bracket. What a nice fit and very easy to install. So much better then drilling into the front of the car and can be removed with no trace of it being there.

jackb

04-04-2015, 09:56 PM

Changed the oil/filter, and flushed the brake and clutch fluid.
Then I put it in a storage unit for the next 70 years, 2 months, and 13 days.
Astounding.

(Not really, just for the next 2 years while I'm stationed in Korea. A buddy is going to look after it and move it to keep the tires round and stuff)
http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c348/kaaooga3/dmc/IMG_3359.jpg

SS Spoiler

04-04-2015, 09:59 PM

Block it off the frame and mouse proof it....

DMC5180

04-05-2015, 08:56 AM

jackb

04-05-2015, 11:53 PM

Block it off the frame and mouse proof it....
A friend is going to visit it regularly and move it around to keep it fresh and prevent flat spots.

Interesting plate "serious shit" I wonder how many people get it?
When I got it, I thought everyone would for sure, but a surprising amount of people look at it and just scratch their heads...

mburshtain

04-06-2015, 01:23 AM

Joined the coffee and cars event at Blackhawk. http://tapatalk.imageshack.com/v2/15/04/05/24861c366466a4900629f1670ec91bb5.jpg

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

John U

04-06-2015, 10:28 AM

Cleaned the wheel wells with some help from my little friend

FABombjoy

04-07-2015, 11:02 AM

I finally got that damn blinker / wiper / buzzer panel back where it belongs!

Also installed LED strips for footwell lighting.

Farrar

04-07-2015, 12:13 PM

I finally got that damn blinker / wiper / buzzer panel back where it belongs!
:cheers:

Citizen

04-07-2015, 07:54 PM

DMC5180

04-07-2015, 08:51 PM

I finally replaced my clutch master cylinder, bled the line, and it tested good. But now the cooling fans start immediately and stay on. Go figure. (On any other car, I would have thought this strange, but hey, it's a DeLorean...and I can say that, I own one...but I digress).

A quick search on Talk indicates I should replace the otterstat. I guess that will be my next post in this thread.

Thomas

...

Make sure your A/C is off and/or the otterstat isn't by-passed. Of coarse if the otterstat is connected then you can unplug it to confirm the it is stuck ON. Assuming the engine is cold.

DavidProehl

04-08-2015, 09:26 PM

Made a cheesy video for a co-worker's 30th work anniversary party that is tomorrow. They are doing a BTTF theme for the party and asked me to use my "cool car" to make an intro video for the photo slide show. Please forgive the bad acting and poor special effects.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y044cmisq28

spedlot

04-08-2015, 10:36 PM

Awesome video. Great job with it.

Ryan S.

04-08-2015, 10:56 PM

David
That was just too funny. Outstanding job on sound and special effects.
And good acting but don't quit your day job, yet ;)
and when are you going to release part 2?

ccurzio

04-09-2015, 09:04 AM

I like how the party was literally the ONLY THING ON THE CALENDAR and you STILL managed to forget. :)

Lenny

04-09-2015, 09:41 AM

I was laughing and I think that was the point!!!

Good Job

DavidProehl

04-09-2015, 10:36 AM

Thanks everyone! Yes, it was definitely intended to be funny/over the top. Hopefully it goes over well today.

DMC5180

04-09-2015, 02:35 PM

That was great David?

Domi

04-09-2015, 02:59 PM

Funny video, congrats!

DavidProehl

04-09-2015, 03:26 PM

Video went over well this afternoon. Getting a lot of emails now on it from people at work. It is apparently circulating around the office. There is a chance they may play it at our next department quarterly meeting before HR announces anniversaries depending on available time and the meeting schedule. Kind of fun to be a celebrity for a day at work because of this :)

Tillsy

04-10-2015, 09:41 AM

Doing some routine checks before a big trip tomorrow and out of the blue *BANG, the louvre suddenly slams shut. Check it out and yep, the struts are shot. No warning signs at all just dead.

chris williams

04-10-2015, 11:58 AM

Fitted a SpecialT auto new style fuel pump (gone for this as my sender unit is fine) all works fine and I have a tank that I can fill to the top without leaking for the first time in a long time.......
Chris

Lenny

04-10-2015, 04:28 PM

Cleaned it up and drove to Disney for the Celebration Exotic Car Show tomorrow.

leroylem

04-10-2015, 05:12 PM

Fixed an AC leak, vac system, added 2.5 lbs. R-12 from my ancient 50 pound R-12 cylinder , drove it---temp at left door vent 38*--cool/ready for 100 degree days in Texas soon.

DMC5180

04-10-2015, 06:32 PM

Fixed an AC leak, vac system, added 2.5 lbs. R-12 from my ancient 50 pound R-12 cylinder , drove it---temp at left door vent 38*--cool/ready for 100 degree days in Texas soon.

2.5 lbs of R12 is a bit much. The official spec is 2.25 lbs. As long as it works okay you can probably get away with it.

leroylem

04-11-2015, 11:11 AM

My DMC workshop manual---heat & AC section--N:07:01 states "Total R-12 charge---2.5 lbs.

Leroy 2126

Chris 16409

04-11-2015, 11:59 AM

I believe there was a service bulletin that updated the specification to 2.25 pounds.

DMC5180

04-11-2015, 03:33 PM

My DMC workshop manual---heat & AC section--N:07:01 states "Total R-12 charge---2.5 lbs.

Leroy 2126 Yeah I've found at least 3 different pages in the shop manual the says 2.5 lbs. but at the same time I know I've seen it stated 2.75 lbs some place. (besides the the service bulletin reference)

Bulletin ST-29 11/81

"The Freon Charge has changed to 2.2 lbs from the previous 2.75 lbs. the new specification was introduced with VIN 4080"

"If knocking noises are observed during starting with the air conditioning ON, the new freon specification should be used"

Michael Babb

04-11-2015, 08:32 PM

Finished installing all main interior components to convert my car from black to a black and gray two-tone interior. Panoramic photo below, additional pics at http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11410-black-for-gray-center-console-trade&p=170590#post170590

https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-RIQJVGgvhs0/VSm4udwf-kI/AAAAAAAAebM/ZSt0fkYDCNk/w1597-h605-no/PANO_20150411_165140.jpg

DMCMW Dave

04-11-2015, 11:58 PM

Finished installing all main interior components to convert my car from black to a black and gray two-tone interior.
]

I don't think I've ever seen gauge needles quite that red.

Michael Babb

04-12-2015, 09:59 AM

I don't think I've ever seen gauge needles quite that red.
Yeah, they are really more of an orange in real life, but sure why they came out red in that picture. This shows the color a bit better:
https://lh5.googleusercontent.com/-I2RPyzgESaY/VSp4MktYxXI/AAAAAAAAebs/zWFk3FTb8hg/w1143-h857-no/IMG_20150412_075020.jpg

Domi

04-12-2015, 11:16 AM

Really good job :thumbup:

JohnZ

04-12-2015, 01:43 PM

JohnZ, that is an awesome idea. I was trying to figure something else out that involved a PC fan and vent, but that seems way simpler and I like the look of it a lot better. Kudos to you.

Thanks man! This is a fast way I think to feel with the hand above the grille if something is going wrong AKA superHOT!

:)

DMCMW Dave

04-12-2015, 04:47 PM

Had my smallest assistants wash the company cars, and got my own D out for the first time.

33846

33847

33845

refugeefromcalif

04-12-2015, 05:01 PM

Had my smallest assistants wash the company cars, and got my own D out for the first time.

33846

So Nice Dave!
Where did you get the letters that spell DeLorean for the back of your van? I'd love to do that also.

George

DMCMW Dave

04-12-2015, 05:15 PM

33846

So Nice Dave!
Where did you get the letters that spell DeLorean for the back of your van? I'd love to do that also.

George

DeLorean Part Number 108725

http://store.delorean.com/p-9592-hood-emblem.aspx

Trstno1

04-14-2015, 01:11 PM

I was finally able to take the car out on it's maiden voyage!!

The good: it was a beautiful sunny spring day, and I was able to drive 19 miles with zero issues. More than a few folks were caught rubbernecking, but nobody actually went out of their way to talk to me. :yesss:

The bad: on the 20th mile, I started getting a slight buzzing noise with a slight sound of stressed circulating liquid that seemed to be coming from behind the glovebox up front. It almost sounded like a belt circulation over a bad pulley. I pulled over to investigate. My temp was barely past 150, so it wasn't overheating. I turned all fans, heater, and stereo off, but the sound remained. I popped the engine cover and to my surprise the noise was not coming from there. Next, I popped the hood and realized the noise appeared to be coming from behind the glovebox. I place my ear to the tub under the hood and behind where the glovebox would be and heard a slight buzzing and the weird bad circulation sound. Not knowing what it was, I decided to immediately take the car home. Unfortunately it started missing on acceleration in any gear like I was having a spark or fuel issue. I limped it home and parked it with the intention of troubleshooting the issue the next day. The next day I started it up and not only was the sound was gone, I drove it around the neighborhood and it wasn't missing at all. What the heck? I'm guessing this problem may only manifest it's ugly head when the car is hot. I wonder if I have a fuel pump on the way out, as that's the only thing that is up front that would fit both the sounds and the symptoms I was having. Anyone have any guesses or things I may be able to check to narrow it down?

All in all it was a great experience!! It was also cool to think that the car moved more on its own power in one day than it had in the last 10 years by the PO!!

33851

Thanks!

ccurzio

04-14-2015, 01:31 PM

I was finally able to take the car out on it's maiden voyage!!

Congratulations. The bad thing about getting a DeLorean is that you can only drive it for the first time once. :)

As for "The Bad," my internet diagnosis is your fuel pump. A hundred times, the fuel pump. If you pull your spare tire, there's a panel at the back of the tire storage area and your fuel pump/sender are accessible right behind that panel. Everything is right where you heard it. A buzzing fuel pump is very common when it's overheating.

DavidProehl

04-14-2015, 02:11 PM

As for "The Bad," my internet diagnosis is your fuel pump.

+1 I had the same buzz on a dying fuel pump. Also check your fuel pick up hose. What happens if they aren't re-enforced with a spring running through them is that they will collapse thus starving the fuel pump, making it work harder to get fuel. That can lead to the buzz as well.

Trstno1

04-14-2015, 02:52 PM

+1 I had the same buzz on a dying fuel pump. Also check your fuel pick up hose. What happens if they aren't re-enforced with a spring running through them is that they will collapse thus starving the fuel pump, making it work harder to get fuel. That can lead to the buzz as well.

Thanks for the heads up guys. Yeah, I sorta figured it was the fuel pump. I pulled out the pump, to take a look at it. The pump, all fittings and even the cleanliness of the tank all look good, but there was no spring in the pickup hose. Do you guys know what size spring I can put in the hose in order to keep it from collapsing? Do I just take the hose to the hardware store and find one that firmly fits? Is there any spring material that I should stay away from in order to minimize corrosion?

DavidProehl

04-14-2015, 03:05 PM

Screen door spring is what I used, same as mentioned here: http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?1410-Pick-Up-Hose&p=16552&viewfull=1#post16552

You still may want to consider replacing the whole pump with the new DMCH replacement unit (http://store.delorean.com/p-10569-fuel-pumpsender-module.aspx). I think I'll do that eventually, the $419 price tag has been delaying my jump to it thus far, but it resolves all these problems.

Trstno1

04-14-2015, 03:26 PM

Jonathan

04-15-2015, 08:25 AM

Thanks for the heads up guys. Yeah, I sorta figured it was the fuel pump. I pulled out the pump, to take a look at it. The pump, all fittings and even the cleanliness of the tank all look good, but there was no spring in the pickup hose. Do you guys know what size spring I can put in the hose in order to keep it from collapsing? Do I just take the hose to the hardware store and find one that firmly fits? Is there any spring material that I should stay away from in order to minimize corrosion?

Another thing to try is how the pump is positioned and thus the fuel pick-up hose connected to the bottom of it. The tanks and access holes are not terribly symmetrical and you can end up pinching the hose somewhat on the bottom of the tank by a combination of the pump pushed down right to the limit and which direction the bottom hose is pointed as it turns to go to the inlet filter/tuna can. You can try rotating it a small amount from above in an attempt to find a sweet spot where the hose isn't resting against anything or the side/bottom of the tank.

That pushing on the hose gets worse when the car gets hot, which may or may not have happened in just 19 miles. The coolant lines returning to the rear of the car from the radiator go along the fuel tank and heat the fuel up unfortunately. The hoses are soft/malleable enough that it ends up trying to suck fuel through that pick-up hose like you would if you sucked too hard on a straw sipping a milkshake and the straw collapsed. There are some solutions for you on this that don't require you to buy new parts if you can position your existing ones adequately.

Mark D

04-15-2015, 10:50 AM

Finally got mine out for spring the other day. Time to start a few projects that got put on the back burner last year :wrenchin:

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33867&d=1429108767

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33868&d=1429108767

I've also got to finish working on the the storage garage. It needs another coat of paint on the inside and a bunch of trim on the outside. This winter I didn't have any critters get in there so my fall project to seal it up seems to have worked well.

OverlandMan

04-15-2015, 12:06 PM

Thanks for the info!

+1

I'm going to install one of these springs in my pickup line before I button everything back up 100%. Any concern about rust or corrosion from the spring breaking down over time? I assume most screen door springs are stainless or galvanized and thus treated for the elements. I'm just not sure how gasoline reacts to them over time. Just curious.

Trstno1

04-15-2015, 01:07 PM

+1

I'm going to install one of these springs in my pickup line before I button everything back up 100%. Any concern about rust or corrosion from the spring breaking down over time? I assume most screen door springs are stainless or galvanized and thus treated for the elements. I'm just not sure how gasoline reacts to them over time. Just curious.

+1

Good question!

Kukem

04-15-2015, 05:25 PM

Got to doing some work with the car over the last 2 evenings. Installed my LED tail light boards and flasher (without breaking anything thankfully), a new dome light, two new LED window switches, and put the dash and binnacle back together after inspecting the lights in the dash after my signal lights stopped working. Did a fuel system inspection and changed the air filter as well. Discovered a broken wire in the dome light fixture wires so I will have to get a new spade connector and fix that. Also had my reverse lights not working (again), but that has solved itself. Go figure. Still got brakes, fuel filter, oil change and to install a few more lights that aren't working very well as well as a fuse box replacement that should be done sooner, rater than later.

Got a question though: My passenger seat does not lock into place if you adjust the sliding seat position. I was going to take the seat out but I have no idea what I might be looking for. Anybody have that problem before? I was thinking it may be a stripped track?

DMC5180

04-16-2015, 11:23 AM

+1

Good question!

Generally speaking, most springs are zinc plated and spring steel is resistant to corrosion. As long as you keep water out of the tank you shouldn't have anything to worry about. I've had a spring in my pickup hose more than 15 years now. Btw it is not the cure all end all fix. I did some very slow parade driving a few years ago with a half tank of fuel. The HOT fuel still made for a very loud fuel pump vibrations emanating from the center console area. Otherwise I've experienced no adverse affects from the spring installation. As you get more time behind the wheel, you become quite familiar with the quirks it has and realize its normal for the Delorean.

OverlandMan

04-17-2015, 09:23 AM

Generally speaking, most springs are zinc plated and spring steel is resistant to corrosion. As long as you keep water out of the tank you shouldn't have anything to worry about. I've had a spring in my pickup hose more than 15 years now. Btw it is not the cure all end all fix. I did some very slow parade driving a few years ago with a half tank of fuel. The HOT fuel still made for a very loud fuel pump vibrations emanating from the center console area. Otherwise I've experienced no adverse affects from the spring installation. As you get more time behind the wheel, you become quite familiar with the quirks it has and realize its normal for the Delorean.

Good info here. Thanks for posting this Dennis.

jwrayth

04-17-2015, 11:47 AM

Got the clutch slave off the car from underneath. Cut my knuckles doing it (thanks, cross-over pipe!), but the bugger is out. That's the last "bad" part for my current projects, so I can finally focus just on rebuilding/replacing and putting the car back together for the end of May :)

jrandle

04-18-2015, 12:27 AM

Today, new front and rear speakers, button on interior for door poppers, USB/AUX inputs mounted, door linkage correction, door seal removal and ground off old glue for smooth mounting surface. In the past week, door lock solenoids and wiring, door poppers installed in doors, interior removed for cleaning/ease of work, replaced D4 on door lock module. Tomorrow, wiring of controller for door poppers, wiring of door popper button, clean door lock wipers, lock and latch adjustment, new fan speed switch, interior LEDs including footwell lights, then clean and reassemble. I'm tired, very very tired.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Szabi

04-18-2015, 09:22 AM

Phew, tank cleaning is done... That`s a real gynaecological work :)
Not much dirt, mostly small particles from the oxidized vent tube. So that I can reach the end of the tank, I have tied rags to a brush and to a flexible claw pick up tool.
This article (http://delorean6575revisited.blogspot.hu/2012/09/technical-procedure-1-cleaning-fuel.html), and this video (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3vCAG2IUb3E) are great information sources for this work.
33932339333393433935

MML

04-19-2015, 08:42 PM

Fitted PJ Grady shift boot and a new cigarette lighter socket. Disassembled the headlights to clean up some rust, and wire in new sockets for the bulbs.

http://i.imgur.com/eX5CInF.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/kp7EZxJ.jpg

skill

04-19-2015, 09:29 PM

Polished. Doing my best to keep her under 13K miles! It's tough - I just want to cruise her into the sunset!!!
http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33963&stc=1

added +3 miles;

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33964&stc=1

w/ my son Sal the millennial hipster;

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=33965&stc=1

Rich_NYS

04-19-2015, 09:34 PM

Lookin' good Brian, I see you found a pull-strap!

skill

04-19-2015, 09:43 PM

Lookin' good Brian, I see you found a pull-strap!

Thanks Rich! Yes, i found an original in good condition w/o cracks, chew marks and a shiny D ring. lol

vps3922

04-20-2015, 10:29 AM

Took 03922 to my friend Dave (sdg3205) to finally get my breaks rebuild. I already got the rebuild kits from Toby and Dave and I had earlier on decided to replace the over 30 year old master cylinder.

I noticed that my break warning light would not turn off when I released the parking break. I thought that the parking break is the only thing lighting up this warning light. Hell was I wrong.

Dave said that my break fluid might be low and YES it was. Not only did my breaking suck but the fluid leaked out of the master, all over the booster, frame and the last year painted tank closing plate. Acrylic and paint, including POR-15 was wilted off. Rust was shown underneath the acrylic. The booster looked bad.

Our initial plan was to get the calipers off, clean and bead blast them and replace the master cylinder. Well, it now turned into a frame cleaning, de-rusting and painting project, where we will also bleed the cooling system to drop the tank to get to the nifty parts of the frame where we still expect DOT4 to sit, which enables me to also clean the tank and install the DMCH fuel system (there is a bright side to it). We will also bead blast the booster and all calipers and repaint them with a clear coat (calipers with high temperature clear coat).

Oh, and we noticed that both rear calipers were totally seized. I was probably breaking with only the front calipers. We repeated the sentence that the seller told me when selling the car: "We have done all breaks." SURE! They did not even bleed them. They only replaced the break pads, that was their "doing the breaks".

Well, the car is off the road, for now, but we will do a lot of projects that were still on the list (de-rust and cover frame on the rusty areas, bead blast and paint calipers and booster, put new master break cylinder in and install DMCH fuel system). The car will be like new afterwards.

Kukem

04-20-2015, 01:05 PM

Found out this weekend that my thermotime switch is bad. Rigged up a momentary bypass switch after talking to Dave from DMCMW as a work around for the time being. Then discovered it was almost impossible to get the car over into reverse. Had to take the shifter apart to check the cross gate cable. It worked fine! Put it back together: No dice. Took it all apart again and tried it by adding piece by piece. Come to find out the shift boot bracket and leather are colliding with the shift lever. If you move the leather out of the way, it has just enough space to shift into reverse fine. Go figure. Next on the agenda are brakes, an oil change and the door strut and then a good cleaning.

DMC5180

04-20-2015, 03:05 PM

The side to side movement of the shifter is adjustable. You will need to adjust the clevis end of the cross gate cable to find the ideal position in the opening between Rev & 5th. Do not adjust the outer cable jacket nuts at transmission end as long as it is shifting smoothly.

novadmc

04-20-2015, 03:28 PM

received the major service kit and water pump assembly kit from DMCH today.

33979

wont lie, while i'm seasoned at working on my daily driver (Subaru), doing this more involved work on the DeLorean is feeling a bit daunting to me. Haven't pinned down when ill get to work (as the car is in working order now - this is preventative maintenance), but wondering/hoping i can convince any local, experienced owners to help with the promise of plenty of food & drink.

FABombjoy

04-20-2015, 07:57 PM

my daily driver (Subaru)
On the bright side, at least you aren't dealing with a timing-belt driven water pump :)

MML

04-22-2015, 05:17 PM

Cleaned and repainted the headlight brackets, and enlarged the hole for the rubber covers that go on the back.
Also got some original paperwork off ebay.

http://i.imgur.com/OKkETz5.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/Fu0Pkb3.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/29IXjzJ.jpg

DMC5180

04-23-2015, 07:44 PM

Hmm, I don't recall seeing rubber covers for the back of the buckets before. Are those aftermarket?

DMCMW Dave

04-23-2015, 07:53 PM

Hmm, I don't recall seeing rubber covers for the back of the buckets before. Are those aftermarket?

Probably the upgrade fixtures that use replaceable bulbs. I think Cibie made them but stopped.

DMC5180

04-23-2015, 07:53 PM

That would make sense.

chris williams

04-24-2015, 03:12 AM

Hmm, I don't recall seeing rubber covers for the back of the buckets before. Are those aftermarket
I think you will find they are attached to the back of the light unit, it's just such a good fit it looks like part of the bucket!
Chris

MML

04-24-2015, 07:32 AM

I think you will find they are attached to the back of the light unit, it's just such a good fit it looks like part of the bucket!
Chris

Yep Chris is spot on. I have the Hella units with replaceable bulbs. I had trouble with water getting into one so I ordered the rubber covers. I think they come as standard now though.
All credit to the guy that cut the brackets for doing such a nice accurate job!

edit: I just realised my initial post was ambiguously worded...

chris williams

04-24-2015, 08:23 AM

Moved the car out of the garage to find I had no clutch...mmmmmm pumped the pedal a dozen or so times and it came back. Wonder if the 3 yr old master and or slave is on it's way out? Bled it no air in system that I could find.
Chris

5875

04-24-2015, 09:55 AM

Did a few things last night:

- installed all new struts from PJ Grady (awesome door lift again)
- front grill anti-theft mod since it was very loose. I used this thread for guidance: http://http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5108-How-to-better-secure-your-front-grill&referrerid=128 (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?5108-How-to-better-secure-your-front-grill&referrerid=128)
- after burning thru 2 dust caps, 2 angle drives, lower cable and upper cable, installed a 3rd dust cap for the speedo, but this time I put JB Weld in the square housing to see if it solves the rounding-off issue that keeps coming back. I know the dust cap is the "fuse" in the system, but I've had it at this point and will try anything. If this doesn't work, I'll order a one piece cable and by-pass the Lamda counter. The counter and actual speedo seem fine (no grinding or resistance) so who the hell knows!

bfloyd

04-26-2015, 12:07 AM

Got my new water pump put in today...

http://i.imgur.com/fVqGWA2.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/qRFF2q4.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/APQrQTy.jpg

Domi

04-26-2015, 12:31 PM

Really nice job!

Jonathan

04-26-2015, 12:51 PM

Got my new water pump put in today...

http://i.imgur.com/fVqGWA2.jpg

Looks nice Barry.

Any chance you might be able to take a picture similar to the first one but showing a little further back to see where the block ends? My electrical connector is not connected to the thermistor and your photo is a really good one to show me where this stuff is, without being able to see it myself on my own car as is. I'm not convinced I can get my hand twisted around in there to clip it back on firmly, but I'd love to at least have a better visual of it. Thanks!

PJ Grady Inc.

04-26-2015, 05:24 PM

A few small issues Barry. Your upper bypass hose clamps are out of position. You will not be able to retighten them after installing the inlet manifold. The best position is the way the factory installed them with the worm screw facing the back of the car and positioned under the bypass hose for easy servicing w/all parts are assembled. The larger block pipe clamps are also better positioned to the L/H side of the hose as then one can also be retorqued if needed. If you aren't using silicone (can't tell for sure from the pics but likely not) for those block pipe hoses you also run the risk of a leak later on under the intake which is no fun doing twice just to tighten the clamps. Your vacuum switch isn't original either (NOS is green) so make sure the temp. rating and actuation is the same as stock or you risk driveability issues if it's not the correct part. Sorry for nitpicking but it could save you some trouble down the road.
Rob

http://i.imgur.com/fVqGWA2.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/qRFF2q4.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/APQrQTy.jpg[/QUOTE]

bfloyd

04-26-2015, 07:12 PM

Thanks for the tips and pointers Rob! Hose clamps are easily adjustable at this stage. You are correct on the vacuum switch, it is new - although I still have the green one that was on the car when I got it. When I ordered my water pump kit from John Hervey, for some reason he included a vacuum switch in the kit, so I figured why not go ahead and replace it while I'm there.

bfloyd

04-26-2015, 07:26 PM

Jonathan - is this the view you're looking for?
http://i.imgur.com/GuQ7Qdk.jpg

dustybarn

04-26-2015, 11:38 PM

Finished installing my new radiator and fans, then started the car for the first time since the fall!

Jonathan

04-27-2015, 06:49 AM

Jonathan - is this the view you're looking for?
http://i.imgur.com/GuQ7Qdk.jpg

That's perfect Barry, thanks. Seeing where it is in proximity to the distributor helps a lot. Cheers.

novadmc

04-29-2015, 09:07 AM

Got my new water pump put in today...

nice clean job!

man this is great work and exactly what I plan to be doing later this spring. I've got my new water pump kit and associated parts sitting here, i'm just too nervous to take the dive in and start ripping the intake manifold off by myself.

DrJeff

04-30-2015, 11:45 AM

Farrar

04-30-2015, 12:03 PM

Installed the MaxJax at the new house.

Very cool! Hard to tell from the photos -- about how much space do you have under the lift?

Chris 16409

04-30-2015, 12:29 PM

DrJeff

04-30-2015, 12:35 PM

Very cool! Hard to tell from the photos -- about how much space do you have under the lift?

44 in from the ground to the underside of the car. You can set it at 24in which works better with a creeper. At 44in being seated or kneeling works. There are adapters for lifting a truck that give an extra 3in, but I haven't tried them on the car yet - the adapter plus the arm/pad would need to fit under the car while its on the ground.

Farrar

04-30-2015, 12:39 PM

44 in from the ground to the underside of the car.

Thanks! Sounds good! I was thinking of getting one of these (once I have a garage of my own). A rolling chair would be perfect at that height. :)

Mark D

04-30-2015, 03:16 PM

I installed some new window and defrost switches. Yes, they are slimmer, but have a much better "click" then my old ones. Plus I got them for a great deal. I can always go back to stock if I want to later.

34145

34147

I hade to modify the base of the switch to accommodate the DMC plug.

34146

I kinda like these slim switches...what's the story with those? Are they a crossover part number or something that is close? The curved shape of the switch itself looks to be right on with the only difference being the width.

bfloyd

04-30-2015, 03:37 PM

Got the top of the engine buttoned back up last night. Also reworked the hose clamps on the water pump to get the clearance for the intake manifold. Next up is the coolant lines, new radiator and pressure testing.

http://i.imgur.com/sFX7VFB.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/0mgzB2w.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/TdXdLxg.jpg

Domi

04-30-2015, 03:55 PM

Wow, amazing!
I wish my engine as beautiful as yours :)

skill

04-30-2015, 04:43 PM

I'd eat off the VOD! Nice pics!

Jonathan

04-30-2015, 04:50 PM

Installed the MaxJax at the new house. I took - whatever precautions were necessary to prevent a terrible disaster - and it worked out fine. I can't wait to get started working on the backlog of projects.

34144

Beauty install Jeff. Looks bulletproof to me!

DMC-81

04-30-2015, 05:40 PM

DMC-81

04-30-2015, 06:02 PM

Got the top of the engine buttoned back up last night. Also reworked the hose clamps on the water pump to get the clearance for the intake manifold. Next up is the coolant lines, new radiator and pressure testing.

Very nice work! I'm doing exactly the same thing on my car.

Chris 16409

04-30-2015, 08:17 PM

I kinda like these slim switches...what's the story with those? Are they a crossover part number or something that is close? The curved shape of the switch itself looks to be right on with the only difference being the width.

Yes the curve is spot on, they are just not as wide. They are a Renault window switch. I got them from a seller in France. The window switches were about $30 with shipping for the pair. They are Renault # 7700705925.

The defrost switch is also a Renault part. It's # 7701348546. When I got it, I was surprised to see it was actually a Torrix brand part.

howlingwind13

04-30-2015, 08:41 PM

New Headliners both: old passenger side was sagging bad...didn't bother me I don't sit there lol...wife couldn't stand it...then this spring my side sagged
New hood struts : needed new since I bought it 12 years ago...bout time
New Led door lights
Got the door lights working (thanks to this forum and the helpful people)
My radio came in for the bttf conversion so I mounted that and the heatsink on top and added the wiring.
small stuff but I'm not so good when it comes to cars, so to do this all in an hour...for me...pretty darn fantastic and I didn't use any swear words.:tongue_stick:

Saturday all new tires...

mike

Jonathan

05-01-2015, 01:58 PM

I went and got gas.

Other than that, tried to read and reply to some closed threads.

~~~

I agree with you completely Bob. And I agreed with what Shep said as well in that thread.

I also think it's baloney that the thread gets locked and the instigator doesn't get removed. If indeed he adds value in other threads or topics, then great, continue to do that. But stirring up a bunch of nonsense in someone else's thread trumps any good he does elsewhere.

If any of us messed up previously in a different thread, topic, product or opinion, ok, sure chastise that person in that place if needed. We all have our off days. But if someone tries again (like your thread was doing, Bob), we can't as a group give the guy a hard time based on what isn't written there and is only based on something elsewhere in another time or place.

If something that happened in the past offends any of us so bad that you're still irked by it, then don't contribute to the new topic. Everyone gets the right to do that. But we don't have the right to instigate out of the blue and troll like this MrNut guy did. If the people running this forum want to keep it useful here, then fix your approach on that. Issue a warning if you need to, but then that's it. Bye bye. You were warned.

~~~

Soundkiller, this has nothing to do with "not everyone liking Bob" and it isn't about keeping it open to the public or public call-outs. It is unfair to the guy and your approach needs to change. You want to help keep it fair to Bob or the others, delete the sort of posts that come from the trolls. You don't want to have to babysit threads so much, then warn the instigators to stop and then kick them out. Please fix this or the forum will lose more than just the guys who are a PITA. Thank you.

Farrar

05-01-2015, 11:45 PM

I made sure it was still in the garage.

DMC-81

05-02-2015, 10:59 AM

I torqued the hose clamps on the new water pump and coolant pipe, and next is replacing the slave cylinder and SS braided clutch hose while I have easy access. I guess I got carried away cleaning and polishing the thermotime switch....

Question: My old slave cylinder still worked, so I want to rebuild it as a spare. Does anyone know the manufacturer and part number for a good quality rebuild kit? Is it Bendix?

Thanks.

34204

Farrar

05-02-2015, 05:30 PM

Took the remaining header off -- yay!

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34208&stc=1

Poured this out of the oil filter -- boo!

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34209&stc=1

novadmc

05-02-2015, 09:57 PM

changed oil (0 signs of coolant so yay!)
changed air filter
took off A/C belt and AC idler pulleys. ordered new pulleys (already have new pulley bearings but the pulleys need replacing too).
so no AC for a few days while driving, but its cool enough around here still that wont be a problem.

still cant figure out my cold start squeal noise. only lasts for ~2-3 seconds right at start up when cold. thought it might be one of the belts or the worn out pulley bearing but after today, that doesn't seem to be the case.

new water pump is still sitting on the shelf, taunting me

beernpizzalover

05-02-2015, 10:48 PM

I put some newly-purchased stainless steel letters on my rear bumper. And then I took my car out for a ride on a beautiful weekend day!

bfloyd

05-03-2015, 01:48 AM

Took it out of the garage for the first time since November. Washed it up and gave it a Barkeepers Friend shine today.

http://i.imgur.com/RwcJIL9.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/t9yPUP6.jpg

novadmc

05-03-2015, 11:43 AM

think i found the cold squeal at 10:30 last night (cause why not work on the car right before going to bed). alternator belt had over 1" of deflection. adjusted the alternator to tighten that up (which is an unnecessary pain in the ass if you ask me with the stock adjuster bracket, thanks Volvo).
When i fired up the car this morning to go to the local Cars & Coffee meet, it fired up with no squeal. hopefully that was it and the noise is no more going forward.

Gary

05-03-2015, 12:29 PM

I pulled my old accumulator out last night and decided to cut it open to see what was inside.

34214

I took a hacksaw to it and carefully pried open the case while it was clamped to my vise. Eventually the spring let go and shot out.

Farrar

05-03-2015, 05:14 PM

Today, I gave up on trying to repair the engine, and started looking for a replacement.

DMC-81

05-03-2015, 06:18 PM

Today I replaced the stock nylon clutch line with DMC's SS braided replacement.

novadmc

05-04-2015, 01:37 PM

installed DMCH's cold air "performance" intake during my lunch hour (the beauty of working from home). tested the inlet valve with my heat gun. it does work and open the valve in it, but holy crap did it need to get hot before it started letting "cool" air in via the pontoon. cant wait to take the car out for a spin now to see if i notice any difference.
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34222

Chris 16409

05-05-2015, 07:58 PM

Rich_NYS

05-05-2015, 10:36 PM

Sent 10372 off to it's new owner on Friday and got 4728 in my garage on Saturday to begin disassembling stuff.

Tonite I removed both seats, passenger side valve cover and driver side front caliper.

Farrar

05-05-2015, 11:52 PM

I poured water into the intake valley so that it was filled above the level of the little casting fins -- or whatever they're called.

krs09

05-06-2015, 05:54 PM

Replaced my front springs with with DPI lowering springs, after a few days its really starting to settle and looks WAY better and feels better too. While I was in there I replaced the old front control arm bushings (lower) and found out my front driver side are was badly bent so no point to replace the bushing but the other side was no problem (used a large socket to push the old one out).. So now im looking for a replacement arm and boy are they expensive, I might have to find a decent used one or DPI has nice refurb arms...UGH.. I did do the safety recall for the sway bar brackets .. nice. All in a days work.

Rich_NYS

05-06-2015, 10:07 PM

-Strained my brain trying to think of what I'm forgetting to add to my parts order.

-Vacuumed the carpets in preparation for their removal this weekend.

-Paced around the car a few times to build a positive-energy field.

andy blackmon

05-06-2015, 10:13 PM

Last week I began the chore of replacing my head liner. First thing I touched went south, the first screw on visor broke off. Upon removing both visors and the overhead light I was able to see the 4 small plates that holds the visors on. They were eaten up with rust. I ordered a sun visor repair kit from DPI and replaced the rusted plates with new stainless plates. The head liner was easy thanks to a very detailed write up from our late departed friend Warren, even in death he is still helping the Delorean family. Head liner easy, sunvisor was a pia. Andy Blackmon 03513

Alan

05-06-2015, 11:44 PM

I found mine. I put a deposit down on 1121 at Midwest today. I feel as though I've taken the first concrete step towards fulfilling a longtime dream.

Rich_NYS

05-07-2015, 08:43 AM

I found mine. I put a deposit down on 1121 at Midwest today. I feel as though I've taken the first concrete step towards fulfilling a longtime dream.

Awesome....congratulations!

Chris Burns

05-07-2015, 09:47 AM

I found mine. I put a deposit down on 1121 at Midwest today. I feel as though I've taken the first concrete step towards fulfilling a longtime dream.

Congrats!

Thats a nice early DMC!!

DavidProehl

05-07-2015, 09:54 AM

I found mine. I put a deposit down on 1121 at Midwest today. I feel as though I've taken the first concrete step towards fulfilling a longtime dream.

Wonderful! You will be happy you took the time to find the right one rather than just jumping on the first you saw. I'll be moving back to Maple Grove in November, looking forward to seeing this car!

Farrar

05-07-2015, 01:41 PM

-Paced around the car a few times to build a positive-energy field.

Did you try rubbing a balloon on it to see if it would stick? ;D

vps3922

05-07-2015, 02:29 PM

Brought 3922 back home on Wednesday. Worked with Dave (sdg3205) on my car to redo the breaks (rebuild) and we noticed that the master leaked over the frame. So we dropped the tank.

In the end we completed the following (Dave doing a lot of that)
- cleaned frame and repainted first with POR-15 and then colormatch
- cleaned tank and replaced fuel pump with DMCH fuel pump system
- build water redirection shield so water from windshield is not poured onto the new pump when it is raining (remember: I am in the Pacific NorthWest)
- cleaned and painted LCAs with POR-15
- bead blasted rusted sway bar and painted it
- installed calliper rebuild kits and hooked system back up
- replaced master cylinder
- bead blasted break booster and painted it
- painted frunk with SEM black

Car drives and breaks great! Finally I can see how much gas I have in my tank. Whoa! :thumbup:

Farrar

05-07-2015, 08:44 PM

Car drives and breaks great!

Sorry to hear that. I have a broken DeLorean, too.

Rich_NYS

05-07-2015, 09:54 PM

did you try rubbing a balloon on it to see if it would stick? ;d

sorry to hear that. I have a broken delorean, too.

lmao..!

Rich_NYS

05-07-2015, 11:32 PM

Finished removing, and began cleaning the headliners.

Removed the closing plate for cleaning & POR-15. I'm really missing 10372 tonight, the closing plate was nice & clean....not like this one:

34261 34262

sdg3205

05-07-2015, 11:47 PM

Volker (vps3922) and I were cruising in 3205 after 6 months of storage and we could smell burning brakes.

The front left rim was hot to the touch. Turns out the caliper was frozen up even after flushing the system before winter hibernation.

One piston came out fairly easily. The other.... not so much. Had to put it in a vice and use a vice grips and a rubber mallet for a few hours until I got it out.

New pistons, rebuild kit and braided soft lines ordered.

Put a pressure tester on the cooling system and found a leak in the VOD. This after a cooling flush and test in the fall too. Looks like I have a long weekend in front of me. Goes to show even with regular maintenance these cars still need tlc.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/07/abb343232839757c3800d166e1d95634.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/07/8415339ac2892c144a27988e0ada898d.jpghttp://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/07/e7b83e6ef56b6a636cf7e1fbee120bdf.jpg

Tillsy

05-08-2015, 02:31 AM

One piston came out fairly easily. The other.... not so much. Had to put it in a vice and use a vice grips and a rubber mallet for a few hours until I got it out.

When I rebuilt mine I had a couple that were stuck and refused to come out.

I inserted two screw drivers, one either side, into the piston's lip and then leveraged them out. They were mighty tough, but they did very slowly slide out and undamaged.

bigmac

05-08-2015, 11:03 PM

3428734288342893429034291342923429334294

skill

05-09-2015, 04:16 PM

I flocked my DeLorean glove box perimeter and created a How to Guide (http://dmctalk.org/showthread.php?11859-Flock-a-DeLorean!-(Glovebox)&p=172473#post172473) if it's a To-Do for you :)

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34325&stc=1

Domi

05-09-2015, 04:36 PM

Very good job :thumbup2:

Farrar

05-09-2015, 06:46 PM

Made some exhaust progress -- the stainless steel flanges I bought needed to have the bolt holes enlarged, so I enlarged them with a Dremel and a tile-cutting bit.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34326&stc=1

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34327&stc=1

While I was under the car, I noticed a leak. Looks like part of the transmission fluid cooling system.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34328&stc=1

Farrar

05-09-2015, 09:27 PM

Another leak: the oil dipstick.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34354&stc=1

But I made some progress, anyway.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34355&stc=1http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34356&stc=1

dustybarn

05-09-2015, 11:21 PM

I finally had time today to put the wheels back on, fix the horn circuit, and go for a drive for the first time this year! :cheers:

Farrar

05-10-2015, 06:14 PM

Installed new exhaust flanges. Passenger side shown. The oil drip you see is just there because I hadn't wiped everything down yet -- I used some oil to help the new nuts go on the old threads.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34361&stc=1

jwrayth

05-11-2015, 04:28 AM

http://i.imgur.com/V3tpLNL.jpg

After a bit of a crash-course I finally welded up my LCAs. 3 more weeks to get the car ready for MOT!

vps3922

05-11-2015, 09:13 AM

While I was under the car, I noticed a leak. Looks like part of the transmission fluid cooling system.

http://dmctalk.org/attachment.php?attachmentid=34328&stc=1

Yep, had the same happening to me. Initial attempt to fix is adding another hose clamp. That might stop it. However, not in my case. I got the upper coolant hose replaced by Jon from DMCNW and a few months later the lower one leaked. These things are brittle sometimes. I got the lower one replaced as well and no leaks since.

Farrar

05-11-2015, 02:40 PM

I got the upper coolant hose replaced by Jon from DMCNW and a few months later the lower one leaked. These things are brittle sometimes. I got the lower one replaced as well and no leaks since.

I'll be sure to replace them both at the same time. Thanks! :)

John U

05-13-2015, 02:40 PM

I finished renovating her bedroom!

vps3922

05-13-2015, 02:47 PM

I finished renovating her bedroom!

Very pretty. But isn't she a bit intimidated by the Porsche flag in the corner? Or is this a trophy for when she blew past one? :biggrin:

John U

05-13-2015, 03:02 PM

Very pretty. But isn't she a bit intimidated by the Porsche flag in the corner? Or is this a trophy for when she blew past one? :biggrin:

The flag is for her sister, who sadly doesn't fit in the garage :(

Domi

05-13-2015, 03:17 PM

Very nice place, you have a lot of room to work on the car :aniclap:

chris williams

05-13-2015, 03:31 PM

Refurbed rear springs/cups/mounts, fitted NOS shocks, replaced TAB's as one had stripped it's thread.
Chris

John U

05-13-2015, 03:33 PM

Very nice place, you have a lot of room to work on the car :aniclap:

Thanks. A three car garage would be better, but the price for a house like that around here is crazy!!!

vps3922

05-14-2015, 09:07 AM

The flag is for her sister, who sadly doesn't fit in the garage :(

:hysterical: lol! The Porsche needs to sleep outside! :dork:

vps3922

05-14-2015, 09:10 AM

Put new labels into the recently painted frunk and cleaned the car for the All British Field Meet (ABFM) in Van Dusen Botanical Gardens, Vancouver, BC on Saturday. Looking forward to a great show again.

And I also signed up for the convoy drive to Whistler with all those nicely restored British cars on Sunday. I will try to keep the shiny side up (TM by Toby Peterson, DMC NW).

bfloyd

05-14-2015, 09:24 AM

Slowly putting all the pieces back together. This week we've got all of the rest of the rubber hoses put back in, pulled the alternator and got it cleaned up and painted, and installed my new alternator bracket last night.

http://i.imgur.com/XDjV29G.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/DC8R7LS.jpg

http://i.imgur.com/hoy4hZ9.jpg

This weekend I'm going to attempt to get the new radiator installed.

Ryan S.

05-14-2015, 10:29 AM

The flag is for her sister, who sadly doesn't fit in the garage :(

Love that 928. What year is it? Is it difficult/expensive to maintain or restore? I guess compare to D.

John U

05-14-2015, 02:30 PM

Love that 928. What year is it? Is it difficult/expensive to maintain or restore? I guess compare to D.

The porsche is a 1987. I absolutely love the car! Must have been an amazing ride in the '80s with a 320hp V8!
The Delorean is definitely easier to work on. The 928 has some pretty complicated systems in comparison, and Porsche parts cost waaaay more! In the Porsche world, the 928 is the red-headed step child. The air cooled 911s have seen a huge price increase lately while the 928 is only slowly climbing. 928 is a faster and better handling car than 911s of the same era...many consider the 928 a bargain! I am on the hunt for another one before the prices climb any higher.

DMC-81

05-14-2015, 07:54 PM

I put my refurbed idler pulley assembly and a new alternator on the car. The pulley assembly needed patience and a lot of referencing the manual and pictures, but I got it done. Next is slave cylinder install and valve adjustment.

34463

34462

DMC5180

05-15-2015, 09:49 PM

.

34463

What is the L shaped piece sticking out of the A/C compressor bracket?

Farrar

05-16-2015, 12:08 AM

Sacrilege: I laid some parts boxes out on the hood.

Kukem

05-16-2015, 04:15 PM

Took her for a 130 mile trip today. It worked perfectly. Lots of bug guts and fingerprints though...:( Oh well.

Stainless

05-16-2015, 04:59 PM

I took my wife for a drive in the DeLorean for the first time in nearly two years. We had our first baby in 2013, and she hadn't ridden in it since. Besides my young son, I hadn't driven in it with a passenger that whole time. It was fun to have someone with me to point out all the people staring and pointing at the car as we like to make fun or joke about some reactions we get. Good times.

novadmc

05-16-2015, 05:43 PM

DMC-81

05-16-2015, 06:55 PM

What is the L shaped piece sticking out of the A/C compressor bracket?

Hi Dennis,

That's a temporary fastener (some type of Allen key) to hold the valve covers and compressor in place as I still need to do the valve adjustment. Once I finish that task I'll permanently adjust and torque them.

Cheers,
Dana

DMC-81

05-16-2015, 07:13 PM

34496

Intake manifold off. now taking off the dying water pump. this is gonna get a whole lot messier before it gets cleaner. VOD is dry (well until the pump comes off :) ) but man is it filled with dirt and crap.

Looks very good! At this stage, I found that it was also a good time to clean the carbon deposits out of the intake manifold and the intake ports. I used carburetor cleaner on a cotton shop towel which worked wonders. I used a wooden dowel to get the cloth into the areas that were hard to reach.

Good luck with your swap.

novadmc

05-16-2015, 07:23 PM

Looks very good! At this stage, I found that it was also a good time to clean the carbon deposits out of the intake manifold and the intake ports. I used carburetor cleaner on a cotton shop towel which worked wonders. I used a wooden dowel to get the cloth into the areas that were hard to reach.

Good luck with your swap.

Thanks for the tip for cleaning the carbon! Not sure if I'll POR15 it or not. It might be painted already. Can't tell till I get the grime off

Just finished ripping out the water pump and y pipe with no broken bolts.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/16/ddb11d27ce0cb4c5bb058d2d4b0a7608.jpg

My plan is to clean the valley, then I want to paint the fiberglass around the engine with SEM Trim black. And I also want to adjust my valves. Lots to do still but at least I've come this far. Then the service kit (plugs, wires, distributor etc)

At this point I'm just worried about fuel or coolant leaks once I eventually button everything back up

novadmc

05-16-2015, 09:12 PM

Pump's out and disassembled so i can reuse the T-stat cover and rear pump cover. both of which 1st need a good scrubbing/cleaning.

34499 34500 34501 34502

Definitely think the pump's seen better days.

MTDMC

05-16-2015, 09:23 PM

My car was shown on the local news in Grand Rapids, MI today. One of the meteorologists and her boyfriend are huge Back to the Future fans and they loved seeing the car. I also gave them a ride in the car. It's not the first time my car has been a local celebrity being on tv.

Farrar

05-18-2015, 11:40 AM

Continued working on the "broke college student" exhaust yesterday. Mocked up where and how to mount the tailpipe hangers. OK so far, but the bend behind the exhaust manifolds is not to my liking. A local owner has some old headers that I may try to see if the point of exit is better.

novadmc

05-18-2015, 04:58 PM

lunchtime = new spark plugs, plug wires, distributor cap & rotor.

plugs looked OK. bit of oil on the threads though.
34536

papanoel

05-18-2015, 05:18 PM

Installed new combo fuel pump/sender unit from DMCH ordered from DMCMW.

Took a while but it wasn't difficult just some rookie mistakes where we had to undo a lot of work when we were almost done.

Going to sell my old fuel sender, pump, and baffle which was overheating in warm weather due to a kinked/collapsed pickup hose. other than that works fine.

Kukem

05-18-2015, 05:50 PM

Had a few minutes to be out in the garage and installed a new Door Strut to fix the droopy driver door. All better now!

berickson926

05-19-2015, 09:21 PM

Removed the intake manifold to address on-going cooling system issues.

Broke a y-pipe bolt, decided to let the pros down at DMCCA help me repair that and re-seat the y-pipe/heater pipe.

Once I had the car towed back from the shop, I cleaned up the mess that was in the valley. Then I replaced the water pump and hoses, distributor cap, wires and plugs, WUR, various vacuum lines.

Managed to reinstall everything and not have the car explode on me!

Terrible idle hunting - gone. Slightly high idle when warm is still there (goes from 750 cold to ~900RPM or so when warm). Cooling system seems stable so far, but probably need more time to evaluate.

Exciting!

bfloyd

05-20-2015, 04:55 PM

Got the new radiator mated up with the A/C condenser and got them remounted up in the front of the car. My 15 year old son and I finished cranking down the last bolt and my son says... "Dad, how are we supposed to put the fans back on with it already up in there?":hmm:

DavidProehl

05-20-2015, 05:53 PM

"Dad, how are we supposed to put the fans back on with it already up in there?":hmm:

It happens to us all. Not unlike the time I removed, dyed, and re-installed all of my interior except for the binnacle only to realize that I didn't seat the dash properly. I rarely scream out of frustration, but I did then. That was 4 hours wasted.

DMCMW Dave

05-20-2015, 06:45 PM

novadmc

05-20-2015, 07:13 PM

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/20/585da2b19f14a2f534798e8a259c5223.jpg
Painted the bay as it was very faded.

Man I hope I can put this mess beck together when I'm all done.

vps3922

05-21-2015, 05:31 PM

Painted the bay as it was very faded.

I so wanna do that! :worship:

SEM Black?

bfloyd

05-21-2015, 10:04 PM

Looks like we're at about the same stage....
http://i.imgur.com/G18P7gg.jpg

Alan

05-21-2015, 11:14 PM

Got more pictures for now. 1121 is still in Midwest's capable hands. Time until the open house goes SLOWLY.

http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/21/69d03ba2d14a1ba21be4d83f9946d3ab.jpg
http://images.tapatalk-cdn.com/15/05/21/aa087dc06865669ca77e6ddf8c881d78.jpg

novadmc

05-21-2015, 11:34 PM

today i put the water pump back in and installed the wings-b-cool bleeder kit and radiator bleeder kit:

34565

I then moved on to installing the DPNW radiator fans.

what a pain in the ass. took forever to get the shroud out. i dont think my radiator sits right as little notches were cut out of the shroud it appears so that it fits in front of the frame extension. you can see the cutouts here:
34566

after i got the fans installed and the shroud remounted, i noticed that the right fan seems to stick a bit and make a rubbing sound about once every rotation. it doesnt appear to be a fin rubbing against the shroud. didnt notice it when i installed the fans. hope one isnt bad cause i really dont want to do this whole job again.

lastly now i have an issue re-installing the sway bar. its like it's geometry changed after taking it off to install the fans. after i get it seated in the LCAs, when i jack it up to mount its brackets to the frames, it looks like its about 1/2" too far forward, and now rubs into the rear housing of the radiator shroud, compresing the shroud and causing the fans to be unable to freely spin.

Being that off, i cant get the rear bolts that go into the frame to thread on since they're not lined up. any ideas/tips? I was hoping to have the car off the ramps tonight but looks like that's not going to happen now. :(

novadmc

05-21-2015, 11:50 PM

ok forget the swaybar issue. i got mad and in one last attempt. lowered the car off the ramps. once it was on the ground, swaybar geometry was magically fixed. ugh. :)

now here's hoping all that jostling of the radiator didn't create any leaks. guess we'll find out once i pressure test it sometime in the next week.

DMC5180

05-22-2015, 12:25 AM

Alan

05-22-2015, 12:39 AM

Yes, the Eibach lowering kit will be installed shortly. She reminds me a bit of a 4x4 in these pictures. ;)

DMC5180

05-22-2015, 12:46 AM

Yup, she looks ready for a Baja rally. I think so many cars have now been lowered now that when I see one that isn't it really looks odd.

bfloyd

05-26-2015, 10:41 AM

http://i.imgur.com/Khpgbyj.jpg
Finally got the cooling system completed, filled and pressure tested. Held at 15 psi for almost 2 hours. New vacuum lines went in last night, as did the new spark plugs, ignition wires, and manifold gaskets. My new DPI fuel lines came in on Friday, so I'm hoping to be able to fire the engine for the first time this coming weekend.

novadmc

05-26-2015, 08:39 PM

Finally got the cooling system completed, filled and pressure tested. Held at 15 psi for almost 2 hours. New vacuum lines went in last night, as did the new spark plugs, ignition wires, and manifold gaskets. My new DPI fuel lines came in on Friday, so I'm hoping to be able to fire the engine for the first time this coming weekend.

nice; you're ahead of me now. havent had a chance to do anything to it since thursday. hopefully everything goes smoothly for you!

Farrar

05-27-2015, 11:24 AM

This morning I stole a jumper wire out of the coin tray to put in my other car as insurance...

novadmc

05-28-2015, 10:20 AM

pressure tested cooling system last night. it went from 15psi to just under 14psi over the course of 15 mins (tested with Mityvac MV4560). no leaks/drips anywhere though. valley is dry, radiator is dry. no hissing sounds anywhere. unless someone thinks this will bite me in the rear, im calling it a success and moving onto (hopefully) valve adjustments and clutch bleeding this weekend.

i had forgotten to transfer over the short, 19mm plug bolt that sits on the front of the water pump, just below the thermostat housing from the old pump (the one htat has no part number on store.delorean.com's site) so that was a fun little mess when filling up the system at first....

bfloyd

05-28-2015, 10:47 AM

Getting closer. Got the rest of the new silicone vacuum lines put in last night, the intake manifold re-installed, the injectors installed, air metering assembly and fuel distributor back in place, and my new DPI fuel lines put in. Got stumped on the return line because the original fittings that were on the car didn't mate up to the new return line. Shot an email off to Josh last night about 10:30 p.m. hoping he'd answer sometime today. I got a reply from him within a matter of minutes. I was impressed. Still have some miscellaneous wires, clamps,the idle speed motor, and the throttle assembly left to go in the engine bay, but the big stuff is done.

Only things left are the fuel filter, fuel feed line, accumulator, and the new DMCH fuel pump.

http://i.imgur.com/vACo0Xc.jpg